My LS460 L (2008) is having startup problems. I press the startup button but doesn't always start and sometimes it takes three attempts to get started. I took it to the dealer in Saudi (ALJ) and they changed the battery and did a full check but couldn't figure the problem. The problem is intermittent.
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My wife's 2007 4-cylinder Camry has 174,000 miles and has been a great car. Recently however the car has become harder to start. The engine cranks fine but it either starts right up or it will just crank. I've learned that if it doesn't start normally, I stop cranking and try to start again. Sometimes it takes up to 4 attempts then it starts normally. It seems like it either gets the fuel and starts correctly or it's not getting fuel and cannot start.
View 14 RepliesBattery died and car (LS 460) was jumped started. Every warning light is on how do I turn them off. Car was running perfectly until battery was drained.
View 3 RepliesI have a friend who owns a 1.8T Passat, and she is having difficulty starting her car. From what i know, her car takes a VERY LONG time, and many attempts before it turns over and finally starts. Currently it take many more tries to get it started. Her battery seems fine, as the car turns over strong, and all electrics work. Also, after her car starts, she has been noticing that it is underpowered, and vibrates hard. It has been over a year since her spark plugs were changed. Correct me if im wrong, but having a turbo powered engine, do the spark plugs wear out faster then naturally aspirated engines. Am i right to assume that the spark plug is the cause for her car not starting, and vibrating hard after it starts.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1997 Celica ST 1.8 liter. Over the past month, it has developed an issue with starting up. It takes several attempts to start up- sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Once its started up, it runs fine. It usually has no problems starting back up as long as I don't wait any longer than 8-12 hours. Once I get passed that mark, it gives me trouble all over again. Some days it won't start at all, regardless of how many times I try or how long I try for. Now going on day 3 of it not starting at all, turns over and sounds like it's trying, but just won't do it.
The second I stop or turn the key off, it makes a noise like it was going to try to start; however, never actually does. It's a very weird thing. I've talked to a ton of people and a few thought it had to be the crankshaft position sensor. But, I just don't think that's spot on. I've done quite a bit of research and personally think it's the cold start injector or something along those lines.
Another thing I just remembered.. I read that cold start injectors are usually on older cars only, not sure if that's true or not because I read a problem on a 2003 that was a cold start injector, which could have just been a site with bad info. But having a separate injector for "cold start" threw me off in the first place. And what I see on my car that I'm thinking is it, is solely based off a few diagrams and pictures I have seen.
Just tried to hand choke it, way closer to starting than it has been the last 3 days. Tried to give it a little gas, but still didn't start. Thought I had it a few times there. Also, noticed some oil sitting on below the engine, but on part of my car not the ground. To the left if I was standing looking under the hood. Between the bumper and the engine, closer to the engine.
So it has been quite cold around here the past couple of weeks. I was driving my Tig the other day to grab some food. My buddy wanted to see how far my sunroof opens. It opened no problem. But then when I tried to close the sunroof, it got just about closed and then reversed to open all the way. It took me about 6 times of opening all the way and then trying to close until it finally closed. My thought is maybe a piece of ice got stuck and made the system think something was on the track?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2006 V6 Sonata that takes its time to get started. It will crank great, but after a few seconds of trying and no starting, I turn the key to the off position and try it again. Most of the time the car will start on the second attempt, but sometimes it requires a third attempt. Here are the facts as I have observed them:
-I cannot hear the fuel pump engage until a split second before the car actually starts.
-There are no RPMs until the fuel pump engages and the car starts.
-The engine runs really rough for a second while the car initially starts and runs.
-When the car is running, it's really smooth. Like, brand new car smooth.
-This issue happens no matter the time of the day or the temperature of the engine.
-The fuse for the fuel pump is fine.
-The fuel pump relay is fine. I know this because I swapped the horn relay with the fuel pump relay and nothing changed with the starting issue and the horn still worked great.
-A friend used a jumper in the fuel pump relay to see if the fuel pump would engage and it did.
