Lexus LS 2007+ :: Installed New Battery, Car Idle At Around 400 - 450 Rpm
Aug 25, 2015
My car battery was bad and took it to get it exchanged for a new one. Car was without the battery for probably around 6 hours. Came home and installed the new battery and car fired right up but I noticed that it idles at around 400-450 rpm. This is with the ac on or off. AC does not increase the RPM any. But I also noticed that at this RPM, the AC doesnt blow any cold air. As soon as I barely press the throttle and it gets to where it used to idle prior (600-700) the AC blows cold again. The car has never idled this low prior. I took the battery out for around 2 minutes and still the same thing. Ive also read about leaving it disconnected for 30-60 min and see if it works.
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I have a 2007 bottle fed EX 350. I am installing XM into it. SAT/AM button scrolls thru SAT 1 2 3. Display sometimes shows 184 or 255. Occasionally is says Radio Err, It has displayed "radio id" with nothing else, And I managed to get it to display a cryptic looking F W1 4 30 .
NO XM ID
Siriusxm cannot work with my vin.
Cannot tune to ch0 as there is no XM preview going on.
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Installed the coilovers , took it for a drive , the rear end is just way to stiff. It seems like there was no rebound at all. We have the setting to softest. When installing the coilovers, the whole spring and shock assy was about 3 inches shorter than the OEM parts. We have to jack up the lower control arm to get it to mount. Is something adjusted wrong?
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I have an 09 ES 350 that I decided to put some very nice subwoofers and amp in. When I found out that I needed more power, I took out my spare tire and mounted a second battery in where the tire is supposed to go.
We'll sure enough when I drove the car later the TPMS light came on and started flashing. The system has to be able to read all 5 TPMS sensors. 4 tires and the spare. So when I took the spare tire out, the system thought there was something wrong with that sensor and turned the light on.
So what I did was I took a piece of PVC pipe and 2 PVC caps, drilled a hole in one of the caps, inserted a new TPMS sensor into the cap, then glued everything together.
After it dried I pressurized it to 35 psi, mounted it in my trunk next to the jack, and reset the TPMS system so the light would go off. Now the TPMS system thinks the spare tire is back and there are no more problems.
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Installed aftermarket wheels with thegorilla lock set (20 locks total)? I ask because after installing my wheels, i had slight vibration from 68-75mph (nothing really crazy, but i feel it) and now that i installed the gorilla guard locks for added safety today, i seem to be getting slight vibration at lower speeds (40mph more or less).. could it be due to the wheel guard locks?
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Just picked up a Ctek 3300 battery charger for my 2008 LS460L since we only drive it a few days a week. Is it safe to connect directly to the battery under the hood?
Where is the ideal spot to jump start on an LS? Reason I ask is that my BMW 6series have the battery at the back trunk but for any charging or jump starts it must be done under the hood where there is a terminal that goes to the battery.
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My 07 camry's battery died last week and I got it jumped, drove about a mile and while at idle it felt as if the alternator was not charging the battery and It was slowly dying. Took it to Tires Plus, they said the computer forgot how to idle, so it was misfiring and threatening to shut down at every idle. 80 dollars later...it was fixed, for a week.
This morning, my battery was dead again, again from leaving a power connection unscrewed that came from my fog lights attached to the battery in the car after cleaning it on sunday, called AAA. He said that I have to get a screw to screw it back in or it will die once I turn off the engine again.
I work at a construction plant so we have quite a few nuts and washers laying around. Well it had a rough idle again, on the way to work, lights would be bright then dim again and vibrating the car, like it's struggling to keep the power.
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I have a 2000 lexus es 300, last winter I put a new battery in it because it had been going dead. During the summer and fall it was fine but now this winter it's dying again. I don't drive it too often (once every week or two) but every time I go to drive it it's dead again. It doesn't seem to just be a cold thing (it will start within hours and typically days of last being jumped). It has also been known to die from idle, the most recent time I was waiting for my girlfriend at the airport and I was idling in the queue, I eventually got out to see if I could see her waiting somewhere else, so I turned the car off. When I got back in my car it was dead. Is energy leaking somewhere?
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My mechanic installed a new Hybrid battery in my 2005 Pruis using the repair manual and a video that showed him how to do it. He also replaced the harness and the ECU battery. When he tries to start the car all of the lights light up on the dash but no ready light on the start button and the car will not start. The instructions did not say anything about this issue so he is lost! He thinks the smart key and the ECU have to be synced in some way but doesn't know how to do it. (none of the books covered this.
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After my mechanic installed a new battery my car radio doesn't work. It turns on and lights up but generally only produces static. Every now and then it tunes into a station, with much static, but generally not. The fuse is fine. The radio manufacturer, LG, says this radio has no code so that isn't the issue.
My car is a 1999 SEAT Arosa 1.4 6h with APQ motor. It's essentially a small version of the VW Golf.
