Lexus IS 2014+ :: G Chip Would Work With AG Key?
Apr 20, 2016
I recently purchase a smart key with the same FC as my key but It has a different letter on the chip and was wondering if a G chip would work with my AG key when programming .
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I took my SC430 to the Lexus dealership to get my passenger side air bag replaced due to the recall. I decided to have them work on my car by getting the oil changed, replacing a dead foglight bulb and checking on my navigation system.
I told my consultant that the nav will not work after I press the "agree" button on the screen and it just freezes. Later on, tells me that there's something wrong with the ECU chip and.
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I recently had an issue of my car not starting, battery empty, so battery needed a charger to start the car, but now the Nav screen does not work at all. no backup camera, nothing. Radio still works fine.
So i am guessing its a fuse. I looked at the fuse box on the driver side, but can't seem to find the appropriate fuse.
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I've had my car for over a month now and had no issues with the lexus app suite. The past few days i've been trying to get pandora to work. It connects perfectly fine and shows that its playing, but theres no audio that comes out. I've tried to switch channels and it does the same thing, play and no sound. how i would fix this issue?
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I was at Walmart today and FINALLY remembered to get a couple keys made for my 02 prius. I have been taking somewhat of a gamble considering I only got 1 key when I bought it.
I tried the keys in the trunk. Cha Ching! Unlocked and locked the doors. Cha Ching! Put the key in the ignition and turned it. Cha Ching! Went to start the car and Nothing!!
I could turn the car into accessory and into the run position, but it would not put the car in ready mode. At first, I thought my battery died. I took a deep breath and put the "Toyota" key in and she started right up...
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Looking for a performance chip i can install for my truck? I have a 2008 ford f150 lariat with a 5.4L triton engine. I'm just looking to increase the horsepower and anything else that is enhanced with the chip installed.
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Got my brand new passat one month now: it's a 1.9 TDI, 105hp saloon. From day one I have been noticing power drops right at 2100 rpm, but not very frequently. The power drop is very very short in time, but strong (you can feel your head going forward goes you don't expect this). Today at 4000km (2485 miles), the power drops happen more frequently. Yesterday I had it 4 times in 125 miles.
- They're always right at 2100rpm, never lower, never higher.
- In any gear (had the problem in 2, 3, 4 and 5th gear).
- Always when keeping round the same speed, I never had a power drop when accelerating.
Problem is that I can not reproduce the problem myself, it sometimes just happens. The vw dealer doesn't find any issues when reading the cpu and doesn't notice it when test driving (test drives are to short).
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I am considering chipping my 1.8T ATW 2000 Passat and was wondering if there is any downside on chipping the engine. like reducing the life of the engine or the turbo or less MPG,
Which company should I go for the best quality and if you wanna share a "best practice" prior and post chipping
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First diesel and it came with this chip. Also has a six position and the Po told me the settings. He said the check engine light was on because of it. Will it also cause the od off light to be on? I still have od and it shifts fine. But the off light stays off. Then sometimes it will be off. Never flashes like a code. And can I take the chip off with out putting something back in the hole. I want to see if the lights go off if I remove it.
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I have done a good bit of reading but am still not completely sure I understand what all is needed when installing a chip on an Ex. Looking at the edge tuner or bully dog. My question is are both of those chips integrated in the tuner? I cant seem to find the answer to this.
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I dropped off my 2006 Mercury Milan at a local Ford dealer this morning to have an AC temperature chip replaced because my air was not cold and prior diagnostics determined the chip no longer functioned. This turned out to be quite a costly repair. I was told it took 9 hours of labor requiring the entire dashboard to be removed. After picking up my car, I started driving home and immediately noticed the steering wheel was angled about 45 degrees to the right while I was driving straight. I have never seen something like this (and my car has been out of alignment before). I took it back to Ford to tell them that the steering wheel was crooked while the tires were straight and the manager said she didn't know how this could have happened because they never even lifted the vehicle. What might be wrong? Silver lining...the AC works now.
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My f350 has 300k on it. 95% of its driving is on trips of 22 miles or more at highway speeds. Occasionally long trips (going to put on 3k miles in 8 days here soon)
Want to drive the truck to 500k miles...but wondering if a tune or a chip would change the mpgs and not hurt reliability? I know its not a Honda Civic...I am not looking for 35mpg....would love to pick up a couple more than I have.
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Title says it, I just installed my Hydra Chip, now my edge says it cant communicate with PCM. I have checked all the connections on the edge, all is good. I planned on just using the Edge only for gauges. Will it not work anymore now that I have a Hydra? If not I will just sell it and buy an Edge Insight, so long as that will work.
I think its the Edge EVO 2, its this one.
