Lexus LS 2007+ :: Brakes Sensor Warning - Little Grind Noise
May 20, 2013
Driving my 2008 460L and I get the brake sensor warning. Ok I've been through this before and know I have a little time left, but two days later I get a little grind noise. Then suddenly metal on metal what the hell is that noise! Turns out the passenger side rear lost a pad... it's just gone. The plate is left but the pad is gone on the inside of the rotor. The outside still had about 25% left. The other back wheel still had about 25% left on both pads.
I have 97k on the car and the rotor was turned on the last brake job so I assume I am done with this rotor and order a new one. Now the fun... I pull off the caliper and compress the cylinder on the offending pad first. The way I do this is with a big pair of channel locks I put one jaw on the pad and one on the back of the caliper and squeeze. It works a treat so I pull the offending pad and the dust boot falls to the ground in pieces. Great... now I put the channel locks on the other pad and when I squeeze, it goes in very easily with almost no resistance and the cylinder on the other side(with no boot on it) shoots out along with a bunch of fluid, probably 4-6 oz.
I decide to reassemble everything knowing I now need to bleed the brakes. All of the other wheels are normal and the brake job goes smoothly.
Frustrating part is here... how do you bleed the brakes in this car?!
methods I tried:Gravity - open the bleeder valve and let it drip, the dripping stopped after 20 minutes leaving no fluid in the line or caliper at all.
vacuum - I used the hand pump tool to try and pull fluid thru, got little spits and dribbles at best.
traditional - had my son pump the brakes, he could get a spongy pedal that bottomed out but never a firm pedal and the cylinder remained empty.
pump and suck - aggressive pumping of the pedal with the suction device on the hardline nipple. This resulted in a little fluid coming thru but no where near the amount you'd expect.
Now I have VSC, Brake Malfunction, ABS warning on the computer.
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I first noticed this recently as my wife was pulling out of the driveway into the street... The car wasn't cold, as it had been running for a bit over 5 minutes, warming up. My driveway slopes a bit towards the street and also has a dip/hump at the end of it. As she pulled out in R from P, I heard a thump. I also hear a noise which sounds like the brakes engaging. So in order, brakes engaging, shift from P to R, the thump then as it backs up and turns into the street, there's a slight, faint grind noise.
As the car stops to go from R to D, it thumps again. But as it goes into drive and pulls away..smooth as butter and quiet. I've heard and read that it's possible motor mounts. I'm wondering if the light grinding is the actuator...or perhaps dried out bushings in the control arms... Also read the possibility of the trans going bad, which I highly doubt, but who knows. My plan is to call Lexus in the morning and see if I can be squeezed in.
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Just like the title says out of the blue the esc light will come on and it sounds like the front brakes are grinding. This only happens once in a while but more often as of late. Grinding noise does not occur until after the light comes on. Sometimes the light will stay on for a minute and then go out and everything is fine. Other times we need to shut the car off and on for the light to go out. Grinding noise only occurs one time in all instances.
We just had a brake job done 3 months ago so I am at a loss as to the problem. This is an 07 FWD Sante Fe.
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So I drove 400 miles today and when I was just about home I heard a grind when I applied the brakes on the freeway. Well I did a walk around the car to check all the pads and noticed my rear pads are almost gone. I'm not used to having the rear brakes implemented in so much of my daily driving, with the TCS and all.
To make it easy I'd like to keep all four corners on the same brake setup, I'm just not sure what is ideal on this car. I know OEM is gonna be said, but I upgraded my front pads to Hawk HPS'.
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Couple days ago it's -24C and I jump in car and head off to hardware store. Shop for 30 min and return and start the car. Starts ok but I notice that I have all sorts of warning lights on dash (ABS, Airbag, Parking Brake) and no power to my center console ie radio, climate stuff, fan etc. Also I can't move the shifter from Park.
Car's running so I dig out the manual to check the warning lights info and look at the fuse diagram cause maybe it's a blown fuse. Anyway 3-4 min after this, the power starts coming back to my center console, I hear the radio, then the fan then everything seems back to normal, except i still have dash warning lights and no shift action out of Park.
A few minutes later my dash warning lights start to go out, one at a time until only the ABS light is on. And my shifter now works. I wait a few minutes, make sure I have brakes, and drive home. Start it a few hours later and all is normal. And has been since.
A few days previous to that, in -27C weather my brakes froze and I had to do some serious pumping to get them to unfreeze. Maybe the two event are related.
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The other day I had my windows open while backing up and noticed that the brakes make a clicking noise when I initially apply them while in reverse.
This happens every time I'm in reverse and I apply the brakes.
The clicking is only when I first step on the brake, but it happens every time I first step on the brake in reverse.
