This just recently started happening that after a few minutes at idle in park the engine turns off. I did install a DBALL remote start last fall but thats runs until the door is opened but the car wasn't started with the remote nor the door opened.
View 5 RepliesWell, i have almost had it with this car. When the car is idling in park... ti sounds like the transmission is chattering,... then, once i put it in gear it gets louder. like a medium fast "clinking" noise. ALSO, when rolling at a slow speed and i barely hit the gas the transmission (or maybe engine) makes a zipping chattery noise.
View 2 RepliesFor last couple of days the car is making a Thump sound when the engine turns over. then it gone- single thump sound....It only happens in the morning if the car is sitting in the garage overnight. I do not hear it if i park the car at work after 8 hours does not make the same sound.
I also feel it takes a bit tad longer to start the car(again only in the morning)- i thought it was the battery but the battery has been replaced 2 years ago.
i will try to record the sound tomorrow and post it. the car is fine once started no funny sounds or anything. Its a 2011 with 71k miles on it.
Engine idling on D and idling on N/P. Mine sometimes runs at 600, sometimes at 650. When I steer, rpm should go higher but it doesn't go.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2007 GS 350 AWD and growing frustrated with some of its 'issues'. I have had the wheels replaced b/c they coating was 'bubbling' (the local dealer said this was normal...50,000 miles later this is happening again). At 60,000 miles to have frozen brake calipers replaced...never had this happen on any other vehicles, to include domestics with well over 100,000 miles, much less two of them freeze. A cracked exhaust, not to mentioned multiples recalls on a vehicle that has not even reached 75,000 miles. The engine has funny idling issues at low RPM's and the VSC and Check Engine lights came on list night but have since extinguished.
View 11 RepliesMy 2010 ES350 now has about 52K miles. Recently, it has developed a vibration in the steel wheel when the engine is idle. It used to be very smooth. I wonder what has caused the vibration.
View 8 RepliesWell all is ok now but I am not one to ignore or forget a symptom. After a long drive into the city over Christmas I pulled in to park at my destination. It was idling rough when I stopped. Vibration my be a better adjective but not too bad. It did not feel like ignition etc, not MIL on and putting it in Part did not change it. I shut it off and went inside for the festivities. Started it for the drive back and all was ok.
Whether some bad gas with water got in or something else I don't know as it as above freezing but I got thinking about this dam harmonic balancer pulley may have had on the 3.3L go. I have seen some post in in 2006 as well with this engine in other models. I got some 47L of quality Shell gas later on as well for the drive home days later. Still no issues but... IT HAPPENED AND I DON'T FORGET so I am thinking about it.
Is this a major problem on SF's some went as early as 30k from the owers. I had no other indicators and I doubt there is going to be much to see in the space with a light.
Since we purchased the car we've been having problems with the transmission or acceleration, when the car is shifting from park to drive engine speed RPM goes up and it is difficult to stop the car from driving. The dealer does not know what to do and the factory support is useless.
View 14 RepliesI've had my '05 3.0l TDi since last November and I've noticed a few times that when the engine is hot and its idling in park or neutral after a few seconds it can develop a bit of vibration. Apply some revs, even just a few, and it goes away. Let it idle again and it will come back. Stop the engine for a few minutes start again and its fine for a couple of months and then it'll pop up again. Its not some slight vibration, it s a proper big shudder. It reminds me of my '76 Land Rover and very unlike a rock solid Phaeton!
View 2 RepliesGot 10 gal. gas and pulled into drive-thru; idling in park, the engine stuttered once, then died. First retry it started, ran rough for 1 second and died; second retry i tapped repeatedly on gas and it ran VERY rough for 1 second and died, never to start again. It turns over fine. Where the fuel filter is to test pressure? BTW, it has nearly half million miles on it! 473k+
View 5 RepliesMy Chevy Venture 2003 approx 120 thousand miles is idling high at times. It will drive fast. I can feel it speeding up even when I am not pushing on the gas. When I put the car in reverse it flys backward (I have to keep my foot on the break to back up at a safe speed) and then when I put the car in park the engine is VERY loud. Again, this does not happen all the time. Usually when I drive it over ten miles. I thought it might have something to do with the AC, but I played around with that (driving with and without the AC) and that did not factor in it.
I took it to my own personal mechanic and he couldn't find anything wrong with it. I then took it to a dealership and they said they couldn't find anything wrong with after doing their hundred dollars worth of diagnostics and said they needed it to actually be doing it..what they called a hard fail...for them to know what was going on. . They drove the car for quite some time and nothing happened. I drove it all this pass weekend and nothing happened. It might go a week or so without doing it. Thenn it does it. Usually I can turn the car off and restart it and it will be back to normal. The check engine light is NOT on. Any clue as to what might be going on?
2007 LS460. On a couple of occasions recently, my transmission would not come out of park. I shut the engine down and restarted and it worked fine. Is this a sign of bad things to come?
View 9 RepliesI purchased a 2011 ES350 today with 38k miles. I didn't notice it at the time of purchase, but the moment I put it into drive with my foot on the brake (idling), the passenger seat does a little dance. It's not terrible, and doesn't shake much while driving, but I would much rather it not be there because it's taking away from the experience of driving this beautiful luxury car.
