Lexus IS 2014+ :: Engine Warning Light Turned On After 3500 Miles
Feb 23, 2015
So this morning when I started my car for work, the engine warning light turned on.....Last night it was perfectly fine. What surprised me was the car is only 3500 miles in. Why encountered the engine light issue this early in their ownership of the IS?
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So today during my drive I looked down and noticed my check engine light come on! The car has 7k miles on it!! All I've done to it was the ARK cat back and k and n drop in filter. I'm guessing O2 sensor but it's crazy to think a car with 7k miles had a bad sensor. Noticed the car was running a little rough lately but noting too crazy.
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I've noticed a noise coming from my car (2014 IS350 RWD) that sounds like a light, irregular rattle, when the engine is running in the 3500 - 4500 RPM range. I don't hear it necessarily under load, but if I am in manual mode in a lower gear, and let off the throttle, I can hear it.
The best way I can describe the noise is like a bowl of rice crispies (rapid and random), only slightly louder. You have to listen for it, the road/traffic should be quiet, and if you get back on the gas, the intake noise that's plumbed into the cabin pretty much covers it up. I can also hear it in Park or Neutral.... I've wondered if it's a loose heat shield, or an exhaust issue, but I can't hear it standing next to the car or with my head under the hood. I only hear it from the cabin. The rhythm of the noise is irregular.
I don't think it's ping/detonation, since that usually shows up under load, is much louder and has a decidedly metallic sound to it compared to what I'm hearing.
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My check engine light came on at 102,000 miles. The dealer service dept. says that the diagnostic showed no clear cause(?)but I need new spark plugs ($240),ejectors cleaned, and of course the cost of the diagnostic ($130) The total was around $475. Am I being ripped?? My big question is what will they do to get the light out?? Should I disconnect the battery and reset the clock and radio buttons to see if it goes out? Then I can worry again if it comes back on.
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So, driving home from the meet & greet in DC yesterday and when I turned on the headlights, the auto-leveling light came on. It randomly came and went for a bit but was on continuously by the time we got home. Headlights work and are at the correct height. Lights cycle up/down when the key is turned. Other than the warning light, it appears to be working normally.
Of note, this was the first time using the lights after the airbag actuator recall last week. Not sure how it could be connected unless it is a dash connection issue. If not,how to isolate if or which sensor is causing the issue?
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The last few days I have noticed that after starting my car my master warning light appears for about 15 seconds and the disappears. Seems to stay illuminated longer than normal. Few questions....
Does the master warning light illuminate every time the car starts?
Does the warning light stay indicated for a while before going off or should it appear and disappear within a few seconds?
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My is350 F sport tire pressure sensors. Well I have after market wheels with the stock tire pressure sensors, when they were first installed everything was fine, now about 2 months later now that it is a little cooler. My two back sensors are showing the warning light. it still reads the pressure and shows correct pressure but sensor warning light for both rear tires are on. Why this is? I was thinking the colder weather but why only the rear two and not the front. they go off and on but lately both have been on.
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Vehicle has 53000 miles. Check engine light all of sudden came on and the car reduced to 40ish miles per hour and would not exceed it. when parked the vehicle will only go to 3500RPM and then the needle will drop back down. No visible signs of fluids anywhere or any smoke. No sure where to start to see what the issue is.
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The clutch started to slip on my 2006 Matrix at just 32K miles.Only going up hills ~3500rpm, near the engine's torque peak.The previous owner must have dogged it in the 8,100 miles they had it.Unfortunately no way to know that time bomb was there.
Got the car back today. (Excellent indie shop in College Park MD)The flywheel and pressure plate had blue color from overheating.The flywheel had to be resurfaced.The friction disk was not worn down much.The pressure plate springs apparently were weakened from the heat.I can really feel the difference.
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Randomly, on my way home from work yesterday, the ECS light turned on, and stayed on for about 10 miles.
I got home, turned the car on and off, even drove around for 10 more minutes, and the light never turned back on.
Now this morning, on my way to work, the light popped back on and stayed on.
I have a 2011 Santa Fe, 4 cylinder.