-Have not used a fuel pressure gauge as we did not have one on hand.
Is there anything else to check besides using the fuel pressure gauge? Have you run into this same issue? If so, what was the cure? I'm averaging about 20 MPG with mostly city driving. Is that normal for the 2006 V6?
Recent work included new spark plugs, a new gasket somewhere because it was weeping oil there (I think it was the part of the engine that you have to remove in order to get to a couple of the plugs), and the idler pulley thingy and it's belt.
The starting issue started before I got this work done. I took it to a repair shop because of the starting issue and they found these other problems. The funny thing is, they claim that the car started perfectly fine for them every time, which is pretty hard to believe. When I picked the car up from the shop, I tried starting it, it didn't start, but the mechanic was right there to see my issue first hand.
My thinking is that the fuel pump is fine because when it does finally start, the engine runs smooth as silk. I love how when I'm going 80 MPH, just a slight amount of pressure on the gas pedal and I'm up to a hundred in no time flat. I love this Hyundai V6. Now if I can just get it starting normally.
My 1988 Volvo 240 DL often has trouble starting in the rain (I've usually managed to get it going, but it often takes several attempts). I have been told by a friend that he had the same problem with his '86 and replaced the distributor cap, solving the issue. My mechanic told me that he would need to replace the cap and wires. He said that replacing the cap alone won't solve the problem, and would just lead the cap to wear out faster. He told me this without looking at the car. Just want to know if he's right--do I need to replace the cap and wires? Is it possible that changing the cap alone will solve the problem? Could I change the cap and see if there's still a problem, or is it better to just do it all at once?
View 12 RepliesMy husband's 2000 Ford Expedition has 94K miles and has been very well maintained. For the past few months, it's been having intermittent ignition problems. It'll start up fine for a few days, and then suddenly will need several-to-many attempts in order to start. Engine cranks every time, but won't catch. A few times it has taken over 10 min to get it started, and on occasion we've had to take our other vehicle instead. My son and I spent 15 creepy minutes in a dark parking lot the other night trying to get the truck to start.
It's in the Ford repair shop for the third time in a month now (last time was for 4 days), and the shop has been unable to replicate the problem enough to diagnose it. (The two times when it wouldn't start for them was when they DIDN'T have it hooked up to fuel-system test equipment.) I'm getting the sense they just want us to go away quietly and buy a new vehicle, but this one is the type we like...paid for! The problem occurs at various times of day...in various types of weather...when truck is hot, cold, or in between...gas tank at different levels...we can't find a common denominator, and all other diagnostics come back fine. The only slightly creepy suggestion the shop had was that maybe someone poured sugar in the gas tank..
Very occasionally my 4.6 doesn't seem to be getting fuel when I crank it. On those occasions the starter cranks the engine fine, but it takes two or three attempts to actually start. 64K on the truck, and the fuel filter was changed about 10K ago, throttle body cleaned at the same time. Does this sound like a FDCM issue?
View 2 RepliesWhere the ECU is located? Can't seem to find my manual.
View 7 RepliesI have tested 07 UL package a while ago, really liked the car, how it drives, really quiet, very smooth, good acceleration, very comfy etc. the only concern for me is it spacious enough ? I'm driving around 90% in town, how is it on a long trips with 2 - 4 people.... ?
Immediately after I parked ES 350, I have tried LS460 07 AWD, somehow it felt under power for me, maybe cuz it's a awd.. ES was faster in my opinion. It had it 100k miles on it, the car felt really solid like a rock, safer, but slower. Maybe a RWD would feel differently.
My plan is keep the car for 5 years or so, I'm also concern about maintenance costs too. As today I'm pretty much can get a LS 460 07 or ES 350 UL 10-12' for the same price.
I took it in to Charles barker Lexus (our dealer here) and they said the water pump was leaking, the front struts were totally blown out, and the 2 belt tensioners had some free play.
Got the dealership I purchased from to pay for the water pump but they would not cover the struts because they said the car pass inspection so they don't believe they are damaged.
