I've searched, but nothing came up. I want to remove the brake calipers (unbolt from the rotors) for cleaning and painting. I need confirmation that the fronts are just two 17mm bolts on the back of the caliper that is holding it? I tried earlier but it was right after a drive so car was hot and the bolts seemed like they were secured on tightly. I will try again this weekend. Btw. I have a 350 f sport
View 9 RepliesWhat is the proper procedure in changing the brake pads without unbolting the caliper?
View 7 RepliesSo, my right, rear, brake caliper froze in the open position a little while back; I hit the brake hard, it held, heard a clack, then it let go and stayed in the open (uncompressed) position. I lost some braking power but at least have been able to drive. No visible brake fluid leak, other three brakes working fine.
At 125K, I've decided to do a full brake job, and am about to search for some of the parts on the awesome stickied parts reference list up above. I'll hopefully find some parts are available at NAPA, where I'm also ordering the right side cv axle.
So, I'm only finding remanufactured brake calipers at NAPA. Are they decent or should I look for something new elsewhere?
I was uber excited to buy my first brand new truck in 09..... Amount numerous issues, defective rear window (fought with ford for 3 years never replaced under warranty), sync issues draining my battery, multiple O2 sensors replaced, multiple lights replaced and a blown drive shaft all under warranty. Now my warranty literally just ended, years not miles, just rolled 36k yesterday, ran out 3 years in November 12, now I'm having break issues.
A few weeks ago while driving, I released the gas and truck seem to slow faster than normal. Seemed kind of unusual but also began to noticed a drag on my mpg, about 2-4 mpg difference, depending on highway or in town. Now 3 weeks later, I feel grinding under breaking. Now it's beginning to make sense. I figure probably a stuck caliper. While driving with head out the window , freezing in IL, by the way, seems to be the drivers front. Checked rotors, outsides only as there are the guards preventing me from checking the back side. No visual or touch grooves ground into the rotors from the pads being worn out. Best bet is its the back side of the caliper that is locked.
Question 1, does this make sense, only one side of the caliper locking up? I had a caliper lock on my old GTP but the whole thing locked up.
Question 2, do I just suck it up and replace the breaks my self, gf's dad is a manager at O'rylies so I can get anything I want at cost, or do I go back to the dealer and bitch about mechanical problems being constant with my new now only weeks out of warranty truck? I read some horror stories about clogged lines and numerous other issues causing calipers to lock. I don't feel like replacing my whole break system, lines, calipers and all just to make sure the problem is fixed. At 3 years this seems ludicrous.
Started to change front pads and rotors on my GX470, but couldn't get the caliper bolts loose. Is it safe to use a torch to heat up the area around the bolts so I can loosen the bolts? Any other way to break these bolts free?
View 12 RepliesI haven't had luck trying to find the torque specs for the caliper bolts on my 2010 ES350. What are the correct numbers? a pdf diagram would be very useful.
View 1 RepliesEvery time I am pressing the brake pedal, I hear a distinct clicking sound coming from passenger front Brake Caliper Area.
I have applied brake grease (green) to the pad shim.
I have replaced the spring sets on each front caliper.
Passenger Brake Clicking Lexus LS460L - YouTube
I need to replace the rotors and calipers on my 04 accent gl. I noticed there are 5 bolts on the back of the caliper. I know one is for the flex hose connection. Then there are 2 big hex bolts closest to the dust plate. Are those for the caliper mounting bracket? and if so will they need to be removed? Then the final two are on the outer edge, however the top one is rounded and rusted, is this normal? The one on the bottom is a hex. So what needs to be removed to change the rotors and pads? I also notice that there are two screw holes in the rotor, that I guess snug it in place against the hub, however the screws are missing. Is this bad? are they needed? and if so can I get new ones?
View 10 RepliesThe car without navigation. And I didn't find instructions in the manual.
View 1 RepliesI did some searching but I couldn't find any information on how I can remove the entire map light/console.
I would like to tap the wires behind it to install my dash cam so then I don't need to run the wires all the way around the windscreen and stuff. I did this on the Rav4 which was pretty simple to remove, but I don't want to take any chances with the IS.
How to take it apart?
In the process of wrapping my center console in carbon fiber, have become stuck at this step here. How does the big button come off that selects Eco/normal/sport s/s+. ? The button does not slide through the bottom, like the snow and traction buttons, it is too wide. So it has to come off at the top, but how?
View 2 RepliesI noticed the front brake pads were touching the rotors when I was painting the brake calipers. I had my e-brake engaged and in park. I'm assuming the e-brake only brakes the rear wheels because the front rotors were still movable. Although the car still rides fine but I'm not sure if this is normal.
