Lexus LS 2007+ :: AWD Intermittent Vibration Coasting Downhill Around 60MPH
May 4, 2015
During an extended drive of the new ride today, we noticed an intermittent vibration when coasting downhill around 60MPH. I popped it in neutral and the vibration disappeared completely. Also, it stayed vibration-free when placed back in Drive, without touching the gas. But as soon as throttle is applied and then you coast again, the vibration reappears.
This points to a condition that only happens when the torque converter is locked, which could be a vibration originating within the transfer case that once coupled to the engine via the locked torque converter uses the engine as a tuning fork, resulting in the vibration. The L-SB-0013-12 AWD Vibration TSB mentions an ECM recalibration, which likely changes the torque converter to unlock whenever you lift off the gas pedal. Is this correct?
I also remember reading about the other TSB, where the "magic expensive fluid" in the transfer case gets changed 3 times in rapid succession. This would address chattering clutches within the transfer case, eliminating vibration at the source vs. masking it by unlocking the torque converter.
We also noticed a misfiring sensation under light throttle conditions at around 40-50MPH. I'm wondering if this is in fact the transfer case clutch chatter issue also...since the 60k spark plug replacement has already been done.
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I am a first time Toyota car owner. I bought a 2010 Toyota Corolla LE this past Saturday. It has only 42,000 miles on it, and I got a pretty decent deal on it! I'm still getting used to how the car drives, but it seems to be running great. The only thing I notice sometimes is that I am coasting downhill (not using the brakes) I notice a bit of a vibration sound coming from what sounds like the back windshield. If it keeps occurring, I might take it to the dealer for them to check it out. With my luck, the issue might not even happen though with them there.
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I just took delivery about 2 weeks ago of a 2011 LS 460L AWD with less than 30k miles. I have a very annoying issue that happens every time I let off the accelerator. There is a consistent vibration that seems to be coming from the drive train. It's really annoying to me. This occurs when driving about 50 mph or greater, nothing when driving at slower speeds. There is a 30 day exchange policy where I bought the car from, hope I don't need to use it.
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My 2002 v6 camry is shaking while braking on a downhill at highway speed 60mph. This started yesterday. Afterwards on level surface and lower speed no shaking. Late yesterday, again on highway downhill, more shaking.
I live on a mountain and do not notice the shaking coming down at 30mph, including yesterday.
A couple of months ago the pads were 75% and the rotors were resurfaced approx 4000 miles ago. And the rotors are the third pair if i remember correctly.
I bought the car new and it has 121000 miles on it.
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I'm getting some vibration and steering wheel shake with my '04 GX... I have a 2004 GX with the differential dynamic damper installed. About 55-60mph it starts, and shakes the steering wheel back and forth. Sometimes it's completely smooth, but on other road surfaces it shakes. On full "comfort mode," the shake is much worse, but on Sport mode it dampens the shake to about 10% intensity, but it's sometimes still there. This is not bump steer, by the way.
So far, I've done:
-Brakes
-Alignment
-Front hubs
-2x wheel balancing with 2 different sets of wheels/tires
-lubed the drive shaft and prop shaft to fix the clunk (Clunk TSB has not been done)
-changed the power steering fluid
-checked all control arm bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, and sway bar bushings. All are solid.
I recently jacked up the front end and moved the wheels back and forth by hand. It seems like there is some looseness coming front the inner tie rods. However, I pushed and pulled and can't get a clunk or anything. I think it's coming from inside the steering gearbox. My VIN says it's before ST002-05, so that TSB aka "Steering Flutter" would apply, if it is that.
After 104k, are the front shocks due for a change? It does seem to nose-dive a bit on braking, but the shocks aren't leaking or anything. Would worn shocks cause steering wheel flutter on these trucks?
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I have a 2010 Chrysler 300 Signature Series. I have taken it to 3 mechanics re: this issue but no one can find anything wrong. For work I park in a 5 story parking structure. When I'm leaving and driving our of the structure, "downhill" , I coast slowly between the turns and when I lightly put my foot on the accelerator to drive around the corners/turns there is a loud "clunk" and you can feel a little "jerk" in the car. It happens everyday but the mechanics can't reproduce the sound or the jerk. What this can be? It has happened only twice when on a flat surface, again in the parking lot, when I'm slowly coasting looking for a spot and then give it a little gas to drive forward.. the "clunk" and "jerk".
