Lexus LS 2007+ :: LED Won't Work After Installing New Version
Oct 31, 2012
I got my new interior LED lights and went to install. All good up, Went to put in rear dome, which is usually easier than the front. Plugged everything in,nothing.
Played with it for a minute... nothing. Put original LED back in, now that one doesn't work. Spot lights on either side of the dome work fine.
I checked the fuse box on the drivers side, all good.
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What is the process for determining the version of the nav/radio software we have?
This is relative to the chronic system reboot problem that so many of us are experiencing.
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I have a 2009 LS460 with 119k on the clock. Last winter noticed the AC system began this thing where after parked for over an hour or so, the temp reset to 75, and the other settings went to some neutral setting. So when this condition occurs (practically every time I get in the car) I have to wait for about a minute before I get anything from the AC or heat system, and it all has to be reset.
When I first bought the car (2 yrs ago, used, 70k on the clock) this condition was not present.
Recently, I noticed that unless the car is moving, I get only outside temp air, regardless of the settings in cold temperatures where I need heat, defrost, etc.
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have problems with LKA while driving at night. While driving at day time, LKA works perfectly. However, if I drive at night (on the same road), LKA seems to work 1 out of 10 times, no more. The radar works fine day and night.
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Installed the euroswitch yesterday because I want the parking lights to work in the front. All the lights work except for the front parking! In the second click I have the rear but no front. Am I missing something or do I have a bad euroswitch?
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I must be missing something does this make sense to me. Headlight switch is on auto. If I go into the nav unit to vehicle settings. I find the headlight timer settings. If I set it to 30 sec. the headlights turn off when I shut off the car and then wait 30 seconds.
But if I set it to OFF and then turn off the car the headlights should turn off. Instead they stay on, and from what I can tell never turn off. I waited 5 minutes before I gave up and changed the setting back.
To me OFF should mean there is no delayed timer and the lights just come on when it is dark and off in daylight. Of course with the car started and the headlight switch still on auto.
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I just picked up a 2007 Lexus GS450h in MM.
I have tried everything that I could up to this point but can not get my fog lights and city lights to work. I have changed the bulbs, checked the fuses and the only other thing that I can think of is the fog light relay. What is the location of the fog light relay on the 3GS, I am almost positive that this is definitely the issue for the fogs and I'm also hopeful that it could be the issue with the city lights.
Also, I've seen that there is a 7.5a fuse in the trunk that is labeled 'RR Fog', I'm pretty sure this is for nonUSDM models but maybe this being the culprit?
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I bought a new auxiliary battery online and installed it. I reset the driver's side power window. But my CD changer now beeps four times, all the lights turn green and orange, and I cannot play a CD from the changer or eject any of the discs. Both discs currently stuck in it are store bought Third Eye Blind CDs with no stickers, labels, etc.
I'm assuming that the CD player needs to be reset. Someone in another thread mentioned unplugging the battery for 20 seconds, while someone else said I need to enter a code that I can get from the dealer. I can go without the changer but the beeping is maddening.
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The right front headlight sometimes doesn't work on our Lexus. One time my wife was driving home after dark and it didn't work. When she got home I tried it and it worked fine. A couple days ago she was pulled over by the police because the same headlight was out. Once again when I went to try it, it was fine. What might be the problem. Loose connection or wiring?? By the way... I have been reading about the windows popping out and the clips breaking. Same thing happened at around 60,000 miles to the right side, with no tint.
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On my 2007 Lexus LS460L the telescopic part of my steering wheel stop working the tilt still works perfectly. It makes a whirring type sound but the steering wheel does not extend or retract.
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So this morning, I pressed memory seat #1, and it did not move my chair to the position that I set it for. I had to adjust the chair manually. Every time, I move the chair back or recline the back, in intermittently beeped every 1-2 seconds. It does not beep if I move the chair forward. Could it be the fuse? or what could be wrong?
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Any way to find out what year/version the map in the NAV is. Not the software version found in general settings system info, but the map itself.
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I have a 2008 LS360L with 4-zone climate control. For whatever reason, the rear seat controls and display do not work for climate control. The controls still work for radio, rear seat adjustment and window shades, but climate functions are unoperable.
Additionally, the 4-zone buttons on the nav touchscreen are now missing in the climate menu. There used to be left / right passenger settings and then a button to switch to rear seat settings. These options have all disappeared from the menu.
I can press the 4-zone physical button on dash and manually change temperature settings for driver or passenger by pressing physical driver / passenger temperature up / down buttons.
The only thing I can attribute to this is I had the dealer do a map upgrade to the nav system. All other features / functions work, but the timing is somewhat suspect... They really do not believe this upgrade caused the problem.
Are there hidden menus I may have hit to deactivate this feature?
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Trying to change the front sway bar bushing with a PU version? Does it improve handling and steering feedback?
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So I bought the carbon paddle shifters that Khoa was selling from the first carbon steering wheel he got.