View 1 RepliesMy wife was complaining about a metallic scraping noise that was coming from the driver side front wheel. I listened to it and couldn't determine what it was or see any evidence of something loose. I took off the wheel and had a look at the components and after 160K miles, it looked like the pads could use replacing. It didn't seem like that was the root of the sound, but it looked like they needed to be done.
I got the parts for both sides and replaced the left without issue, but when I got to the right side, I found the source of the noise: a pebble between the rotor and dust shield. I continued on with the brake replacement and the caliper piston was stuck. Tried a couple of things to free it and blew out the piston.
Last Spring, my 2007 Camry Hybrid (54k miles back then, now at 62k) developed an obnoxious squeal coming out of the left rear wheel while driving at highway speeds. It takes several minutes at this speed to make the sound, so I believe wheel temperature triggers the sound. Touching the brake would temporarily silence it. After parking the car, I discovered that the left rear wheel was very warm, while the others were cool. I also saw excessive brake dust on the wheel.
I pulled the wheel to inspect. and saw that the track of the brake pad had moved a millimeter or two up the disk, so now part of the pad was over the "rusty" portion of the disk. The rusty, unworn part of the disc was thicker, so the part of the pad that was now over it was rubbing. At higher speeds, the rubbing would heat up the wheel and I'd gradually get the loud squeal.
I dismantled the pad, cleaned it, tightened the mounting brackets (via slight bending) and put it all back together. This solved the problem for 8 months. It just came back to haunt me on a recent highway trip...
It's a pain to take it all apart, especially if I am only temporarily fixing the issue. The pads still have over 85% live (including the rubbing one) and the disks look great on all wheels with no vibrations.
Noticed blue calipers losing their color? Specifically looking like they have a dull coat of wax on them that doesn't come off with normal washing.
View 8 RepliesI've run into a problem while doing brakes on my friends 2005 Sebring. I can't seem to get the brake caliper off. There is a little rubber boot with a plastic cap that is where the bolts that hold the calipers in place are. How to get the bolts out to remove the caliper. In fact, it doesn't seem like there are any traditional bolt heads in the plastic cover.
View 2 RepliesI recently replaced my pads and rotors. The driver side was no problem, but on the passenger side, when I was finished, the caliper was rubbing up against the rim of the tire. I took both tires off to compare the differences, I noticed that my passenger side caliper is not going down as deep on the pads as the driver side. The caliper on the passenger side depressed with no problems and had no problems fitting over the pads. Whats really confusing is that all of my bolt holes line up.
View 11 RepliesToday, as i had my car in the repair shop for a checkup i got a horrible message. The rear caliper/hand brake motor (?) is leaking brake fluid. Replacing this is close to 1500$ (I live in Norway) So my question is: Is there any way to stop the leak without replacing the whole thing? Also, i suspect the leak is minor as the brake fluid is almost on "max". So, if it doesn't really leak a whole lot, do i really need to do anything about it? I mean, if i have to refill the fluid container every six months its much cheaper.
View 1 RepliesYesterday (well for a while, but yesterday was bad) I had some brake issues, turns out the passenger side front caliper went bad (corroded, doesn't retract) so I need to get another one. Only place I saw Red caliper for my jazz blue for sale was on ecstuning and that was 189. Seems a little steep so I was wondering if there are any other places who sell the Red OEM calipers. If not I might just go through ecs.
View 2 RepliesI'm working on a 2007 Camry and I had the wheel bearings pressed in & out at a shop. I put everything back together but the driver side rotor is rubbing against the caliper bracket. And there is no air gap between the rotor and bracket so it can spin freely without rubbing. The passenger side is fine, there is a little air gap so the rotor can move freely without rubbing. I don't understand why the driver side rotor is rubbing against the caliper? I checked everything over, the pads and rotor are the correct ones. I also took the pass side caliper bracket and installed it on the driver side and same thing, the rotor still rubs against the bracket.
View 13 RepliesI'm having a tough time separating the brass fitting, even using a 10mm wrench. I noticed it moves below the bracket, so I'm trying to hold the oval with square corner base on the hose itself, but even then, have started to round the corners on the brass nut.
I'm gonna continue with the job, leaving the old hose, and will have to come back to this later, because I'm installing a new caliper (old one froze, and I just found out why, broken lower slide).
Any trick to separating the fitting between steel brake line and rubber?
ETA, to replace the brass fitting, does it mean cutting the tube, inserting another fitting, and flaring the end? I hate to leave the old hose or a rounded nut.