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I have an 2002 7.3 powerstroke. It has a super chips installed, set on heavy tow mode. When throttle is on the foot and I start up a hill check engine light comes on. Code is for icp fault or uncontrollable. Also happens on cruise but more often on the foot. Have to reset to get check engine light off. Light stays off til I go to pull a hill again. I am also pulling a horse trailer with 1-4 horses. Could the programmer be causing this?
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So the idea has been kicked around before, but to my knowledge no one yet has done it on FTE. That is, a lighted display switch for our chips that only lights up the current position. Well, I've got it done!!
First some pics, then read below for how I did it. First pics are in the light, the next two are how it looks in positions 1 & 5 at night.
Now, for how I did it. First off, I started with one of the lighted displays from BCPD. Each number has an individual LED behind it, so I could wire up each one for the position it's in.
The back of all the chips have 7 wires attached to it. One is black, it's in the middle, and it is a common ground to the chip. The other 6 wires are all position grounds. The switch works by grounding one wire to the black wire for the position you are in. If you look at where the wires plug into the chips, the one farthest away from the black is position #1, and they count up sequentially from there toward the black wire.
First thing is to unplug the the selector **** cord from the chip before doing any work. I acutally ordered a spare switch from Jody, just in case I screwed up something (which I didn't), I wouldn't be without my chip.
I took the black rubber off the back of the switch to access the soldered connections. I soldered the ground for each LED on the display to the appropriate pole with the wire connected to it on the back of the display. I had some CAT 5 ethernet cable lying around, and I used the wires inside of it for the ground from the switch to the display. You can use a DVM or continuity tester to check for continuity between the black wire and each position to veryify which wire belongs to what position. I ran the extra wires out the bottom of the rubber cover, along with the original wires.
For power, I only wanted the lights to be on at night. So, I tapped into the wire for the gauge lights, put a 1 amp inline fuse (old glass type fuse), and connected all the hot wires of the LED's so they are a common hot. The LEDs already had resistors wired into them, so I didn't need to add any more.
The fit for everything where I put it was a little tight, but I eventually got it to fit, as you can see. And all the lights do work, and show up quite well at night. The display works by having a common hot to all LED's and grounding the one that for the position it's in, completing the circuit and lighting the LED.
Some other ideas would be to wire up 6 different colored LED's to constant power and place them somewhere else, say in the A-Pillar, dash, or on the door to the inside of the mirror. So, you'd have a different color LED for each position. It's not limited to using the BCPD display, that's just what I already had. The creativity is up to you on how you'd choose to light things up for each position.
Finally, I did talk to Jody about doing this and any negative effects it would have on the chip. He said there would be none, since you're just pulling a ground from it. Also, if you use an LED, they are by design only allowing current to flow in one direction, since they are diode's already. But, to be on the safe side, I used the 1 amp fuse on the power wire. You won't need any bigger than that as the LED's don't draw very much power at all.
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what is the best computer chip for a 2011 F-350 to get better gas mileage?
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Well I went to have a guy at work scan my truck to see why my o/d light is flashing His scanner wouldn't connect so I unhooked my ts chip still wouldn't after that Now with the chip unplugged. I can't start with it on I can't start...
My cel is on and my theft light just blinks. My wait to start never comes on but my glow plugs do start up and warm up. All I have is cranking but that's it?
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I had been waiting a long time for a remote start solution to be available for my 2014 IS-250 with navigation. I finally saw idatalink released a firmware for their ADS-ALCA bypass module that allows you to add a remote start that is triggered by the factory keypad. It was a fairly easy installation and it started up right away. I do have car installation experience, but I didnt find the installation to be that difficult in general.
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I started a lease on the eGolf on 1Dec2014.
I came from the original 04 R32 but my wife 4 yr old Lexus has a similar keyless entry key detection setup as the eGolf.
Unlike my wife's lexus, I am having a lot of issues with the eGolfs keyless entry.
50% of the time it does not work when I am standing right outside my car... I have to take the key out and physically press the button.
is this a know issue with VW? Is there a fix?
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2013 f150 stx with 14,xxx miles. Yesterday all 4 fan speeds worked. Today fan speeds 1-3 do not work, fan speed 4 works fine. This would be the blower motor resistor correct?
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3 weeks ago, I purchased a 2014 Prius model 4 and had a remote starter installed at the dealer. So far, the car has been at the dealer 3 times and they cannot figure out why the remote start will not work. When you press the lock button twice then the 3rd time for 3 seconds, the lights flash and you can watch as the dash lights begin to come on, then everything shuts down. The dealer contacted Toyota because this is all a warranty issue and was instructed to reprogram the computer which they did. After doing so they received an error code that a door, hood or trunk was open, but none were. They checked all the door, hood and trunk latch electronics and all were fine. Personally, I feel I must have received a faulty remote starter, but Toyota so far seems unwilling to replace it.
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