Lexus LS 2007+ :: 2010 - Car Won't Start After HomeLink Sync
Jul 24, 2015
I am a proud owner of a 2010 Lexus LS460. Before that I had a 2005 LS430 for 5 years. Finally signed up for the forums and I am excited to be part of this community. I linked my garage opener with the HomeLink in my Lexus. I believe I might have not done it correctly the first time and I left my car. When I came back my car barely turned on (took about 20 seconds). I drove to work and then I was unable to start the car at all. I jumped the car and it started right away. I proceeded to finish the HomeLink sync correctly. I woke up today again and my car will not start, I had to get it jumped again and this time it took about 10 seconds to start.
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I was able to program my GX into the garage opener but it deletes my Camry. As soon as I program the Camry it deletes the GX. Strange. I was able to have both cars when I had the ML320.
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2009 ES350. Yesterday, I came back from work to see that our garage door was left open all day then in the middle of the night, I saw that it was opened again. Luckily, nothing was taken from our garage. When I checked the homelink button, it was jammed in (stuck) which most likely is causing this. When I tested the button, it keeps getting stuck.
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Just picked up an 08 460L with navigation and was looking to sync my Motorola Droid X. I have successfully paired the phone for voice communications using the instructions in the manual but when I go to transfer my phone book the car just says transferring. I left this for about 10 minutes and no numbers moved. The phone says Paired for audio is this would be my guess as to why this isnt working. Any tips to get my numbers imported?
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2007 6.0l cranks but no start. Read all the forums and I think I performed all the checks. Getting a ficm/ cam sensor/crank sensor no sync. I'm also getting 84.70% at the ipr while cranking. Do I have multiple problems? Watched videos on either the ficm or ipr percentage but not one that had both problems. Getting injector clatter and fuel pump runs. Didn't see anything obvious with the harness.
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I would like to install a Homelink mirror with compass on my wife's 2015 3, but a search on here is not coming up with much info on this install on the newer vehicles. It does seem like I found a post where the mirror that was purchased would not work for some reason. I did one on our 2011 (purchased new in 2011) when we bought it and I was able to find enough info to feel comfortable buying a mirror on E-bay and being sure it would work. Anyway, I guess I would like to know if the mount on the windshield is still the standard wedge mount and if there is anything else I need to know/watch for.
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I am trying to install an auto dim mirror. The listing said it was OEM from a 2010 -2012 Prius.
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I pulled it out last week to fix my aftermarket reverse monitor, so when i pulled the console i tested the light make sure i didn't screwed up anything. Then it was turned on for 2 seconds and slowly died. Since then, none of the button work !!! no sunroof, no homelink, nothing.
I've checked fuse already, 27, 35, 36 I believe. i replaced them all, still not working.
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Question about my mom's 2010 ES350.
This morning, it wouldn't start. She tried it a second time, and it started. But...
Upon every subsequent start-up, the LCD in the gauges displays "CHECK COMPLETED".
Car runs and drives fine, otherwise. The security light does go off like it should.
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My wife called and said her ES350 couldn't start. I told her to wait 5 minutes and tried again. It still wouldn't start.
So I went there and tried to start the car. My first try did not work either. I noticed that the brake pedal couldn't be pressed down. It was quite stiff. So I pressed hard on the brake pedal and tried again. This time it started. It has been working fine since then.
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I pulled out into traffic and let the RPM's get up there (6500 rpm's) and now I've seemed to have developed a weird ticking sound that is in sync with my rpm's. What could I have popped/broken? Rocker arm? I have the SUV sitting in the driveway and it makes the ticking sound whose interval increases as the rpm's increase...?
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Why this is happening...... I lock my doors and the gas door pops open. It's like the locks are out of sync.
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I have bought a new key for my 2010 Corolla. But i can't seem to find a reliable source that has the process in order to sync my new key to my car. Does what the process is to sync my new key?
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I have a '10 Focus SE I got used about three months ago. I updated the Sync software to the then-current version. I connect my iPhone for both phone and music via Bluetooth.
Every now and then, with no pattern I can determine, when I get into the car and turn it on, the music system immediately plays the FM radio instead of connecting to my phone and playing the music where it left off when I last got out of the car.
I am turning Bluetooth on on the iPhone before I get in the car, and I'm turning it off after I turn off the car and exit it, so it's not a matter of BT from the phone not being available.
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Just replaced both inside and outside temperature sensors because my AC was out of sync with what the temp was reading on the dash AC....seem to work for me...I'm also including some picks on locations...about a 30min job.
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Truck Details:
2004 6.0 F250 extended cab.
Mileage: 1,162,000 Kilometres (the dash stopped at 999,999)
Egr is deleted.
Motor has approximately 120,000 miles on it.
The previous owner delivered campers with it. He said that almost everything in had been replaced except the transmission.
I've had an intermittent crank, no start since I've owned the truck. (2.5 years) It's only happened maybe 5 times and the second attempt was always successful....until yesterday morning.
It threw a few codes but none I believe related to the no-start. One code for a transfer case issue, one for a turbo under-boost, one for the ac clutch not communicating, one for the exhaust pressure sensor not communicating. I would list the actual code #'s but after the first scan I reset them due to my ignorance.
