My 2007 LS 460 has developed an intermittent heater problem. The heater works fine when driving at higher speeds but when I slow way down or sit @ idle the cabin cools quickly even if one adjusts the temp. arrow. Once you regain faster speeds the problem rectifies itself.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2010 LS460 AWD with 42k miles and notice when I am making a medium to wide angle turn at parking lot speeds the front wheels make an intermittent metallic clicking/ticking noise that can be clearly heard when the windows are down and stereo is off. The noise can be heard when turning in either direction, driving forward or in reverse, and both accelerating and slowing down. Doesn't seem to happen when I'm turning the steering wheel while the car is stationary. Dealer suspects noise is due to dry contact areas between pads, calipers, and anti rattle springs and wants to perform a brake service for $330 before they're willing to investigate further (car still under warranty till end of the year). If noise is brake-related shouldn't it only occur when I'm applying the brakes? What should I do?
View 7 RepliesMy family has had this car for a long time. It worked fine for years but in the past year it has had some problems when starting. Sometimes the car starts fine, sometimes it won't start until you re-try a few times, sometimes it won't start and you can try over and over and it never does. When it doesn't start, it doesn't do anything at all, no sound or anything. The battery is not dead, the car has more than half a tank of gas. Recently, the car started fine, but after driving it for a while, we stopped at a stop light.
When we tried to accelerate after the stop, the car died, during the acceleration and a left turn. We got the car going again after trying a few times, but later that same trip, the car died again when accelerating, but this time it was from a slow speed, not a stop and it was while we were driving straight. The car is well taken care of (oil changes, check the oil, do not let it get to under a quarter of a tank, change transmission filter & oil, air filter, brakes, etc.) The timing chain is permanent, stainless steel. We do not drive very much but we are afraid to now that we don't know if it will die while we are driving.
I have a 09 santa fe and it just started doing this. when we start it and let it warm up it will get the normal temp and will blow hot air but when we start to drive the thermostat goes back down to cold and it will blow cold air. I have had a problem similar to this before and taken it back to the dealership and they replace the same thing over and over. but this time its not fixing itself and it is staying like this. usually it will fix itself.
View 5 RepliesI have now had the first major issue with my 2012 Santa Fe 3.5L AWD. It started out with an intermittent low oil pressure light coming on at idle. As I researched I found the Oil Pressure Switch thread:
Oil Pressure Switch Replacement - 2010 Santa Fe 3.5L
And using that information I proceeded to replace the switch and while the switch had obviously failed unfortunately that didn't fix the problem. I tore everything down a second time to make sure the replacement switch hadn't failed and to make sure it wasn't leaking. Turns out that everything looked good yet the oil pressure light was still coming on after everything was warmed up.
Tonight I tore everything down for a third time to put an extension hose on the oil pressure port so I could hook up a mechanical pressure gauge in addition to the oil switch. While I am very pleased with how the extension hose worked out, however it appears that I do indeed have low oil pressure. Without letting it warm up completely I was dropping down below 15psi.
I guess at this point my best case scenario is a malfunctioning oil pump and worst case is worn bearings. With only 67k miles and fairly religious oil changes I am praying for the oil pump. My next step is to contact the dealer as I am still under the powertrain warranty, hopefully that goes well. I will try to keep this thread updated as I learn more. Up to this point I have really enjoyed the Santa Fe and have had minimal issues with it.
I have done hours of searching about the rough idle on the SC430. What I haven't been able to find is any information about an intermittent rough idle. I have cleaned my MAF sensor twice.
I am having my mechanic replace the radiator tomorrow because of a leak and he is also replacing the idler pulley and the belt tensioner (one of them is making a noise and I purchased an extended warranty!) At the same time he will be doing a throttle body cleaning. I had my timing belt replaced as well as the water pump and had my mechanic check all the spark plugs and all were fine.
I am going to have him check the motor mounts as well. The RPM's are fine with the AC on or off and I have used Lucas fuel treatment on this current tank of gas without any results and my next tank I will try Seafoam as suggested by my mechanic.
