Lexus LS 2007+ :: 2008 - Shuddering On Deceleration
Nov 27, 2013
I have a new-to-me 2008 LS600hl I recently purchased with just over 60k miles. When I test drove the car I noticed some vibration that the dealer and I presumed to be tires or even warped rotors, however after a balance and resurface (they paid for) the problem persisted. I then set out to isolate it further my getting up to 60mph and letting the car coast down to 35 several times. There is a very pronounced shudder in the driveline- almost like a washboard road effect, most noticeably as it drops through the 40's mph. I can completely eliminate this if I drop the drivetrain in neutral- therefor it has to be in regeneration or the transmission.
That said, the dealer had a Lexus engineer look at it. His assessment was uncertain, as there are no other LS600's around to compare it too. They would like the problem to be more pronounced so that they can be sure where the problem is coming from and asked me to drive it an additional 5000 miles.
The mechanic and service tech agree with me there is a problem, but are now somewhat bound by their engineer telling them to wait 5000 miles. I'd really like to have something else to support my claim. The car has a week of warranty left on the drivetrain when I purchased it- so the problem is documented.
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My truck was shuddering in od. So as I last effort thinking it might be injectors I pulled all of them and replaced all of the orings and valve cover harnesses. After all of this was done seemed to do nothing at all. Now a new problem has surfaced. It's having idle problems. It will now idle at 780-850 instead of 650-700rmps. Also on deceleration it will miss pretty bad. Checked all of my injectors again all connections are good and all of the injectors are tight. Not burning any oil. So I unplugged the icp and bam runs like a top perfect running engine. So I bought a new one and plugged it in and itake doing the same thing. So what is going on! Also it was throwing a random check engine light but wouldn't bring a code up I'm completely lost....
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2011 LX57O. There is one moderate annoyance with it: its brakes. The pedal travels about 2" before I can feel any meaningful braking or deceleration, and after those 2" the braking force becomes quite disproportionate to the additional pedal travel, may be another 0.5", it brakes quite hard. So, it has become increasingly difficult to brake consistently. Dealer service has told us "this is normal."
We had the brake fluid changed twice already, and pedal feel improves noticeably after each change and gets worse from that point on. Our 2000 model Land Cruiser pedal feel is superb, all stock, and it is much more rewarding to drive and drive consistently.
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Those with AWD model LS's and shuddering transmissions. Don't go into the dealership barking orders. Just mention that you "think" your car is suffering from this condition and that you would like it checked. Certain conditions have to be met with the vehicle so plan on leaving it with the dealer for the day if possible. It has to be driven with the scan tool connected and recording live data. So this is NOT something you want to drop-in unannounced for.
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Getting backfire or popping noise after deceleration with our cars. It didn't do it before with oem exhaust, just wondering if we're going to get a little bit from my new joe z exhaust, or do I have a leak somewhere with my installation. Or do I just need it break in a little more. How do I check for leaks , Do I just need to ramp the car and check all the flanges for where the exhausts bolts up and check for alignment issues.
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2008 5.4L ...I started a thread before concerning my tranny shuddering while in OD. It did it before and after a tranny rebuild. That's when I learned of the common problem of a bad coil pack not allowing trans to lock out into OD. Yesterday I took the truck to a shop to have it scanned. I was hoping to find out which cylinder is the problem. No fault codes were found. Now the mechanic thinks its the tranny, and the tranny guy(who has had the truck twice) says its a coil pack. I can change it if I can figure out which one it is. Do I have anymore options left to find the bad coil pack, or am I left with changing them all.
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I bought a 2011 Santa Fe in September and now that winter has set in up here, I find that when approaching a stop sign and there is black ice, I noticed that when you press on the brakes, it shudders. Almost jumps if you know what I mean. I've never had this experience and scared the crap out of me the first time. Is it normal? The only time it does this is when the wheels lock and slide on the ice. The brakes? I think then shudder. This is the first Hyundai I've ever owned and love it so far.
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My boss drives an '08 F-150 with a 5.4. The other week he had a horrid shuddering issue, misfire, and some known transmission issues so he took it to a shop. Supposedly the heads were pulled, heli-coiled, #7 coil was replaced, new plugs, trans rebuilt...a whole laundry list of stuff was done. He comes to me with complaints of a shudder in OD in low RPM primarily and a flashing check engine light with a #7 misfire code. I popped the hood to find no coil had been replaced (mechanics around here are REAL sketchy) so I told him to change up a new coil and I would throw it on to see if that fixes the issue.
Other than that, smooth idle and decent power with no shuddering except once in a while just coming into OD in low RPM...so around 40~ish and not throttling it hard. If he gets into it and blasts through the gears it has no shudder. I said the miss could be the whole issue, starting with the plugs and known misfire coil (#7) would be a good place to start.
A quick inspection in ~10 degree snow showed me the heads do not look like they were removed. The mechanic steam cleaned the engine, so looking for smudgy prints won't work. I know on older Fords the head gaskets stick out a little past the heads...do they on these too? He is questioning if the engine was even touched, and rightfully so in my opinion. Pulling the plugs would be the next step, but I need heat and tools for that.
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2007 Camry LE. This morning while driving, she noticed a shuddering that scared her. She called me and parked the car as soon as she could. I went to drive it around and, as she had said, it was shuddering.
I drove it for a bit, neighborhood and highways, and took note of everything. The RPMs were low - About 500. I'm not sure where it usually idles, I rarely drive this car, but my Jetta idles around 900 so this seems strange to me. RPM gauge occasionally bounces around at idle. Once the car gets moving there are no issues. Only at complete stop. It feels like the car is about to stall.
