I dimmed my gauges to 1/4 brightness and went for a drive at night. When applying brakes or speeding from a stop...the needles have a slight pulsing effect. LS460 ....
View 14 RepliesSo having done a single track day, I feel like my rotors must have warped, as there is now a slight vibration when applying the brakes. This is very surprising as I don't do anything out of the ordinary, and tried to use brakes intelligently, including a proper cool down lap and so on. Is this normal? What are my options for making life better? Is there some set of rotors I should get that wouldn't be prone to warping like this? Is it a question of pads?
View 18 RepliesSo sometimes (only sometimes, of course) when I step on the brakes, I get a slight vibration of the steering wheel. Doesn't seem to make a difference if it's gentle or not-so-gentle braking. Brakes cold or warm doesn't make a difference either. Nor does traveling in a straight line or not at that moment.
My understanding is that "warped" brake rotors are mostly a myth these days, especially for our beefy/hefty rotors. The car did not used to do this.
Rotors are "OEM slotted" from ECS, pads are Porterfield R4-S. All are well within tolerances. I know it's not an out-of-balance wheel, because wheels were swapped front to back not too long ago and there was no change.
So what else ought I check out? Tie rods/ends? Ball joints? I don't know all that much about this aspect of stuff..
This summer, my steering rack failed, and I had it replaced with a remanufacutured steering rack. All went well, until a few weeks ago I started feeling a pulsing effect when turning, usually when turning right. On a few occasions, the shaking has become severe. It is a back-and-forth effect, about three times a second. It is bad enough that it has triggered a power steering error on two occasions. I took it to the garage who installed the rack, asking them to have a look at it, and they found nothing. Because the effect is regular, I am assuming that I am feeling the 12V power assist malfunctioning or reacting to faulty input.
View 11 RepliesAt low speed braking or before it comes to a full stop. I'm guessing the ABS but would like a 2nd opinion from others. If it's the ABS, is the fix something that can be done DIY?
View 5 RepliesI have a Santa Fe 2010 2.4 awd 6AT with 20000km, I live in Ushuaia, Argentina, here the use of salt is normal in winter (a lot of salt). I have one winter and the second is coming with this SUV. Today I was in a road at 120km/h (75mph) and I had to apply brakes. In that moment I noted a little vibration on the steering wheel. After release brake pedal, the vibration disappeared. I checked again with same results, is been posible that my brake discs could be damaged or something is wrong with the brake system? I didn't have any light of malfunction. What is the normal life of brakes discs and pads in a santa fe with normal use?
View 13 RepliesI have a 2007 ranger and when applying the brakes i get a vibration, I think it may be in the rear of the truck but it is hard to tell.
View 2 RepliesI have 04 rx330 with 70 k miles. Lately I started to feel grinding sensation and pulsation on applying the brakes initially it is fine then it will be felt specially when the car comes to near stop
A mechanic looked at it and said bad rotor I replaced with new rotors and pads still doing the same thing, as I inspected the old rotors and pads there was no visible defects.
My drivers seat feels like it moves slightly after applying the brakes and then back on the gas like when you almost come to a full stop. The car is CPO with 22k and new to me so I can't say how long it's been happening. I feel like I remember a similar problem and TSB with the 2 gen IS but I'm not sure. I'm just trying to get some info before taking it to the dealer.
View 14 RepliesSo when I bought my '11 460L I noticed that along the top portion of the steering wheel (the lacquered portion) there is a fair amount of bumpiness. Basically it seems like the clear coat didn't cure correctly. It's not a big deal and ultimately I can live with it. However, since it does seem like a defect in the way the steering wheel was made I brought it up to the service adviser earlier today when I was dropping the car off for service. His immediate response was that the previous owner drove the car with a ring and that what I was feeling were indentations made by the ring.
While I can understand that a scratch or a chip may result from a ring riding on or banging against the wood, I find it very difficult to believe that it would actually cause waviness in the actual finish. This, of course, is beside the point that what I felt were more of protrusions rather than indentations.
So my question to you is for those who drive your cars with rings and such, have you seen those rings have any effect on the lacquered portions of your steering wheel. I didn't push the issue any further aside from the adviser who is the assistant manager saying that he will run it by the primary service manager. But I am not sure I want to let this one slide unless it really is an issue caused by the driver.
My car is making this noise from the driver's front wheel when applying the brakes and EVEN CLUELESS AND SURPRISINGLY the noise shows up when cruising at low speed (haven't try freeway speed yet) without stepping on the brakes.
This just happened to me tonight, car is around 10,000 miles, I'm going to take it into the dealer to see what the hell is with Lexus. I suspect it might be the rotors and built in brake dusts, I just don't know, but the noise is unusual enough to be concern about.
I doubt it's the built in brake dusts because previously I've not washed my car/ wheel for a longer period of time, but I'm not sure. Could it just be that my rotor is done?
I know the front brakes need a replacement soon, but it shouldn't be my brakes since the noise still shows up even when I don't step on the brake pedal, unless the car brakes for me itself......
I cant take it into the dealer until weekend, hopefully it's safe to drive around within the next 2 days.
This is a lengthy explanation. Car has 135K on it currently. Had the transmission flushed and water pump replaced about 5K miles or so ago. The Lexus trio of lights came on about 2K miles later and I noticed a loss of power. It's like I'm cruising along and the sensation is that of a manual transmission car being in 5th gear at 20 and punching it; that lack of power that borders on the car dying but it never does. It just sputters along a little and then all is fine. No abrupt shifts, just like it's in too high of a gear and I've caught it off guard with my throttle request.
