Lexus LS 2007+ :: All Lights On Dash Came On - Car Won't Start
Feb 17, 2013
I got into my car and pressed the start button. All the lights on the dash came on but nothing happened. I tried to jump start the battery. Nothing. I got a volt meter from someone at the club and found that the battery was fine. I called the Lexus dealer close to me. They told me it was the in the key. Just hold the key close to the start button and it will start. Did this and nothing. I did not get the indicator light that the car cannot find the key. Every time I press the start button, I hear on click from the engine then nothing. I think maybe the starter. I had the car toed to the Lexus dealer since I have the extended warranty. I changed the battery about two months ago after the car was dead late one Sat. night in a parking garage. But I jump started it and drove it home. Replaced battery and everything was fine until today.
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I got in my car today, put the key in, put my foot on the break, and pressed the start button, but instead of starting up, the start button turned orange, and 5 orange dash lights came on in the lower corner. I tried persistently to start it, and eventually it did try to start the engine, which worked fine. I drove around the block and then parked to see if I was going to have the problem again. This time the problem was more persistent the car never started again.
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Every so often when i start , the dash lights came on but no start,(no noise) second try worked but the radio reset to 1200 and bad date, this happens about every 20 starts. This truck have remote start...
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Shut my truck off, now it won't start. Turn key to start position all proper lights appear on dash. No clicks,no nothing. Replaced a relay which owners manual shown as starter solenoid, man at auto parts said it was fried. Put new relay in still no change. checked everything I could find w/ ignition,starter,solenoid ,etc. fuses relays, according to pictures in owner's manual, they all appeared to be ok. Never,ever had any problems with this truck and charging system is working,IE: battery isn't shot.
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A little over a week ago I had my battery go low and set off several brake warning lights on the dashboard. I have a very trusted mechanic and had him look it over. There were no issues whatsoever with the braking system and the lights simply occurred due to a drop in battery voltage. My question would be how to clear the lights. I have seen various people use something called a techstream and was wondering if this would be viable in my situation. If so what is the most updated version of the tech stream as well as a possible tutorial. Below for reference is a picture of the lights that were set off on the dashboard(circled). The dash isn't mine just one that I found but the four lights in question are the same.
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After I turn the car off the "PARK" light in the Dash stays lit for about 6 seconds after all the other lights have turned off. Is this normal?
I will advise, I have the parking brake set to auto and the car seems to be functioning normally.
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When lock button on the remote is pressed twice and held for 3rd time , lights flash but car won't start. I just put fresh battery in remote Haven't used remote start since last winter..
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I'm thinking the battery but I haven't got any dash light indicating low battery.
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So today, I started my Lexus Ls600hl and the lights were flickering and the car wont start. Then on the Dash it has the yellow ! icon and the lcd says Parking brake not available.... The car wont start. I tried disconnecting the battery etc. nothing. Then i jumped the battery and got it to turn on, but it says parking brake not available - see dealer for information. But the car runs fine and everything now - But i don't understand the warning, the parking brake wont engage anymore. I will take it to the dealer tomorrow to see what's wrong.
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2008 LS460...
This is what happened... After not driving the car for 3 cold days, the battery seemed dead...so i jump started the car with another car...and the car started, but started showing a bunch of warning lights... It says, check vsc, brake malfunction, check brakes, check abs...
So i ignored all the warning lights and decided to drive the car on the highway for 30 minutes to fully recharge the battery... After driving for 30 minutes with all the warning lights on, i parked the car and turned it off. Then i tried to restart it again after 5 minutes...and it won't start...
Could it be that it didnt charge the battery because of all the warning lights were on? Is the battery bad? I jumped started car again...but it didn't reset, still got all warning lights... Now turned the car off...and it's dead again...
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This has happened twice now and on the second time I hadn't started the engine and noticed that the lights had not gone out. I switched off and on again and the lights went out.
Only thing in common is the outside temperature was around 4dgs City.
Jumped in this morning, started the engine,* got out to clear the windows of dew, on getting back in I noticed the following lights on the dashboard,
- Traction control light on -stable
- Abs light on -stable
- Glowplug light - flashing
I immediately turned off the engine, waited a couple of seconds, restarted the engine and all the lights extinguished as they should. I then went on my merry way without further incident. Should I be concerned and get it checked or see if it happens again? It has now....
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2007 Prius with 105,000 miles, all was ok until after a few days when I went to the car, I unlocked with the remote key, put the key in, and nothing lights up or happens. The interior lights and headlights are fine, but nothing comes up on the dash, no amber/green start button, no radio etc.
I have attached a booster pack to the 12v battery but still nothing.
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My dash lights are very dim during daylight and marginally bright at night. This is for a 2002 Lexus SC430.
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Problem started within the last 2 days. Get in the car, insert key, turn to start car but the starter doesn't crank. All dash lights are on and I hear a clik when I turn the ignition key. Try it a couple of times and it finally starts. Here are the things I've tested:
1. Battery voltage reads 12.86V. Terminals clean.
2. I disconnected the ignition lead on the starter and connected a voltmeter between the ignition terminal and ground. Turned the key a dozen times and every time it read 12.4V. I'm thinking it may be the starter.