I drive a manual and if I keep it in gear while approaching a stop it makes the same shuddering because the RPMs are too low for the selected gear. This is what it reminds me of.
Here is a video of what's going on under the hood. As you can see, the airbox is vibrating heavily. That's the most obvious place. The engine and intake manifold are also bouncing around, but it's hard to see in the iPhone video.
Video ... ... ...
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I have a 2007 6.0L 4x4 it has 225k on it. I just had it into the dealer this past week (which we just purchased end of June) they replaced back pressure sensor and #7 injector. Now when you get to about 70-75 on incline it is decelerating and hesitate and looses some of its power.
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E brakes were sticking so I took off wheels, rotors, calipers, and cleaned the E Brake caliper and lubed it. Started driving and E brakes are still sticking? What gives? Could the cable be hung up? Wonder if I should replace the E brake cables.
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Over the past few months I've noticed that my truck has a very intermittent shudder under mild acceleration. If I accelerated more during the shudder it seemed to disappear until I let off the peddle a little. When it happens the truck doesn't seem to be lacking power and the engine throws no codes. It happened again today right as I had stopped at a red light. I noticed that it was shuddering at idle too. I shut the truck off at the intersection and the shudder was gone once restarted. What it may be?
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My girlfriend said her 2008 GX has been acting weird recently. When in park, if the engine is revved, the RPM's don't drop after letting off the gas. The RPMs do eventually drop but it takes a few seconds and it doesn't do it smoothly. The vehicle also maintains a pretty constant speed while driving and letting off the gas with very little deceleration. Is this normal for this vehicle or could something be wrong with it?
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So, I have Stoptech rotors and brakes, and it squeals when (a) it's warm after a few minutes of driving and (2) only when I initiate braking softly to slow down, but disappears after braking firmly to stop. Brake pads have about 80% left on them.
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I just bought a used 2007 Santa Fe Limited. It has 78,000 miles on it. I have gone bumper to bumper looking for problems and am pretty happy about the condition. HOWEVER, I have noticed a shuddering/bobbling, fairly faint, when going over slightly rough roads a low speeds. The tires are shot. But they are all exactly the same ... meaning the same wear more so on the outside. I believe they were rotated properly, but something is wearing the outside prematurely. Is the shuddering/bobbling the culprit? What is the most common issue for the Shuddering/bobbling at low speeds on slightly rough roads?
Next, I want a quiet ride. Handling is not a concern. Should I go with a slightly wider tire or slightly taller tire? Lastly, I need new mats. I want them to be the same as what came with the car. Do I have to go to the dealer or are there some vendors with better deals on factory mats.
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I have a 2005 f150 4x4 with a 5.4 it was studdering on the highway under light load, i changed the plugs and coils it worked great for a day now working worse and giving a misfire #7, so i swapped the injectors around still misfire #7.
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I have a 2007 Honda Element. When I am driving at slower speeds (<20mph) and turn sharply the vehicle shudders very hard. What is causing this?
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2006 F150, 4.6 V8 ... My truck was running fine until one morning I was sitting in the truck giving it my customary 30 second morning warm-up and it starting running very rough and quickly threw Check Engine LED.
I hooked up my laptop and got the following error codes: (To assist with future searches, the error codes are P0302, P0303, and P0353)
It seemed to drive fairly well, but low RPM torque causes major shuddering, so I try to keep the revs up to avoid damaging other components. The first step was to replace the spark plugs. They looked to be original and I'm at 140K on the truck, so it's probably time.
I went with Bosch Platinum as the factory plugs were platinum. When replacing the plugs, I moved the coil pack from cylinder 2 to cylinder 3 to determine if the problem would move. After the plug swap, the engine did run noticeably smoother (so the plugs worked overall), but still had the low rpm shudders and the same error codes (after clearing them).
Unfortunately, the error codes still indicate cylinder 2. I guess a misfire could be related to the fuel injector as well, not firing at the right time or not a complete spray, but what else could cause this?
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My new to me 04 4.6 shuddered and misfired really bad last week, got couple misfire codes. I changed plugs which were really bad, like burnt out to .080, got a HEI ignition tester and got a healthy spark from all the coil packs. Drove it today and ran much better but still would shudder under acceleration when cold, wasn't as bad when warmed up but still noticeable. I thought if I got a spark with the tester that means the coil is ok? or is that not the last word in coil health. Or should I look somewhere else like injectors ? Haven't got any codes since plug change.
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2005 GX470 transmission shuddering. While lightly driving, I feel a shudder at approx 35 mph, then again at 45 mph. I took it to the local Lexus dealer to have them analyze. Would you believe I could not get it to shudder when the mechanic went for a ride-along. Meanwhile, I'll just wait until the problem gets worse then bring it back in.
The mechanic mentioned Lexus had problems with the LX a few years back with transmission shuddering, but not with the GX.
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I have a new to me 2005 F150 SuperCab Lariat 4x4 with 155,000 miles on it. About a week ago I replaced the from passenger hub assembly and half shaft (torn boot). When doing that, I noticed that the IWE actuator was not working right (would not compress evenly). When taking that off, there was a bunch of rust that came out of the vacuum line ports. It started moving freely after cleaning all of that out that I could (I will be replacing it soon). I assembled everything back together and all seemed OK mechanically.
I also scanned the truck and saw the code for a bad IWE solenoid so that is being replaced tonight. I also have not checked the drivers side yet.
So...now that I have done all of that, the truck started occasionally bucking/shuddering when I slow down from highway speed to about 30mph and lightly accelerate again. It does not do it every time though. There is no grinding/whining noises either. Could this be caused by the IWE system somehow? Maybe slowing losing vacuum and having one engage and the other disengaged?
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