Lexus LS 2007+ :: Brake Actuator - How To Know If Actually Failed Or Failing
Mar 31, 2014
I know that the brake actuator on the early LS460s has an issue. How do you know it's actually failed or is failing?
Do the brakes stop working?
I know that the brake actuator on the early LS460s has an issue. How do you know it's actually failed or is failing?
Do the brakes stop working?
10 months ago I purchased a 2007 Accord with a bad driver's door lock actuator. I replaced it myself 5 months ago, and when I did so, I discovered that it had been previously replaced, at least once. A month ago it went out again. Not sure if its relevant, but this time when it stopped working I had accidentally pulled the door handle at the same time that I pressed the unlock button on the key fob.
View 3 RepliesThe dealer told me my actuator and solenoid failed. I have a 2009 and less than 60,000 miles. I believe there is something wrong with those parts and they shouldn't fail at two years old. What do you all know about this?
View 19 RepliesI have searched and heard a lot about the brake actuator problems... but the noise I get is not a clicking noise.
My brakes have a noise when i press the brake all the way down and release it quickly... but its much more of a quick "scrubbing" noise... .almost a "creaking"... is this the brake actuator? or something else? I just recently got new pads and rotors at NTB... and the sound seems to have come after the install. i took it back in and they said they had no clue. Also , they did bleed the brakes when they installed new pads and rotors...
The noise really only happens when the car is in gear lunging. In park it happens one in 10 times as opposed to every time in gear.
I recently purchased an 08 ls 460 and started noticing the infamous clicking sound coming from the ABS brake actuator under the hood. A $3000plus fix that is not in the budget nor will it ever be!..After doing some research trying to figure out what the actuator does i stumble across this Lexus technician PDF ...
..It clearly states on page 2 that "If a Toyota ABS system malfuctions, normal braking will not be affected!...My worry has never been the sound it makes,.. but that of me not being able to brake when needed!!...
[URL]...
A few weeks ago, I received the triangle light in my 2007 Prius with 125k miles on it. When I took it to the dealer, they said that the hybrid battery needed to be replaced. A new battery was ordered & installed by the dealer, which took a couple weeks as the battery wasn't in stock. When I picked up the Prius this week, within driving it a couple miles, it was apparent the A/C wasn't working. I took it right back to the dealer who said they'd look into it. When the Service sales guy started it again, it made a very strange noise as well, which it never did before. The dealer has come back and said that not only has the A/C Compressor out but the ABS actuator is also failing. They are saying this has nothing to do with the battery replacement but both these items were working fine before having the battery replaced
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Honda CRV, driver side door lock actuator has failed. Door is shut and will not open. I have pulled back the door panel enough to see the actuator and touch it. How can I get the door open to replace the actuator?
View 5 Replies2012 Prius C Trim 2. Title says it all. Luckily, I had purchased an extended warranty back in 2013 when you could still purchase them from Toyota dealerships online so it didn't cost me anything.
View 16 Replies'07 LS460 130K, started failed 8/15 replaced w/ o'Reilly rebuilt total cost $700, that one failed 12/14, this time went to Lexus Dealer new bill $1700. Both times Battery us up (new) start switched checked out.
View 14 RepliesHaving issues with door lock actuators going out? I wanted to make sure that the motors (Mabuchi) are still the same for the ES?
View 11 RepliesMy 2007 LS 460 makes a noise like a pump pulse sound during braking. When I step on the brake before coming to a stop there is no noise but once the car is 20 feet before coming to a complete stop at times you feel and here a pulse or pump or vale sound in the front engine area. Sometimes as I increase pressure on the break pedal a little harder you can feel and here a single pule and at times 3 or 4 valve or break pump sound. What might be going here? I am certain the sound is not coming from the wheel area. It is definitely under the hood. Could it be a faulty load sensing proportioning valve or booster?
View 6 RepliesTried to start my 2007 es350 this morning. While I was attempting to start I was also adjusting my seat backwards and the car failed to start. The gas pedal is stiff and so is the steering wheel. The Start button turns orange when I try to start , if I really press down hard on the brakes the start button turns green but when i press it there is a flickering noise but she doesn't start. What could it be ....battery is about 9 months old?
View 2 RepliesI was on my way to TN for vacation. Car 2008 ES 350 with 49,000 miles had just been to dealer for new battery 1 week before. Driving on I95 and check engine light and 2 other lights came on and smoke came out of hood but temp gage stayed at C even though car was overheating.