Maybe this is unique to the LS600hL (2008)? Are brakes on my LS different from brakes on LS460 / LS460L?
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I had my window down as I was backing the car into the garage today and heard a metallic clicking noise from the rear as I tapped on the brakes. The noise only happens when I am in reverse. When I put it in drive and move forward there is no clicking noise. As an AZ resident its rare for us to have the windows down so to be honest I cant really say how long this has been going on for. My car was just in for service for oil , tire balance, and alignment this saturday
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When I apply the brakes on and off while in park, I hear a "fluttering squeaking" noise. I examined the brake pads and calipers, and everything seems to be fine. I greased up all the brake hardware and no luck.
Also, I have a popping noise while making turns while I am not braking. I really doubt there is any connection with the brakes? I recently went testing in a parking lot, and while slightly turning from left to right I noticed the popping constantly. Keep in mind no brakes were applied.
Last year the dealer replaced the brake actuator and all arms were replaced. BTW, I am past my extended 100K warranty!!
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I just bought a 2007 GS350 that had 45k miles and have noticed something strange with I believe the transmission. So far I have has 2 times when I have hit the brakes hard and had to accelerate again and either heard a clunk noise or even had the tires burp once after the clunk. Tonight I hit the brakes hard to avoid a red light and heard a clunk. I'm going to get it checked out at the dealer but I bet they will tell me they can't reproduce the problem. I have 2 other Lexus's (IS300) and have had no problems so this is a first.
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I just had my front brake pads replaced by a local shop. I am now hearing a clunking noise every time I step on the brakes. I got the brake pads from the local Lexus Dealership but had them installed by a local shop. Is it normal to have this clunking for the first couple hundred miles until the brakes "wear" in or do I need to have someone else look at the brakes?
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Just purchased a 2010 ls with 20,000 miles on it. Brakes make a popping noise when coming to a stop. Not all the time, seem to get worse as brakes get hot. Have had to dealer twice they have resurfaced rotor, bled system put new pads. Still have noise my service manager opened a trouble in the lexus system and called Atlanta. They said this is characteristic of this car. I drove a couple of other ls cars and did not hear the noise. Not sure where this is going to end up. I saw where the brake actuators where changed on the 07,08 and 09.
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The brakes on my 2014 Elantra Sport grind when they are wet/it's raining. They seem fine when dry.
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I bought my 2004 SC 430 used in 2005. The seat belt "reminder" buzzer or ding was silent and I have left it that way. Now that I am a member of this forum (just joined mid February) and after having so many questions answered solving problems I have been living with (like a steering wheel squeal when it retracts to let me out of the car, and a knocking above and behind the back seat, which turned out to be the shell that goes over the top when it is down, and lots of other solutions to things I did not want to go to the dealer about) I decided it is time to see if I can reconnect the seat belt warning. So, might that be a fuse?,Or maybe some wire under the dash that has been unplugged?
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Every single time it rains, our 2005 Prius' brakes tend to go haywire-and just when we need them the most. They back breaks lock up, bringing the car to a jolt and throwing us forward. Sometimes it feels like it won't brake and then bam, a very hard stop. Sometimes they squeak and grind too- It never happens when it is sunny outside-only where there is a significant amount of moisture in the air. We've taken the car to the dealer three times and they can never find anything wrong with it.
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I got my car inspected this summer, and the front brakes were reported as 8 and my rear brakes 6. I got front brakes not too long ago, and my rear brakes are original to the car. Recently, my brakes have very randomly (maybe once per car ride) started making a gentle squeaking or light grinding / grumbling noise when I apply the brakes. It doesn't seem to matter how hard I apply them or at what point during the car ride it is. Now, it will never squeak or grumble/grind at the same time, and the sound is never very loud. It also does not happen when my foot is off the brake or when the brake is released. Only when the brake is applied.
I've had squeaking happen in my previous car's rear brakes when some fluid was leaking, and my rear brakes had to be serviced, however, this sounds like it is coming from the front. I went looking in my owner's manual for a service schedule (for a maintenance code not related to this issue) and noted in very small print underneath the schedule that I should have replaced my brake fluid about a year ago. I don't know whether this could be related, and yes, I am going to get my car checked/serviced soon, but I cannot do it until next week. My questions are what might be causing the noise and also if it could be dangerous. I don't think that my brake pads are worn. The brakes also function very well as far as I can tell. I have no issues stopping. I have 75K miles on my car...
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So I had a bent wheel and had to replace it and the new one did not have the TPMS sensor so now I get a permanent low tire warning message.
Is there anyway to disable this warning? Alternatively how costly is it to get a new TPMS sensor?
