1997 lexus ls400 204500 miles, engine light is on code P0340 (cam shaft position sensor bank 1), rough idle at start, once the car warms up it runs ok but loss of power, hesitates, if press more on gas pedal the car jerks. I have replaced both cam shaft position sensors and engine coolant temp sensor but no improvement. What could be the problem?
View 15 RepliesMy 96 toyota celica check engine light is on and I get the code P0340. Also I can't seem to get my reverse light to work what could be the problem.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2002 f150 4.2 code p0340, ran rough, replaced cam sensor. drove after replacing and it runs fine now, code and service engine light comes on after restarting. from what i have read could this be a wiring problem?
View 4 Replies1996 Ford Explorer on a small island with no mechanics. Vehicle does less than 100 miles per year, never over 20 mph. The check engine light came on and the code reader says it's a problem with the Camshaft Position Sensor. The vehicle runs fine, just as it did before the check engine light came on. I'm tempted to put some electrical tape over the check engine light and keep driving.
View 2 RepliesDriving home from work this evening and engine light lights up, also car started to idle very rough.... long story short got the car home and checked with vag com... 2 engine codes
000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 001 - - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 86567 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2012.12.31
Time: 14:26:57
[Code] .....
After looking around online found out it could be a variety of reasons... gonna change spark plugs tomorrow hoping that's the problem... next cheapest fix would be the ignition coils... I'm just hoping its not internal, like piston or rings.
It's a 2007 Passat Wolfsburg 2.0T.... just went over the 53k mark.
I own a 2001 BMW 325i. I bought it in 2011, it was in excellent condition, except for a small oil leak. I fixed the leak and then everything started happening. I've replaced so many things in this car that I've actually put more in to it then what I paid for it. This last issue was a rough idle and the scanner was showing me the code for a misfire. I took it in to the mechanic, he found that it was the first injector, replaced it, the night I picked it up it was still doing the same thing...engine light popped on. I brought it back the next day, they kept it for over a week, running test after test, finally they did an internal survey and found that the first cylinder is damaged and the shop has condemned the engine. My question is this: Is there no way to repair a cylinder? How or why does this happen and how much longer can I drive the car before it craps out on me. So far, it is rough when it's cold..but once it warms up it rides just fine. Engine light comes on and then goes off.
View 2 RepliesI recently purchased an 06 f150 fx4 5.4L with 60K miles. Just recently my check engine light came on and I've noticed a slight rough idle in park. I took it to autozone and the code read P0422 evap emission leak. Bought a new fuel cap but didn't work... EGR valve?
View 2 RepliesI recently purchased a Ford pickup. I bought a 2004 F-150 with the 5.4L 3V engine. I have only driven it for about 300 miles so far and am having problems. The engine has 200,000 miles on it. I have read several posts on here about the cam phasers which I believe that I may have some issues with. The engine will run good when cold, on the road, etc. The engine does have a slight ticking after it warms up (cam phasers?). When I come to a stop after the engine is operating temperature, the engine will start to miss and shudder and all 4 above codes come active and are also pending (8 codes in total).
All 4 codes are logged at the same time. I have replaced both cam position sensors, both sensor ends and terminals for cam position sensors, checked wiring around rear of engine (does not appear to be rubbed through), all plugs were replaced, and all COP boots are good. Is there anything that can cause these codes that may not be the actual cam position sensors, ie. VTC, COPs, cam phasers? What pins the cam position sensors come to on the ECU (so I can ohm the entire wire harness)?
Also, if the engine is missing with the codes active and I rev the engine up it will come back to idle and run great. The engine never dies out, just runs horribly. I have also unplugged each sensor with the engine running which has no effect on the way it runs.
