Lexus LS 2007+ :: Dash Only Displays The Pressure Reading By Wheel
Nov 23, 2010
I purchased a second set of rims and tire pressure sensors from the Tire Rack for snow tires on my 460. Since installation, the tire pressure display on the dash only displays the pressure reading by wheel if I stand still long enough before driving. If I do not wait long enough before driving, the pressure will not be displayed and will ultimately display the tire warning symbol. My first thought is the Tire Rack sold me the wrong sensors, but they insist the Pacific 315 MHZ sensor they sold me is the same as Lexus uses.
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Which tire each of the tire pressure readings on the dash belong to? I have a 2007 LS460 and apparently had a nail in a tire that was slowly losing air. It took a bit of extra time to test each tire to discover the culprit. The dash displays tire pressure readings (1-5 including the spare) for each tire's PSI. Which one is the correlating tire for each reading (1-5). I checked the manual and it was not clear which reading position went to which tire.
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I have a 2010 LS460L AWD with the OEM wheels. Periodically, one or two of my tires experience slow PSI drops. The Firestone Auto Center attributes the tire pressure loss to wheel corrosion where the tire bead meets the wheel. After the Auto Center cleans the wheel, the tire pressure holds. However, the problem recurs periodically. It is not isolated to one wheel...
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I placed my key in ignition and tried to start it just cranks over. Dash displays the triangle with arrow around it. I thought i remember reading some where a while back about that meaning something to do with key immob.? but now my R is out of omission.
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We're on a road trip and the alarm tone goes off. The dash displays the brake warning and the red triangle (and the touchscreen has a car outline with an ! in the upper left). Also, the cruise control no longer operates. We return to El Paso and the dealer utilizes several hours and two diagnostics to tell us the Hybrid ECU needs to be replaced. Unfortunately, they can't get our Prius back to us until Monday, the day we are supposed to be back home starting work the next day.
We plan to call the other dealership in town in the morning. But is it safe to drive our Prius in this state? Can a regular garage make the repair? My father-in-law, an automotive repair professional back in Missouri, says that he isn't surprised if an ECU needs to be shipped from a Toyota distribution center since the part isn't regularly kept in stock by an auto repair shop.
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I have a 2001 Merc. Grand Marquis with a digital dash. The problem I am having is that the speedo displays 0 intermittently. What may be causing this? The cruise control will still work if I set it when the speed is showing.
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I thought nothing of the ESP light when I was driving home since it just snowed another foot and it was slippery. But, just got home and when I turned the car off I noticed the displays are staying illuminated with the keys out and doors shut. Not the center info display in red the small ones to the sides .. One is the odo/km display. Are these related ? I disconnected the battery since I have to sleep and don't want to wake up to a dead battery.
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I recently purchased a 2009 LS 460, and I was wondering is their anyway to remove the display of the odometer reading for the entire mileage on the car?
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I haven't been able to find the solution to change C temp readings to F on my 2009 ES350. The car is Canadian and I'm in the US and although it's not a big deal I'd like to change it over. The importation company already changed over the speedo and so the cluster reads F degrees and Miles. Just that one last change to make it all match up.
I read an old thread on the earlier generation that the body control module needs to be changed. But, nothing on this generation. Lots of people trying to go metric from English so maybe we could even trade parts to make it happen.
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On last trip in '13 RX350, I changed the Nav display from hours and minutes to destination to "Arrival Time." It showed the arrival time for about 30 seconds and then immediately reverted to the minutes enroute to my destination. I changed it at least a dozen times but each time it reverted to the minutes left in my trip.
Since I'm 200 miles from the nearest Lexus dealer, I can't just drop by and have them check this out.
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Does your tire inflation psi reading ever randomly display dashes (-----) for a brief minute or so when first starting the engine before actually displaying the psi reading? I've had this happen a couple of times for no apparent reason that would prevent normal TPMS signal operation, but within a minute the dashes are replaced with the actual psi reading. I'm just wondering if this is a somewhat normal event to have happen from time-to-time.
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Can I read oil pressure on my scan gauge II ? If so, how do I do it?
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The patient: e99 F250 Super Duty with 7.3 "Million Mile" motor, 350k miles.
Symptoms: AC won't engage, low pressure PSI reading is over 85, past my needle's capability.
Story: Bought the truck and found a big fat rock hole in the condenser. Swapped condenser and dryer, vacuumed, oiled, and recharged the system. Worked great for 1 month. Now seems any time I turn the truck off or turn off the AC it sends the low pressure soaring above 85 PSI. If I "De pressurize" the system to normal, Turn the truck on, then the clutch engages, and things go back to normal, then below normal because I just depressurized 2 cans worth of the system. Add two cans and it's good to go.
