I noticed the front brake pads were touching the rotors when I was painting the brake calipers. I had my e-brake engaged and in park. I'm assuming the e-brake only brakes the rear wheels because the front rotors were still movable. Although the car still rides fine but I'm not sure if this is normal.
View 1 RepliesI'm getting sick of having my rims getting dirty after one hour of driving because of all the brake dust that the OEM pads give off. I keep hearing from shops that ceramic brake pads are not only more quiet but will put out much less brake dust. On the other hand, Lexus is telling me that if I do that, I will forsure damage the rotors but I really feel like they just want me to keep the car stock which is why they're saying that.
Are ceramic brake pads a bad idea with stock rotors?
i have the brake (!) the ABS and the VSC lit up after i got new bearings and new brake pads and rotors, the car was also stalling before the mechanic removed these bearing "dust cover" circles that must have been causing speed sensor interfernce bc the spedometer was stuck on 0....so the car seems to be done stalling after those were removed and all the big lights went off then i hit the brakes a few miles later and those three lights came on...
View 2 RepliesOk so we just replaced our front and rear brake pads and had the rotors turned. Our rear brakes are fine but both our front brakes now make a clunking/popping noise when we brake.
View 4 RepliesHow to remove the front brakes pads and rotors on my GMC Sierra 2008 - 1500 - crew cab - 4X4.
View 2 RepliesSo my car has 36 or so thousands miles and well the rear brake pads and rotors were SHOT! The rear rotor was falling apart and huge chunks were coming off. The issue stands now that I can't spread the rear caliper for anything, the ebrake is off too. I tried to use the C-Clamp trick but it honestly didn't even budge. I also opened up the bleeder and master cylinders cap just to cross that off the list when trying to compress. This is the hardest caliper I've ever had the misfortune of dealing with and I fear that the passenger side is not going to be any better. Aside from spending more money or renting the "tool" is there anything else to check because the C-Clamp trick has work on mine and my father trucks calipers.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2014 Supercab Ecoboost F150, which has 37k KM on it (23k miles). I work at sea for 4 weeks on / 4 weeks off so the truck sits a fair bit. I had it in the dealer for scheduled servicing and they noticed the inside pads on both front brakes were wearing significantly more than the outside (4mm vs 7mm). The lube guy at the time had suggested sticking calipers and that they'd be warranty.
A few days later I brought the truck back in to have the brakes looked at and an unrelated warranty item done. They looked and said the calipers aren't sticking and the rotors are grooved and rusted, particularly the inside surface. They wanted to put new pads on and turn the rotors for 400 bucks.
I had a hard time believing it wasn't the calipers, and I was having a hard time getting a good explanation from the service writer of what was going on. So I took the truck back and pulled the pass side tire off in the driveway to take a good look.
As far as I can tell, the calipers are free. The slide pins are nicely lubed and are free, and the pads are free to move in the anti-rattle clips. I squeezed the piston back with a set of C clamps and it seemed to be good. Also, the pads are wearing more or less evenly (not tapered or anything), just the inside is worn significantly more than the outside.
So, rotors wearing out in 23k miles? They aren't really warped, just heavily grooved. My theory at this point is that the weeks the truck spends sitting allows too much corrosion to build up on the rotor, which is getting caught up and wearing down the pads and rotor. Maybe the outside of the rotor isn't nearly as bad because it gets hosed down and washed more frequently?
Inside rotor surface
Outside rotor surface
Inside pad surface.
I still have 7 months of bumper to bumper warranty. Ford says the only cover brakes if the damage is caused by a caliper, so I think I'm out of luck on that front.
OK, I just got back from having pads and rotors install on my '99 Passat. I was expecting this to clear up the brake and abs light problem but it did not. The brakes still feel mushy and the ABS light still comes on.What should I check? In the brake forum people suggested bleading the brakes, is this the next step? Any quick how to?
View 3 RepliesSo my brakes have been squeaking for the past week. Brought it in to the dealership. They said i need new front brake pads. I only have 22k miles on my 3is and that seems like a really look mileage for the breaks to be worn off. I dont track ny car and i pretty much drive slow. How long are your brake pads lasting? Is this normal for the 3is pads to wear off this fast?
View 14 RepliesHere is the problem. When I reversed the car out of the driveway i noticed it would not reverse freely. It felt as though something was blocking the car (as though the handbrake was still on).. When i turn left and right going slowly it feels like the car is jerking and the brake pads are sticking to the rotors.. Its the same when i reverse but I only feel it when im going slowly and the sound gets louder when turning left or right...
I checked all my break pads and rotors.. Im thinking it could be something with the haldex system... Hope not.. My haldex fluid was changed at 80k and im at 88k now..
What is the proper procedure in changing the brake pads without unbolting the caliper?