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My is350 F sport tire pressure sensors. Well I have after market wheels with the stock tire pressure sensors, when they were first installed everything was fine, now about 2 months later now that it is a little cooler. My two back sensors are showing the warning light. it still reads the pressure and shows correct pressure but sensor warning light for both rear tires are on. Why this is? I was thinking the colder weather but why only the rear two and not the front. they go off and on but lately both have been on.
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I have 2008 ES350 & my ABS speed sensor light came on a few months ago & i just got around to getting it fixed yesterday.
I took my car to get the code checkout because on my dash the Brake, ABS, & Traction light was on all the same time & stay on. Can't remember the code but it read left rear speed sensor. So i order one off Ebay. I had my mechanic fix it yesterday & for some reason all three lights still on & i drove it for 50 miles now figuring the light would be off by now.
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I've been working on my car for a few weeks now and I've been doing my best to figure out. The source of this sort of 'metallic grinding' that I'm hearing within the cabin. I cant seem to pinpoint where it's coming from within the engine bay with the hood open (maybe due to the magnaflow exhaust diffusing the sound from the outside of my car). I can easily hear noise when I'm inside however with indications its coming from the lower central area of the engine bay. I drive an '04 Volkwagen GTI 1.8T
In the days I've been working on it I've replaced the:
1. Timing Belt (and tensioner pulley/tensioner dampener)
2. Water Pump
3. Serpentine Belt
4. Thermostat (and housing)
5. Clutch disk and flywheel (from a SMF to a LUK DMF clutch)
6. CV Axles (both drivers and passengers)
7. Clutch Cylinder Slave
8. Wheel Bearings (front left and right)
9. Rotors (Front Left and Right)
Diagnosis**
The car starts without any problems just as it use to prior to the replacements done. BUT it's once I get the car moving where I begin accelerating I start to hear a dull grinding noise/rumble that becomes more and more apparent the faster I go. It seems the sound is directly correspondent to wheel movement upon accelerating. Nevertheless I could be wrong.
I had a friend tag along to diagnose the sound and to him it sounded similar to the "tunneling of air not being properly sealed" but to me it sounds like a metallic grind. My friend also mentioned that he felt it was louder towards the passenger side in contrast to the drivers. As mentioned before the sound is reproduced anytime wheel movement occurs. I've checked torque spec for every replacement job done to the car so there are no loose bolts/nuts/brackets. (but there are exceptions, which I will get to).
Knowing that I've replaced both of the wheel bearings (and hub assembly) I can only assume the sources isn't from there. But I do admit a few mistakes while I had the car on jacks.
1. During the timing belt replacement I thought I would need to remove the exhaust (because I felt it would interfere with the lowering of the engine) so I, (without success), tried to remove the connection between the "bend of the exhaust" to the manifold which were 4 'turbo studs'. I had the worst time with the removal of studs but I was able to impact one them off, and as I tried another the strength of the impact broke one them half way through (meaning that I was able to unthread it a few threads but it snapped in the process, so I would need to somehow drill it out in order to replace it). This is where I gave up and did my best to install the one I had removed. Which I could only get threaded half of the way in.
-All in all I have 1 broken stud that still making a connection, and 1 protruding stud out of the 4 that connects the exhaust to the manifold.
Question: Can this be the cause of the sound? Without the full connection of 4 studs bolting exhaust to the manifold? Can this be the sound That my friend was referring to as the "tunneling air not being properly sealed"?
2. The second "mistake" isn't necessarily a mistake but a fault I found later that has to do with the Passenger CV Axle. I read a few forums here and read that it could be a problem with the axles, so I put the front end on jacks once again and found that there was a bit of movement of play on the axle shaft itself. In detail, the 2 connection points for the axle both at the Output differential flange and Hub assembly are secure and torqued to spec without any loose bolts.
BUT the rod itself seems to shift about a 1/2" between these two connecting points.
Question: Could THIS be the problem? With this type of 1/2" shift in the rod is it possible it can recreate the dull metallic grinding I'm hearing so much?
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I've had my '09 ES 350 for a few months now. I am disappointed in the low volume of parking sensor alert. The volume is all the way up and the switch is on. Expecting it to be louder as I am or do I have a faulty "speaker"? I'll be going to the dealer next month for service and will get their opinion at that time.
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So this is my first 4wd vehicle. I read that to put vehicle in 4wd when the car is running, put the car in neutral and shift the 4wd stick to H or L depending on the driving condition. When I do that, it grinds a little before slipping into the mode. Is this normal? Am I shifting it into 4wd incorrectly? Also, when doing normal road driving on pavement (no rain or snow), should the car be kept in H or N on the 4wd stick?
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