Lexus IS 2014+ :: Loud Thump Followed By Continuous Thumps When Cruising On Highway
Nov 21, 2015
On my way home from work tonight cruising on the highway, heard a loud thump followed by continuous thumps thereafter. Knowing this wasn't good pulled over to find a nice big nail in my passenger side front tire, great. thought I could make it home, I was about 6 exits away...one exit later nail flew out and tire was loosing air.
- luckily for me, I had a friend who lived nearby the exit the nail flew off and put on the spare.... now my question is I noticed some camber wear on the tire.. 15,200 miles to be exact on the stock oem bridgestones.
- I know these tires are complete crap but... is this camber wear normal? I've seen other posts about it but, is it the tires? or something to do with the car? I am pretty sure my alignment is fine. If I buy a new set of tires eventually will this end up happening again? Trying to gain some knowledge for the future.
Also is it true that with AWD cars, if you change one tire you have to change all 4? because it might mess up the drivetrain or something, at least that's what I was told.
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My GS 430 2006 has a noise in the front like a rrrrrrrrrrr its constantly and loud every 30 seconds i could said. The same noise I had hear it since I bought it , but not like now .
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I'm using the 2011 Santa Fe.Got few question to ask.
1.When start to move there is a thump noise and sometimes it feel like going over something from the rear area.Happen only when start to move.
2.Using the keyless remote. Sometimes push the rear trunk button to lock and arm the car there but will be a beep sound continuously. Sometimes the rear trunk button are unable to open or arm the alarm system.
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Experience such a noise? Seems to happen only when accelerating, but the noise seems to dissipate when you let go of the accelerator pedal.
Best way to describe would be a continuous whining noise.
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I just picked up a used 2009 LS 460 AWD last week with 45K miles. I have put about 1000 miles on it so far myself.
When I hit any small depression in the road at 10-45 mph I hear a thump in the rear. The bigger the depression and the more weight in the backseat, the louder the thump noise and even an occasional bottoming out feeling occurs. It hasn't happened at highway speeds so far.
The bottoming out feel occurs only with a medium to large depression. I am not talking about a pot hole, just pavement depressions where two sections are not of equal height or you are transitioning from a primary road to a side street and the is a depression to allow for water run off, etc.
If I have someone sitting in the passenger seat and the backseat and accelerate quickly from a dead stop, I get a similar rear thump and even a bottoming out feel. This occasionally occurs even without a without a depression in the road. With no one in the back seat it does not do it unless there is a big depression in the road.
Finally, when cornering on a 270 degree off ramp at 40 to 50 MPH the rear end will start to hop and bounce. If I slow down to 15-20 mph it goes away. Still, it is irritating and embarrassing. I have tried all comfort settings and get the same results.
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Whenever i'm on the highway my car is very loud. Mainly when going over 60 mph. Its road noise, very loud like a plane going down a runway. My alignment isn't perfect, but could it be anything else?
2010 Lexus ES350
Yokohama YK580
Car has 38,000 miles
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Experience a lurch during slowish highway cruising? If I am just putting along with my foot barely on the gas sometimes the car will give a jerk or a lurch like it's trying to decide whether or not to go fast or stall. Just a really quick bit of feeback that makes me think...what was that? Here are some common elements:
-Only happens when cruising at relatively gentle speeds (100km/hr or 55mph)
-Seems to happen more often if it's windy? Has happened a few times when passing by semi trailers
-Seems to happen more frequently when there is snow on the road or blowing snow?
Could it be some sort of sensor or air filter problem? No codes have been thrown.
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I'm experiencing a serious problem with the tranny on my V10 TDI: When the engine's warmed up it sometimes starts slipping and generally keeps on slipping, even when cruising on the highway, until the engine is cooled off again. In thread [URL] .... I read something about a "faulty solenoid valve inside the tranny". Could this be the cause?
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So I've owned my 04 Passat for almost 3-4 months now, I have a 1.8T 4Motion w/ 5speed, and love it. It will certainly be nice in the winter time with the snow and cold here in North Dakota.
