Lexus IS 2014+ :: Sulfur Egg Smell Under Hard Acceleration
Mar 7, 2016
So with the warmer weather, I've finally had a chance to drive my car spiritedly (2015 IS350). However, I noticed that under full throttle for about 5-10 seconds, I get a sulfur smell after I let off the gas. I thought maybe it was the gas (I've only put in Shell V-Power 91 in this car) so I drove the car until it had less than an eighth tank, then put in Petro Canada Ultra 94. So far, I've driven about 80 km on the new tank but I still smell a sulfur smell after hard acceleration.
I never noticed this smell last summer, so I assume it's related to something that's changed. So far my car is still 100% stock so the only culprit I can think of is gas. It is possible that I never noticed it before though because you can't smell it when the windows are closed with AC on, which is usually what I do in the summer.
It could be the "winter blend" gas that gas stations have right now?
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Are my cats bad already? Have the rotten sulfur smell when they get on it? I have headers installed with stock exhaust, 08 with 24k miles. Smells real bad when I get on it. I have the Magnaflow 59955 metal cats coming in tomorrow.
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The sulfur smell is due to poor exhaust design. The muffler outlets are not extended far enough out to dispense exuast from under the vehicle. I will be trying pipe extensions ... 2008 LS460 38,000 Mi...
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I have a sulfur smell in my 05 since new, it now has 23k and is a little better now. The dealer said to switch gas stations. I haven't noticed this. I notice it going up hill with the top down sometimes but mainly after parking it in the garage. The dealer said it would not hurt the car. I worried that it is running too rich and damaging the coverter, plus it is annoying. I love the car but it sure isn't perfect.
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I have read that the IS (or at least some versions of it) pump engine noise into the cabin during hard acceleration. Is this on all models or just F-Sport?
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Have a 2003 LE V6 with 95,000 miles on it. It is stalling at stop lights and when pulling into the garage where the smell is noticed. Our mechanic has been unable to replicate the situation.
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I have had my car since it rolled out of the plant. Along with other issues one of the most bothersome is a strange smell when I accelerate above 60 mph and it gets worse between 70 and 80mph. Additionally, when I pull into my garage after having smelled this smell on the freeway, I can smell it on the outside of my car.
My car has been in and out of the Ford dealership every month for many issues but this particular issue each time I bring it in. It wasn't until my most recent visit that they told me that with new cars one can occasionally smell this when undertaking a hard acceleration. Then I was asked if I have visited websites or asked questions on the web about this smell. But until now I didn't know what the smell was.
I have been on websites that say this is normal for new cars but if the smell gets worse over time there is a problem with the carburetor. I need to know exactly what to tell the Ford dealership when I go in again have them fix this problem. I also would like to know if this smell I smell is harmful to my children and I. And is it leaking the smell all the time but it is just over a certain MPH that I can smell it.
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I've had this happen a couple of times before on my '10 GTI - I'm on the freeway and I decide to throw the DSG into S mode and punch it, seconds after I bring it back down to D and normal engine speeds I can smell an odor that reminds me of the cat going bad - sort of like sulfur or something burning (not rubber, though). This is with my windows rolled up and A/C re-circulation turned on. What I should be checking?
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I own a 1996 Buick Regal with 132k miles on it, 3.1L six cylinder. The other day I was doing some general maintenance and noticed that the exhaust smelled like sulfur (rotten eggs). Now, I am loosely familiar with the causes of such a thing but not well enough to diagnose it properly the first time. The car has been idling rough since I got it (almost a year ago now), I have a feeling that it could be the O2 sensor causing the rough idle and the sulfur smell but I am not completely sure. I should have one of those fancy three-part injector cleaners done?
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Experience a strong smell when WOT? Seems like every time I put my foot down hard through a couple of gears it stinks for a few minutes. The car only has 28000km, fresh oil change and running great.
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I purchased a 2011 Chevrolet Impala last year with 14,000. When the car reach 26,000 I begin to smell a very strong sulfur smell coming from the exhaust. I took the car to the local Chevrolet dealer and was told that the particles in the catalytic converter begin to break up at about 26,000 mile and the result is a sulfur smell.
I didn't believe that all Impalas had this problem. So I took it to the Chevrolet dealer in the next town where I personally know and trust the maintenance chief. He put his two best men on the car and could not find anything wrong. I was told to try another gas station which I did but it did not work. I now have 31,000 miles on the car and the smell is very strong coming into the passenger compartment when stopped.
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Just put a dual flowmaster exhaust on my truck, a week later my engine light came on. I also smell a sulfer smell and the truck seems to sutter when in gear at a stop, and also hard to start at times. What this could be!
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I have been noticing this Rotten egg/sulfur exhaust smell I have been getting for the past 2 months. So far it only happens when the engine hits 3000rpm or higher.
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My 2003 F150, 5.4L has been having some rough idle/misfires issues both at idle and under load.
I have fixed one big vacuum leak, replaced the PCV valve, new sparkplugs, seafoam and heet in the gas, replaced fuel filter, tested the fuel injector resistance. Coolant levels have not changed. The truck burns about a quart of oil every 1000 miles or so. The white exhaust is heavier than condensation, but it comes and goes. The rough idling comes and goes as well, and it usually happens under load and the CEL flashes.
