how to find a floor jack that is low enough and has a long enough chassis to get to the central jacking points of the IS? I have 2 different models and there is no way they are long enough to reach the identified jack points but still allow for handle movement. Need to change my winter wheels and don't want to use the floor jack on the pinch weld jacking positions. Also don't really want to use the onboard jack....
View 6 RepliesWent to change the front brake pads on my 2010 F150 today which has 80,000 miles on it and is 2wd. Prior to taking the wheels off we noticed that it takes both hands grabbing the wheel and a significant amount of umph to get them to spin. As soon as you let go of the wheel it stops moving.
While changing the pads we didn't see anything that seemed misaligned or incorrect. The pistons compressed with ease on both calipers. However we did have to fight to remove the inside pad on both wheels.
After re-install wheels back on, they are still just as hard to try to spin. Is this normal if not what could be the problem and could this be affecting my MPG which i get 18.0....
I want to lower the car with RSR DOWN SPRINGS but I have some people telling me that I will destroy my shocks in time and other people saying its fine.
View 14 Replies2005 f250 240,000 mile has been hard starting a couple of days in the low 20's. Fires and stalls, got it start the first time it acted up but had to long crack with throttle to the floor. A week later would not start at all again fired and stalled. Plugged it in for 2 hours and fired right up. I had the FICM replace at about 150K and all glow plugs at 130K I will check it this weekend. Am I looking at another ficm or something else? Whats the trick to getting them started when they fire and stall. Need to go on a trip and can't plug truck in at airport and temps will be in the teens next week!
View 14 RepliesI don't know what's going on maybe some body can shed a little light on this. If you hold the brake pedal down for a long period of time you can feel the pedal slowly go to the floor. So no problem I'll change the master cylinder bleed everything brand new fluid. Don't drive it much we let the sister in law drive it we'll I jump back into it the other day to go to Home Depot and once again I notice it still does it. Could the hydra brake booster be bleeding by or what's else could be causing this it's driving me insane. I really can't imagine the hydra booster causing a problem but it's new to me. I was thinking about bleeding the brakes again thinking there maybe there's air but I have run 2 bottles of brake fluid through how much more??
View 8 RepliesI sometimes pulloff after a minute then Im off, but slowly until the engine temp gets to the middle. I won't go caveman on it until the oil temp is almost in the middle too (never quite gets to the middle for the engine oil temp)
Is this logic right? Lexus guy told me it'll warm up as you go. If it was like zero degrees out then yes Id let it idle for 10-15 minutes.
Headers will probably be the next mod that I do to my F, I have read a good bit about them on here, but no one really says anything about how they are doing long term ( any issues from heat on engine bay plastics after years of use) or how the coating holds up after years of use as track or DD or just anything else that seems to be an issue over time after being installed.
View 14 RepliesPPE Engineering has been getting lot's of inquires from us ISF owners about the feasibility of making an Equal Length Header for the ISF similar to the one they make for the RCF. Since I am a past customer, live nearby, have another vehicle and am a pretty nice guy they called and asked if I might be interested in having my car test fit for Equal Length Headers.
While discussing this with them, I suggested that if modified RCF Headers wouldn't fit, maybe they could accomplish the equal length task by using long tubes. Well, it seems that RCF headers will in fact fit in an ISF, and the headers they built for me were also Long Tube. How sweet is that? But, the EL, LT headers must be used with the PPE Exhaust due to the exit point of the collector.
I went for Dyno testing yesterday, and it appears I lost 7HP at the top end and gained only 1.5 lb ft of torque at the high end. I also gained grunt at the bottom. My Seat of the Pants tells me the car is faster.
I don't know why it ran out of breath at the high end. Nothing else has changed.
PPE Headers
PPE Dual Mode Exhaust - With HiFlow Cats
Takeda Intake
As far as sound goes, in the cabin with the exhaust open, the drone remains in the same area (between 1900 and 2100 RPM) but is much lower in volume. I can now carry on a phone conversion (with bluetooth hands free) with the exhaust in the open position. The volume level does increase, however, when under acceleration through that RPM range.
Now the ISF does not have a lumpy engine by any means, but it idle with the old headers, the sound (both inside and outside the car) had a sort of lumpy growling quality to it. The sound is now very smooth, again inside and outside. The harmonics seemed to have changed.
Edit - My wheels and tires have changed. I'm now running RCF wheels with larger 295 vs 285 rears, so wheel weight is up a bit!
I took control of a new GTI 2014 Wolfsburg last Thursday. I let my Jetta go early and was able to get into the GTI for a steal. Just got it tinted (photo above), already have a Unitronic intake on the way from CBTuning, I have KW V3's all set for installation, Stabila F+R swaybar in the garage, 034 endlinks in the garage, Whiteline W.A.L.K. kit in the garage, an SPM 3" 'track' downpipe currently on order, SPM trans and engine mounts on order, HPA puck in the garage, and am already working out plans for a custom cat-back exhaust. I will be going Stage II Unitronic for both engine and DSG and will be cleaning/tucking the bay a bit.
But first, a problem... On my first long distance drive to lower Delaware on Friday, I began hearing a 'hmm... hmm... hmm...' noise at 65+ MPH as I drove down 95. It go louder the faster I went, so I eased up figuring a tire or wheel was just screwy.