Had the codes checked, multiple misfires detected. Great, so I take it to the mechanic I use and they hooked it up to the computer and basically I need a tuneup, all the plugs and wires and boots need to be replaced. I don't know how many horsepower I was down but it was definitely noticeable and the idle would bounce between 750 and 1K RPM without fail. I couldn't leave it with them all day that day as I had a job a couple hours away and figured it had been fine up to then and it would be ok for four more hours. Wrong. About an hour into my trip, the check engine light, which was on, began blinking, which I was told by the mechanic is a bad sign and that something is seriously wrong. Power is way down, the engine is obviously suffering, it's rough and choppy, probably half power, couldn't go more than 30mph.
And it was accompanied by this pulsing noise in the rear of the car, beneath the rear seat If I had to guess a location. It wasn't a grinding noise, more whiney but not loud and it was in a constant rhythm. I pulled over immediately and tried to make arrangements for transportation. There wasn't a rental car place in the town I pulled over in, but there was a place the next town up. I get in the car and start it up and the trio of lights are still on but the check engine is not blinking and the pulsing is gone as is the car struggling to breathe. It's not great, but it's back to the way it was before and highway speeds are possible, etc. When I got back, I had the tune up and the catalytic converter and engine manifold gaskets replaced. It runs like a dream. My question is; what could make it run so terribly and cause that pulsing sound and vibration, that would somehow disappear by stopping and starting the car?
I just purchased a LS 460 2007, 64k miles. The brake when apply squeal, but not all the time when the break is applied. 5 times out of 10 times when you apply the break when driving the car for more than 20 minutes it start to squeal. It does not squeal when you first drive in the morning, but after driving more than 20 minutes, when you apply the brake - it will squeal on and off during various application of the break. Does the LS460 have brake indicator that would squeal all the time when you need new break? I am not sure what the sign that LS460 would need new break and rotor.....
View 4 RepliesI've got about 27k on my GTI, and have just noticed some faint, but odd steering / power assist issues.
Relevant mods - koni coils. Have had these for about 15k, recently raised for winter travel, then lowered back to 24.25 ftg. Conti DWS with about 3k on them.
Anyway, other day (while in brief winter height) at parking lot speed, slight turn, I noticed a very faint pulsing through steering wheel. Was not there minutes later.
Lowered car back, drove for a few days, nothing unusual.
Drove from SF > LA yesterday and had an odd feeling at speed on freeway. It was like a bit of resistance turning the wheel off center. Almost like there is a center detent, which i have never noticed before. Once off center, all feels normal. It was super windy out and thought that was causing this, but continued throughout drive.
I don't think that this is the tires, it's more mechanical than that.
My 2000 Lexus GS 300 has done the following three times when I've been inching forward by lightening on the brake (not touching the gas pedal): slight engine surge moves the car forward and the brakes don't work. I have to throw the car into "Park" to stop. Had it checked each time (twice by my local shop and once by the dealer) and they find nothing amiss. These three incidents have occurred several weeks apart, during cold weather. My car has 98,000 miles on it and has been very well maintained.
View 5 RepliesOur gen 1 has developed a (currently minor) noise issue when braking. I'd like to sort it out before it becomes serious.
The brakes are still strong, and the regenerative system appears to be working. When the brakes are applied (even gently) there is a pulsing raspy sound, seems like it is coming from the front, driver's side. It is more rapid at higher speeds, and louder during rapid deceleration. I guess I'd call it 'grinding', although this is much less unpleasant than the classic 'grinding brakes' I've heard on other cars.
In any other car I would figure a warped rotor or worn out brake pad. But I had imagined that the regenerative system handled light braking, and conventional brakes took over beyond a certain threshold. Now I'm hoping they work in tandem, even on gentle braking and this is just a boring, simple pad issue.
The front brakes are pulsing (slightly, enough to spill my coffee when they line up together) with each rotation. I can't tell if they're warped, or if they have a rough patch on each disc.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2003 Camry LE 4cly. Approx 150k miles. Car has been a good Camry. About 6 months ago it started to shudder when applying brakes. At first I thought rotors, but it seemed speed dependent. When over 40 it happens more often and more strongly. After the car gets below 10 to 20 the shudder ceases. Front pads are in reasonable shape. Rotating tires does not affect the shudder. Has never effected handling of vehicle. Brakes work without fail, just shudder in front end and steering wheel. I tried flushing the system, had not done that previously. Fluid was yellow, but not black. After the flush, the system seemed to shudder less, but still have the intermittent shudder. There are no error code for ABS, and the light is not on and does not come on.
View 5 RepliesI have a strange problem, my boost guage needle is jumping like crazy, there is no vacuum leak and the max boost i get is 0.5 bar, when the guage needle is not jumping I get a boost of 1.4 bar. I have mechanical boost control.
97' passat B5 1.8T AEB with FMIC,K04-15,2.75",chip (that was made for the original k03).
Was on my way to my girlfriend's house and decided to do a few pulls. Noticed afterwards my rpm gauge was stuck at 6k rpms and wouldn't go any lower. The car was running fine and I was in 6th gear just cruising at 55mph. Did another pull and after that it was stuck at 8k and if I downshifted the needle would max out at the 6 o'clock position. When I arrived I turned my car off to see if it would reset itself and it got stuck at 7k rpm.
View 15 RepliesI recently had the radiator on my car replaced and wen I got it back the temperature and gas gauge needles are both blown past the HOT sign and past the full sign on my gas gauge and is sitting under the little black piece under the the cold side and under the empty side. it was obviously messed with and completely turned around but why is it like this? will it reset itself or should I take i.e., back to the mechanic to have it fixed by him?
2000 buick park avenue....