Lexus IS 2014+ :: Turn Off The Engine But Keeping The Electronics Running
Mar 9, 2016
I have a 200t and was wondering if there was any way that you can turn off the car's engine, but keep the electronics running. Right now when I put it on park and i press the engine on/off button itll turn off all my electronics.
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I've tried to lock the car as I walk out while on and it just does a long beep and it doesn't lock.
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I have posted separately about my 'supposed' dead HV dead battery. The charge was down to one bar and the the system didn't allow ICE to start for recharge. I finally got a reading of a about 207 volts today and when I fiddled with the start button on and off a few time today, the ICE started. After about 15 sec.
It indicated it was pumping juice into the battery. When it finally got up to about 4 bars it turned off. I had to move the car off the tow dolly (it's home for the past week) and did so in electric mode even though there was a Ready on the display the engine never came on. Before maneuvering it around much I tried to get the ICE to start again to recharge the battery, now down to 2 bars.
By pressing the gas in park and neutral, it would start and rev up but never generated any power to the battery. Fiddled around with the power button some on/off/on, etc. until I got the ready light and sometimes it would start charging but only once did it charge to 6 bars and usually stopped as soon as there were 4 bars.
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I know that if you hit the engine button without the brake pedal pressed when you get in the car you can turn on electronics (radio, navigation etc) without turning on the engine. I want to know if it's possible to go from the engine being on directly to electronics on mode without turning the car off and then turning them on.
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OK, I have looked everywhere I can think to look and can't fined anything on this. Dash lights how do you turn them off with the engine running. This is on a 2012 f150 xlt.
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I've been having a few problems with keeping my ipod connected with Entune. I was working fine but lately the ipod screen keeps saying loading. Then when I switch to another source like FM, then back to Ipod, I also get a "Function not available" screen. The only thing that has fixes this is to hard reboot my ipod, and turn off the car and restart.
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I've noticed a noise coming from my car (2014 IS350 RWD) that sounds like a light, irregular rattle, when the engine is running in the 3500 - 4500 RPM range. I don't hear it necessarily under load, but if I am in manual mode in a lower gear, and let off the throttle, I can hear it.
The best way I can describe the noise is like a bowl of rice crispies (rapid and random), only slightly louder. You have to listen for it, the road/traffic should be quiet, and if you get back on the gas, the intake noise that's plumbed into the cabin pretty much covers it up. I can also hear it in Park or Neutral.... I've wondered if it's a loose heat shield, or an exhaust issue, but I can't hear it standing next to the car or with my head under the hood. I only hear it from the cabin. The rhythm of the noise is irregular.
I don't think it's ping/detonation, since that usually shows up under load, is much louder and has a decidedly metallic sound to it compared to what I'm hearing.
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I would like to tachometer to slide to the right by default so I can see the extra menus and pop up displays. Every time I start my engine, I need to press the menu button on the steering to slide the tachometer to the right and when I turn off the engine, it automatically slides back to the middle. How can I keep it set to slide to the right by default?
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So after installing my JoeZ axle back for about 5k miles I noticed there was an issue. The check engine light was going on but turning off randomly. I finally decided to take the car to the dealer for them to check out. So what the dealer said is that the JoeZ exhaust "direct bolt-on bolts" restricted flexibility and caused leaks in the front cats. He said that the stock exhaust screws had the springs on it to allow flexibility when hitting dips/potholes. With that said, He recommended switching the front two gaskets and using the stock "spring screws."
I was wondering, encountered this problem with the bolts that came with the JoeZ axle back? I bought the JoeZ off a user here and it came with bolts, which i assumed came with the exhaust when it was purchased new. Not even sure if the bolts he gave me was correct, or if i just made the mistake of not using stock bolts.
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Is there any way to keep the front white LED lights on with the driving lights?
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So, my dad's 2000? B5 V6 Tiptronic won't start reliably. He says that when he turns the key, all the electronics come on, but the engine does not turn over. It sounds to me like the starter motor is dead. Does that sound right?
I looked around Vortex but I couldn't find any DIY for this. Does one exist? Or is it so straight forwards that I should just go for it in the driveway? I changed one in my 96' Jetta 2.0 and one of the bolts went into the motor mount, the engine almost fell on me.
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I just got a 2014 Camry SE a few months ago. I have a couple of questions. First of all, I need to know how to turn off the daytime running lights when the engine is off and I'm just parked and listening to the radio. The lights seem to be on any time the ignition switch is in any position except off.
And secondly, is it necessary to use synthetic engine oil instead of good quality regular oil of the correct viscosity? Will it affect the warranty, how about the oil change interval, etc.
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So Ive been having really annoying electrical issues with my Jetta. Everything works fine when driving, but sometimes when I turn it off after driving for about 20 min, the car electronics will not turn off and the engine will continue to run for about 7 seconds with the key out of the ignition and then sputter to a stop. The electronics do not turn off after the engine has stopped. I ripped apart the interior to look at relays and the ignition switch. They all look fine and they look like they are grounding fine. Do you think it might just be a bad ignition switch?
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Is there to keep the car on an particular mode all the time? I prefer driving on Sport mode but everytime I restart the car; it defaults to normal mode.
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This is new to my wife and I and I can't seem to keep the LED's on while driving during the day? I have the stalk set to AUTO and during the day time nothing is on and we want the LED's on during the day. They will come on when I manually turn on the headlamps. I'm sure it's some setting.
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Purchased a 2014 is350 f Sport and noticed the led daytime running lights don't match. One side is warmer and one side is cooler in color, could this be a issue with the whole headlight or a fuse? The license plate light too is yellow color on the same side.
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I had my navigation system reboot yesterday and since then, when the headlights go on, the navigation screen dims rather than stay in daytime mode (brighter). How to keep the navigation screen on daytime when headlights go on?
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My 1999 lexus rx300 first threw a P1135 following a P0125, I tested the sensor and it was open at the heater circuit then then I was waiting the new part in the mail and during that time it kept running rough and then it threw a P0300, P0301, P0305, P0303. I was thinking that the PCM cannot monitor A/F ratio without the sensor so maybe the injector base pulse width was good enough. The misfire is are on bank 1, same as the bank 1 A/F sensor.
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Does the engine turn on and off frequently lead to a lower engine life? I have always heard that the biggest wear on an engine happens when it is turned on. If the oil is draining from the Prius engine each time stops it seems like there would be a lot of engine wear.
Does the Prius (2010) engine have some way of keeping the engine lubricated when it is turned off?
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When I drive the PiP in EV Boost mode, the gas engine rpm stays very low, so is the engine sound. It sounds like it is just idling since it revs at 1,000 rpm.
When I am going 75 mph, the engine revs at very low rpm and I had a hard time keeping it below 80 mph. My mind is tricked into believing I am going slower than the actual speed. I think I am using the sound of the engine to judge the speed or something.
It felt like I am driving a different car, one with two more cylinders.
EV Boost is when you are in EV and go above 65 mph. ICE comes on and blend gas with electricity.
Is it just me? What are your experience in the EV Boost / Blended mode?
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I have a 2014 Lexus ES300h. I just started noticing that after 2 to 4 hours after turning the car was turned off, I am finding what sounds like the electric motor running. There is a buzzing sound. I can turn the car back on for a few mins and then back off, the electric buzzing sound goes away.
Since owning the car, I've never found the car buzzing. It sounds like the electric motor is charging the batteries. Do I need to have this checked? I have 28k miles on my car and have never had an issue.
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