Lexus IS 2014+ :: Rear Driver Side Tire Blew At 24k Miles
Aug 21, 2015
So my rear driver side tire blew at 24k miles. Dropped with Tein H techs when I first bought and had it aligned via lexus. 14 months later and tire blew. The thread on the tire was very worn on the inner side of the tire so I had to exchanged them both. I order the Michelin ps2 and now it's rubbing ?
Why is the Michelin rubbing when the tires are the exact same specs as factory? Didn't know I had to get camber kits for just H Techs.
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I have a squeaking noise coming from my rear driver side tire. I changed my brake pads and one was missing. All it had on there is what looks like a shim. ( pics below )
After finishing the job I drove my car and the noise continues. It's mainly when I'm in reverse. Has any one else had this problem? My car is at 50k miles.
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Take a look at the video I recorded with my phone and you can hear a thumping or clunking noise coming from the rear driver side tire. The phone was held upside down sorry!. I'm thinking it's either the brake pads or wheel bearing?
Please try to ignore the wind noises. = Just want some idea so when I take it to a mechanic it would be easier to identify the problem. [URL] ....
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I found out the rear driver's side shock was leaking oil after I jacked up the car to take a look at exhaust options for the car. 3 of the 4 shock are clean and show no signs of oil.
Is this a defective shock or a pothole destroyed it?
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Spilled pre-workout on the driver's side rear door speaker. As you can see, it's all white. How to clean it?
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I'm having some rubbing issues on the rear driver side after installing 19" vossens. I'm lowered on S-techs. The bump stops were cut per instructions. I'm wondering if I replace the cut bump stops with new ones, could this minimize the rubbing by limiting the suspension travel?
I'm only rubbing on dips and when the car is weighed down. My other option would be replace the teins with RSR down's along with new bump stops.
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I just got a 3rd gen IS 1 month ago, but the last 3 weeks there is a rattle noise coming from the rear door on the driver side. I went to lexus twice now but they were unable to fix it and they told me to wait till the car breaks in.
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I hope this car isn't going to turn out to be a regret.. I've had it a couple weeks and have nothing but minor issues.. Now the rear drivers side tire is leaking air. I really don't want to bring a car with 500 miles to the dealer, I don't trust them. I could take the tire off and bring it to a tire shop but what could be the cause? I have no vibrations so I wouldn't assume the wheel. From that I can tell it doesn't look like anything is sticking out of it..
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I have a 2010 f150 supercrew 4x4 with 8.8 3:55 nls rear differential. my driver side tire has a wobble to it it is wearing the inside of the tire. i have replaced the driver axle shaft with new ford oem shaft put in new axle bearings and seals on both sides and have replaced the spyder gears and i still have the wobble I don't know what is going on. the wobble is more pronounced when the tire and rim are bolted to the shaft only without the drum and caliper attached. with caliper and rotor attached i still have the wobble just not as bad however the tire wobbles going down the road more noticeable between 20-45 mph.
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I have a 2wd 2011 F150 90K with grinding noise coming from the drivers side front tire. Even though it was happening when coasting I thought it might be pads but they are real good. Turning the hub with no tire on it I can hear a little grinding. So I suspect bearings. I want to remove the hub but can't find out how to pull that off.
Where I would expect to find a spindle nut there is an area where it looks like you put a puller in. Can't find any videos or other information on the "Internets". Maybe I'm the first to have bad bearings? Anyway, how to remove the hub?
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Just to clarify, I've got a UK spec B5 wagon, manual, 1.8T (AEB, I believe) and it's a 2000. Last night when I was driving home, either my CV joint or axle on the driver (right) side blew out. Needless to say, I'm going to replace my axles or just the outer joints, but I've been shopping around and I'll find parts that will fit an A4 with a 5 speed and AEB but not a Passat, or parts that fit strictly AUG or ATW engine codes. How would I go about finding which axle will actually fit my car?
Here's a video so you can hear the noise : [URL] .....
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Took my 2014 GX in for 5k miles service even though it has only 1K miles (bought it in Nov 13). The service write up person recommended oil change (10K service). I was cool with that because I still believe in first oil change in 1K miles when the car is new regardless of what car manufacturer says.