View 7 RepliesReplace front brake pads, rotors, and sensors. the front brake pad sensor was touching the rotor. Car still has brake pad lite on. Replace front sensors again just in case one was defective. Replace rear sensors, still lite is on.
View 4 RepliesI have an 07 Prius that's been going great for me. About two weeks ago I get this strange error message about my P Lock mechanism and how I need to be parked on a flat surface with the parking brake fully engaged. The car wouldn't start, just a bunch of warning lights. Finally I replaced the 12v battery at the dealership.
View 8 RepliesIt's happened the last two times I've washed the car. I thoroughly cleaned the wheels with Sonax followed by soapy water, then washed the rest of the car. After washing, my usual routine is an initial towel dry, then I take the car for a short drive to shake the excess water out of crevices & the wheels, followed by the final towel dry & detailing.
This is happening on all four wheels. I know my front rotors are nearing their end of life, but the rears should have plenty of life in them (45K miles).
I put on new Power Stop drilled and slotted rotors with Hawk ceramic pads. I did the brake in runs and could feel the stopping power improving. When I got back to the house I looked at the rotors and I noticed that on the driver's side the pads are not parallel to the rotor. They are hitting on the outer edge of the outboard side and the inner edge (closest to the hub) on the inboard side. Took it all back apart and I can't see and reason for this. Double checked all the mating surfaces and didn't see any problems. I torqued the caliper brackets to 150 ftlbs and the lug nuts also to 150 ftlbs. Is it a problem the caliper sliders?
View 9 RepliesI replaced my warped front brake rotors a couple thousand miles ago and all was fine but when I went to swap over to my snow tires, I can see that the outer part of the rotor has been rubbing on the caliper bracket. This is happening on both front rotors. Could my new rotors be too thick or something?
View 4 RepliesI've had a 2006 Passat 4Motion for about 15 Months now and it just went in for it's 20k mile service. The dealer told me that the front pads and rotors were shot, and the rear pads needed to be replaced.
I've read that the front brakes are rather easy to change but my question is: are there any aftermarket pads and/or rotors that last longer than the OEM ones? I just don't think I want to do brakes every 20k miles. Now in regards to the rear brakes, apparently my rotors are okay but my pads need to be replaced. I've read that you need the VW "Vag Com" to do that and I'm new to VW software stuff.
My front disks are pulsing & the thickness is near minimum, so I guess I'll have to replace them soon. Is any particular brand better than others?
These stock ones are made by Bosch and I'm not impressed with their lack of resistance to warpage. I see "Drilled and Slotted" available at Rockauto. What's your experience? Are they any good?
I've got a 2011 XLT. The front rotors have been turned twice already in 39k miles. Once at 12k and again around 24k covered under warranty. It starting having vibrations on the highway and shuddering when braking again around 36k. Tired of dealing with the OEM rotors and told it would no longer be covered under warranty I went to Autozone and got duralast rotors and pads for the front.
Swapped them out Friday
- took caliper off
- removed pads
- took caliper bracket off
- swapped rotor
- opened bleed valve to push back piston(used a vise/c clamp combo)
- closed valve with piston under pressure
- put in new pads
- placed caliper bracket back on
I did not remove the pins, they seemed to slide fine and the remaining hardware still looks fairly new.
Took it out all was good, bedded the brakes a bit and called it a night. Come out this morning and start to head out and it's shaking like crazy now once above 40 mph. Made it back this afternoon and took the passenger side off and its not making full contact with the rotors. I've read this can be common until the pads are broken in. Driver side appears fine, pads appear to be bedding fine and nothing looks out of the ordinary, I took the caliper back off but had to open the bleed valve to get it loose enough to let go of the pads.
I've even taken the passenger side back off and reset the piston again just to make sure.
Put everything back together and take it for a spin. Truck seems worse now even at slow speeds 25-50mph. Once the brakes start getting hot from stopping the shaking goes away. When the brakes start cooling back down it comes right back.
Going to swap back the OEM rotors and retest in the morning. Will take the new ones back If that puts it back to normal I may just replace with OEM ones then. The brakes work perfect it's just the shaking that I can't seem to figure out.
Anything to check? It seems like the new rotors are warped
Just thought I'd ask, I was at the dealer last week and while there asked them to take a look at my brakes because they were making a slight screeching sound but only when first applied when speed was slow.
They said it all looked good but that the sound I was hearing was from grooves that had been etched into the driver's side front rotor. I find it hard to believe that my rotor would have grooves in it after only 21k miles, considering I don't track it or drive it aggressively that would have caused that.
Today as I was adding pressure to my tires I noticed the front brake pads were wearing unevenly. Both outer pads wore the same. More "meat" on the inner section of pads than on the outer, evenly worn, just sort of slanted down as you move out towards the outer rim of the brake disk.
Is this normal? What would cause this? Should I have it looked at? I've never seen anything but even pad wear, perfectly parallel to the brake disk.
Edit for these pictures to clarify.....