Lexus LS 2007+ :: Ctek 3300 Battery Charger / Safe To Connect Directly To Battery Under The Hood?
Jul 21, 2013
Just picked up a Ctek 3300 battery charger for my 2008 LS460L since we only drive it a few days a week. Is it safe to connect directly to the battery under the hood?
Where is the ideal spot to jump start on an LS? Reason I ask is that my BMW 6series have the battery at the back trunk but for any charging or jump starts it must be done under the hood where there is a terminal that goes to the battery.
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I need to know if it is safe to use an "Automatic battery float charger" I usually go away 30 to 60 days at a time, and inevitably when I came back the battery in my car is exhausted. Last year, to the advice of my mechanic I disconnected the negative cable from the battery. When I returned from my trip to Italy, I reconnected the cable, and the engine started with no problem, but the next day.....dead! The technician from AAA recommended an electric (to be plugged in) automatic battery float charger. (Car is always garaged) I'm getting ready to go away again, but I'm afraid to use the charger. Is this device safe or it can cause an electrical fire?
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Just bought a CTEK for the SC430 along with the 8ft extension cord. Car doesn't get much use during the snow/ice season.
How you did your install and routed the wiring? I would rather not keep the hood up during charging.
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I bought a BatteryMinder Model 2012 charger. This is a low-amperage temperature-compensating multi-stage charger/maintainer/desulfator that is supposed to avoid the wear and tear that lesser chargers inflict on batteries in long-term storage.
The charger comes with a 2-foot cable section with a terminal connection on one end and a capped plug on the other. I like the idea of an easy disconnect so I don't have to get under the hood each time I want to take the car out for a jaunt. My first thought was to run the cable and plug to the grill area of the car, except there's no easy way to do this without the plug showing. Also, the permanently-attached cable is only 2-feet long.
So I'm wondering about the windshield wiper tray, passing from the battery over the hood's rubber seal:
I attached a photo, showing where the charger cable might run. I can't see any conflict with the wiper or other functions. Am I missing anything?
The charger itself would be screwed to the garage wall.
Also, how about using a charger/maintainer with a cover over the car? This charger should not be pushing the battery and causing any water loss. So, I'm thinking that destructive gases should not be a problem. Again, am I missing something?
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By hooking it directly to the battery, putting the solar panel in the sun to keep it fully charged? It's 1.5 watts. 12 volts. It has a built in over charge protection.
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I found a decent deal on a 2nd gen prius. But I am going to need to repair the battery. I have already known that I can test and only repair the needed cells (since I looked into the situation when I was buying mine a year ago). Looking at the forums and saw there were a couple of chargers being recommended by the users; such as the supermate DC6 or the Hitec 44151 Quad X4.
I will likely want to charge 8 cells at time at least, as I would ideally like to get the car fixed in a couple of weeks.
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I recently replaced a dead battery in my Lexus RX 300, and have noticed something weird which I'm hoping to get an explanation for (and potentially fix).
When I turn off the engine, sometimes the battery itself seems to disconnect.When I try to turn on the car at this moment nothing happens. However, when I press the button which pops the hood in the car and then try to start the engine, everything turns on fine (and my clock resets).
My guess is that something is loose near the battery, but how to address this.
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Is it possible to do a long charge of the hybrid battery with a regular battery charger? If so how?
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I replaced my valve cover gasket yesterday on my 2004 Camry. While putting back together, three of the tabs on the connectors for the ignition coil harness snapped off and would not stay together because of tension on the harness. I tried to zip tie them because I read that in another forum post but the clips (alligator clips?) inside the connector did not seem to be making contact with connector on top of ignition coil. The car was mis-firing and running very rough.
After much frustration, I finally removed the wires with the alligator clips from inside the connector and plugged them directly into the top of the ignition coil. Well, the car started and seems to be running/idling fine although now the Check Engine Light is on. Also, I have not driven car yet.
My question: Can I drive the car like this or will the vibration from the engine eventually loosen the connections. I am planning on ordering the connectors but they will not be in for a few days and I need to drive the car.
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I always keep the charger in the socket during charges and even when I'm not charging the phone.
Is this necessarily a bad thing, is it running down my battery?
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Every time I connect the battery I get a clicking under the dash its non stop until I remove the battery cables. just when I remove the left passenger side battery. When I put in the key while its clicking and try to start its almost like I have no power the needle just drops down to nothing. The batteries have a full charge I pulled them off and charged over night also brought them in and had them tested. Seems like a serious short in the electrical but that clicking under the dash coming from fuse box scares me. I did pull all the relays and it still clicks.... doesn't sound good! 1999 F350...