On a different note, I had a 1999 ES300 that I recently gave to my 85yr old grandpa. The car now has 115k miles on it...it does not shake, and it drives like a dream.
I see where I can shut it off on navigation screen, but buzzing sound still goes off and picture lights up on speedometer on dash.
Since snow started falling this week when I drive the park assist just randomly goes off its annoying having buzzing sound just go off not shut off.
I have a 2008 es350 with 106k miles and I've been trying to fix vibration issue for a few months now. The car vibrates while in park with and without the AC power on, but its worse with the AC on. The vibration was felt in the sterring wheel and wasnt that bad just enough to be annoying. So I researched and did a few thing such as spark plugs change, mass air flow cleaning, new air filter, a few bottles of fuel injection cleaner but nothing improved the vibrations. In fact I think it got worse. So after looking online I ran across a post about vibrations and motor mounts. This is the post I found. [URL] ....
"Most likely, one of the engine mounts are 'torqued'. You can try and neutralize the mounts. Loosen the through bolts of all mounts several (4-5) turns. Then start the car, and drive back and forth several feet (using quick taps on the gas and not just idling) over and over, and let it rest at idle a few seconds before turning off the engine. Now tighten all mounts being careful not to rock the motor, and don't pry or push anything to reach the bolts! (This is where swivels co*me in handy)"
I went ahead and did it on my es and wife's 2010 rx350. It took about 30-40 minutes but I took several breaks. Here are a few pic these are from the RX but the process is almost the same ones.
Top of engine bay on the passanger side this mount is easy youll need a 14 mm wrench. I noticed the bolts here where very tight when i loosened them but when re tightened the bolts it when in very easily.
This the drivers side you'll need a 19 mm wrench. Just turn the wheel all the way to the right to get access.
This one is right behind the radiator in the front middle of the engine. Its a17 mm
This is on the passenger side behind the wheel. It just like the one on the drivers side. Its a 19mm
This one I believe is only on the rx but I didn't look on the es. I could not get to the through bolt so i just loosen the two 17mm bolts.
Once all of the bolts were lose I turned on the car and moved/drove it 2-4 feet in drive several time in the drive way. Then I stepped on the brake pedal hard while in drive and gave some gas nothing crazy maybe up to 3k rpm and for second or 2. I did the same in reverse. After that I put it in drive and felt for vibrations if I still felt something i would repeat until the vibrations stopped. Once they stopped I didn't put the car in park, I turn off the car while in drive and engaged the emergency brake. At this point i re-torqued all the bolts without move anything. Now both the RX and ES and very smooth while stopped while in drive. This a free fix and it worked great.
My preowned ES came with a remote starter. It works great, however when the vehicle is started using the he remote, as soon as I open the door, the car turns off and I need to restart it. The model I have is Viper 5901. In the manual it says that if I use the Viper remote to unlock the doors, it should not turn the engine off.
View 3 RepliesAFS Flashing and there is a clunk in the right rear on turns and it bottoms out over speed bumps . According to service manual and internet search, this combo may be a problem with the rear height control sensor sub assembly or rear No. 2 suspension arm or other suspension issue. AFS flashes because the car height changes affecting the headlight adjustment leading to AFS flash.
Dealer says "Yes sensor is mounted to the control arm and if it's broken in half, it would clunk and cause afs light to flash."
I just recently traded in my '07 SWB for an '11 LWB (75k miles) and am loving the engine (sans hesitation) and ride etc. etc.
The only thing that's been really bugging me is that during cornering, the body seems to twist and "wind up", and as it does this, something(s) under the body moves and creaks/pops noisily. Then as I straighten the car out or turn the opposite direction, whatever had moved settles back out and I get more creaking/popping.
I thought it might be back door seals or door latch (based on that being a typical german car issue/solution) so I treated the seals and lubricated the latches, but the sounds didn't change at all. I would say, as a guess (tracking down noises can be super deceiving), the sounds seem to be coming from below the floor pan. I also wouldn't say the issue changes with outdoor temperature.
I finally traded in my car and picked up a black 2010 ES 350, CPO, with 33k miles. However, i feel a vibration inside the vehicle while the car is idling (even when it is fully warmed up) and i was wondering if this is normal on these models? I have owned a is250, and ls460 and I didn't really notice anything like it. It almost feels like my ex's toyota camry when idling (not as loud of course). Is there a recall that fixes it? or is this normal with FWD vehicles?
View 11 RepliesI have a 2009 with 45,000 miles. It has been idling goofy for a while. Last winter when it was cold it the engine when first started would jump around between 200 - 800rpm when idling. I went and had the fuel system cleaned. It wasn't noticeable when it was warm out and it did not jump around as dramatically on cold starts. Lately it started bouncing on every start from 400rpm-800rpm. It drives fine, just idles bouncy. The other night it lost power while driving. The engine was running but when the accelerator was pushed it would not speed up. It was limping along at 20mph and the engine light on the dash turned on. After sitting for little bit, the engine light was off and drove normally again. I have an apt. for the dealer to look at it next week, but of course I will not be able to recreate the event and there are no error codes.
View 1 RepliesWhen hitting the brakes, the 3rd tail light turns off and on in the middle portion of the reflector. The panel is removed from the inside of the car, as the truck has metal surrounding the top area.
How do you remove the 3rd tail light to check for loose connections or to replace the bulb? 2011 ES350...