I brought it back to the dealership Friday afternoon and just had it returned today. All four tires had bald/flat spots and the front left had a nasty bubble, all of which they replaced at no cost, feeling that this was the issue and the solution.
However, I took it out tonight, about 2 hours ago, and the noise returned, the same hum at the same speed (65MPH) and up. I Google'd around and found some solutions that it could possibly just be a bad wheel bearing. The car is brand new and as of tonight, I only have 340~ miles on it. Also, the noise is not constant, but rather every other second, 'hmm.... hmm.... hmm....'.
2009 F-150 XLT Super Crew 5.4 engine. The compressor cycles, but too often to get the interior cold. It has always been like this. While still in warranty Ford said it is fine. A good mechanic hooked it up to his machines and it seemed there is a sensor that said discharge temperature was below zero. Not even close. If there is one, where is this sensor? Is there a way to bypass this proble?
View 2 RepliesI recently lowered my car and installed some CF side skirts, but when I went to go do an oil change, my floor jack barely fit under the car, and when I started jacking it up, it started applying pressure to my CF sideskirt. I was cringing as I was watching it flex, hoping it wouldn't cause the clear coat to "web".
I ended up finding a couple blocks of wood, and drove up on them to get the car an extra inch higher off the ground, but my CF side skirt was still meeting my floor jack. Those of you who are lowered with side splitters/skirts.
I have a 2010 f-150. Started having issues with the blend door actuator located behind the radio so replaced that a couple months ago and fixed issue. Now the a/c will only blow through the defrost and floor vents. I replaced the lower blend door actuator thinking that might be the culprit, but did not fix the problem. What the solution might be.
View 3 RepliesI recently had a leveling kit installed on my 2014 f150 super crew 4wd. When I picked it up, I heard a humming in the front end that ended up being a bad iwe actuator. I took it to the ford dealer and they replaced it. No more humming, but now I have a very annoying vibration in my gas pedal that can also be felt in the floor board and gas pedal. I've had it aligned. I thought it might be my front driveshaft so I put it in neutral while driving and vibration is the same. It gets worse when I get up around 70mph. I also feel small jerks in the gas pedal at these speeds along with the vibration. It vibrates worse under heavy acceleration as well. Cause I can't wait to set my cruise every time I drive it bothers me that much. Only has 10,000 miles on it.
View 3 RepliesI am having an issue with my '14 Camry Se. The rear floor mats are constantly damp. Front mats are dry. There is a ton of condensation that builds up on the windows everyday. I do not believe the ac drain tube is clogged.
View 13 Replies2009 FX4... Every once in a while, I'll feel a vibration in the gas pedal. It happens under acceleration, and typically if I'm pushing down and it has not downshifted yet. Then once it downshifts the vibration is less noticeable.
I have had the mechtronic unit replaced due to harsh shifting and the vibration was there before and after that was replaced. The drive shaft was also replaced due to a click/clinking noise and the vibration was there before and after as well. The harsh shifting and clinking noise was fixed with those repairs, but the vibration is still there. I notice it more when I am towing.
So now that heat of summer is here, I have been running the AC and noticed a problem. The carpet under the floor mat on the passenger side is wet. It is not from the rain but only after I run the AC. There is a good amount of water in the carpet. The condensation also runs out from under the truck like normal. Any fix to keep me from spending money at the dealer? 2011 F150 XLT.
View 10 RepliesIn the last few weeks I have noticed that when I have the control set to floor only (manual system, not dual) I still have more air going to windshield than the floor. I can switch to Windshield/Floor, Center Vent and all seems ok. Just when in floor only it seems to keep going to Windshield. Asked the service rep at last oil change and he said it's normal for some air to always go to the windshield/defrost. I'm going back to dealer and check a new F150 XLT to verify I have a problem.
View 1 RepliesI have an 08 LS460 with 50k miles on it. Most of it city miles. I'm an average driver and not too hard on my brakes. How long should they last?
View 10 RepliesI have 2008 LX, i press brake, green light comes on, pressing button to start everything goes to work (radio, lights, vents etc) but not engine, it does 4 long beeps, then continues beeping. Tried with both keys and both immobilizers, tested batteries, they all good.
View 3 RepliesLike the title says, I sometimes experience a long shift from 1st to 2nd. When the transmission is cold, it seems to shift fine from 1st to 2nd. It isn't until it is warmed up that I get a looong shift. It winds up,,,,, then it shifts. I have no problems in other gears.
View 10 RepliesI'm trying to think of what gets affected on a vehicle which is driven about 20 to 25k miles a year. I'm looking to purchase one with the following description.
2006, 4.7L V8 is bulletproof, but with 165k miles already, what should I look for when inspecting the vehicle?
It's been dealer serviced. Is there anything other than normal wear and tear items that might be negatively impacted by doing so many road trips (lets say 300 miles at a time) That would be around 550 trips of 300 miles in 6 years.
The reason I ask this rather than just looking at the truck is because I'm in Dallas and the truck is at a Houston dealer... So before I drive out there, I wanted to "assume" what affect this kind of usage would do to an engine.