I have an LS600hl (2008) that has behaved spectacularly well, except until recently when it started to deplete the key fob battery fast! I resorted to replacing the batteries once a week (yes it was that bad). that was up until today when the car refused to start completely. Everything in it is dead, including the horns.
View 3 Replies2008 LS600hl with 30K miles, when de-accelerate/brake I hear like jet engine slowing down sound, I think coming from the CVT/Electric motor area.
View 14 RepliesHas any ls600 owner noticed a small vibration/shudder when they decelerate (without braking) on the highway ? It may be only a hybrid issue even during normal operation as the electric engine are recharging the battery.
View 14 RepliesOn occasion, I have had rattle noise coming from above the radio and behind the nav screen.
View 11 Replies45 days into the ownership of 600 and never seen the hybrid battery fully charge. The top bar never turned blue, is this normal?
View 14 RepliesWe own a 2008 LS600Hl and love it. I just got the car back from a minor bumper fix from the body shop last week, and my daughter showed me that the armrest controls in the back are dark. Think it could be a fuse, relay or the genius at the body shop had to disconnect something and did not connect something back. If it is simple, I'd rather take care of it, than go back to him again.
View 6 RepliesI'm beginning to notice a high pitched whine when I first start up my 2008 LS600hL and turn the wheel slightly (like backing out of my garage). It almost sounds like the beginning of a power steering pump problem, but I think our power steering systems on the LS are electric.
Experiencing a slight whine/growling sound when the car is still cold and the wheel is turned? Maybe the sound has been there all along and I'm just now noticing it.
I did a search on this topic and came up empty. My car is still covered under a CPO warranty, so I'm not too concerned, but was wanting to get opinions from the forum on possible causes (or if this sound is a normal part of the electric power steering we have).
08 LS600hL. The cigarette/power outlet in center console shorts out instantly. I have changed the fuse a couple times. Tested several different plugs. The ashtray and rear console power outlets both work perfectly. Nothing else seems to have any issues, radio, windows, climate, etc.
View 4 Replies30 minute drive of this beeping was driving me crazy I tried turning the car on and off a few times and it still does the same thing
View 9 RepliesIn the process of purchasing 2008 600hl. Wondering if any of the 600 owners can tell me if you experience a light vibration in U-turns, mainly coming from the back? I just called the servicing dealer and the SA told me that he felt the same thing when he moved a 600 for a customer making sharp turns, explaining that this is normal from the electric motors. Is this true???
View 1 RepliesWe have a 2007 Prius with 70,000 miles on it. Twice now, the car has refused to start. Yesterday we tried to jump start it, got nothing. We went shopping with the other vehicle, came home, and then it started when my husband unlocked the car with the remote. It happened again today. I always use the smart key, it wouldn't start. Dead! My husband took me to work, then came home, unlocked it with the remote and it started again. What's up with that??? We just had it serviced a few weeks ago.
View 19 RepliesSeveral tries at power button failed. Icon on dashboard (small car image) flashing whether nor not I was in the car. Lights worked and emergency flashers worked. After many tries, called AAA. The AAA driver got in the car and it started right up and has worked ever since. Called dealer. Never heard of such a thing. What happened.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2009 that seems to have issues in the lower gears, I think that I have a transmission issue.
When I'm coming to a stop, I feel the transmission downshifting from about gear 3. It's not wildly jerky or abrasive, but it's not smooth either (or I wouldn't feel it). When it downshifts, after it engages (or torques down for lack of a better term) it feels as if it releases a bit, which makes me have to compensate with harder braking (again, not saying I am slamming on the brakes, but I have to brake harder so it doesn't feel like I am now going to coast into the car in front of me). It doesn't feel like the transmission is going to take off on its own, but it definitely feels like it has a certain threshold it wants to stay above.
In the loaner I have (RX), when coming to a stop the best way I can describe it is it feels like the transmission has completely disengaged and I feel NO transmission downshifting at all. The only way I get this type of braking in my LS is if I throw it into Neutral and take the transmission out of the loop. On the way to the dealership this morning to drop it off for other issues, I was at a stop light and went to accelerate and it felt as if it skipped a gear because I was stalled for a second (acceleration wise, not that the engine turned off) before it took off as it should. Also my acceleration seems to be a little hesitant when starting off .
"VSC" warning light...my car is completely dead, with warning light "VSC". Other than what the acronym Vehicle Stability Control stands for, I don't know what the issue is or what VSC is relating to. I can't get my car started to take it in for diagnostic testing.
The car is 2008 Lexus IS 250.
My 2007 Lexus ls460L is completely nonresponsive to anything. The key won't work and it won't lock on unlock from inside the car either. How would I go about resetting the engine immobilizer?
View 6 RepliesFriday of last week my wife's Corolla refused to start. It cranked strongly but refused to catch. Fearing the worst my mechanic father-in-law assumed the timing belt had gone and we spent the weekend replacing that. The tensioner bearing had seized leaving the timing belt glazed but intact and, as far as we could tell, the timing was still correct. We replaced the belt and closed her back. Tired turning it over, nothing. Father-in-law noticed he didn't hear the fuel pump turn on when the key was placed in the ON position so he replaced that and the fuel filter. Turns out that the fuel pump only comes on when it's cranking? Who knew? We didn't. So that's been replaced.
