Lexus LS 2007+ :: Car Barely Hiccups Through The Curves And Hills
Jan 24, 2014
I took my first road trip with my family in our new LS460L up through Donner's Pass and into Reno. This car just gobbles up miles. But what I did notice is that going through the mountain pass, the car barely hiccups through the curves and hills. Before you know it, you're pulling lateral g's.
The other thing I notice is that it's really easy to get comfortable in this car. It's just pure smooth silk. Makes me want to go into a trance. I'm not talking about the crap that BMW drivers throw at Lexus cars about detachment etc. Personally I love the smoothness.
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I just purchase 09 LS460 41k miles AWD. I was returning from a nice highway ride had driven about an hour doing an average around 80 getting 23.3MPH. As I was arriving home I stop at the store when i was leaving the store I turned right in front of traffic hit the accelerator and the car would barely move I released hit the gas again gunned it no power and the car gradually got up to speed 35MPH, So i went down the street a little came to a stop made a hard right and gunned it and my moped would get up to speed faster than the car would.
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I noticed lately that my ls is barely blowing air through the vent. I can hear the climate operating but there is barely any air coming out.
Tried to replace the air filter to no avail. Car in the vid run on electric mode but when I'm driving it's the same thing.
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I have a Lexus RX 330 2004 which I recently made some changes to the front end suspension, since then, my car beeps whether i turn or I drive even in straight line beyond 40MPH. The beep comes along with a light in dash with an icon of the car with curves.
I have read something referring to a zero calibration. Which pins to short to perform the calibration? Since I don't have the lexus diagnostic tools, I heard its the CG and TS pins but What pin numbers are the on my 2004 AWD RX 330?
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I've got a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe with the 2.4L engine. Funny thing happened on the highway. Driving along with the cruise on, the engine 'hiccups'. Almost like a quick hesitation or someone lightly tapping the brakes.
Got it home and ran the usual tests. Computer showed no trouble codes. Checked the oil. Checked the air filter. All normal.
Turned the car on and tested it in park. Gave it some gas, and took the engine up to 3k RPMs...after a few seconds, it did the hiccup thing again. I watched the RPMs dropped from 3k to 2.5k, and then rebounded to 3k. We could also hear a slight and single 'knock' each time the RPM's would drop. I noticed the A/C was on, so I turned it off, and the problem went away. Turned the A/C back on, and the problem came back. I did that about 5 times to confirm it, and every time the problem occurred, the A/C had to be on.
Now, of course the car has 61.5k miles, and we're the second owners, so bye bye warranty. The car was in for repairs at the dealership when the head control unit for the A/C had issues. Of course now we ask them if the problem is related to their repair will they cover the costs, and they say the best they can do is ask Hyundai to cut down the expenses (even though the repair was done within the last 10k miles)?!
My guess is the compressor has kicked the bucket. Of course, I'm not sure if maybe it's the idle motor not operating like it should or if the car even HAS an idle motor to work with the RPMs when the A/C is on.
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Over the last few months I was having a problem with my 2002 SC430 with 130,000 miles having random hiccups and engine hitches during acceleration and even at random times while on the highway or around town. My average 10 minute trip around town would have at least 10 hiccups, all random and during no specific style of driving. No one wants a stuttering engine!
After reading some of the threads here there were several options...
1. Do a system reset by using only the key turned on and pressing on the gas pedal for thirty seconds. While optimistic, this didn't solve the problem...
2. Many threads suggested that it may be my TPS (throttle position sensor) so I started shopping around for a sensor to install myself. They run for about $75 online and are a pretty easy install..but I wanted an official opinion so I went into my local lexus dealership to ask them if this was the best course of action...
The solution: Apparently, the 430 engine is a notorious carbon producing engine so, as my local lexus mechanic explained, this carbon can build up in the throttle body, affecting how the mass air flow sensor (MAFS) is read. My mechanic recommended having a FUEL INJECTION SERVICE. This service cleans the fuel deposits in fuel injectors and carbon build-up in cylinder heads and in the throttle body plating.