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My car battery was bad and took it to get it exchanged for a new one. Car was without the battery for probably around 6 hours. Came home and installed the new battery and car fired right up but I noticed that it idles at around 400-450 rpm. This is with the ac on or off. AC does not increase the RPM any. But I also noticed that at this RPM, the AC doesnt blow any cold air. As soon as I barely press the throttle and it gets to where it used to idle prior (600-700) the AC blows cold again. The car has never idled this low prior. I took the battery out for around 2 minutes and still the same thing. Ive also read about leaving it disconnected for 30-60 min and see if it works.
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I have a 2007 LS460L. It hasn't been driven in three or four days. Today we found the car was completely dead. I had to get into the car with the manual key. The battery is one year old. The AAA person found that the light switch was set on parking lights rather than automatic. Could that have drained the battery. I thought that the lights turn off after you leave the car.
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When I went to shut my ES350 off, there was a message "Key Battery Low" ... then "Moon Roof Open"
1). My key battery isn't that old.
2). Does it tell you the Moon Roof is open in case it might rain or?
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My 2007 lexus es 350 engine will not shut off after I push the off button.
The everything goes off except the engine and the dash lights. I have to disconnect the battery to shut off the engine. The car does not have a remote start. could it be a relay and if so which one.
Last night I left the car battery disconnected and then this morning reattached and everything seemed fine. I started the car and let it fun for a couple minutes and then pushed the button and the car shut off. Then about 2o minutes later the alarm went off. The remote would not respond so I started the car and the alarm went off. Then I pushed the button to turn it off and the same problem occurred.
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A couple days ago the engine wouldn't start. I thought it was a dead battery (installed 5 months ago), so I brought a mechanic with a new battery. While the mechanic was working on replacing the battery, I heard some discrete noise coming out from under the hood and windshield area (driver's side). I didn't pay much attention.
Now, when I switch off the car, I can hear the noise (it's like the door's closer sound but with higher interval and it comes out about every 30 seconds). When I'm at complete stop, I hear the noise with the rpm dropping a tiny bit until the noise fades away when the rpm gets back to the normal level. The episode is repeated every 30 seconds or so. Today I felt the battery started to drain (it took longer to start the car).
LS460, '08, VSR fix done 1 year & 30K miles ago. No other problems or symptoms.
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I have an '07 ES350. I was riding my motorcycle today and the key to my Lexus fell out of my pocket at 140mph. I recovered it to find that it popped semi-open. The key battery had become loose and damaged. The microchip looks just fine, as well as the key fob itself. I replaced the key battery and the key was not detected by the car. I used the procedure to start the car by holding the fob up close to the start button. It worked just fine, but the key fob will no longer lock and unlock the car.
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Say your going to the airport etc, how long do these cars maintain a charge with a real good battery? Seems like a lot of drain going on in a loaded 460. My 91 wouldn't even last 2 weeks and it was primitive in comparison.
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So I have a 2008 ES 350 with 53,000 miles on it. In December of 2015, It was starting fine, then it sat for about two weeks without me driving it. When I went to start it, it had to be jumped. It took longer and longer to start (more cranks) until I took it in. Also there was a delay between hitting the lock button on the handle and the car actually locking. The battery was still the original one, and the dealer tested it and it was in fact in need of replacement.
Now here's where things get weird: I replaced the battery with a brand new Interstate 24f 700 CCA battery from Costco. The car starts now, but it is kind of slow (about 4-5 cranks) to start. Also, the car starts faster (two or one crank(s)) if I first put it into accessory mode then start it.
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I put a new battery in my 2007 LS460 and it lit up all kinds of vsc, brake, abs, pcs, stop the vehicle immediately, etc. A 30 minute freeway trip, then 1 hr turned off has not changed anything.
Background: no warnings before the dead battery, but the rear window would reverse when it got part way. I was monkeying with it, and found the weather seal crimped right there. I left the ignition on by mistake. 8 hours later, the 1 year old battery was dead. I hooked up a good charger and it nearly cranked 20 minutes later with the charger connected so I left it until the charger said it was done and unhooked it. There were no dash lights and my voltmeter read something like 3 volts.
I pulled it out and replaced it, which cranked right up and runs great, but has all these errors. I'm having trouble walking right now, but when I get a chance, I'll check the voltage on the new battery in case the car isn't charging, but I would have expected the two long drives yesterday to kill the battery again if it wasn't. I also have a ScanGaugeE which I may use to read and reset the codes.
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I am getting some coilovers soon, but noticed a lot of people having camber issues when slammed, I am not looking to be on the ground, just wanna get rid of wheel gap. My goal is to have 1 finger between the tire and wheelwell. Is this doable without issues?
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