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I tried searching here for a pid to get oil pressure. Can't find it. Is it possible to get oil pressure readings on these motors? I assumed it would be because we have a dummy oil pressure gauge on the dash. I thought it would be in the pop up list of gauges on Torque but I didn't see it.
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I have a 2002 Ranger V6 3000 with 100K miles. Can I add a higher viscosity oil since my pressure gauge is acting up. I changed the sending switch twice but the gauge still acts up occasionally. I was thinking of adding 10/ 30 on my next oil change. I do live in the area where the air temp is quite high in the summer. The truck runs well except for the oil gauge, in my opinion, is giving false readings.
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I have a 2001 Ranger 4.0, 4x4 that just hit 100k and the oil pressure gauge doesn't show a reading for about 1 minute after startup. Also, the check gauge light comes on. What do I replace to fix this and is it something I can do myself? I am mildly handy. Would you worry about fixing it or just let it go because it's obviously getting oil pressure.
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These are my gauge readings at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. According to an AC conversion for gauges calibrated in Pascals, 35-40F converts to 241-276 KPa, 140-160F converts to 1000-1103Kpa. The gauges are in Mpa which by conversion is 3 decimal points to the left so .241-.276 and 1-1.103 Mpa. Here are my gauge readings at 68 degrees ambient temp. Rear air is same as an ambient temp on max ac and the front is pictured. There seem to be virtually no pressure differences which I would interpret as a novice that there is ) freon flow.
There is freon in the system with the high pressure being approx correct but the low side is too high if I understand correctly. Basically when at highway speeds at 75 degrees yesterday the front AC was cold and the rear was outside vent temp only. There are slight leaks in the low and high-pressure valves. I have a Mastercool replacement tool but they did not send a fitting for the high-pressure valve. What these readings mean as far as what may be wrong?
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I have been having an intermittent (2 times in the past 2000 miles) oil pressure gauge not reading. As I own a 6.0L I understand that this is just a pressure switch in reality and if the engine was starved of oil the HPOP system would kill the engine. The first time the oil gauge went out it was raining out. The second time was after going through a carwash and getting the underbody wash. At this time my battery light also came on for a few seconds.
Both problems seemed to go away after an engine restart. Today it is snowing lightly and my battery light came on again. I happened to be monitoring the battery voltage and FICM voltage via OBD II using Torque app. At no time while the battery light was on today did the battery voltage drop below 13.5V. The FICM was also stable at 48.5+/-.5V.
As the battery voltage read by the PCM is not actually dropping and the previous oil pressure gauge and the fact that my left blinker indicator is out I am thinking I may have electrical issues with the gauge cluster. I have never had these issues while driving in dry weather. Where do I start troubleshooting this? Also I am going out of town for the next two weeks and my girlfriend was going to use the vehicle. Is it OK for her to drive?
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Just changed the fuel filter in my '04 6.0, no issues worked just like normal, filter primed truck started, great. Well now my fuel pressure gauge is reading dead 0, I know that can't be right because the truck is running, but noticed my fuel mileage seems about 2 mpg lower all of a sudden. Had R&R Injectors installed about 40k ago, figure it's just a bad gauge but wanted to check and see before messing with the frickin wiring. Also, have had a lot of pressure buildup in the coolant tank, has had head gaskets and studs, anything else it could be besides head gaskets? Have had a lot of wiring issues with this truck from the previous owner....
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The tire pressure light just came on in a 5 year old tire that I decided to put on the ES350.
The two front tires are 36 lbs, two rear were 32, I adjusted them all to be around 32 and the light is still on, including the spare tire in the trunk.
I decided to put this tire on because it has much better tread than the last. Regardless, I don't know why the light is on.
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I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty 3.7L that has a temperature gauge on the dash that reads an overheat when driving. The oil looks normal, there is no white smoke, no bubbling from reservoir. I have replaced the following:
Radiator
Thermostat
Water Pump
Coolant Temperature Sensor
Coolant Reservoir Tank
I am not leaking any coolant and the reservoir level has been fine. I have let the vehicle idle for 20+minutes, with no overheat. When I drive it around, the temperature gauge will read an overheat. When I stop the car and pop the hood, the engine is not overheated and both rubber hoses to/from radiator are flowing the coolant. The only thing that will bring the gauge down is turning on the heater full blast. Could this be the gauge itself being bad? Could it be a short in a wire somewhere? I had thought maybe a head gasket, but have no symptoms of a head gasket.
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