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My check engine light just turned on recently. Just hit 115K miles on my SC430 a few weeks ago. Is there a service that I'm missing? Running absolutely fine, oil change recently as well.
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Experiencing cooling problems with a truck this new? My 2 month old supercrew 5.0 began over heating on a road trip last week. After about 400 miles of driving I see coolant temp start climbing until the overheating warning popped up. Pulled over, turned engine off, popped the hood and did not notice any obvious signs of overheating. Ended up waiting about 15 minutes, started truck up again, temp gauge reading 1/2.
Get back on the road, within 5 min temp starts climbing again, reaches ~ 3/4 then all of a sudden returns to 1/2. Continue on 10 min later temp gauge climbs from 1/2 to overheating quickly. I pulled over again same situation no obvious signs of overheating, but allow sometime to cool off. Started truck again temp gauge reads 1/2. Continue driving and temp gauge seems possessed, going from 1/2 to 3/4 back to 1/2 to almost overheating as I nursed it to the next dealer that I could find.
Dealer tech was able to mimic the problem and believes that coolant is not flowing properly. Thermostat replaced, water pump pulled and inspected, air bleed out of the system, all with no improvement. Now heads are being pulled/replaced to see if this solves the problem. Its depressing to have my new truck with 2,382 miles sitting under the knife at the dealer.
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I just bought a 2009 Toyota Camry base. The manual shows the fuel gas turned on when the fuel is lower than 2.8 Gallon. However, after the light was on, I drove about 20 miles, then filled the tank, but only 14.5 Gallon was filled. I was confused, because the tank was 18.5 Gallon per manual, I was thinking about refill around 16.5 Gallon. And how many miles could i drive with the fuel light on? 60 miles?
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I have a 1998 chevy 3500 2wd pickup with a 454 engine. The check engine light is on. I have had the codes read and they were for a MAF and MAP sensors. I have replaced both. The check engine light is still on saying that I have a bad MAF sensor. I replaced it again. The check engine light still is on. What else should I look at to fix this problem??
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Could there be something else going on, or should I really expect to have to replace the pads at 19,000 miles??
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Warning light came on and am wondering if there are others who have had this happen. Had the 15000 mile service just 300 miles ago, car has been in garage for 6 days without use, weather outside in single digits, but garage is 45 degrees. Waiting for tow to dealer.
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My parents are disabled and have a 04 rx330 and with 80k on it. it's not running. here is the problem.
CAR HAS A BRAND NEW BATTERY.
I can unlock the doors, get in the car and try to start it. When the key is turned as far as it will go without starting the car the cluster lights up, all warning lights come on. but that's it. Radio, climate control, windows, donut seats, NOTHING else works. Then when you turn the key to start it nothing happens, Not even a click. power wouldn't work.
things I have tried.
NEW BATTERY, CHECK FUSES, ROCKING THE ROCK IN PARK, STARTING IN NEUTRAL
nothing as worked. I'm pretty much lost now.
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3IS 2014-2015 1/4 miles time and mode?
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When I turn on my car I get a horrible mildew smell from my AC
There's only 3500 miles on it.
It's garaged every night.
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My 1995 Chevy Silverado 1-ton diesel stalls with no warning at various times while driving, such as at intersections, on the freeway, coasting, idling. It may go days or weeks without doing it, then all of a sudden stall eight times in one day. My husband says it has sediment, such as rust, in the fuel tank causing it to clog the fuel line. We've replaced the fuel filter twice, and we keep the tank topped off with gas, but it still does this out of the blue at times. I no longer trust the vehicle and will not haul the horse trailer using it, which is why I have the vehicle in the first place. By the way, the problem began after the truck sat for several cold winter months due to drained batteries. After we replaced the batteries to get it running again, it began stalling like this on a semi-regular basis. If it is rust or sediment in the fuel tank, what can we do to fix that? Could it be something else causing the problem?
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I have a 2003 Lincoln Navigator with 156K miles. The engine shut down without warning. Towed it to the nearest Ford dealership. They could not find any codes from the computer, but note that compression was lost in the left cylinder bank. The mechanics said the likely cause is a cracked cylinder head and this known to occur in my model year.
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