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Typically after driving for 5 minutes or so my temp gauge is in the middle at 200f. After about 15 min of moderate 35-45 mph driving it went down a notch below the 200 mark after it had reached 200f. I've noticed this happen a few times recently. I did notice that it happens while coasting downhill. I guess i'll be taking it it to my mechanic to take a look.
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This is on a 2010 GTI with 20K km.
I've noticed a buzzing noise coming from the front of the car whenever I coast downhill. Almost sounds like an off-tune radio. Noise gets louder as the car picks up speed, and becomes quieter as I brake. What can it be? I think I was in 3rd gear.
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So our car has performed flawlessly since 2005/135K miles. Still getting 55 mpg in the display in the summer, 45 mpg in the winter. Only issue is traction battery SOC quickly goes to full green when coasting downhill, and 1 or 2 purple bars when climbing. In Colorado, this happens a lot. Within a mile or so coasting downhill the SOC is full green. Question is: should I replace the traction battery? Is there any harm to continuing to experience this behavior? When full green, I realize I am using friction braking over regen braking, have actually felt the crossover from regen to the pads, as the SOC goes full green.
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The following issue has been stumping every mechanic that I have talked too. We have a 1948 Chevy with a 350 ram Jet and 700 R-4 transmission. The water temp while on the road runs about 180, and up to 195 in town. The following is the problem. When coasting down a hill it will periodically quit, like the key was turned off. I have to through it in neutral, start it, and then put in drive while rolling. It never has done it at idle, on straight a ways, or up hill. No, I can’t avoid going down a long hill sometimes.
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I got my grandpa's 84 ford f250 its been sitting in the barn for awhile but i drove it over to my house yesterday and it drove fine but you did have to push on the brake quite a bit but not to bad but today after school i took it for a drive around the block and i noticed that when i was going down hill just coasting i was slowing down a lot and my foot was not on the brake but when i got home my breaks were smoking pretty good but tomorrow i was going to take the front breaks off (its only the front two disk breaks doing this) and clean all the rust off them and put a little oil on the piston on the caliper that pushes on the break pads...
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I put on Cayenne 19" wheels with the high performance tires during my 5K checkup. After 4k more miles I noticed a slight vibration above 60mph, which normally indicates an alignment problem. As I never hit a large pothole or curb, I took it to my VW dealer, (VW of Springfield, VA). They managed to get VW to pay for the alignment, as my it was off when checked. Nice!!! My VIN # was 13,9xx.
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I have an 08 ES 350 and when driving and coasting between 20 - 60 mph, there is a rubbing, grinding, low frequency sound that I feel coming through the gas pedal. What is causing it?
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Recently we purchased a 2011 Avalon Limited. 2 weeks later while driving locally, I noticed a vibration in the car. The vibration appears approx 37-38 mph, and continues up to 60mph. At 70 mph the ride is vibration free. Our car is still under warranty, while at the local dealership, questioning the vibration, they notice a "code" for the transmission. They replaced the transmission. We still have the vibration.
The following week they "force balanced" the wheels. We still have the vibration, now it is stronger. I am almost ill with the vibration. I actually feel it, not just a visual issue. There is a Tech report on the issue, with another Avalon experiencing the same issues. What the issue could be? Michelin Tires. This is our 4th Avalon. We have owned a 96 XL, 2001 XLS (the best!!), 2006 XLS, and now, after waiting many years, I was able to purchase the loaded Avalon Limited. Only to have issues that make me sick when I drive it!
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Problem I have been noticing with my 2010 v6 Santa Fe.
I first noticed a vibration that appears to come from the drive train late last winter and only seems to happen on colder mornings. It comes across like I am driving on a rough road. If I am simply rolling without a lot of acceleration there is no vibration, but once I step on the gas and add power the vibration starts and will continue until I let off the gas. It is not an alignment issue as that has already been checked and eliminated as a cause.
Once the vehicle warms up, the problem goes away. This makes it very tough to demonstrate the problem as by the time I drive to the dealer the problem is gone. Guess Ill need to pick a cold day and leave it there overnight so they can see the problem. Had a very similar issue years ago on my old Nissan Pathfinder which was eventually traced to a the 4 wheel hub system.
