Lexus IS 2014+ :: Rear Tires Worn Out - Shake At Highway Speeds Around 70 - 80
Aug 12, 2014
I have 18k miles on my IS350 AWD Fsport. Brought it in for shake at highway speeds around 70-80. Dealer called and said steel belts are showing on REAR tires on my ALL Wheel Drive. My mileage is 2/3 highway. Went Hankook Ventus V12s on my 2IS and fronts would wear much faster...
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I have just over 11K miles on my 2011 and now notice steering wheel vibration & slight shake at 70 mph. The passenger can also feel it.
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Just rotated my tires this weekend and noticed today that the steering wheel has a vibration in it at highway speeds, 65-70mph. It did not do this at all before I rotated the tires, why it's doing it now? Tires are fairly new and Bridgestones H/Ts.
I know my rotors are warped and need replaced but the vibration I'm referring to is when I am not braking.
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I have 245 35 20 on the front (lowered 1 inch on Tein Springs) and 275 30 20 (10.5 inch wide) on rear. The front tires are worn extremely bad and showing cord on the insides. The rears are worn on the Insides and middle but not as bad.
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I drive a 2004 Hyundai Elantra with 72,000 miles on it. My rear tires are worn. Do I put the replacement tires on the rear or on the front (and rotate the front tires to the back?) I've asked several mechanics and got several different answers. Isn't there a definite answer to this question?
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A friend of mine has a '93 Explorer 4x4 with an automatic. He's getting an intermittent shake at highway speeds. It shows up every 5-10 minutes or so. Apparently the problem has been going on for a few months now. I took it for a test drive the other day, and it feels similar to driving on rumble strips. It shakes in both 2wd and 4wd, but he says it seems worse in 4wd. The vibration feels more like it's coming through the seat than the steering wheel. The vibration will go away if you take the foot off of the accelerator, or if you pull it down into Drive. He's got about 220K miles on it. The previous owner said the transmission was rebuilt about 30K miles ago, but who knows. He's had it in the shop for a couple of days, and they've checked the usual suspects - u-joints, ball joints, and the sort.
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I have a 2011 f250 6.2 cclb and it shakes around 70 to 75 mph. Not terribly but enough to annoy the crap out of me. Now I have put new tires on it recently, new Rancho 9900 adjustable shocks, I have it aligned regularly and tires rotated and balanced every 5000 miles or so. I have had two dealerships look at and my local shop and they can't see anything visibly wrong with it.
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It is an AWD model. My mother just purchased it used from a Lexus dealer last weekend. At freeway speeds, she noticed a shimmy, and she had one of her friends' husbands check the tires out (she's on a road trip and not near me or a Lexus dealer). He found that the tires are starting to delaminate in the front and thread is quite worn on the outer edges.
The vehicle has a warranty (30 days or 1500 miles) and of course Lexus is saying they will only pay for the front tires. (we don't know if that is the whole cause of the shimmy yet I might add). But to deal with the immediate problem, what is Lexus's recommendation regarding replacement of tires on an AWD 350? Do they really say it's ok to replace tires by axle? Because I know that can screw things up on some other cars. . .
I told her to read the owner's manual and see what it says on the matter.
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I am aware that cold weather will decrease your tire pressure, but what is throwing me off is how quickly my rear tires seems to be losing pressure?
I park outside overnight, and it gets down to about 25 degrees F here at night. My front tires I run at about 38-40 PSI, and I JUST filled the rears up on Saturday to the same. I start my car this morning and both my rear tires are sitting at 30 PSI. This has happened ever since the dealer took my my wheels to refinish the rims about a month ago. Is there something they could have done that would be causing this? The can't think of a reason as to why the front tires are fine and the rear keep loosing pressure.
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My tires are cupping on my Azera. I've had the tires rotated every 7500 miles as required by the maintenance schedule. The tires make a lot of noise while driving, especially at highway speeds.
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On rapid acceleration from standing start-- RC- F does not have a smooth transition. Tires jump and shake for half a second before car has even acceleration. Even with traction control turned off this happens. WHAT IS THAT ALL ABOUT ????
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I have a 2005 6.0. I just got done doing the HPOP seals, injector o-rings, stand pipes and dummy plugs. I have drove the truck 600 miles since the work with no problems other than a wiring issue I got fixed...
I was driving at highway speeds, and all of a sudden I lost power and got a shake when trying to accelerate. I pulled over and turned it off, and when I went to restart it I got nothing at first, then it went to what seemed like a partial crank followed by a thud. So I'm thinking I just hydro locked it. I waited a few mins and tried again, and it started but had a few knocks for 15 seconds or so, then it ran rough with smoke pouring out of the exhaust (grey then turned kinda white).
I the only codes I have are for the egr which I've had unplugged for a long time, and a glow plug code, but when I started it back up, I had no codes. I'm baffled. I did notice I have oil on my oil filter housing at the cap, a little oil had slung on to my wire harness and my intake. I don't even know where to begin!