2007 GS 350 109,500 miles. My heater was blowing cold at idle and warm when driving so I took it to dealer. To my surprise, dealer says its a blown head gasket. No other symptoms. No white smoke, no smells, no warning lights on dash, and running fine. Just had VVT gear recall done last week.
Fortunately I have Lexus extended warranty good thru 125k miles and Feb 2014. I do my own maintenance (plugs, oil changes etc). Have records for all. But have not done coolant change (due at 100k).
Still showing the same codes (per repairman) and still having the intermittent rough idle at low speeds when the engine is warm. It has been so intermittent that I could almost live with it.
So repair guys first replaces the VCT's and runs fine until warmed up and the problem reoccurs with the same codes. He replaces both cam phasers and tensioners today and still same problem and same codes which point to the VCT and cam phasers.
Truck has 80k, city driven, oil changed every 3k or so. Burns ethanol and still runs great at speeds over 10 mph even when this problem appears.
My '06 GS450h has developed a fault where the heater blows cold at idle and low revs but blows warm when driving or revving the engine at a standstill. The coolant hasn't dropped at all and the car never goes above halfway on the temp gauge. Its starting to get frustrating now the cold weather has set in and temps dropping! Long journeys are ok as at high speeds it stays warm but short journeys are uncomfortable!
I just had a feel of the rad hoses and hoses that go into the matrix (engine side of bulk head) and matrix hoses feel warm (both of them), the top hose to the rad is warm but not hot and bottom hose is cold suggesting the stat hasn't opened yet. Its cold outside so getting the car up to temp is quite difficult without a long drive (rush hour at the mo).
Still I just had the car parked on the drive and cranked the heater up to max and held the accelerator for a while and super warm air blows out. The engine cuts back out as "normal operating temp" has been reached for battery mode and then the heater goes cool again! Still the bottom radiator hose is cool and top hose not massively warm. It has never overheated thus far and I drive 150miles a day back and forth to Reading from Cheltenham 4 nights a week.
Only thing I can think of is a sticky thermostat or water pump not operating sufficiently enough to circulate the water? Its getting colder and short trips where it used to blow warm air nice and quickly (within 3-5miles) are becoming unpleasant!
So I have a 2008 ES 350 with 53,000 miles on it. In December of 2015, It was starting fine, then it sat for about two weeks without me driving it. When I went to start it, it had to be jumped. It took longer and longer to start (more cranks) until I took it in. Also there was a delay between hitting the lock button on the handle and the car actually locking. The battery was still the original one, and the dealer tested it and it was in fact in need of replacement.
Now here's where things get weird: I replaced the battery with a brand new Interstate 24f 700 CCA battery from Costco. The car starts now, but it is kind of slow (about 4-5 cranks) to start. Also, the car starts faster (two or one crank(s)) if I first put it into accessory mode then start it.
Looking for the diagram on how to remove the heater blower unit from an ES350 2008, i need to clean out the unit since i can hear rattling when the blower is on, sound like foreight objects inside.
I google a little bit and found this: [URL] ....
The unit i need to clean is 87103B .....
My 2007 Lexus ES350 with 81,000 miles on it has a very low frequency squeak when the heater is first cold or on low. When I turn up the fan above the lowest setting the squeak will go away. I checked my cabin air filter but it appears to be clean & newly replaced.
View 7 RepliesMy 2007 es350 77k miles. Heater starts to get warm and then it blows cold air. What could cause this.
View 8 RepliesI have an intermittent sound coming from my engine. It shows up out of nowhere and could last 20 seconds to 2 minutes. Because it's intermittent, I can't seem to pinpoint where it's coming from. Sound file is attached.
It's a 2008 with 79K miles.
For the past few months, I've had a weird intermittent check engine/VSC light problem. I've noticed that it comes after getting gas...and sometimes goes away after getting gas. I've jiggered the gas cap to be sure it's tight. Is it possible that this is something as simple as the seal in the cap gone bad?