I recently purchased my first Ford pickup. I bought a 2006 F-150 with the 5.4L 3V engine. I have only driven it for about 300 miles so far and am having problems. The engine has 146,000 miles on it. I have read several posts on here about the cam phasers which I believe that I may have some issues with. The engine will run well when cold, on the road, etc. The engine does have a slight ticking after it warms up (cam phasers?). When I come to a stop after the engine is operating temperature, the engine will start to miss and shudder and all 4 above codes come active and are also pending (8 codes in total).
All 4 codes are logged at the same time. I have replaced both cam position sensors, both sensor ends and terminals for cam position sensors, checked wiring around the rear of engine (does not appear to be rubbed through), all plugs were replaced, and all COP boots are good. Is there anything that can cause these codes that may not be the actual cam position sensors, ie. VTC, COPs, cam phasers? What pins the cam position sensors come on the ECU (so I can ohm the entire wire harness)?
Also, if the engine is missing with the codes active and I rev the engine up it will come back to idle and run great. The engine never dies out, just runs horribly. I have also unplugged each sensor with the engine running which has no effect on the way it runs.
I have been experiencing some issues with my '06 rio5 (same engine as your hyundais). this forum is way more active than the kia forums, so figured id give it a shot here.
I am experiencing a rough idle at start up while the car is low on fuel (<1/4 tank). it idles rough for a few seconds, the check engine light flashes a bit, and then it runs fine.
The car is an '06 rio5 with approx 19k miles on it, five speed manual. Also, sometimes after refueling and it will just shut off while waiting at an intersection. Not sure whether these two issues are related, but thought i would mention it just in case they were.
P0340 code appeared on my camry 07 said cam shaft position sensor was bad what other things can be the problem ? Also I just replaced alternator because car wouldn't start with out getting jumped once I replaced alternator it started up good for a couple of days then when I wanted to start it up it would crank then stop and crank again till it would turn on also car stereo would turn off while running and dashboard gauges would go off and would make the gauges go Dow to zero then it would go back to normal while still driving.
View 1 Replies2002 Santa Fe 2.4L Automatic. Driving on the freeway when it lost power. Couldn't go over 65 even with the accelerator all the way down, even slower on uphill climbs. The engine wouldn't rev higher than around 3000rpms.
I figured it sounded like a loss of power due to weak fuel pump. I replaced it as well as the fuel filter, and verified it was pumping. Put the car together, and still the same loss of power. Drove home and parked it, but next morning it won't run at all. It cranks all day long but doesn't fire.
So far, I have made the following repairs and checks:
-Verified catalytic converter was clear and not plugged
-Verified fuel pressure
-Checked spark plugs - all are good and gaped properly
-Replaced crank position sensor (With the code, I thought this would solve it)
-Verified timing belt and cam belt in time - both have also been changed recently
-Checked all relays and fuses
-Battery and alternator are good - both are new
I still have a crank no start issue, and I'm going crazy taking things apart and putting them back together only to have this car not fire.
I have an '09 LS SWB AWD with 86k miles on it. A few days ago the check engine light came on with a message on the dash for me to check the VSC system. The next day the check engine light and VSC warning went away on their own. A day after that they came back on. I pulled the ODB codes and got the following:
P0012 - "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded Bank 1
I took it to my local Lexus dealership and they determined that my VVT-i motor assembly needed replacing. Total cost would be $1,222. Apparently this part regulate the camshaft for variable valve timing. I asked if I should notice a performance dropoff since it's related to valve timing but they said no. They said I wouldn't make it worse by driving it so I took my car back and they would order the part for me.
The next day the check engine light and VSC warning went away on their own again and have not come back on for 3 days now. I don't understand why the warning and check engine lights keep going off on their own if this motor assembly needs replacing. Once again it has been 3 days now and no lights have come on.
I am the proud owner of a 2008 LS600hl with 141,000 miles. The check engine light is now on permanently and the estimated repair charge from my lexus dealership is outrageously expensive. Here is the official diagnosis and recommendation.
"Code P1083 - HCAC Valve Stuck Open in Bank 2 .
