Lexus IS 2014+ :: Floored The Car For About 2 To 3 Seconds On Cold Engine
Apr 20, 2014
Paranoid about my car. Basically what happened was after work I walked to my car and there were a bunch of guys who were meeting up in the parking lot and were complementing me on the car . I always let the car idle until RPM reaches 1,000 and I did that today and as I was driving off I decided to show off a little and I floored it . just for about 2-3 seconds. it was about 70 degrees out and the car was sitting in the sun so the engine shouldn't have been to cold
I know it is bad to floor a car on a cold engine, so my question is how bad could I have potentially damaged my engine? it was sitting for about 3 minutes and RPM idled out to 1 but the hot/cold bar hadn't risen yet. it was the first time I did it on a cold engine and I bought the car so I want to do whats right to keep it running smoothly.
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The tranny is a bit rough when the engine is cold. I understand cars run differently when they are cold (I'm not disputing that) but my prev 2IS' tranny use to be much smoother when running cold. I took my car to a dealer, made them keep it overnight and test when cold. They said the car is operating normal and the master tech didn't notice anything out of the norm. The car is jerky on the daily so it's not an isolated incident.
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I finally made a recording (attached), I would suggest listening to it with headphones if possible. The noise I'm referring to is featured between the 0:28 and 1:00 marks. You can hear it again from about 1:10 to 1:25.
Just to recap:
2014 GX Premium pkg.
4400 miles
93 Octane always
The sequence of events is such:
1- Car is parked overnight in garage, air temperature is 60 degrees or less
2- Start car, pull out of garage
3- Put car in D
4- Drive to stop sign at end of street
5- The transmission downshifts and engine revs slightly as the car comes to a stop
6- After sitting at the stop for a few seconds, foot on brake, engine at idle, it starts to make that thumping/clunk noise
7- Noise stops once I start moving again, and does not come back once the engine is warmed up
Note: This happens whenever the temperature is 60 degrees or below and the engine is cold/car has been sitting overnight. All accessory systems were shut off for this recording/demonstration (no A/C or heat running, no radio or other accessories on).
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Experienced a ticking noise when at WOT with the 4.2 V8 engine? When cruising around the engine sounds fine, but when floored the engine (i believe) is ticking at higher rpms. Hard to believe its the engine, only 24k miles on it, with regularly changed oil. Sounds like either detonation or valve interference.
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2014 se , 7k miles. Get a pretty noticeable sound. its hard to explain its kinda like a grumble for about two seconds. on very cold weather starts.
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2008 R32 with 106K. Have always used Mid Grade (89) octane since owning. Drive approx 800 miles a week. Has always run exceptionally well up until about two weeks ago. Three weeks ago installed Borla Cat Back. Still Ran Great. After two weeks the engine started stalling out when you floor the car which coincided with the Heat Wave we just had. Several weeks in the triple digits.
VW Dealer did a diagnostic and found no Codes. VW dealer sent info off to VW and they said I had regular gas, (which I did have mid-grade). I was told to stop using mid-grade and use 91 0r 93 octane. Service Writer told me I had carbon build-up from regular gas.
Today I had the BW Induction Service done and no change, engine still stalls out. At this point, I a not sure how to proceed to correct the stalling. I am leaving tomorrow on an 800 mile business trip. the engine runs great up to about 3/4 throttle or when floored. I have filled up today with shell 93 octane and will continue to use 91 or higher.
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Audio is delayed by about 2-3 seconds when I play music thru the USB and when I stream audio thru Bluetooth, there's little to no delay. Is that normal? Can it be fixed?
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When I started my car, there was this fishy smell coming out from air condition for about few seconds and then it was gone. I parked my car outside all the time and I was wondering if it had anything to do with the heat or because of exposing the car under the sun for too long? I just changed my air filter about 3000k miles ago.
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The last few days I have noticed that after starting my car my master warning light appears for about 15 seconds and the disappears. Seems to stay illuminated longer than normal. Few questions....
Does the master warning light illuminate every time the car starts?
Does the warning light stay indicated for a while before going off or should it appear and disappear within a few seconds?
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I have an '06 trailblazer with the 5.3 engine. When it's cold outside Freezing and below. The engine will start. Run for three seconds. And shutdown. Pass lock light stays solid. The engine won't crank for about a minute. And it'll do the same thing. If it's about 40 or above. No problems.
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I started having an issue when the weather changed here on the East this weekend. When I start my car in the morning the engine knocks for about 30 seconds and then stops. I also recently got an oil change at some local mechanic shop and wondered if that might be the issue. I checked the oil and it was stellar this morning but I'm not sure what kind they put in there. I would assume it's the required type.
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I have a 2000 Accent with 90k miles. The last week or two, it takes about 5- 6 seconds of cranking to start when the engine is cold. Having had the car since new, I know that it's not normal.
