Lexus LS 2007+ :: Abnormal Driveline Drone / Vibration Between 55 - 65 MPH
Oct 31, 2011
My car definitely has a driveline vibration, but the steering wheel also vibrates. All vibrations are, however, intermittent as to when they come and go, and the intensity - on both the chassis and the steering wheel - can also vary.
Tires and wheels have been ruled out with 99.9% confidence at this point... What puzzles me is how a driveline issue in a rear-wheel-drive vehicle can affect the steering wheel (even though it can certainly explain the shaking of the whole car). In the end, it's all connected to the same body, but still... I am even wondering if my car has this driveline vibration PLUS something else (e.g., control arms in the front suspension appear to be a popular replacement part in these cars according to other threads).
Here is a link to the TSIB that I borrowed from another thread: [URL] ....
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On my 07' I bought it home mid AUG. It has been getting much worse to a point there is a rear driveline vibration at all speeds above 40 and up to 70. I used to change intensity whether you are on or off the gas, and would almost vanish if in neutral. However now it is all the time.
I cannot feel any play on the u-joints, the yoke has a little play in the xfer case but is is normal like on most other trucks I have owned, and the pinion flange is nice and tight. Could this be **tight** ujoints or the driveshaft itself? It looks rusty, but there are no dents on it.
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Truck is an '07 F350 Supercrew, 8ft bed, SRW, 2wd. I bought the truck last month and noticed a low frequency driveline vibration starting at about 45 mph and is noticeable to about 65 mph. Feels like a bad u-joint. So I pulled the drive shaft (two piece) and checked the joints. They seemed find so I sent it to a commercial truck shop that does driveshaft work. Had the joints replaced and the shaft rebalanced.
Re-installed drive shaft and went for a test drive. No real change in the vibration. The hangar bearing seemed fine so it wasn't changed. Doesn't feel like a wheel out of balance. My experience tells me its a drive shaft.
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2 days ago I was driving my car back home and suddenly Check VSC System" Warnings “appear on screen, it’s the first time gotten this warning displayed while driving.
I went to one of Lexus Maintenance repair agency and they started to do the Computer check and following that an error message showed “Abnormal Leak in Accumulator” and he showed me the location of that part on my car Part No 44510-50070 & PK031-353 and the price of this part about 1600$ the Engineer said! Or to go for a second hand one..! I did some search and find out that this part it is not that easy to be damage..
my car is LS 460 L 2007
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I have what seems to be flat spots on both my rear tires. I've been getting a drone sound and vibration from the rear end and thought it was bad wheel bearings, but when I had it up on the lift the tech said my rear shocks are bad and caused this tire wear. The shocks aren't leaking and the handling seems fine...I don't get it.
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2012 Camry SE 4 cyl, 56K miles ... Happens in all gears, in normal and sport mode “under light acceleration” at 1600-2000 rpm.
Sitting in driver’s seat I hear a drone which sounds similar to the engine lugging we hear briefly at around 1000 RPM. In the 1600-2000 RPM range it is very annoying because this is the cruising range on highways. Sometime when going up a slight incline it can be felt through the accelerator.
When seating in back seat on passenger’s side, it sounds similar to a bad muffler/resonator and is very audible. Spring loaded exhaust couplings in front of muffler and between front pipe and converter are not seized. All rubber hangers are there. Installed “B-quiet” sound absorber in trunk going from spare tire well over top of muffler and up rear quarter panel which did not work. Nothing is touching the exhaust under the car.
When idling the exhaust produces a noticeable putt-putt sound. Toyota rep (not dealer) went for a ride with me and feels it is typical of a car “for this mileage” (same as dealer told me). I stated it did not do it before and was told cars wear in and after a while characteristics change.
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It's NOT a truck. But my '97 Town car happens to use the same 4R70W transmission and 8.8" rear axle that the F150 from the same era used to use....
I'm troubleshooting what I first thought were bad pinion bearings in the rear differential. On the highway the car makes a shaking/growling kind of noise that fades in and out from 55 MPH and higher. Also when you're on the throttle there is a howling type of noise that comes from the rear of the car, the harder you're on the throttle the worse it is.
I got under the car convinced that my pinion bearings were shot, looking for the smoking gun. But I can't find any noticeable play on the pinion shaft of the rear axle. Slid on up to the front of the driveshaft and there's noticeable play on the extension housing of the transmission:
2013 12 27 19 06 40 - YouTube
Any chance this is causing my issue, or am I in for some expensive rear end work?
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I have a 2011 F150 ecoboost supercrew 6.5 ft bed. I have noticed a bad vibration/ grinding in the driveline, mainly after a long trip on the highway and coming to a stop and starting again. And it's noticeable at lower speeds. What this may be caused by. It seems like the rear end is binding but I have had the rear end checked and the level was good.
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I got my 77 ford truck w/four wheel drive half ton with a np435, 351M and i was wondering if a bad or worn bearing can cause vibration. i can feel it by the pedal when i accelerate from 50 to 65. I don't know if that's my trans or maybe the pilot bearing?
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Well Prii have always been a little "loud" under acceleration due to the CVT and small engine and minimal sound proofing, BUT We have 2 Priuses (Prii??), a 2011 with 41000 miles and a 2014 with 7k miles. My daughter got the 2011 to take to college. 1200 mile round trip so it made sense.
She maintains that for sometime, the 2011 is making more of the droning/roaring sound that a Prius makes when accelerating briskly. I did not really believe, her, but over holiday break, I had the opportunity to drive both cars more, and she is right.