At this point we have it towed to the shop where my father-in-law works(After this point all my information is second hand). We were going to let Big Al, their resident diagnostician, hook up his magic boxes and tell us what's wrong. Big Al suggests it's the distributor so that's changed but it still doesn't run. Big Al suggests that we set the timing incorrectly. That is torn apart again and, remember this is second hand information, "it was right but it was wrong". Whatever, they get it back together and it cranks and runs! Hooray!...but not so fast.
Next morning father-in-law arrives at work and gets bubkis. Cranks, sounds like it wants to start but won't. Somehow Big Al determines it's the PCM and that the car is getting "too much of a fuel pulse from the injectors" I ask if they are able to pull any codes from the computer and I'm told that they can't get any codes from ODBII scanner because it can't communicate with the car's computer. Also it's found that the catalytic converter is completely shot.
I have a 96 Buick regal v6 3.8L. It ran good. Started from last winter, it started to act up. In the morning, 98% OF the first attempt to start the car failed: it started but died in a few seconds, but the 2nd attempt always got it start. One month ago, I drove it for 1.5 hours, and parked there for 15 minutes, could not get it started, opened up the hood, waited for 15 minutes, it started. Then I drove it to a auto shop, they replaced the starter. One five days later, I could not started it again after 1.3 hour driving and parked for 20 minutes. Wait for 15 minutes, it started again. The odd is that when it refused to start, the radiator gap is very hard (but not over heated yet), after started it and drove for 30 minutes or so, I feel the gap is cooler than when it would not start.
I drove it back to the shop, they could not any problem. Drove it back. three day later, it stalled when driving. I didn't realize the stall until I need to turn: lost steering and brake power, then notice that the whole dash board doesn't have any light on. Since the car shut it off only after half mile driving, it doesn't looks like heat related (It was on the mountain, it was about 70 F). Then I sent the car to a different shop.
At the shop, they took off the ignition model and tested it good, and put it back. Since then, they started the car several times per day. Finally, on one day, the car shut itself off after running for 2 hours, and they could not start it. However, they checked and didn't find any code was set (they said because service engine light was not on). The shop have been trying to start the car several times per day for 10 days they didn't have another failure. I am not sure what to do with the car. I read posts here, and have the shop checked short circuit, ground fault, fuel wiring harness, catalytic converter, they didn't find anything, and they said that fuel pump seems ok.
I plan to replace crank sensor, fuel filter, and fuel regulator sensor and use the car for work commute (2 miles). what should be done on the car (since it is old car with 120K on it, I don't want to spend more than $500 dollar on it unless I am sure the problem can be fixed).
My 2003 Taurus sometimes refuses to start. There's no real pattern: sometimes it's after the car has run for a while and other times not. Sometimes the starter clicks, other times the engine lights come on with no sound at all from starter/engine. Thing is, the car always ends up starting if I let it sit long enough (15 minutes--several hours). I've read around on the internet and realize this seems to be a problem experienced by many owners. I've changed the battery, checked all the connections, cleaned the starter connections and the Mass Air Flow Sensor. If the starter was bad, it seems like it wouldn't start at all, right?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 Hyndai Accent. When it started getting really cold the car began to have issues starting. I turn the key and it tries to start. The battery is fine. I thought it might be something in the fuel line so I had the car towed to the local garage and they said they put the car in the garage and it fired right up. After that the car was fine for a couple weeks. Superbown Sunday after the game I went to get it in and it would not start. On a hunch I went got a bottle of heat put it in and it started right up. It was fine until I refilled the tank then it refused to start so I put more heat in it and it started. I did this once more and it worked. One night after work it wouldn't start so I put heat in it and it would not start. I messed with it for about 2 hours finally I was able to push it down a hill pop the clutch and it started. I took it back to the shop it was in there for 3 days and they were unable to reproduce the problem. Since then every time it is cold it refuses to start I have to push start it every time. Luckily this is still working. I am fed up I dont know what to do with it. Every time I take it to the shop and they cant reproduce the problem it costs me money and I am sick of it.
View 12 RepliesRecently purchased a certified 2011 Lexus ES350 with navigation. I noticed that when pressing the mode button on the steering wheel, the radio toggles from AM, FM1, FM2, and Bluetooth, but completely skips satellite radio. The satellite radio is active and I set presets for all the stations. I can access the satellite radio stations fine when pressing the button on the dash or on the touch screen but the mode button on the steering wheel completely skips the satellite selection.
View 2 RepliesI drove my 1998 VW passat to work last week, a day after changing spark plugs, fuel and oil filter, and engine oil. After work, the car refused to spark. Had to leave it overnight. Till today, the vehicle has refused to spark even though my electricians keep telling everything seems to be ok. The latest I was told was that the engine has lost pressure. What does that mean and what is the possible remedy?
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