The engine seems to crank strongly, and once started idles and drives well. This occurs once about every 4 starts when engine cold. Warm engine starts normal.
Changed plugs - no difference. Maintenance current per owners manual schedule.
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I recently bought an 02 Chrysler sebring (4 cyl) When cold, it takes about 5-10 secs of cranking for engine to start. Is that normal?
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I have a 2002 F150 5.4 2 valve. only when the engine is cold, everyone once in a while the engine will surge up and down about 2-300 RPMs for about 10 seconds. also right when I put it in drive it will surge. I was thinking about pulling off the trottle body and cleaning it.
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A minor but persistent (year-long) rough idle on my 1991 240 has quickly turned into a Cold Start Nightmare over the past month:
SITTING HOURS OVERNIGHT (50 to 60-degree temp. overnight) - When I attempt to start in the morning, the engine idles high for 3-5 seconds and then immediately dies. To successfully start, I must keep pressing the accelerator pedal at least half-way down for 2-3 minutes. The engine sputters, almost backfires, shakes, lopes, almost dies, etc. After 2-3 minutes, everything runs just fine.
WARM ENGINE SITTING - Once the engine is warmed up, it will consistently start without problems. Still a slightly rough idle, but OK. The car does not die.
I have changed the battery, coolant temp. sensor, and spark plug wires.
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I have a Hyundai Elantra Limited 2012. A few months ago the Short Block was replaced because the engine was noisy. Now it started to do that noise, if I remember it's a little bit similar : Youtube video: [URL] .... Or search youtube for: Hyundai elantra 2012 engine rattle noise
It rattled very loud for 1 or 2 seconds on a cold start the other day too. Noise appears to be coming from the engine. It does it pretty much all the time, at idling, when I accelerate it accelerates too and when I slow down it kinds of do too slowly. Need another new short block or is it something else like the timing chain or a bearing?
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Recently I've been noticing a gas smell after parking my car after the drive home from work, but engine performance and mileage efficiency didn't seem affected, and I found no visible evidence of leaking on the ground (nor in the engine, but I likely don't know the right places to look).
Today, with the engine running, I looked around the engine to see if I could locate any gas leakage -- I located the fuel pressure regulator (I think; a golf-ball sized acorn on the right of the engine with a hose coming in the top and a pipe coming out the bottom and going down and to the left) and didn't see any leaking during my brief test. I'll check it again after my drive home tonight.
One new thing I did discover, though; while in park, when I slowly pressed on the accelerator, there would be a point where the engine started losing power and going into a rev/slowdown cycle: about a second or two of revving, then a half second of slowing down. This was while cold and in park; I've not experienced this in normal driving.
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I've got a 2003 f150 with the 5.4 and 128,000 miles with an engine tick. Its not an exhaust leak I know that for sure. It has came up in the last 20,000 miles. I've used motorcraft 5 20 w/ motorcraft filter. I've tried a kreen engine treatment with no change. Heres the description/syptoms:
-Slight clatter for 2-3 seconds upon cold startup (happens very rarely)
-top end ticking that is loudest and most noticable when warm (quieter when motors cold)
-not timing chains/tensioners etc because the noise is coming from the top end and most noticeable on the passenger side.
-at idle the tick is present-when you rev at idle, the noise goes away.
-Driving (or having the engine under any load for that matter) the noise gets louder.
-Anytime I accelerate, tow/haul, go up an incline the noise gets worse
-Sounds like a "whirring" sound from within the dash.
With all that said I am thinking the lash adjusters are getting noisy. I had a certified gm tech that has 40 yrs mechanic experience under his belt and builds prostreet muscle cars on the side look at it. He listened to it to it and that was his diagnosis as well as its not that bad so just live with it. The noise at idle doesn't bother me, its when im driving with the windows down. The noise drives me crazy and is a little annoying to me.
Heres a link to a video of the sound and keep in mind it is much louder now : Triton engine noise/tick - YouTube
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Have a 2011 F150 with the 5.0. 91K miles. On startup-cold or warm-there is a ticking/tapping noise coming from the engine for about 3-5 seconds then it goes away. Happens on every single start. Sound like it's coming from driver side on top of engine, but hard to pin point.
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I have 3,500 miles on my RWD '14 F Sport. I have been noticing since its been getting colder, that the transmission is jerky for about the first 5 miles of my morning drive. It's like that even if I let my car warm up for a minute, instead of just taking off right when I start it. It's a lot more hesitant to downshift one gear for an incline. And when it does, it's slow, sloppy and then clunks.
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I have a 2014 Lexus IS350 Fsport. When I press the button outside air mode and no fans are on. I get warm/hot air even when the outside temp is cold.
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