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Our 2007 Grand Caravan with a 3.3 Liter Engine has intermittent vibration which feels similar to driving over rumble bars. It usually occurs between 30-50 mph but sometimes at 70-80 mph as well. Have had the suspension checked and had outer tie rod end replaced. Also had sway bar bushings replaced and front end aligned. We then brought it to transmission shop and had a transmission diagnostic performed. They found no faults with the transmission and thought the engine needed a tune-up which we did with no success. At a recent oil change, we asked for them to test drive it and check again for any suspension problems. They did not notice any vibration during the test drive and found no problems with the suspension.
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I have a 1998 Cadillac Seville STS which has recently developed an intermittent stalling issue. Here are the details:
Happens occasionally when I'm slowing down or coasting, such as turning into a parking lot or going around a sharp entrance ramp-Has not yet happened during acceleration-No bucking or jerking while accelerating-No apparent warning that it is going to stall-Has happened once each of my last two trips
The first few times it happened my fuel level was pretty low, and one of the times I tried several times to restart it and it would start but die right away. I managed to get it started again, then I filled the tank and tested the fuel pressure at the rail, and I got 45-50 psi with the key turned but without the engine running.
After that time, I have not had any difficulty restarting it when it stalls. I held the valve in basically the same position that it is installed (meaning I didn't turn it upside down) and sprayed in the opening with throttle body cleaner (not carb cleaner). I then used a "pipe cleaner" to clean the inside, and I also worked the plunger up and down after I sprayed it.
I had a few "false alarms" in the past thinking it was fixed, so I wanted to wait until I was sure before posting. I now have to lose the habit of constantly glancing at the tach to see if it's about to stall. It would be interesting to know why cleaning the EGR valve fixed it.
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So I'm used to the vibration coasting down from 110-115mph or so, I would mitigate it by applying light throttle. Recently it started coasting in the 75-80 range, then 70-80, and now it does it just plain cruising in that range as well. Nothing below 65, and nothing above 80 (coasting, cruising, or under load).
It's definitely a mechanical vibration, tires are fine, wheels are fine, wheel bearings are new... Thinking driveline u-joints? Don't have the money to throw parts at it unless they're the fix. I've consulted Christina's analysis chart and this is the only thing that makes sense so far.
No other symptoms anywhere else except those ranges. U-joints are, as far as I know, OEM originals. 276k miles seems like a hell of a life for them, especially with the abuse they've seen in the past 75,000.
I need to crawl under and give things a shake and wiggle, current condition is unknown. Left for a road trip to meet the wife's ex so he can have his time with his son, and the X was so bad at the aforementioned speeds that we turned around and swapped vehicles. It was worse this morning than it's ever been and I wasn't risking catastrophic failure with a zero emergency fund.
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I have recently developed a vibration between 30-45mph only when coasting. It smooths out when I tap the gas. The tires are less than a year old and I just put new manual lock out hubs hoping that would correct the issue, but it didn't. There's no clunk noise when in reverse or drive but occasionally when I get on the gas there's a short squeaking noise.
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Was on driving doing maybe 50-60mph and suddenly heard this loud pop coming from my roof. Sounded like something exploded.
At first I thought someone had actually landed on my roof!! Saw debrises flying off my roof from the rearview mirror.
Open the sunroof shade and realized a huge hole in the middle of the sunroof!! I had to close it cuz the smaller pieces of glass were falling. What would've happened if I had the sunroof open?
I've read somewhere that the NHTSA is investigating Scion's sunroof shattering. Wonder if this is related to Scion's??
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I like to drive with cruise control engaged but I find I can't do that in my new (well, 182K 2005 6.0L) Excursion. It's holds speed just fine, but if I top a rise and start going downhill - basically when no effort needed to maintain speed - it starts chugging and shaking the whole truck real bad. It feels and sounds bad, can't be good for it (or so I've assumed in my head). It's a real staccato feeling as if fuel is being applied less than a second, stopped, reapplied. Is this something unique to the diesel (my first diesel), an issue with the cruise control (vacuum, electronic?), or what?
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