After 1 hr waiting, the shop manager told me that my GX needs to stay longer because they discovered a small leak in rear main seal. From what I read on the internet, it is a time consuming repair.
I don't drive the car much, 1k miles in 7 month. It is parked indoor most of the time. I do drive it 5-10 miles every 2-3 wks to cycle the car. I also use battery tender to keep the battery charged.
I was surprised that this happened. My friend's 2014 GX (he bought it because I told him Lexus is much more reliable than his LR3) had his back up camera replaced at 3K miles.
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2014 RX 350 - 8700 miles - Rear Main Seal Leak
Very disappointed that my new RX with only 8700 miles and has never even had an oil change now has a rear main seal leak. The dealership says that the gasket was defective and that there is no other visible damage. The dealership has filed a case with Lexus corporate.
Granted that it will soon be fixed at no cost to me, it's still very disappointing that a brand I hold so high for quality has let me down in such a big way.
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My 2008 ES350 started shaking and the front driver's side tire and rim started heating up. Turns out there is a hanging caliper, which needs to be replaced. That's the cause of the friction and heat on the rotor. I should replace both front calipers, pads and rotors, then bleed the brakes.
Mileage is about 90k.
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Awhile back I did get my battery replaced and I did reset my windows so they could be used from the driver side panel. As of now, I can roll down all of them from the driver side except for the passenger side rear (window diagonal from driver). The window does roll down from the door itself so the window isn't broken. The light on the driver window switch is lit green, not blinking. However, the light on the window switch on the passenger door is NOT lit and not blinking either. And yes, I did make sure the window lock was not on.
Could the switch, either passenger or driver door, be bad? Should the battery be disconnected and reconnected??
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I installed my hks ssm yesterday,it sounded great except for a clunking noise every time i pass by an uneven road...i found out that the hks pipe was hitting "the round thing next to the shocks" ... that's why the oem muffler had a little round stopper.. I tried to wrap it with a little exhaust wrap thinking it would fix it but it did'nt, just wondering if there's a DIY or something for this problem.
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My car's driver's side tire looks almost flat as one of my co-workers indicated first but the tire pressure light is NOT on. Should I worry about it and get it checked out?
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So I found out this afternoon that I have a leaking sunroof. Water has been draining into the rear driver's side passenger area and has soaked my carpet under my seat. And had standing water under my rear seat in the tray next to the fuel pump access.
I found that the drain tubes can become clogged allowing for water to spill over or seep out. And sending some compressed air up the tube will clear it. But I do not know where the tube exits.
I unfortunately cannot pull the interior apart the weekend because I have drill. So it will have to wait until next weekend to gut her again. I will also pull the headliner to check the condition of the tube.
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Picked up my new ride yesterday, 2012 F-150 STX tuxedo black, supercab
4x4, 3.55 e-locker, 5.0l. It is one nice ride but it already has a blown speaker rear drivers side which is frustrating, I see this is a common issue with these trucks. Just hope it is not a recurring thing. But still a great truck.
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So today got in the car and drove to school as normal and parked in the garage locked the car and went my way. Came back to the car and usually when you unlock the car the puddle lights come on as well, the drivers side puddle light did not come on but the passengers side did.
-I have changed my puddle lights to LED
- it was raining pretty heavily during my commute this morning.
later on as I was going to take the mirror apart to check the bulb I tested it once more and the bulb was working again and its been fine since. very weird. What it could have been? could there possibly be water getting in the housing? I checked and everything seems pretty tightly sealed after putting the mirror back together and no condensation or anything inside from what I can see.
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I have noticed that at highway speeds, 55 + MPH, there is a whistling sound coming from outside the car, I can hear it more on the driver's side of the car. I checked all the rubber parts on the two doors and everything seemed to be in place. Is this normal? I probably only noticed it because I had the volume on the radio really low, but the whistling sound sounds like it's right in my ear. I got my roof wrapped so I thought maybe part of the vinyl came up and was causing that but the wrap is sound in place.
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