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I took my 09 6 cyl. AWD Santa Fe Ltd. into the dealership this morning because of a whoop whoop whoop noise when accelerating normally or maintaining speed on a grade. A bit like a helicopter sound. The frequency of the noise increases with speed and seems to come from the front driver's side. I thought it might be a wheel bearing.
$2000+ later I have new tires, a 4 wheel alignment, new rotors and pads fore and aft, a new tie rod end and a car that goes whoop whoop whoop when I accelerate or climb a hill.
The car has 125,000 km. (78,000 mi.) on it and has been very well maintained. Detonation maybe?
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Our 07 Mazda5 (80k) once in a while will start and run very roughly, and pressing the gas to the floor only gets it to 3,000 rpms.It has diminished power for climbing hills when this occurs. Everytime this happens if we shut the car off and let it sit (between 10 minutes - a couple hours) it starts and runs like a top. We have added drygas 2 of the times, but the last time it happened was on the same tank of gas that we added the drygas to. Check engine light comes on, but will go off after a day or so.
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I have a 2007 Camry SE 4C. 104K miles on the clock and no issues until now. The car has never been in the shop. I do my own work, which amounts to oil changes and I replaced the pads a few weeks ago. Yeah over 100k on the original pads and still at 30%.
About a month ago I took a freeway drive and the low fuel light came on. I was in the middle of no where so no gas stations nearby. After about ten minutes of driving at 60mph the check engine light came on. Shortly thereafter I reached a gas station and filled up. The check engine light went out. Got home and did a visual check and didn't see anything. Yesterday the low fuel light came on. This morning my 36 month battery was acting weak after 21 months. The car barely started. Got to the gas station and filled up and the battery seems to be stronger now. My theory is the low fuel light/circuitry is causing the problem.
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Before I got my GX someone posted they had to press harder on the brake to keep the vehicle from moving forward. My truck idles at 550 rpm and the vehicle will barely move forward even with NO brake. Just resting my foot on the brake will hold it easily.
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I have a 2005 with 168,000 miles on it. I just changed (well... about 3 weeks ago) the hybrid battery in it. Of course, the reason I did this was that I was getting the christmas tree lights and the codes - all pointed to the battery and since I knew it was about time, I succumbed! Just prior to that, I ran it for 2-3 weeks with it constantly going into limp mode, so I would have to pull over, shut it all down, power it back up and I was ok for several more miles. This went on until it got so bad that I had to replace the battery. Right around the same time, I accidentally backed up and hooked the right rear bumper on the curb - backed over the curb - so that it kind of ripped the right-rear side of the bumper off - broke the plastic clip/strip behind the bumper that held it on. Because of that, while my whole interior was ripped out, and my 'new' hybrid battery was installed, whenever it rained, water would enter into the 12V battery compartment in the right rear of the car, such that it would slosh around and you could hear it while driving. But during this same time, as I said above, after I put the replacement hybrid battery in there, the car ran great, except for 3-5 times a day when I am rounding an unusually sharp curve, when the red triangle warning light comes on for maybe 1-3 seconds and then goes off.
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I've got an '05 Tacoma 4WD with 145,000 miles. Very recently, when taking right curves at moderate speed ( e.g. freeway cloverleaf onramps), I'll lose power at the apex of the curve. It comes back immediately when the I straighten out. No warning lights on panel. It feels like no gas since there's no difference when I press the accelerator pedal.
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My '93 Metro 3 cyl (The Phoenix) is becoming a bit 'Long in the Tooth'...
Now, this summer, it has started creaking and popping when I go over wavy roads or take sharp curves at speed.
If I accelerate/decelerate the frame pops over on the passenger side and I hear pops in the trunk area.
I wonder how much longer it will be safe to drive.