Got and independent shop to replace the front struts with kyb 551122 for $400 parts and labor. While they were under the car they said the upper and lower control arms looked newer as if they were replaced recently
Got all wheels balanced at a little small used tire shop small change. The vibration that started at 60mph now starts at 65. Question is are all tire balancers created equally?
I purchased my first Lexus in October, a very clean 2009 ls460. In colder weather (for Tucson AZ) in the 30's to 40's I notice that the transmission slips while the car is accelerating between 2nd and third gear.
By slipping, I mean as the car shifts between 2nd and 3rd it feels like it goes into neutral for a half second, so rpms spike 500 rpm, the car stops accellerating, and then catches as the next gear is finally engaged.
It does this pretty much every day when the car has been sitting overnight on the first steady acceleration after backing out of the garage. It only does it once, subsequent shifts a re pretty much normal.
Every once in a while coming out of a parking lot after say grocery shopping, it will do it again, just once.
I dropped it at the dealer and they of course could not replicate it.
I made a youtube video which shows it sort of. besides the rise in engine rpm, you feel a lurch in the acceleration as it drops down into gear.
Service records showed the trans was serviced just before I bought it.
Transmission slipping - YouTube
My wife has a 2007 LS460. Some dummy at a big box store tied down the trunk to get a chair home by threading rope through the latch mechanism. Needless to say, the trunk will not close. Not with the button or manually. I tried the disconnect battery thing. Nothing. The lid goes all the way down.
View 14 RepliesOur 2007 LS 460 (98k miles) drives like a dream except from about 75-85 mph we have a general vibration. Its most evident in the steering wheel but everything in the car has a general vibration. It may have been there for a few months now, but I felt it when I drove it yesterday. There is absolutely no vibration below 75 and none above 85 (I was cruising at 90 mph and the car was solid). I tried to do some investigating:
Tires: Appear to be fine in regards to wear and the tire pressure is about the same in all of them in the mid 30 s. Alignment is fine and the car does not pull to any side.
Brakes: New brake pads about 10k miles ago at dealership and work absolutely fine.
Transmission / engine (I hope not): The car is 7th gear at that speed but it usually is anytime above 50 mph so its quite odd. We don't lose power and no lights are set off.
Body work / damage: doesn't appear to be anything on the front or sides of the car that cause this.
I've been waiting for to trade in my 04 Acura TL and move up drastically to either a 2010 GS450H or 2010 LS460 Sport. Both are driving me crazy because I absolutely love the look of both cars and the more I keep looking at the wheel photos makes it even harder.
I have 3 kids but 2 of which are older so size doesn't matter. I do prefer the GS due to the super sleek looking and 20" are a win BUT the LS on 22" with the air ride and data controller is a super win!!! not to mention the 19 speakers are better then the 14.
I know that I have to drive each car and I have not yet. Also pricing is pretty close for each car and it looks like the gas mileage is also pretty darn close so I don't believe that is an issue either way unless I'm wrong??
Got in my 2007 LS460 and it wouldn't start. No power, no clicking, nothing. I checked the battery terminals and noticed they has some corrosion so I cleaned them and reattached. Nothing. I found that if I jiggled the positive cable the power would light up my dashboard with every light / radio, but it still wouldn't start....and I had to disconnect the cable in order to turn the power off. I had the car towed to a trusted Toyota/Lexus repair shop I've used for 15 years. They connected the cables to the battery and it started right up....but the power steering is out. They tried multiple things to get it working with no success. The only option now is to replace the electronic power steering unit.
View 3 RepliesLooking for instructions on how to replace the LS460's low beam HID bulb ?? its quite crowded around the headlight ...
View 3 RepliesWhen I drive my car ls460 , ABS & VSC and traction light coming on the board, sometime disappear and after 3 or 5 days coming on the board again .
I check by the computer, I found this code C1253 which mean (pump motor relay). What is this code or the location in the car.
How to reset the oil service indicator? I called the dealer and they just want me to take the car to them so they can reset it.
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