Lexus LS 2007+ :: Installed BC Coilovers - Rear End Is Too Stiff
Mar 22, 2013
Installed the coilovers , took it for a drive , the rear end is just way to stiff. It seems like there was no rebound at all. We have the setting to softest. When installing the coilovers, the whole spring and shock assy was about 3 inches shorter than the OEM parts. We have to jack up the lower control arm to get it to mount. Is something adjusted wrong?
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Installed coilovers last weekend, and heard a clunking on the rear drivers side. I figured i'd let it settle a week before going back and double checking everything and setting the height i wanted, but everything seems tight and it still clunks when i go over bumps.
I realize I can speculate all i want online, but I'd like possible causes before I start digging.
- top strut mount gone bad (there a way to test this?)
- top strut loose (either to the car or to the strut itself)
- springs not seated perfectly
And I have searched, but i cant find any possible solutions.
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i got my coilovers on and both the front and back are all the way down as far as they can go but they fronts are still about 1/4" higher. will the fronts take longer to settle in? ins been a few days.
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Installed ST coilovers at 2200 miles, my only suspension mod. When I'm backing up or going at really slow speeds and turning there is a very annoying creaking/grinding noise. I've taken everything apart and looked at it again to no avail. Anything I should be looking for in specific?Could it be from over-tightening? Just thought I'd ask here before I take it to a shop.
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Recently had 2012 ES350 aligned at about 14,000 miles. Drives fairly straight at lower speeds on most roads, but on interstate has sharp left pull in left lane at around 65 mph and above. I am aware of road crown, but, in contrast to left lane pull, car has virtually no pull either way in right lane and tends to drive straight; steering at least seems to be stiffer than when I bought it and much stiffer than it seems an ES350 ought to be.
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I've had the stiff ride issue with my 2005 gx470. Took it to three lexus dealers and finally the vehicle is fixed. Hats off to Lexus of Maplewood, St Paul, MN. Their shop foreman persisted and found after several days troubleshooting; a speed sensor was the culprit. My ride is much smoother over speed bumps without the need to cycle through the height adjustment.
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Tried to start my 2007 es350 this morning. While I was attempting to start I was also adjusting my seat backwards and the car failed to start. The gas pedal is stiff and so is the steering wheel. The Start button turns orange when I try to start , if I really press down hard on the brakes the start button turns green but when i press it there is a flickering noise but she doesn't start. What could it be ....battery is about 9 months old?
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Have an 07 gs350 awd and lately the pedal feels stiff and doesn't depress all the way down at startup. Sometimes the steering wheel will go back up as if I have just stopped the car and occasionally I will get the message on the dashboard that I need to press the brake pedal at startup even though I am doing that. Dealership claims they can't duplicate problem and don't know what it could be.
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My car battery was bad and took it to get it exchanged for a new one. Car was without the battery for probably around 6 hours. Came home and installed the new battery and car fired right up but I noticed that it idles at around 400-450 rpm. This is with the ac on or off. AC does not increase the RPM any. But I also noticed that at this RPM, the AC doesnt blow any cold air. As soon as I barely press the throttle and it gets to where it used to idle prior (600-700) the AC blows cold again. The car has never idled this low prior. I took the battery out for around 2 minutes and still the same thing. Ive also read about leaving it disconnected for 30-60 min and see if it works.
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I have a 2007 bottle fed EX 350. I am installing XM into it. SAT/AM button scrolls thru SAT 1 2 3. Display sometimes shows 184 or 255. Occasionally is says Radio Err, It has displayed "radio id" with nothing else, And I managed to get it to display a cryptic looking F W1 4 30 .
NO XM ID
Siriusxm cannot work with my vin.
Cannot tune to ch0 as there is no XM preview going on.
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I have an 09 ES 350 that I decided to put some very nice subwoofers and amp in. When I found out that I needed more power, I took out my spare tire and mounted a second battery in where the tire is supposed to go.
We'll sure enough when I drove the car later the TPMS light came on and started flashing. The system has to be able to read all 5 TPMS sensors. 4 tires and the spare. So when I took the spare tire out, the system thought there was something wrong with that sensor and turned the light on.