While cranking I get the following numbers:
FICM LPWR- 11 to 12.5 volts
FICM MPWR- 47.5 to 48.5 volts
ICP v- up to 1.8 volts
ICP pressure- up to 1493 psi
IPR %- 15 to 55%
No FICM sync
No ckp/cmp sync
RPM- 0 to 60 and fluctuating
FUELPW- 0.00 ms
I've checked hertz across the red and orange wire at the centre plug of the pcm while cranking and i believe it tested good at 1.4 hertz. The batteries are both getting old and I plan on replacing them but the voltage seems adequate.
The following Forscan tests all checked out good.
PCM KOEO
PCM KOEO injector electrical
TCM KOEO
There were a few others but I think they're irrelevant and they checked out good anyway. I've visually inspected for chaffing but I need to look harder still. There were definitely no codes regarding the cpm, ckp or ficm. Based on what I've read, the fluctuating rpm reading should point to something I'm not aware of.
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2004 6.0 Truck has been slow to start and sometimes took a few tries to get it to fire up. On monday the Truck would not start. The FICM was not getting sync. I figured it could be a bad connection to the FICM. I pulled the FICM, cleaned the contacts and reconnected it. The truck fired up. It ran all day Tuesday without incident but wednesday morning it would again not start. Again what was missing was FICM sync. This time disconnecting and plugging back in the FICM did not fix the problem. I have spent the last two days troubleshooting and am out of things to try.
The problem as it stands right now
The truck will crank but not start. Scanner says it has oil pressure, a steady 48v (FICM has new power supply). The IPR sits around 50% when cranking at 1200psi. However, the FICM will not get sync. I have worked my way down and tested both the Cam and Crank sensors from the PCM. The Crank sensor has a resistance of 360 ohms and produces a AC voltage of 500mV when cranking. The camshaft sensor produces 100mV AC when cranking (camshaft sensor was replaced as the original produced AC voltage seemed low 20mV, new sensor produces 100mV). I have tested the camshaft sensor at the sensor and at the PCM connector. This has lead me to believe both the cam and crank sensors are ok and their signals are being probably transmitted to the PCM.
I have tried to check the inputs to the FICM to confirm the signals are getting there. I was unable to find a good pin out diagram for the 2004 FICM but what I found told me the crankshaft was pin 5 and the camshaft was pin 10. When cranking, pin 5 (crankshaft) did not produce a signal and pin 10 (camshaft) had a 200mV DC signal. Despite searching I have been unable to find what the input signals to the FICM should be.
Right now I suspect bad wiring between the PCM and the FICM, or a bad PCM. This is based on having good signals to the PCM, but (what I think may be) a lack of crankshaft pos. sensor signal to the FICM. I am specifically looking for what the crank/camshaft pos. sensor signal at the FICM should be, as well as confirmation/disconfirmation on the diagnosis of bad PCM or PCM-to-FICM wiring
Truck Details
Ford F350 King Ranch 2004 6.0
Truck build date 11/18/2003
350,000 km
Studded
New FICM power supply
Stock truck; don't run any tunes
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Car battery was dead, got a new battery from Walmart and replaced.
After that, from time to time, the engine would not start when pushing the start button, sometimes it takes 2 or 3 tries to get the engine to start. This has never happened before.
What is the reason for it, could it be that the walmart battery is not as powerful as the previous LEXUS battery? or something else?
By the way the car is due for an engine oil change with the warning light on. I use Mobile 1 fully synthetic 0w20 and the light went on every 5000 miles.
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When lock button on the remote is pressed twice and held for 3rd time , lights flash but car won't start. I just put fresh battery in remote Haven't used remote start since last winter..
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2008 ls 460 won't start when I press brake and start engine button. Car battery is strong. Tried two different keys. Start engine button has green light and when push all dash lights come but engine does nothing. Tried holding Lexus emblem on key next to button and pressing unlock button on key several times. Nothing?
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about 18 months ago my 2008 LS 460 wouldn't start after numerous attempts and displayed an error saying "Check VSC...". While waiting for the tow truck, I hit the start again randomly and bam! car started up.
The next morning, the car started up great again so I drove it to the dealership and told them about everything that happen. They said it was probably a bad battery. They changed out the battery (it was 26 months old) and said everything would be fine. A couple weeks later the car would jump and lurch during slow speed accelerations so brought back in. Nothing could be replicated so took car home. Car kept acting up and went to another dealership. After having the car for 3 days the mechanic replicated the issue and said a chip needed to be reset. After that....LS was back to great self.
Then today, car won't start and get "Check VSC..." error message. It's Sunday afternoon, so just called auto parts store and get new battery. Put new battery in and "Check VSC...." error message gone, BUT car still won't start.
When push button, hear one click and then nothing. All the lights come on, AC can blow, stereo can play, but car just sits there. Checked the battery cables for corrosion and while there was a little on the old battery the cables look good.
Is there any type of reset I can do that needs to happen after changing the battery or anything like a Windows reboot that can happen? I get the sense this is all computer issues and not actually anything mechanical. My LS only has 87k miles and has followed all the maintenance recommended so I'd really like to break 15 years or 200k miles .
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