So I was driving to work this morning and when I'm stopped at a red light my car idled from 800 rpm all the way down to 400 rpm. It literally felt like the car was going to shut off on me.
View 10 RepliesI have been noticing that the idle in my car while stopped at a light will sometimes drop to 500 rpm. This makes the car feel shaky at idle. As soon as I put it into neutral or reverse the rpm jump to 750 rpm. Intermittent issue, what this could be??? Its probably happened 3-4 times in the last 6 weeks. Its annoying.
View 14 RepliesJust bought a L/Certified pre-owned 2013 ES 350. I am shocked at how much the car vibrates and noise increases when stopped at a light or stop sign. I tried a 2015 ES 350 and the same thing occurs!! The dealership technician says everything is operating "to specification". This is a disgrace for such a high-tech, luxury car.
View 14 RepliesSo for the past several months i have noticed something going on. There is a little noise almost like a groaning
- When i am at a Stop light and idle but still in Drive.
- When i shift to N or P it stops and goes away.
Sometimes during this i will notice a little rattle or i feel a little vibration but not much and very hard to even notice if it hadn't been for how sensitive i am never would have even noticed this at all. What this could be ?
I have recently bought a 2007 ES350 that's runs fantastic considering I bought it with high miles from the Lexus dealer (149k). I live in warm climate area and I notice that even though it's not cold out in the mornings my car idles high (at about 2k) for only a few minutes 2-4 tops then starts to drop to normal as it warms up. It hurts me to hear it as I'm not use to this and I worry that it may cause damage to my engine due to oil not being circulated properly yet.
Most importantly, ONLY when cold, I hear a very light knocking sound, kinda like a bad lifter tick, but by the time I get to my daughters school which is about 5-6 miles away it goes away and sounds normal at that point. Had me very concerned as I just bought it less than a few weeks ago and I'm afraid something was wrong and dealer may been able to mask it at my point of purchase and now its starting to rear its ugly head.
This is my first Lexus ES350, not really sure if it's normal or not. I can tell you, when it warms up, I've jumped out of my car and have put me ear to the good and can't hear the tick. Should I be concerned? Is high idle with tick normal if it goes away when it warms up or is it a fair warning something is bad or about to go bad?
1997 lexus ls400 204500 miles, engine light is on code P0340 (cam shaft position sensor bank 1), rough idle at start, once the car warms up it runs ok but loss of power, hesitates, if press more on gas pedal the car jerks. I have replaced both cam shaft position sensors and engine coolant temp sensor but no improvement. What could be the problem?
View 15 Replies2000 Ford ZX2 2.0 ....I've got approx. 79,350 miles on this car. I'm the original owner. The "Service Engine Soon" light came on. I took the the car to an Advanced Auto Parts store, they hooked up their handheld computer to the car and told me "it might be an oxygen sensor or poor fuel octane", he suggested adding an octane booster and see if the light stays off. I did that,but two days later it came back on, the idle seems a little ruff when stopped at a light.
View 5 RepliesOk so I have I 2007 hyundai accent with a weird problem. When the car is in normal operating temperature (180-210) and stopped at a stoplight or stop sign the car will have a fluctuating idle. This problem only happens when the car is at idle and with the heat or air conditioning on. With the heat and the air condition off the car will do it once in a great while. Things I have done so far. Replace the pcv valve clean the egr. To me it sounds like a voltage problem like the car is having too much load at idle. But I am unsure. Took it to a mechanic the other day and he couldn't replicate the problem.
View 4 RepliesWhen stopped at a stop light or sign my car will start to idle at around 1000rpm. This problem is intermittent and does not seem to change with water temperature (ie. being warmed up).
View 1 RepliesI had a strange issue today when I left work and started my car. I got in, put my foot on the brake and pushed the ignition button like normal. The lights all came on for a moment and then everything just went out. The brake felt stuck and no electronics would work and the engine did not start. I couldn't get anything to work, I thought my battery was dead, however when I got out of the car (key in my pocket as usual) the car came back to life. I got in and started and it worked fine.
View 7 RepliesI'm at 55k and over the past 2k-3k miles I have noticed my idle getting rougher and rougher when stopped at a light. I took it to my garage and they cleaned the fuel injection system/throttle body/MAF sensor. When I got the car beck it felt a little better but the idle is still pretty rough.