Recommend Replacing Y- Pipe With HC Adsorber .
Possibly May Need Exhaust 2 Sensors.
04 trailblazer, 4.2. Running rough and SES light on. Had codes pulled and showed p0340 (CMP sensor circuit malfunction) and p0300 (Multiple engine misfire detected). Replaced the CMP sensor and left negative battery cable unhooked for 20 minutes or so to clear the codes. Upon start up no more SES light and idle was slightly better. Within seconds it SES was back and it is again running poorly. Cruise control is no longer functional as well.
View 7 RepliesI have 07 350 and my check engine light is on, i had it scanned and they told me that the code is BP0013 and bank 1 Cam position sensor is bad. What that code means and where is that sensor located???
View 9 RepliesWas cruising on the highway when the check engine light up. Scanned with a Techstream cable and got 2 codes: P0549 and P1083 (Engine and ETC). Just got a blown fuse yesterday, could it be related to a short ? Checked all fuses driver and passenger, didn't find another blown fuse (didn't checked in the trunk yet). LS600hl
View 14 RepliesI have the error code P0340 and have changed both camshaft positioner sensors, cleaned the air sensor and throttle body and still the engine stalls. I can accelerate at 40, 50, 60mph and it jerks violently. I tried the "locking it in third" trick but it still jerks. Today I unplugged the left cam sensor and the truck idles @ 400rpms, does not stall, and pretty much drives great! Hook it back up and crank it, within 10-15 seconds it stalls. I plan to check the wiring....
View 14 RepliesOK. I'm getting a P301 code on the OBD in my 2000 Expedition (5.4 L). Already replaced plugs x 8, coils x 8, & fuel injectors. Still have rough idle when it starts up, usually for a few minutes & then it's mostly OK. Maybe a small rumble now & then when @ a red light, etc. Replacing fuel filter & all 4 o2 sensors tomorrow.
View 9 Replies02 Santa Fe 2.4L/ automatic/2 WD. I replaced the fuel filter (only) and have had a nightmare ever since. It takes multiple tries to start, running a little longer each time. When it will finally stay running, only the most delicate of throttle feathering will allow any RPM's to be built up. Any attempt to do otherwise will result is sputtering, bucking and other unhealthy behaviors until the throttle is closed. It also gives off the smell of running rich.
I borrowed a scan tool and got P0136 and P0141, which I expect since the O2 sensor wiring was cut in two by the heat shield shortly after my daughter bout the vehicle. It also is giving me the P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit code. I had replaced the CMPS and its connector a couple of month ago. I replaced the sensor again to no avail. I have checked the Orange/Black wire from the connector to the ECM and it reads 0 ohms. I get battery voltage at the connector on the Blue supply wire but only get 1.86 to 2.0V when I check the signal with the engine running.
Having trouble with my '00 Jetta 2.0 A/T w/ 98K miles. Had the water pump replaced @ a year ago (for the 2nd time, the 1st replacement died after <15K miles.) The car has had issues with rough idle when started, especially with a cold engine, since before the 2nd water pump. I've replaced the coil pack, thermostat, and coolant temperature sensor in the recent past in addition to the water pump & timing belt.
The gas mileage sucks, and when it's idling rough it doesn't "idle up", & will stall if the gas pedal is pressed with 30 secs. of starting. Otherwise it seems to run fine. The coolant temp. sensor was replaced after a CEL indicating it was bad. The CEL went off after it was replaced, but it's now throwing a P1296 Cooling System Malfunction. I have noticed the temperature gauge fluctuates instead of staying around the "middle" since the 2nd water pump replacement, and will run "colder" in colder weather. Since spring is here, the temp. gauge stays around "normal", or the middle.
Some research online says thermostat OR coolant temperature sensor. Since the gauge registers normal now, I'm leaning towards a bad temp. sensor...?
Does the hard start/rough idle and the cooling system malfunction CEL could be related?