Got off hwy and discovered there was no coolant. Bought correct coolant and put it in. Got back on hwy and car started to smoke so pulled off and fortunately car died at end of ramp rather than in the middle of interstate. Had to be towed 50 miles to Lexus dealer who told me that water pump failed and heat destroyed engine. I'm away from home in shock without a car. How a 2008 with only 49,000 miles impeccably maintained could all of a sudden overheat without warning.
I have noticed that when I open the door to the driver's side after the car has been sitting overnight that the pump noise is longer than half a year ago when i bought it used. It used to last for max. 3 or so seconds, and now it takes 5-10s - depends. I can get into car and almost get it into ready and then it ends.
Also, every second or third time i press the brake (normal, like when stopping gently) i can hear the sound of the pump for around 2 seconds. I don't remember that happening before so is this or isn't normal?
The brake actuator on our 2006 Prius (95K miles) was activating (pump turned on) every 20 seconds or so. I used AutoEnginuity (AE) software to monitor the pressure of PACC (accumulator pressure sensor) and the pressure dropped rapidly once the sensor voltage got up to around 3.1 volts; therefore, the pump would activate again and this cycle would keep repeating as long as the Prius was turned on. Therefore I decided to replace the brake accumulator and its associated resistor. I purchased a new brake actuator and its associated resistor from Toyota. The brake accumulator replacement went well but when I tried to locate the resistor to replace it, I was dismayed to see that the old resistor is very hard to access (even though I took most of the dash apart to find it).
In my 2006 Prius, the resistor is on the driver's side near the body and high up under the dash. I think I understand the reason for matching the resistor value with the resistance of the pump windings but I am going to use the old resistor and see how noisy the pump is. BTW I referenced Toyota website (TIS) for how to do the replacement procedure and now I am going to see how good AE software (latest version) is at bleeding the various components. This is FYI when replacing the brake actuator and wanting to know where this resistor is located and how difficult it is to access.
I have a 2010 Lexus LS460-L. It is a nightmare. I can drive it 100 miles or sometimes 800 miles, and then when I am stepping on the brake, all the brake lights come on and the brakes catch and release like a wave motion at speeds under 15 mph until the computer gets reset by the service department, and it is good for another 4-6 weeks, when it reoccurs.
I have had it in to Toyota 5 times. Computer diagnostics fails to find the problem. I have paid to replace the master brake control module (ECU) and the stroke sensor. I had it in to the Lexus dealer in Kansas City, and they said that their diagnostics failed to find the problem, and the "only thing they could think of" is to replace the wiring harness and of course they don't recommend spending that much money on it. I was skeptical, so I took it to the same dealer's other location, and the service man there told me that their diagnostic tests are "pointing to the wiring harness".
The battery gauge on my 2007 seems to be dropping much faster than it used to. I can back out of my driveway with full green, and be down to purple in two miles of <45MPH driving. It also seems to recharge faster, as if the 'window' of usable charge has become much narrower.
I took it in for the 45K service, and asked the dealer to investigate. The tech wrote that everything is fine, and that this behavior is normal because "this is deep cycle battery".
Two questions: If the main battery fails completely, will the car still be driveable or will I be stranded at that point?
The little 12V battery is still the original that came with the car. Could it cause the above symptoms?
Halogen Headlights keep failing on my 2007 Prius Hybrid. I'm starting a file on this because my headlights fail waaaaay too often. I first bought replacements from O'Rileys (don't know the brand) and one failed after only 3 months. . . they would not replace the bulb for free so I did buy one more bulb there. The next time I purchased two Philips bulbs at another parts store. The last ones I bought were from Napa Auto parts and I have to replace one of those. I am wishing I had kept better records because there have been more burned out low beam headlamps. . .never use the brights.
View 9 RepliesMy 2007 Prius (151,000 miles) just started making what sounds like a scraping sound when in motion. This does not happen every time I drive it. The dealership said I need to replace the brake fluid actuator pump.
He couldn't really tell me what would happen if I don't have it fixed. He said perhaps the power brakes would go out, or maybe the anti-lock brake system. Either way, I don't want to mess with possible brake failure. But the cost of this repair is so high, and my car already has 151,000 miles. I'd love to drive it to 300,000 miles if I can, but am I being realistic? I'm wondering if it's worth investing this much money in a car with so many miles.
The hydraulic lifts on the trunk of my wife's 2003 SC430 are failing.
View 14 RepliesSecurity alarm not working after replacing front drivers side actuator. Paid a local Mechanic to replace actuator and now the security alarm when you press the door lock twice on the door remote is not arming. When I press the door lock on the remote once, the doors lock. When I press it a second time to enable the alarm and to hear the horn nothing happens at all. Light doesn't flash and horn doesn't sound.
View 5 Replies