2008 LS600hl with 31K miles, been having low speed brakes shudder for quite sometime even after changing pads and machining rotors. This weekend thought about putting grease on the pins holding the pads, this did the trick, shudder is gone!
View 9 RepliesOn 8/18/04 VW told me that my 03' Passat (38'000 miles) needed new rotors & pads. I bought the car new. They told me that VW used rear pads that eroded quickly and provided new rotors on the house. I decided not to press my luck and paid for new pads. I look at my pads now through the rims and it seems dangerously thin and the edge of rotors has gouge all the way around. HAS ENOUGH TIME PASSED FOR A LEGIT REPLACEMENT ON THESE PARTS?
View 4 RepliesI recently had rotors and brake pads replaced on my 2007 Camry (front pads/rotors and read pads/rotors).
It was done last week and she is braking fine. But sometimes now when I brake there's a low-medium squeaking sound from the brakes. Is this normal / what's the likely cause?
Brakes shimmy on my 05 f150. Been doing this since new new pads and rotors and alignment. what now?
View 5 RepliesI performed brake maintenance today with my brother on my 2010 corolla CE, my front rotors were warped and my pads were used ( and also uneven) and I replaced both front rotors and pads.
The install went smoothly, my brother changed a couple of brakes sets and knew what he was doing and showed me up.
Took it for a spin, the brakes work very nicely ( i bought the ceramic wagner bundle ) but theres a slight grinding noise when driving, like the pads are touching and rubbing a bit too much on the rotor, but the driving is unnafected. Also, there's a sqealing noise coming from either side when you turn only.
Braking itself produces no noise whatsoever, only when you turn that it squeals.
Ok so we just replaced our front and rear brake pads and had the rotors turned. Our rear brakes are fine but both our front brakes now make a clunking/popping noise when we brake.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2008 GC with the E-Brake calipers in the back. I changed the brakes and rotors all around and now the petal goes to the floor. I know it has something to do with the rear brakes, because I did the fronts first and after a few pumps I had good petal.
I've done these types of rear brakes before, you use a tool to turn the caliper in. Is there anything I missed? Did I turn it in too much? I don't think it is the master cylinder because it was fine before I started and fine after I did the fronts.
Also, the e-brake doesn't hold at all now, so that's another reason I think the problem is in the rear calipers. Maybe an Adjustment? There's nothing leaking, either.
I'm getting sick of having my rims getting dirty after one hour of driving because of all the brake dust that the OEM pads give off. I keep hearing from shops that ceramic brake pads are not only more quiet but will put out much less brake dust. On the other hand, Lexus is telling me that if I do that, I will forsure damage the rotors but I really feel like they just want me to keep the car stock which is why they're saying that.
Are ceramic brake pads a bad idea with stock rotors?
I am trying to change pads on the rear disc brakes. I got everything apart but can't get the piston to retract to get the new pads in. I am turning the piston clockwise with needle nose plyers and it isn't retracting. What do I need to do?
View 7 RepliesLexus LS460
Issues:
1. Just put her in for the SECOND brake actuator replacement at 45k miles. First failed at 22k miles, so they DO have that consistency thing nailed.
2. Also had to replace BOTH B-pillar trim pieces which have soft facing material that cannot withstand the constant barrage of seat belt buckles banging into them during retraction. They start by showing marks, then dents, and finally the material gives up altogether and begins to shred.
3. Brake shudder due to "rotor warpage." I believe this problem is due to production engineering (or lack thereof) during final assembly. Hub runout at maximum combines with rotor runout at maximum, even though both are within tolerance, to produce a stackup tolerance outside the spec which results in warpage given enough thermal cycles. The reason the problem occurs only rarely is due to hub and rotor tolerance variations AND the various stackup combinations arbitrarily selected during final assembly of rotors to hubs.
4. The recirculation-biased AC causes mold (and odor) buildup in the AC system. Since this "choice" was made by Toyota to gain U.S. CAFE credits, the fault lies more with EPA and DOT than with TMC. Still, the unsuspecting Lexus customer is the one who suffers.
I'll buy an extended factory warranty on the car, run it for another year (20k), then sell it before the chickens come home to roost.
I noticed the front brake pads were touching the rotors when I was painting the brake calipers. I had my e-brake engaged and in park. I'm assuming the e-brake only brakes the rear wheels because the front rotors were still movable. Although the car still rides fine but I'm not sure if this is normal.
View 1 RepliesScion TC for Camry SE 2007.
I changed the front brake pads and resurfaced the rotors. After putting everything back together, I took the car to test drive it. The stopping power is fine and there is no squeaking or robbing sounds. However, when I apply the brakes at lower speeds moving forward there is knocking sounds the comes with the tire rotations. What is the reason for this sound?