I was driving on one of the state highways, and was cruising at about 65mph, when the power cut out, and giving gas didn't do anything and I eventually came to a stop. I let the car sit for a minute, tried starting and could tell that the engine was trying to turn over but wouldn't. This has happened before with my jetta, and its always been because of water in the fuel lines during a heavy rain, so I had my roommate come give me some more gas to see if we could just run the water out of the system since it had been raining pretty heavily here lately. Still no joy on getting started, occasionally the engine would turn over, RPM's would get up to about 1100-1200, and then instead of stabilizing at idle, the engine would just cut out again right away.
Got a tow from my insurance company to a local auto service shop who took a look at it and got a code saying the speed sensor wasn't working. They allegedly took it apart last night and fixed the speed sensor, had a loose wire, but it still won't start up. They've narrowed it down to the crankshaft sensor, or the entire ECU module being shot. I'll know by tomorrow if the crankshaft sensor is in fact the case.
If it isn't the crankshaft sensor, then is it definitely an issue with the ECU? Would it be worth to get an ECU pre-chipped(APR seems to be the way to go), and have that installed instead of a stock unit? Is it even possible to get a chip from these guys that comes already chipped, or would I need to get a new ECU first and then get it modded.
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I have a 1998 Ford Explorer 4X4 two owner and only 63K miles. All service records including tranny flush. Tranny shifts fine, there are no "clunks" when shifting out of Park.The only symptom is an occasional bump or thud ( maybe more like a jolt )coming from underneath at the rear at highway speeds. Sometimes it is more pronounced than others. I don't believe RPMs change when this happens. Around town is fine and only at constant speeds above 55 which makes it difficult to recreate. I have checked for anything loose underneath ( incl spare tire ) and can't find anything.
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I am having a very intermittent thump/bang/slip in my front end when coming off the highway or taking off at a stop. Believe it or not this is when i drive the car perfectly normal and don't stomp on it which I haven't done much with this car.
I was under the car the other day and noticed neither the dogbone mount bolts looked to have been replaced and i saw the back subframe bolts look to be moving around due to rubbing marks on the subframe.
Car has been in three times to seacoast volkswagen this last time the tech drove with me and they wont do anything because they cant replicate the problem.
I noticed its between 4 to 3rd down shift and 1st to 2nd up shift that it happens so far. It is LOUD and extremely noticeable and feels almost like a slip and heavy bang.
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I experienced the sudden onset of brake failure when driving home from work . The ABS light came on and stayed on and a loud continuous beeping alarm started sounding, and my brakes became non functional. I was fortunately able to bring my car to a halt without injury to self/ car or others. My 2010 4runner has approx. 83000 miles on it, and a local Toyota Dealership has told me that the ABS sensor needs replacement, along with the rear discs, calipers and brakes, seemingly from a simultaneous failure that the service advisor does not report having seen before.
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I have a 2013 Golf R Apr stage 2+ with about 74k on the odo. I have been stage 2 for about 5k and was stage 1 for about 20k before going stage 2. Changed my plugs and coils at stage 2 as well. So was driving on the highway at about 60 just cruising when all of a sudden there was a minor hiccup in the car and then pushed the gas pedal and nothing, RPMs started falling and then car shut off, put the clutch in and coasted to the side of the road. Tried to restart and it would not.
I have power and car tries to start but won't catch and turn over. Towed it back to a buddies shop and let it sit overnight, still won't start. started poking around. Checked Hpfp and everything seems fine, cam follower and cam are good. Noticed that when I open my drivers door now I don't hear the other fuel pump prime like it usually does and after putting hpfp back on and opening drivers door a couple times we checked the Schrader valve on the hpfp and no fuel came out like it usually would. Have it narrowed down to most likely culprits; Faulty in tank fuel pump, faulty fuel pump control module, faulty fuel pump relay.
Btw just thought of this, no check engine light ever came on, also don't have a way to pull codes.
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I got a funny shifting issues that happens infrequently that I can no figure out. It happens after driving the car for a while on the highway, but not every time, and not just on the highway.
Here is my problem... when cruising down the highway the check engine light will come on stay on for a around a minute, the the check engine light will turn off, then of which my truck will lose power, not accelerate no matter how much I stomp on the gas, until my speed drops to under 55mph.
Once I get down to 55mph the truck will drop 2 gears into 3rd gear and then I can accelerate back up to speed. This will repeat every few miles. The computer will not store the check engine code, so no codes are pulled.