Having already replaced my OEM steering wheel with the flat-bottomed version, I was familiar with the process for removing what I needed to change the shifters over.
Everything went fine, and after checking all the connections were good, I re-installed the steering wheel, re-connected the battery, and took the car for a test-drive.
At first I left the car in auto, and tried using the paddles. Nothing. Flicked the shifter over to manual-mode, and it popped up I was in 4th. Tried shifting with the paddles to go up or down, but nothing.
I was short for time, so had to leave it like that for a few days.
I then removed the wheel again, and reinstalled my OEM silver shifters. Took the car out for another test-drive, and it works fine.
Khoa was kind enough to speak to the guys that sell these along with the very nice steering wheels everyone is talking about. They suggested I swap over the paddles so I keep the electrics of my OEM shifters. The paddles themselves are only held in with a gudgeon pin, which tapped out quite easily. The paddle itself slots in to a hole in a metal piece inside the plastic end pieces. Looks as if it simply moves up and down when you flick the paddle front or backwards.
I mounted the carbon paddles into my OEM electrics, and tapped the gudgeon pins back into place. I then re-assembled the steering wheel, check the connections, and re-installed the wheel. Re-connected the battery and took the car for a test-drive with everything firmly crossed.
Nothing!
The paddles won't work at all. Not up or down. I am so confused as to why they don't work. I can't see any differences between the OEM silver paddles and the carbon versions. Not sure what my next move will be. I need to try putting the OEM paddles back together, and see if they work. If they do, I am baffled as to what the fundamental difference can be between the two?
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what the lowest version of iOS that will work with the Audio System for a 2012 Prius? Couldn't find this info. in the manual.
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I'm at my wit's end trying to install cruise control in my 2009 Corolla. I thought it was a relatively easy install, but then after putting the airbag in place, I find that the horn no longer works. I test out the cruise control, and the green "Cruise" lights up on the dashboard..but it doesn't actually work.
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So I'm about to install an RNS-510 and I can't figure out where the Sirius module location is so I can install the extension that you need.
It's 2007 with 6 discs in dash changer with Sirius.
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A couple of times this winter my 2007 Santa Fe with a 3.3 engine acted like it didn't want to start. I thought battery! However, it stopped doing that, and I kept driving it.
On the way home from work, I noticed the ESC Off light showing, so I pushed the button and it stayed lit. Then I noticed the battery warning light lit. Made it home and pulled into the garage. Turned off the engine and tried to start, no go.
I have changed two batteries this year in my two other Hyundai's, so I just pulled it and got a new one. Installed the new one, started the engine, and the battery warning light is still lit. Must be the alternator.
I have 68k on the vehicle, so I counted myself lucky that the battery lasted that long. I guess I am due for a new alternator too.
What are the chances that it is just the regulator? Can I safely drive to and from work then to the dealership. Round trip is 30 miles.
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My 2005 Infiniti G35 has 144,000 miles, two new rear tires and two good front tires. Sometimes, and I cannot nail down or reproduce-on-demand this situation, my car will suddenly begin to vibrate as if I'm driving over a smaller version of those rumble strips on the side of the road. The vibration continues when I take my foot off the accelerator, and will continue at a slower rate as I decelerate until I stop. Often it seems that when I come to a dead stop and accelerate again, the vibration stops, but other times it will continue as I accelerate.
But what's really odd is other times I'll just be cruising along and the vibration will begin, keep vibrating for a few miles, then peter out and disappear. I haven't totally nailed down whether or not braking affects it, but if pressed I would say that I would use the brakes at least once before it disappears. Also, it only seems to begin once I hit 50-60 mph, but again, it doesn't happen every time I go this speed. Other times this car drives incredible and makes the road feel as smooth as glass.
I haven't taken it to the shop because I'm sure they won't be able to reproduce it.
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my 07 Camry has about 80k miles on her. I got fed up with the boring stock head unit and decided to get a new 8" headunit that would match the interior touch screen and all. Anyways I'm a fan of my AC as I normally use it. I took it to the audio shop to get my new headunit installed. I drive a couple hours enjoying it and decide to put on the ac. My problem is The air conditioning is only coming out of the passenger side now very cold and stale warm air is coming from the driver side vents. I can't figure it out. I got upset and went back to the shop to see if maybe they did something wrong and didn't hook something up correctly.
So they did everything they could and showed me that it wasn't any of there doing and that it's extremely "coincidental" that this happened immediately after they installed it. Anyways I'm also noticing that the light pointer above the dial on all 3 dials on the AC unit are not lighting up. And the light I am talking about is the pointer light that points and which measure of heat/cool comes out. The middle buttons still work and are lighting up as well as the off/on ac portions night back lights are working properly.
Also I have only the standard AC unit. Not dual climate. All my vents are set correctly as I never really mess with them. is there a possibility they could have damaged the Blend Door actuator. And know where the blend door actuator is located on a camry?
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