Lexus IS 2014+ :: Stepped Off The Gas Pedal / Speed Keeps Increasing
Sep 30, 2014
Today i wanted to slow down a bit after hitting 75mph on a 65mph freeway so i stepped off the gas pedal. However the speed did not decrease but kept going up slowly to 80 till i stepped on the brake in order to slow down. After hitting the brake , it seemed to work as usual ( speed decreases when foot is pff the pedal). Had to do it multiple times today? Am i missing something? Only happened on the freeway, once i got off it seemed fine.
2014is 250 f.
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I have a rear wheel bearing type of noise that appears to come from the rear. My vehicle is front wheel drive and has 135K miles.
I checked the rear wheel bearing/hub assys on both sides and they had no play but I changed them anyway. Noise did not change at all. Rear tires have normal wear, no cupping or anything. Noise gets louder with increasing speed up to a point and then remains a constant level.
My next thought is to check the front wheel bearings/cv joints.
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Is there a way to increase the volume of the buzz sound when locking the door with the remote? It has been bothering me for a while. Every time I lock the door with a remote as I am walking away from the car, I need to listen very carefully for the almost inaudible buzz sound so I am sure the door is locked. I searched in the settings but didn't find where it can be changed.
BTW, it is a 2014 RX350.
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My mother went out 2 days ago to go run errands, she stepped on the brake pedal and it went to the floor (car still in garage and in park, low mileage car 81,xxx garage kept). I have not been able to duplicate the issue. The fluid has been changed twice since new, no signs of fluid loss, undercarriage inspection revealed nothing. I am thinking maybe a vacuum hose issue.
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I accidentally stepped on the gas pedal of my brand new Mazda CX-5, when I had the car in park, while waiting for the outside bank teller. The car made a revving sound at the time, but seems to be driving OK. I am wondering if I have done any short/long term damage to the motor, engine, transmission or any other part of the vehicle.
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My gas pedal wont work at all on my 1975 chevy malibu it feels like something slipped off when I stepped on it this morning....
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I had a problem with my brakes about 4 months ago. They were making a barking noise when I stepped on the brake pedal. The dealer bled the brakes and reflashed software. Now the problem is back and they say I probably new a new brake actuator. It should be covered by the extended warranty. I hope a new actuator will fix this. I like everything else about the car. (Have 37,000 miles)
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The noise sounds a little like a baby Road Runner, a soft little "meep" sound. I usually notice it after the car has warmed up, when I come and go from a stop sign. In lieu of strapping somebody to the hood with duct tape, I've been trying to think of a tunnel that I could drive through fairly slowly with the window down while I attempt to replicate the sound.
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I was driving my 98 Tahoe yesterday making a visit to my sister. pulled the truck into the drive-way, put the gear selector in park, stepped on the parking brake (a habit I've had for years) and YIKES! the peddle moved down with no resistance!
my parking brake light stayed on even after I released the parking brake peddle, which didn't spring back, but I pulled it back. light stayed on when I started the truck although I think the brake never engaged in the first place.
I drove the truck and didn't notice any drag at all. after driving a few miles I stopped the truck and felt the wheels for excessive heat but didn't experience that. my guess is the cable broke or came off and didn't engage the parking brake in the first place. sound correct?
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I own a 2000 F250 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4. The only aftermarket engine modification I have is a Tymar intake. The problem I'm having started about 6 months ago in a very erratic fashion. I would pull up to a traffic signal and as the light changed to green, without warning the truck would have no throttle response. The engine was running fine; there was just no response as I stepped on the accelerator pedal. Usually when I put the transmission in neutral, revved the engine a few times, the throttle would come back on line. This happened 4 or 5 times over the summer and then went away completely until today. Today it came back with a vengeance. At one point I had to shut the engine down completely to restore throttle response. It's a bit unnerving when it happens in the middle of a busy intersection. I was told that it may be the throttle position sensor. Does this sound correct and does it need to be replaced?
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Had a long trip with the X this week and noticed a weird vibration up at speed. Anything before 65 mph and the truck was smooth, higher than that a medium vibration developed. Its frequency increased with speed. Never got the truck over 70, but the vibration was there enough to rattle change in the cup holder and the rear view mirror. What it might be? I was thinking a hub bearing... 2000 Limited 4x4 PSD ....
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Just got into my 2006 Sonata V6 this morning. 120,000 miles. Drove last night, no problems. Started her up now this morning, noted check engine light and ESC lights on.