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Cruising down the highway, my 2001 Santa Fe engine suddenly cut out. Would crank, but not fire. Not hearing a sound from the back when I flipped on the key, suspected the fuel pump, which I replaced. No go.
I'd pressed the fuel pump reset switch under the hood - checked it again. Should the switch, when it's pressed, stay in a locked position, like when you do a reset on a GFCI electrical outlet? Or is it normal for it to have the up/down 'play' in it?
Also noticed a strange buzzing on the other side of the engine compartment -- was the unit (don't know what it's called) that the throttle cable feeds into - hooks onto a pulley. The buzzing was intermittent and inconsistent, but it was happening with just the power switch on.
Oh, and did replace the fuel pump fuse, too. While it's at 280.000 miles, not quite ready to give up on 'er yet!
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Our FWD Santa Fe Limited had a very noticeable vibration that started around 60mph. Oddly, the vibration will sometimes come and go while cruising at a constant speed on the highway. We went about 30k miles before we had time to get it into the shop.
I asked them to rotate and balance the tires and the vibration was noticeably reduced...initially. Now it's back!
The car has ~65k miles. All 4 Kumho tires match and I believe are original from the factory. I have kept all tires inflated properly.
Our car has the optional 18" wheels. Is it common for these to bend? What else could be the cause here?
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2.0L 8v ....So what's my chances the valves stayed clear of the pistons?
Driving 70mph 5the gear and cruise control set. Motor just died and I pulled off.
Cars back home in the garage. Iv ordered the ecs tuning timing belt kit.
This was a belt I installed 50k miles ago, shouldn't have gotten a auto parts store belt, or maybe it was my install, but I deff didn't think the belt was going to fail that early. Is there much of a difference between different brand belts and OEM?
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OK,it's a Taurus but it's the 3.0 Vulcan.On the highway crusing easy,now and then I'll get a stumble.It's like the key is turned off and back on.The tach stays steady but the car stumbles like the key was cycled quickly.I had to put a fuel pump in it a few weeks ago and now it is starting every time but this stumble has me stumped.
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As the title says the beast died on me yesterday morning going into work.
Situation : 5 F @ 7 Am
1/4 tank of fuel that has been treated
cruising at 70 MPH on the highway using the cruise
Going into work the other day the truck died on me as i cruised along at 70 MPH on cruise, I go to get out of the way of a car. As, I step on the accelerator X falls on its face. I look at the dash and there are no idiot lights on, gauges all look good. I navigate to the shoulder 3 lanes over and park it. As soon as it is in park it dies and will not restart.
I call AAA and sit there waiting for the truck to show up. After about 10 mins I try to start it again it stumbles and dies. 2nd try it fires up and is running rough. I make it to the nearest gas station and fill up. Then I go to the parts store and pick up the 911 fuel treatment and put it in the tank. I also use a scan tool on it and no codes. Truck ran fine after all this.
I go to start it after work, it starts and dies. I start it again and it sounds like it is running on 2 cylinders and there is a large puff of smoke out the exhaust which goes away after it is started.
After it warms up it runs and drives fine, no issues! So I looked at my extension cord I plug it into and realize that the timer was bad. New timer and verify it works. Go to start it today and it starts right up and idles and runs fine. Is it possible that the fuel gelled up due to the timer being bad and the block heater not turning on? Or am I missing something?
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When I fuel up I hear a loud thump in the back of my vehicle, I then hear the gas pump nozzle click off after about another half gallon is pumped in. Without understanding the design of a tank or the gauge float etc. I am guessing that something is getting stuck and releasing under pressure once the tank fills up. Of course this has me more than somewhat concerned from a safety perspective. Note that this vehicle was brought in under warranty for the fuel sensor issue and the part was replaced, would this be related to that? Will the repair still be cover as a part of that work even though my vehicle is now out of warranty?
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I've got a 02 Camry with a manual. In 5th gear, cruising on highway, there's a low grinding/ rattling noise. it doesn't do it if you try to accelerate, or if you have no throttle input at all, meaning it only makes the noise when trying to keep one speed, typically around 2000-2500 rpm. If i grab the shifter and apply pressure in any direction, the noise goes away. I've owned the car for 3 years now and its always done it, and hasn't gotten any worse or changed at all. I'm experiencing no performance issues and just chalked this up to gear noise, but recently read someone else was having same issue, and everyone was clamoring on about needing new bearings.
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