3. Remover starter and took it to a local auto part shop for testing. They say it works fine.
Now I am kinda stuck. I don't think it is the neutral safety switch as I saw 12V each time I turned the ignition. Nothing is completely ruled out yet. I suppose it still could be the safety switch
So I bought a new starter but I'm hesitant to put it in as I'm not sure that is the problem and want to be able to return it if necessary.
Put the old starter back in as I don't completely trust the part store testing. After everything assembled, I turned the ignition and no joy. Tried it a couple of more times and it started.
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Ok so first the battery light came on then all the other lights on the dash came on, ended up dying and we replaced the battery but the abs, esc break light and battery light still are on the dashboard. Also I can use the shift release to drive the car but other then that it is stuck in park. I was reading that the car has a atm but I don't know where its located.
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I'm having starter issues with my santa fe. After changing the battery and doing some trouble-shooting I narrowed my problem down to one of the relays in the engine compartment.
Almost every morning when I go to start my car the dash lights are dead and the engine wont turn over. I smack a bit on the relays it will start up and until today keep running for the rest of the day.
Tonight it stalled on me in traffic and I got to experience the enjoyment of smacking my relays on the highway. I am thinking either moisture or a faulty relay with intermittent signals might be the culprit.
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Having an issue with my wife's 2007 camry V6. We got the car new and the orig battery lasted over 3 years until a trip NY where the intr light was left on for a couple of days. After several tries, the battery took a jump from a tow truck and got us home. The car ran for a few days then we had starting issues as well as the dash lights would flicker and the speedo neelde would jump along with the RPM gauge. So we changed out the battery.
Now we only get about a year per battery. We also noticed the drained batteries are typically accompanied with misfiring and a bad coilpack. Not sure how that fits into the equation but we have changed 3 of the 6 coil packs. The most recent batt swap only lasted 7 months. The flickering lights and jumping RPM n Speedo needles happen last firday when my wife called me to say "its at it again" driving rough, ABS light, Ck eng light on and flashing.
She got home late and parked it in the garage. The next morning i went out to inspect and it wouldn't start. Fast clicking sound of a dead batt. I changed the battery (Costco batt fitment 24f i believe) yesterday (Monday). She called this morning and the car is still riding rough and the ck eng light is on. My guess is another coilpack.
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I have a very strange electrical issue and CarMax is unable to find the source.
Detail of issue: It started 2 months ago before i left the country i took my car in to get the dreaded valve gasket cover and alternator and after taking the car back i left for Europe for 2 months. I was informed after 2 weeks that my car battery died and had to be jumped.
When I returned home I notice the following issues
1) Alternator Whine in my Sound System
2) Low frequency noise synchronized with engine rev that was triggering the sub low end making a very distinct wooom.
3) Sudden Power Loss for my secondary AMP. The base would cut on /off.
4) Light flicker in my Dashboard (only the GEAR LED) and the entire climate LCD. flicker also synchronized with engine rev.
5) POWER drop on the air con fans while breaking (the RPM would drop)
6) I saw the headlights where also flickering at the same frequency with the LCD and dash led a very noticeable flicker.
7) my headlights would dim when breaking.
8) My Car would start a bit slower (not as instant as before).
Initially i thought it was the my secondary amp that was causing the issue. I took the car to a great Audio shop and they said the On board Hyundai amp was sending weird signals. They said it was broken and i should have it replaced. I told them to disconnect the AMP from the car and leave it disconnected until i take the car back to Carmax.
I was hoping that was the cause ... it wasn't the lights keep flickering (at a far lower intensity probably due to the lower power consumption overall).
What could cause all of this. Alternator I had the alternator replaced two weeks ago (apparently it was broken). I changed 3 alternators in this car. Valve Gasket, Valve Gasket(they were retarded and didn't listen to what i told them) and broken.
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I started the car this morning, plugged the phone charger into the lighter socket, noticed the charger light wasn't on, pressed the charger in tighter, the car started to run funny, then it cut off. Lights work, radio won't work, all fuses are alright upon several visual inspections. Car wants to turn over but won't start. I tried disconnecting the negative battery cable to see if the car would revert back to "normal". I have never had a problem with this car in the two years I've had it; the battery was purchased brand new in November of 2011. I unplugged the cigarette lighter to see if that would work but nothing so far. Could it be the ignition switch?!
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No brake lights or dash lights radio,headlights etc. Nothing.. Horn works and the emergency lights. A little red one at the start button is on sometimes. Tried jumping under the hood [+ tab} and checked the 12v battery and it checks good.
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My R ran just fine two days ago. I went out to start it this morning and I get all crank. No turn over not even a pop. Now, it is 3 degrees outside right now. I've started my car many times in the cold with no issue. Weird thing is all of the lights on the gauge cluster all flash at the same time. I have a code for a secondary o2 but that obviously is not the case. And yes the fuel pump did prime when I opened the door.
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