Pushed accelator pedal, no increase in RPMS at all. Put the car in gear (auto), car moves forward and backward, but pressing the pedal doesn't increase the rpms at all, so right now its not driveable. Luckily, its in the driveway so I know it could be worse. Took floor mat out, no interference issue there.
I changed the starter solenoid and that was over 45,000 miles ago. Never had that problem.
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Had the front end axle replaced due to a boot that was ripped on the CV joint. Three months later the front end is vibrating while increasing speed and passing. The shop is telling me its my transmission?! Doesn't sound right to me. So i take it to another shop and they say its the axle. Okay its under warrenty but the other shop says its the transmission.
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1999 (built late 1998) Ranger 2.5 stick 2wd single cab. If I get much over 75 MPH the speedometer will reverse direction despite increasing speed. If I then let off the throttle completely, the speedo will jump right back up and indicate the correct speed. Continued operation without letting off the throttle to let the speedo recover will trip the ABS fault light, probably due to the erratic signal.
Disconnecting RABS module has no effect on symptoms. Speed sensor in the rear axle has been replaced already (by me) and the new unit ohm'd out good. Wiring between GEM and sensor checks out as well, good continuity (< 1 ohm) and no shorts to chassis ground. I wish I had an o'scope to take a look at the waveform, but I don't at the moment. It is on my future tool purchase list.
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I am having a problem with my 2004 Toyota Camry XLE V6 brakes. For the past couple months I keep seeing the brake dash light turn on and the brake fluid is constantly going down but I don't see any wet spots under the car. I needed rear pads so I kept thinking that it was just the fluid going down because of worn rear pads but I changed the rear brakes last weekend and still have this problem. Today when I went to drive the car for the first time of the day I heard this loud noise every time I stepped on the brake pedal. I checked the brake fluid level and it was a little below low so I filled it back up. I kind of feel like I've had to fully press down on the brake pedal lately to stop the car. There's plenty of brake power but I feel like I have to push all the way down and I don't remember it being like that.
Video of Noise: [URL] ....
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I have a 1993 protege that was previously not having any issues. I recently had a mobile mechanic replace my axle after it broke. Since then I have had issues with the rpm's increasing but the speed staying the same or decreasing. This happens mostly uphill and especially when the vehicle is cold. Is there another reason this can occur besides a bad clutch?
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Why does the stator unlock every time I let of the gas on my 2004 6.0, I have been trying to increase the gas mileage on my truck and to me the number one problem is that every time I let of the pedel the stator unlocks increasing my rpm by 400. in my chevy the stator only unlocked if I touched the brakes or down shifted.
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I have this noise that is cumming from under the car about dead center Engine area its only heard while driving and more as the car has been driven for some time. From speeds 20mph and above only when increasing speed or when full throttle. It wont do it in park or revving it i jack up the car front end and put in drive only front right tire turns but still no noise(is there away for the left tire to turn). Everthing works normal the noise is low and at times only.
2.4L Sonata 68000+miles.
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Looking for any tricks on increasing the range for remote start? Mine works great from house kitchen window to a detached garage, but would be nice if it would work through the window of a 2nd floor office building to the parking lot below. I see my lights blink when I remote lock the doors from up there, but the start wont catch. Tried a new fob battery---no luck.
Is it possible to add an antenna to the receiver in the truck (&where is the remote start receiver anyway?) Or maybe a handheld antenna near the fob?
Had a good half inch of freezing rain on the window after work today, & the remote start wouldn't work from the office--kinda useless.
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Well Prii have always been a little "loud" under acceleration due to the CVT and small engine and minimal sound proofing, BUT We have 2 Priuses (Prii??), a 2011 with 41000 miles and a 2014 with 7k miles. My daughter got the 2011 to take to college. 1200 mile round trip so it made sense.
She maintains that for sometime, the 2011 is making more of the droning/roaring sound that a Prius makes when accelerating briskly. I did not really believe, her, but over holiday break, I had the opportunity to drive both cars more, and she is right.
The 2011 is clearly louder under acceleration. It also will develop a bit of a vibration at certain RPMs, even at very low RPM sometimes, when the economy bar is just beyond the electric mode.
The noise differential between 2011 and 2014 is most apparent at cold temperatures, but it does not resolve completely even with both engines fully warmed up.
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What's the best way to be faster when you shifting using pedal shift or stick shift on automatic transmission? Release the gas pedal before shifting and then hit the gas pedal again (just like driving manual), or keep flooring the gas pedal while shifting?
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