So what I did was I took a piece of PVC pipe and 2 PVC caps, drilled a hole in one of the caps, inserted a new TPMS sensor into the cap, then glued everything together.
After it dried I pressurized it to 35 psi, mounted it in my trunk next to the jack, and reset the TPMS system so the light would go off. Now the TPMS system thinks the spare tire is back and there are no more problems.
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Installed aftermarket wheels with thegorilla lock set (20 locks total)? I ask because after installing my wheels, i had slight vibration from 68-75mph (nothing really crazy, but i feel it) and now that i installed the gorilla guard locks for added safety today, i seem to be getting slight vibration at lower speeds (40mph more or less).. could it be due to the wheel guard locks?
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I have a 20th ae, and I figured how to lower the fronts a bit...but the backs, I tried searching but didn't find much......
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How do you adjust the rear height on coilovers? I have the ST coilovers which are comparable to the KW. Do I have to compress the spring and then adjust? I tried to do it with the wrenches given but the whole thing just turns with it. I'm going to lower the front some more and I want to do the rear as well. It is my first set of coilovers on a car and I had someone else do the install.
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Can't say I noticed it on the test drive but when we went to Costco last weekend and drove slowly over the speed bumps it seemed like the rear suspension had no give in it at all. Also noticed it whilst out driving tonight.
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I have a 2011 GLS 2.4 and my steering wheel seems to be... stiff. It varies with each turning revolution I make, as well. When going around a corner, normally the wheel will straighten itself out but it just sticks and you have to fight to get it back. Is it a common problem? I am assuming it is the power steering, could it happen to be anything else?
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This morning I tried to put my car into reverse and I literally had to force it. It didn't grind or anything, no funny sounds that I have heard, just didn't want to go. It also felt like shifting was kind of "stiff" or tight... The car has 76K on it and I've never replaced the clutch, so it might just be due, but it kind of happened out of the blue. After the first incident of the reverse not cooperating, I didn't have any problems for the rest of the day, but shifting in general still kinda felt off... A coworker said that basically means I'll need a new clutch within a few weeks.
Is it just time for a new clutch? Or is there something I can do? And, so I don't get taken for everything, how to present this problem to my mechanic? I trust them, but I want to be as informed as possible when I go in to talk to them.
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My SC430 takes left turns like a boss, even while accelerating into the turn. But right turns always seem to feel a little stiff and awkward, even when not accelerating. I don't really know how to describe it other than that. The back will feel like it bounces or skips a little in a right turn. Is this pretty typical with the SC430 or is there something I should get looked at?
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This happens to me again on a very hot day. The symptom is: all of sudden, the brake pedal becomes stiff. I mean I can only depress down the pedal just a little bit. Then when I want to accelerate, the engine works very hard and speed picks up very slowly. RPM will shoot to 3000. When I remove my foot from the gas pedal, the speed drops very fast. The car slows down much sooner than usual. So my feeling is the brake is dragging the car. The dealer cannot duplicate the problem during short test drive. So what can be wrong? The brake booster was replaced a few months ago. Is it possible it provides too much boost?
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i just got my edelbrock performer rpm intake and my holley 4 barrel installed but it won't run...the only way i can get it to hit and run at all is to floor it like it's flooded...then it'll run for a second but will never rev up and get going like it should...so i watched some vids on youtube for setting mixture on holley's wich i was pretty sure about anyway...turned the idle mixture screws in to snug and then out 1 and a half turns. is this a symptom of a bad vacuum leak or is it something to do with the carb maybe not enough fuel?
it's a holley 4160...list-6619...which is 600 cfm...it's on a 302 with 3 speed.
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About 15x now over the last year, I get in the car, press the brake, the green light comes on and half way through the start-up, the car locks up. Dead, nothing. The brake feels stiff, the key fob will not open the trunk, nor will it lock or unlock the doors, no more green or orange light on the start button. Completely dead.
The last time it happened, I opened the door, closed it again and everything reset. It came back "alive", the navigation system rebooted, the air was off and my clock had been reset. Some days this happens in a matter of a minute or two and other days it takes ten min to reset. Is it a faulty ground? Not sure why it would automatically reset on its own.
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