Compared to my wife's '09 Sienna, it is a lot more noticeable that the car is on. I'm in Florida so the AC is on. When I put the car in neutral, the idle become smooth.
I have an 2008 camry le i4 and every time I'm stopped at a red, the idle is so rough. would the dealer know anything about it to fix it? My car's about 2 months old and has 4000 miles on it
View 14 RepliesThe XM radio in 2008 ES 350 not working. No problem with AM and FM. Dealer says receiver LE 86180-0W032 must be replaced. The dealer said that it was located in the trunk. Where in the trunk is it located and how can I get to it.
View 2 Repliestoday I found out my rear door (right) powered sunshade suddenly quit working. Button does nothing, it won't go up.
View 5 RepliesMy wife's 2009 Corolla S has 107,000 miles. Early on it developed a low idle and vibration while stopped at a light. It was idling about 600 rpm after it warmed up. It never stalled but occasionally vibrated. After doing some research I found some were having success cleaning the throttle body and throttle plate. I did that along with changing the spark plugs. At that time I disconnected the battery to reset the computer. She has put about 2,000 miles on it since then and it never idles below 800 rpm. The vibration hasn't been back either.
I believe it was the throttle body/ plate cleaning and disconnecting the battery that resets the computer that fixed it. The plugs still looked good at 105 K miles, but I had new ones so I put them in. I bought a can of Berryman b12 choke & carb cleaner and sprayed a little on the throttle body and plate and then sprayed some on a rag and wiped down the body and plate. It was quite dirty.
This is my brother's 02 SE. 140k miles. 4cyl. He claims that the car is beginning to idle rough when he is stopped at a stop light and the AC is on. If i replace the spark plugs should that do it? I'm pretty sure it doesn't have spark plug wires cus that's what my dealer parts dept said. Motor mounts were replaced around 70k if that matters. The vibration is directly related to the AC being on.
I am also going to replace the serp. belt because there's a belt squeak when the motor is cold.
I'm new to owning an ISF. I purchased it almost two months ago and couldn't be more happy with it. I know after owning a car you will start to notice more and more about the car. About a month into owning the car I was on my way to work and I stopped at a light. I noticed that there was a very slight shutter at idle. No where near the shutter if it was missing on a spark plug. After that day it has drawn my attention whenever I stop.
My question is is this normal? I know having a V8 in the car there is going to be some vibration. It's a 2009 with 29k.
So I got my 2010 ISF last year around this time.... I never noticed anything a possible heat problem... So basically I've noticed that when ever I stop at red lights or at idle, my heat turns cold?
Temp is at high and the AC light is off too... When ever I drive it warms up again and works like a champ... But at idle or stopped it's completely cold....
It's scaring me.... My car is certified still I believe, this problem should be covered since it's internal?
2011 accent gs. We purchased the car brand new and it currently has roughly 32k miles on it. About a month ago the car started to misfire at an idle (in park and in gear stopped at a light, etc.). At this time, I purchased a new air filter, and a new set of autolite platinum plugs. Roughly 3 weeks later it started misfiring again. After a few internet searches it seemed as though some people don't like autolite platinum plugs. At this point I purchased a fresh set of NGK iridium ix plugs and figured that'd be the end of it. I test drove the car for almost an hour myself (the same night I repaired it) with no issue. On my wife's commute the very next morning it acted up again.
We took it to the dealer this morning, and I honestly don't believe what they're telling me. They are insisting the problem is with spark plugs. They say that the manufacturer recommends copper plugs only, and that would be step 1 of their diagnosis/repair which they want $130 for. At this point I declined their service, and they'll let me put copper plugs back in. They said that if it continues to act up to bring it back in after that. Ah yes, and during this whole time there has never been a check engine light.
I have 2007 mica LS, the key fob and trunk button on dash stopped working the trunk. The button inside the trunk will close it but i have to use the key to open it. I have taken battery post off and checked fuses, but not sure if I checked the correct one.
View 2 RepliesI have a couple of buttons on the ML audio controls that recently stopped lighting up. What all would be involved in getting the lights working again? I assume they are LED and it is much more complex than replacing a couple of burned out bulbs, but is this a DIY type thing or do I need to send off to United Radio or similar? See pics.
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