View 4 RepliesI am the original owner of a 2007 LS460 with under 36K miles. Recently, my SRS (Airbag) warning light came on, but after I restarted the car it went off. However, shortly thereafter it came back on again, but it went off after I restarted the car. The last time it came on it stayed on. So I brought it into the dealer 2 weeks ago to diagnose it. They provided me with a service loaner ES350 and I'm still waiting for their decision as to what, if anything, they will do.
I discovered that on January 13, 2010, Lexus issued Service Bulletin Number 282827 in response to the National Highway Transportation Safety Administration (NHTSA) Action Number 10033557. Here is the Summary: "Lexus supplemental restraint systems. Some model vehicles may exhibit an srs light on condition with dtc b1861 and/or b 1866. After confirming the vehicle condition matches the bulletin, it will direct you to replace the instrument panel."
It appears that my LS460 matches that bulletin. Note that this is a Service Bulletin and NOT a recall, notwithstanding the fact that it pertains to a safety system, namely, SRS - the supplemental restraint system (airbags). My Service Adviser told me that because Lexus has not received enough complaints this matter has not been escalated to the level of a recall. He did not tell me how many complaints were received.
Because my car is out of warranty, my Service Adviser requested a courtesy repair from Lexus for the following reasons: (1) I purchased 2 brand new vehicles from this dealer (LS460 and RX350); (2) both vehicles have been serviced by the book; and (3) my LS460 has under 36K miles.
I would like to know if any other LS460 owners have experienced a similar intermittent airbag warning light and, if so, how that was resolved.
I'm thinking the battery but I haven't got any dash light indicating low battery.
View 7 RepliesDuring an extended drive of the new ride today, we noticed an intermittent vibration when coasting downhill around 60MPH. I popped it in neutral and the vibration disappeared completely. Also, it stayed vibration-free when placed back in Drive, without touching the gas. But as soon as throttle is applied and then you coast again, the vibration reappears.
This points to a condition that only happens when the torque converter is locked, which could be a vibration originating within the transfer case that once coupled to the engine via the locked torque converter uses the engine as a tuning fork, resulting in the vibration. The L-SB-0013-12 AWD Vibration TSB mentions an ECM recalibration, which likely changes the torque converter to unlock whenever you lift off the gas pedal. Is this correct?
I also remember reading about the other TSB, where the "magic expensive fluid" in the transfer case gets changed 3 times in rapid succession. This would address chattering clutches within the transfer case, eliminating vibration at the source vs. masking it by unlocking the torque converter.
We also noticed a misfiring sensation under light throttle conditions at around 40-50MPH. I'm wondering if this is in fact the transfer case clutch chatter issue also...since the 60k spark plug replacement has already been done.
I have a 2012 LS 460 and when I select intermittent wipers the wipers make 1 sweep and then nothing '
View 7 RepliesI have had this intermittent clicking noise from the front left wheels. It sounds almost like a rock wedged in the tread but its not. I checked and the tire is clean. I inspected as much as I can see but see nothing abnormal. Any clue what the deal is?
I stared having the noise right after having the front left tire replaced and it seems to happen when the brakes are hot. I don't hear it in the morning or if I let the car cool down and drive it an hour or two later. My brakes are original rotors at 74K miles and the pads are probably in the 45K range . Not sure what the deal is but it drives me crazy when I can hear with the windows down ( I live in AZ its still in the 70s). I had an issue like this with my GS350 but cant remember what fixed it or what the issue was .
I have an ongoing issue with my 2007 LS460L. Sometimes when I start the car I get multiple warnings on the display and the car will not shift out of Park unless the override button is used. The window switches are disabled and the turn signals won't operate.
The car has had the issue since I purchased it used with 12,000 miles on it. But it has become a lot more frequent in the last couple of months. It seems to happen more often after being parked in the hot sun.
The dealer has been useless as far as finding the problem. It does not throw or store any codes. It only happens occasionally and never at the dealership. Usually I can restart the car after about 20 minutes or so and the problem has disappeared.
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