The codes I get are random cylinders, po303, po308, po171, po174 were the most recent but there have been other cylinders as well. I clear the codes after each attempt to fix it and they come back different.
I notice that there is a small exhaust leak that drips water just behind the engine, and when I shut down the truck a lot of water will pour out of an area just behind the cab on the passenger side as well as out of the bottom of the muffler (small hole, looks drilled).
Usually the rough idle occurs after filling up the tank, but from different stations so I do not think it would be watery gas. I use Heet every fill up as well. Also, there is a sulfur smell after the rough idling occurs (catalytic converter?).
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My delta runs about 10 to 11 but it has gone up to 17-19 towing nothing for 2-3 seconds. No fogging of the windshield, and carpet is not wet. Puking is on the top of the degas and the bottom, and I have change the cap three times now. My coolant level is below the min level if the truck is warmed up the coolant line sets about 2 inches from the bottom of the degas bottle. The pictures are so big I could not figure out how to make them smaller.
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2001 hyundai Elantra 97000 mi. perfect on Thurs. Engine light flicker, sulfur smell, rough running, low power on Friday
First thought / hope, Bad gas? Had Filled up on Weds.... I added dry gas and FI Cleaner.
Second thought / fear Cat. Converter
Third . .. . ???
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Under acceleration when close to the limit of adhesion during high speed long sweeping turns I was noticing an oil smell last year. I can't say if it was R, L or both turning directions since its been a full winter since I have driven the car.
I'm using Mobile 1 5w30, a stock air box and I have headers. I'm also running 305 PSS tires, and a pretty well modified suspension. I have no facts to back this up but I am assuming because of my setup that I can get a little more lateral acceleration then most.
I have zero oil consumption, no leaks and good test results from Blackstone. My only thought is that I am pushing a little oil in to the crank case breathers during this hard cornering.
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My 2012 ISF has this weird hesitation going on. On manual mode with Sport, I would try to accelerate pretty hard and around 5k RPM, it would bog down and hesitate. Almost feeling like it's choking.
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So, I picked up my new car today, a 2012 obsidian ISF with 53,000. I'm driving it back from Texas to Georgia in the morning but after driving it for the first 100 miles I notice a pull to the left under hard acceleration and to the right when I let off. I've never driven an F before and I'm coming out of an IS350. I haven't had a chance to check tire pressures yet but I notice the right rear tire is a Dunlop and all other 3 are Bridgestones. Could this be the cause?
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Was driving to Airport yesterday and out of nowhere got the flashing check engine and shudder/limp mode while trying to merge/accelerate onto the onramp (had to gun it to go around someone who decided to stop on the onramp for no reason). Let off the gas and the blinking went away. Upon leaving the airport I was accelerating again at highway speed to pass and got the blinking light and then a solid CEL. Found my way to a Autozone and got the code read. P0301 Cylinder#1 Misfire. Was suggested to change COP and plug.
Changed COP on the spot and had to drive it home to my tools to install plug. Thought maybe that since the CEL was still on solid after changing that the code needed to be cleared for the PCM to function normally again. Still have shudder when accelerating hard, so thought it might have been injectors so got cleaning service done at Goodyear. Still have the issue. Disconnected battery and performed IDLE relearn just now and it still is shuddering upon hard acceleration. Stumbled across TSB 12-6-4 which speaks to my symptoms.......I do not have the plate which in turn would imply I do not have the PCM update it references.
I have not noticed a misfire nor had an acceleration issue before so this was a surprise to come out of nowhere. I'm going to be calling my dealership in the morning.
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So today I had a scenario where I had to pull out from a blind corner onto busy street. By the time I pulled out I realized an SUV was coming down the street fairly quickly. My immediate instinct knowing I have 360hp on tap was to put the hammer down.
I basically planted my right foot to the floor and held it there. The truck was already rolling out of the lot and turning into the street at approximately 5-7 mph. This resulted in the truck shifting hard from rolling in 2nd gear, down to 1st. I never drive this way so what I'm asking next is if this is normal or not. As I held my foot to the floor through 2nd & 3rd gears the truck seemed to blip the throttle at 4k then up-shifted from 1st to 2nd gear.
I have a stock Ford Raptor exhaust on my truck with the resonator deleted and when the truck blipped the throttle just prior to the up shift, the exhaust "popped" like a race car with an open exhaust downshifting from speed into an apex. Yes it sounded cool, but it was obviously cutting fuel or throttle for some reason.
So here is the weird part, out of curiosity I tried a few different scenarios just to see if something was wrong with my truck. *Note if I just mash the gas from a dead stop there is no fuel cut going from 1st - 2nd gears at WOT. The fuel cut only happens when I'm leaving out and getting on the gas from a turn.
If I turn off the traction control or advance trac and stability program then there is no fuel cut or 4k rpm, the truck just runs out to the 5600 or so redline seamlessly. Im just wondering if the traction control or torque management is really that sensitive or aggressive? I mean it was 70 degrees out and the road dry, plus I was already at a speed 45-50?? mph where a loss of traction would not be an issue so what gives?
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