This is my second time changing the pads and rotors, with the first with no issues. I put grease between the shams and the pads, and I sprayed the rotors with brake cleaner before the installation.
So, I changed the front brake pads on my 2007 Prius blindly, and in doing so I bled the lines (I also had the key in my pocket!). Now, the ABS light, VSC light and (!) light all are on and continue to stay on while driving. Is this something as simple as resetting the codes? Is the vehicle safe to drive to a repair shop to set strait?
View 2 RepliesWhat is the proper procedure in changing the brake pads without unbolting the caliper?
View 7 RepliesWhen I 1st brought the car the original brakes and rotors squeak, I really didn't mind bcuz I had plans on changing them, now I installed the aftermarket slot/drilled rotors with new ceramic brake pads, and I still get squeaking from the front brakes, weather it's wet or dry, cold or warm they squeak, what I can do to stop this?
View 5 RepliesHaving issues with the brakes locking to the rotors after washing the vehicle? I washed it on Saturday afternoon, pulled it back into the garage and it sat there until Monday morning.
I back the vehicle into the garage, always. I started it up, put it in D and usually it will want to lurch forward if I don't hold the brakes firmly. Not today. I could not get the thing to budge. I sat there for a few seconds to make sure the parking brake was not on. It was not, as I never use that. My garage floor is the slippery concrete, plus with the tire shine that I applied, the wheels were just spinning.
After I managed to get the vehicle halfway out, I put it in reverse...that worked no problem. I put it back in drive and had no issues after that. Do I need to have the vehicle looked at? It only has 5,400 miles, and it was just in last week for the 5K mile service.
I've had a 2006 Passat 4Motion for about 15 Months now and it just went in for it's 20k mile service. The dealer told me that the front pads and rotors were shot, and the rear pads needed to be replaced.
I've read that the front brakes are rather easy to change but my question is: are there any aftermarket pads and/or rotors that last longer than the OEM ones? I just don't think I want to do brakes every 20k miles. Now in regards to the rear brakes, apparently my rotors are okay but my pads need to be replaced. I've read that you need the VW "Vag Com" to do that and I'm new to VW software stuff.
How to remove the front brakes pads and rotors on my GMC Sierra 2008 - 1500 - crew cab - 4X4.
View 2 RepliesSo my car has 36 or so thousands miles and well the rear brake pads and rotors were SHOT! The rear rotor was falling apart and huge chunks were coming off. The issue stands now that I can't spread the rear caliper for anything, the ebrake is off too. I tried to use the C-Clamp trick but it honestly didn't even budge. I also opened up the bleeder and master cylinders cap just to cross that off the list when trying to compress. This is the hardest caliper I've ever had the misfortune of dealing with and I fear that the passenger side is not going to be any better. Aside from spending more money or renting the "tool" is there anything else to check because the C-Clamp trick has work on mine and my father trucks calipers.
View 3 RepliesMy 2004 Pacifica (130k miles) was left parked for 2 weeks while we were away. Upon return it didn't wqnt to back out of the parking spot. After about 1/2 revolution the wheels made a clanking sound and hung up. Rolling back and forth freed things up enough to drive the car to the mechanic (about 40 miles). And after the first mile or so everything seemed to go back to normal, with no absolutely signs of anything not wanting to turn smoothly.. The mechanic thought that the problem had been that the brakes were sticking due to the car being unused and said nothing needed to be done. However, upon examination he found that we could use new front brakes and 2 motor mounts. He said that the need for brakes and motor mounts was due to normal wear and tear, and was not related to the wheels hanging up issue.
But now, immediately after installation of 2 new front rotors and pads and 2 new motor mounts there is a vibration/shudder when braking from anything more than 20-30 mph, which was never there before. The shudder is rapid and sometimes pronounced like going over the warning groves cut into the edges of pavement on the interstate. He thinks that this may be a sign that there is a driveshaft issue, and dismisses it as due to an out of round rotor since they are new. I don't know what to think. By the way, he has always been an excellent mechanic, with a great reputation and loyal following.
A week ago my brakes started squealing badly. This past weekend I pulled off the offending tire to take a look and sure enough the squeeler is riding on the rotor so it looks like I need to replace the brakes at 53,000km.
The rotors look good so I plan to only replace the front pads. While I am working on it, I am going to disassemble and preform the TSB on the rears as they have been neglected lately.
What pad material should I go for, metallic or ceramic? Ideally I would like something that has good performance, yet had a good life span. I occasionally pull a 2500lbs (dry weight) braked tent trailer, but that is not very often.