The 2011 is clearly louder under acceleration. It also will develop a bit of a vibration at certain RPMs, even at very low RPM sometimes, when the economy bar is just beyond the electric mode.
The noise differential between 2011 and 2014 is most apparent at cold temperatures, but it does not resolve completely even with both engines fully warmed up.
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I have a 15 F250 CC SB 6.2 4x4 that is suffering from a driveline vibration. Had the shaft checked for balance and it was off. It's a little better now but still there. Checked all the angles and they're correct. Also came up with a curious observation that all CC SB 4x4's have a slip yoke driveshaft at the transfer case while all the other trucks have the fixed yoke. This appears to be my source of the vibration.
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My 2012 F250 6.2L (Gas) engine developed a noticeable drone/vibration when in drive between 1600 - 1800rpm. RPMs above and below that range is fine. But when accelerating, as soon as the RPMs reach 1600, you can feel a slight vibration through the gas pedal and a noticeable sharp draon/moan up till about 1800 or 1900 rpm, then its normal.
I took it to my ford dealer and took the service manager out for a test drive. He said that there is a drone and slight vibration withing that RPM range. He thought that the engine mounts may be loose. But aside all that, he felt something was off and wrote up the service order.
When to pick up the truck and now the service manager changes his tune and said that the drone is normal and happens on all 6.2L super duties.
To be honest, I have the feeling he is pulling my chain.
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I have a 1999 f250 SuperDuty with a nasty vibration That begins at about 70mph. The truck is an extended cab 5.4l Manual trans 4X4 with a one piece driveshaft (No mid bearing). The Vibration appears to me to be a driveline vibration that is speed dependent. It is the same in gear, out of gear clutch in or out. I have replaced the wheel bearings/hub assemblies on all four corners, completely rebuilt and balanced the driveshaft the driveshaft, removed the front driveshaft, put brand new tires mounted and balanced on all four corners, new clutch, had the flywheel turned and balanced, and replaced the transfer case output bearings. Pinion bearing feels tight and does not leak.
Also the Input in the trans felt tight when i had the trans out. The truck had the vibration when i bought the truck and still vibrates after i have done all of this work. i did not change the motor mounts because they looked fine. when i bought the truck the tabs on the extension housing holding the trans-mount to the trans were broken so i make a huge "exhaust clamp" to straddle the trans and bolt to the trans mount.
After driving the truck up north last weekend the truck seems to shake going taking of at lower rpm as if the motor mounts and trans mounts are bad. I guess my questions is can a bad trans mount, motor mounts cause this Vibration at highway speed. if so is there a way to fasten the trans-mount to the extension housing without replacing the extension housing. If not what else can cause this issue?
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02 CCSB, and I have a vibration in my driveline that's starting to drive me nuts on my commute every day. I can feel it faintly starting at about 45 mph, whether the torque converter is locked or unlocked. The vibration peaks at about 60 mph and goes away at about 65+. My u-joints are all moog and grease them every oil change (about 120k on them now). At this point I suspect the carrier bearing, yokes, or even u joints but there's not much play. However the rubber around the carrier bearing is in rough shape and dry rotting. I'm curious if there's a test I can do to find the culprit.
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Have 2008 Santa fe with a driveline hum noise. Originally thought is was a wheel bearing so I replaced what I thought was the suspect ones (1 in front and 1 in the back). Noise still there! Carrier bearing on the drive shaft? Front axle shaft? I'm at a lose.
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2007 Passat 2.0T, 48,000 miles
Essentially, I get a clunky/pop/crinkle sound from beneath my feet in the driver's side footwell. This sound/feel occurs when I either get back on the gas after slowing down but before the car fully stops or if I take my foot suddenly off the accelerator without touching the brake.
VW told me after three tries that the "noise is from the driveline changing directions, making some noise because loads are changing on the driveline when going from deceleration to acceleration" and that it was normal.
I have seen some posts about the subframe bolts either being faulty or worn on this site and other VW sites...
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Grease the tailshaft unit, or replace the entire shaft. I'll grease it tonight, what type of grease to use?
Lexus techs charge too much for parts/labour here, so i would like to attempt to sort this out myself.
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Read the owners manual and didn't recall this bit of info on crawl mode...It sounds as if your transmission/driveline is about to ruin itself. Sounds exactly as if the fan is hitting the shroud periodically. After years of ownership and 35k miles I decided to try the crawl mode....for about 20 secs. After a quick call to my service manager he assured me "that's the way it sounds."
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I am considering the purchase of a 2008 LS. After conducting research I've noticed that there is a common issue around an odd vibration problem at certain rpm and around control arm bushing's with these cars. I've also noticed that there is a common issue around air suspension issues. I based my conclusion around threads that seem to pop up constantly.
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Steering vibration coming right around 75 to 80 MPH? I have balanced my wheels 3 times to rule out that being the issue. Also the tires are in great shape. At speeds below or above it rolls smooth.
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So, I started my journey in getting vibrations out of my car at the dealer (I know, I know, but it's CPO) - had rotors resurfaced, brake job, fluid flushed etc. That worked with pedal pulsing etc.
Now, fast forward 6 months - still have a notable shake at times 40-45, 70-80mph indicated. Took it back to dealer; tires are shot - I figured just a rotate, balance and align would be the cure. I bit the bullet, put on some MXVs and got the car aligned - again, at the dealer. Old tires had the edges fully worn (outside).
Today, after a 200 mile drive, the vibrations are back, and I REALLY don't want to go back to my dealer a third time to resolve this - in addition to not wanting to destroy a brand new set of tires. Who can I turn to to get this under control?
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