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Over last two years have replaced a few alternators and (3?) batteries in my 2000 Solara SLE with 150,000 miles. However, In last three months I have had three additional alternators. Car wouldn't start, had it towed, and a mechanic put in new alternator and battery. Happens again, car won't start (now own a jump charger!), and the same mechanic puts in new alternator. Happens again and Mechanic #1 says he has checked it and its fine. I then go to my regular mechanic... Says its the alternator which is bad (when you put the AC and Radio on, it appears to charge for a while, but if you leave it running it will stop charging and then after a while it will go to overcharging and undercharging. I noticed when driving on highway my lights will brighten and dim).
He sends me back to the first mechanic because the alternator is bad. They put in a new alternator. I take it back to Mechanic #2 my regular mechanic to test it so I don't get stuck. He says its still doing the same thing. I tell him I will pay to have him put in the new alternator and he can own the warranty.... He sends me to a car electrical specialist. After having my car for 3 days the car electrical specialist just called and said in 30 years he has never given up but he has now. May or may not be related: My check engine light was coming on and I had mechanic put in new oxygen sensors. I also have intermittant traction light and ABS light coming on and the check engine light will sometimes come on too. My dash board feels like Christmas...
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I am not going to use my Prius for six months. What can I do to keep the starter battery alive? this battery is almost new. Also would like to hear if the long period of inaction will affect the main battery.
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I have a 97 Toyota Celica. Had a new battery installed and now the radio and clock do not work. Replaced the 15 fuse in the fuse area to the left of the steering wheel - which worked in the past - but this time, nothing. The cigarette lighter works, but no clock or radio.
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I replaced the battery because I was getting the red triangle with no screen powerup. This is a slight improvement but I'm stuck as to what the "Problem" indicator on the MFD is about.
I've checked the battery in maintenance mode, reading 12.6V.
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My mechanic installed a new Hybrid battery in my 2005 Pruis using the repair manual and a video that showed him how to do it. He also replaced the harness and the ECU battery. When he tries to start the car all of the lights light up on the dash but no ready light on the start button and the car will not start. The instructions did not say anything about this issue so he is lost! He thinks the smart key and the ECU have to be synced in some way but doesn't know how to do it.
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I purchased a new 12 volt battery from Toyota and installed in my 2009 Prius. My car wouldn't start. So, next I tried to jumpstart it. I pressed the Power button (the light was GREEN) but it wouldn't start. I pressed the Power button again (The light was AMBER) and the hybrid drive engaged and the CHECK ENGINE light came on; however, the engine didn't start, the dashboard didn't light up and the READY indicator did not appear.
Next, I grabbed the Owner's Manual and went through the Troubleshooting sequence. Engine still wouldn't start.
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There is no electric power (no lights, no dash indicators, no starting, nada...) New battery just put in.
More background: old 'beater' hyundai, manual trans, not sure of year but older one (looks a lot like the picture for this forum). It was sitting in storage for over a year and was driven in to that slot. It belonged to my son's friend who just gave it to him. Was going to drive it away (tires, oil ok) but of course would not start. no lights will come on, interior or exterior. turning key in ignition to any position makes no difference - still no power to anything. Battery cables seem ok. Could find no blown fuses, either inside or under the hood.
So, what are we missing? What is the magical fix that will quickly get this thing on the road (we want to stop the storage fees too).
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Install new HV Battery in 2005 and now I have no dash display lights.
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So my 2003 VW Passat will not start. I last drove it a few days ago, and it has been sitting inside a nice warm garage. The battery was replaced a few months ago. The car doesn't "turn over" but just has a steady sound when you try to start it. It's not a clicking sound like I had 6 months ago with it. I attached a link to the audio file of me trying to start it today. There are no warning lights per se coming on only the typical ones coming up when the ignition key is turned on. The lights and interior lamps come on indicating there seems to be power but nothing else. The plugs were cleaned a few months ago as well. Could it be alternator? I could try jumping it but the sound it makes leads me to believe there is plenty of juice.
[URL] .....
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2009 Sonata 4 cyl with 40,000 miles.
My car was slow to start last night. This morning took it to Autozone and they checked the battery, which was bad. Got the new battery installed and drove about a mile then turned off engine. Upon restarting engine, Check Engine Light came on.
The timing is such that it seems the CEL is because of the battery. How to handle? My car has otherwise run perfectly in its first 40,000 miles of life. Only other relevant detail is that the presets on my radio kept resetting, I figured this may be because of low battery power.
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Today the dealership did a tuneup, replaced the timing belt, and put in a new battery. I started my car and the radio did not work. They went out and reset the radio but said it would not reset, they check the fuses and said they were all good. They took my radio out and put a different radio in and that radio worked which they said then proved to them that it was the radio itself rather than a problem in the vehicles wiring. They told me it must be a coincidence that it just broke on it's own at the same time they were changing the battery. They assured me that nothing they did could possibly have anything to do with this. They want to send out my radio for repair and have me pay for it.
Is it possible they did not change the battery properly? Could something they did kill my radio?This just does not make sense to be but I did not want to cause a comotion until I have further knowledge on this subject.
My car is a 2003 Hyundai Sante Fe with 92,000 miles on it.
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