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I've had 2013 Elantra for a month. Love it, but a week ago, the driver's seat started squeaking when stopping, accelerating, and going around curves. Crazy making! I took the car in today. Svc mgr said its a weight issue. The two driver/owners weigh 150 and 160 lbs! Exactly, he said. Apparently, we do not weigh enough to prevent squeak. The only fix would be to replace the seat and there's no guarantee it would work. Also must be approved by regional svc mgr so have to go back in a.m. Told them similar issues posted online (Genesis and Sonata) and was easily resolved lubricant issue. They could at least try what appears to work. No going.
Have other Elantra owners experienced this squeaking? If Hyundai knows this is a recurring issue with their products, at what point do they make engineering changes to resolve the issue? Don't want to, but I am rapidly losing my love for the car as it sounds like a cheap tin can when it squeaks.
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What the heck could it be? It gets a little louder on left-hand curves of the road, but pretty much constant. Its not the tires, they are new as of a few months ago.
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Have 2005 F150 5.4L 4WD Unit is trying to engage on all left hand curves and occasionally on straightaways, it has been doing this for about 1 month on left hand curves but just the last week on straightaways when it does it on straights you almost have to stop the tuck before it quits, has 70,000 miles and never been abused.
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After a while of running with the A/C on the car starts to have little hiccups? almost sounds like it's missing? but not that dramatic, it will continue after I turn the A/C off, but resolve after I have had the car off for a while. It will start up again after an hr or less of starting the A/C. It seems like I have a loose in HP while this is happening, more so than normally expected with the A/C on. I have recently replaced the ignition cables, plugs, my car is definitely a little more peppy now, and had the timing belt/water pump replaced, all the ussual maint, but this issue was present before. What this could be?
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The particulars are 2003 Camry, 4 cyl, manual trans. When it gets to be 90 degrees or hotter outside, the car hiccups when accelerating through 2800 rpm. That is the most common scenario. Pretty much any gear and the problem gets worse the hotter to outside air. It never throws a code or check engine light. It doesn't stall although it feels like an instantaneous loss of ignition. I can set the cruise control and it will periodically happen when driving through the desert. It repeats as often as it wants to....no overall pattern, uphill or flat, no difference. Dealer says nothing is wrong since it won't throw a code. No issue in the winter, only hot summer driving.
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I have not yet managed to fix the Ex, i have replaced the CPS with a Delphi 101 cps, and the ICP sensor. The truck ran great for almost 3 hours, but then started acting up again. Codes I pull are P1000 and P1280.
The p1280 code is probably from a loose connector, i got injection pressure of 728psi constant at idle and during low rpms, will fix that tomorrow, but that is probably not what causes the hiccup, but if my new one is function correctly, then i might be something else? The old was from stock and had an oily connector, i have replaced the pigtail though.
The funny thing is, that when i open the hood, the rpms will climb up around 200rpms at idle, to right under 1000rpms, it will do this slowly, takes about 10 seconds. Close the hood and it goes back to normal, so maybe a vacuum leak? When i slam the hood shut, it will sometimes do the hiccup. I have managed to loose 2 of the bolts to the valve cover, but it sits tightly.
Really lost on this truck, what can cause this hiccup, when it does it, the water-fuel light comes on (got a new filter in it). I also have a check engine light, but if i delete the codes when its running, it goes away until startup again.
Another thing i have noticed is that the truck is slower to start then normal, before i got this problem, the truck would start right up when turning the key, now i have to crank it for about a second more.
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I have a 98 Express conversion van and when I start the van and pull away the van has trouble shifting between first, second, and third. It acts like it hiccups before it changes gears. I have to manually shift between the first few gears until I get to 55-60 miles an hour, once I get there and slow the van back down it will automatically shift like normal. I will not have any other issues until I turn the van off, as soon is I turn it off something resets and I will have to get it up to 55 again to get whatever it is to click in to get it to shift properly again. I can't figure it out?
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Intermittent starting issue in these things? Seems to be getting more common for me this winter. Turn the key, it turns over, and then I let go of the key and she doesn't light. Then when I try again, it's like the engine is flooded. I have to give it gas to start, which I know is a no-no in fuel injected vehicles. Other than that, it's fine. No sputters, no hiccups, runs strong, good mpg, etc. But I'm getting annoyed....
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