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I have a 2004 VW R32 lowered and all 4 of the tires wear down on the inside really fast. Camber kit? Which kit should I get?
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I just notice that two of my tires, all of them Michelin Energy™ Saver A/S tires, seems to be worn out after 10K mile usage. However, when I look these tires at the Michelin web site, it states that these tires have a 64K mile warranty. Also if I decided that two of my tires, all Michelin Energy™ Saver A/S tires, need replacement, could I just replace the two worn out tires or all 4 tires?
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In late fall, I got a recall notice from VW for my 04 V6 Touareg and just got around to bringing it in to Leith VW (dealer I purchased from "new" with about 900 miles on it in May 2005 as one of the last '04s on the lot) in Cary today. Since it's at 18,900 miles, I had them do the scheduled 20k service, plus my state inspection was due so added that as well.
They just called to let me know that although they did pass the inspection for me, the car really needs 4 new tires because the tread depth is below marginal. Also, they said that they are not a dealer for that brand of tire so they cannot give me any kind of treadlife warranty prorating on the replacements; if I want to claim it, I need to go find a tire dealer somewhere.
What kind of BS is this? How could a dealer sell a new car with a tire on it that they aren't actually a dealer for? Did somebody pull a fast one on me by swapping out the tires for an old set laying around before I bought it?
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Lifting 09-13 F-150 with the two piece drive shaft. I am getting a lot of vibrations at highway speeds(55mph or higher). I have a Pro Comp 6 inch lift that was installed while I was stationed in Alaska. I have the drive shaft spacer that goes on the drive shaft at the pinion. I also have a carrier bearing drop kit from BDS that I am currently experimenting with (trying to find the sweet spot). I am at a loss though because my truck is no longer fun to drive. I drive an hour to work one way and it blows that my truck feels as though it will rattle apart. I have tried doing all the research that I can find about this issue.
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My Bridgestone Ecopias(Ep20s) have 26,000 miles on them and are wore on the outer edges. Both sides are worn. I heard this may be to under inflation. I go to Discount Tire and they set all my tires at 37psi. Is this too low. The door says 35 front and 33 rear. Do I need more air for them to wear evenly? Also I have ordered Michelin Energy Savers. Discount will set them at 37, or should I add more air so this type of wear does not happen? I plan on getting an alignment just in case, but really don't think I need one. There is no pull to either side and the wheel is straight.
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I have a 2014 screw 4x4 v8 that has been in the shop 5 times now for something that the dealership can't duplicate, and that is intermittent enough for me that I can't determine what the conditions need to be in order to duplicate it myself.
My transmission will shift hard under two different situations:
1) when rolling through a stop, or a momentary stop at a stop sign, the transmission holds up between 3 and 1, and when I bring the rpms up, the transmission shifts down into 1, making a hard clunk;
2) at highway speeds, more so when using cruise, if I accelerate and the truck shifts down from 6 to 4, there will be a hard shift as well. In fact, when I'm on a long stretch of flat, open road using cruise at 70-75, I can feel a slight bump through the steering wheel and floorboard, as if the cruise is trying to engage the throttle a bit more, but only for a split second. But that will happen quite a few times within a couple miles until I come up on a grade and the throttle has to engage for a bit longer to keep speed. Sometimes, the hard shift will do occur going to 5 as well, but 90% of the time it will be a 6-4 shift. If the truck decides to shift from 6-3, there's no issue and it shifts and accelerates like it should.
Again, this is so intermittent, but when it happens, it happens several times. I've had the service tech ride in the truck with me, all the while not being able to duplicate the issue. I understand that these are learning transmissions, so the only thing I can think of is when I try to duplicate it by accelerating over and over, that the transmission adjusts the shift pattern or fluid pressure to compensate.
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I have a 2010 F150 XLT crew cab, and I'm the second owner. Ever since I have owned the truck, it has had a pretty bad shake/vibration at highway speeds, that gets worse with higher speed. I have checked the alignment multiple times, rotated tires, had them re-balanced, and I still cannot figure out what is causing this. What else should I be checking?
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I have been feeling a vibration in my right rear at highway speeds (70+mph) At first i thought that maybe it was a wheel bearing but that would constantly be vibration and it wouldn't be off and on like it is. The car is on coils and a friend mentioned to check and make sure my right height is the same all around. I checked just by comparing the fender well gaps and it does seem as if the right rear is a bit lower. If this is the case, can ur car being a little lower on one side cause this vibration? if so, how?
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Getting new tires very soon. I noticed this wear pattern on my front tires. The heavily worn part is on the inside of both front tires. Is this normal wear for our cars (I do go around the turns pretty fast) or should I have an alignment done once the new tires are on?
The link might not be working, try this one? [URL]
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