Eco/Normal/Sport S/S+ Mode... the literature doesnt say much except it changes throttle response and power output. For the Sport modes it says that "The rear-wheel drive IS 350 F SPORT's Sport S+ mode also tightens the suspension..." Are the shocks somehow adjustable, or is this just marketing BS?
View 14 RepliesWhen you're driving, how often do you change driving modes? (Eco, Normal, Sport/Sport+)
View 14 RepliesSo after figuring out that my 08 is in power mode and will not automatically go back to econo mode ... how can I manually change modes on a GEN II? I know there is a way as I got it in that mode and can't get it out!
View 19 RepliesMy wife got a 2014 Tiguan (R-Line) yesterday. Nice car but throttle response is slow.
Wondered to know about APR Stage 1 tune on a Tiguan.
Title says it all come to a stop, step on throttle nothing, let off and step on it again it goes, does some one have to be killed before Ford knows there's a problem, it's happened to me 3 or 4 times in the last month, dealer checked said there's no codes so nothing wrong. OK I forgot the good info 2014 eco screw 4X4.
View 12 RepliesResetting Throttle Response. I came across this video, bored and just playing around, and tried it on my 2013.......and it works! Turn the ignition key to the run position, then slowly press the accelerator pedal to the floor. Then let the pedal up fast, then turn the ignition off. Do this 3 times, and on the last time, also turn the ignition off. I was amazed that that the lagging pedal response was almost completely gone!
View 4 RepliesExperiencing sluggish throttle response on the EFI Ecoboost? I have had several incidents where I'm needing to change lanes fast and the response is a dead second or two before the motor catches up to the throttle position. Then, it rockets forward at full throttle to catch up. By that time it's too late to change lanes and I have to be on the brakes hard to keep from rear ending the guy in front of me. I'm coming from a carburetored Toyota Tacoma that was far more responsive (minus the power) then this truck. I never felt hesitant to jump on it and go. Now I feel like my life depends on waiting until I have all day to change lanes, make a left turn or pass a slow moving vehicle on a two lane road. Is this something the dealer can adjust?
View 14 RepliesI was driving home yesterday, when all of a sudden felt like the car downshifted by its self. I tried giving it gas but nothing happened. The car still starts up and runs fine there's just no throttle response. I had to drive it home by riding the gears. Today i scanned the car and a few codes came up. I already had some previous codes because my secondary air injection pump is deleted and same with an evap solenoid also had some codes for injectors but im pretty sure that's cause they're not stock and the resistance isn't the same. The codes that popped up including the previous ones.
P1631 accelerator position sensor g79
P1634 accelerator position sensor limp mode?
p1469 evap code
P1433 secondary air pump
P1690 malfunctioning cell light
Im pretty sure that's what each code is for. The last 3 codes were previously existing and the car drove fine.
Anyways i tried cleaning up the contacts on the gas pedal, didn't work. So I looked under my car to look for damaged 02 wires, which i found. Did a super shotty temporary fix, and still nothing works. I heard maybe it could be my ecu? The car is a 1999.5 golf originally a 2.0 but has been swapped with a awp 1.8t out of a 20th, 5 speed Lots of work done to the engine.
Its been happening to me for a while now, but it seems to be more frequent. ill b driving around casually, go to pass someone or just accelerate hard then quickly up shift and get back on the throttle. I hear the engine begin to rev up again after the gear change but it takes a second or so until i feel the car continue accelerating. also i can feel the haldex system when it switches between fwd and awd or whatever it does. like you can hear it catch and def feel it lurch around. and clutch pedal vibrate a lot when any pressure is applied to it. is this normal?
View 24 RepliesI find it hard to smoothly accelerate from a stop with my V6 DSG. I have to be very careful how much pressure I apply to the gas to get a smooth take off...too easy to accelerate to fast or break the tires loose. Can this be reprogrammed?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2013 Non-F Sport Model with Navigation and was wondering if there was a secret on HOW To TURN OFF the Navigation? Not the whole screen, just the Navigation part. I see how to turn off the screen but I want to just see my Radio/SAT menu on the screen as I do not use Navigation that often. Right now Navigation is always on and takes up 3/4 of the screen!
also... is is safe to drive in any of the 3 modes (eco, normal, sport) ALL the time in all conditions ? As in using Eco for driving all the time (city and highway), or is one better than the other for certain conditions.
The throttle response from a standstill seems VERY slow. When I push down the accelerator, it seems to go down a good 3-4 inches before I meet any significant resistance, and even then, I can do a good 2 second count before the engine seems to engage. If I am stopped at a light, and I slightly blip the accelerator, then push the pedal down, it does better. But if I am stopped and floor the gas pedal, nothing happens....at ALL...for at least 2 seconds. It is slightly better when in manual, but the issue is enough for even my wife to comment that it takes off very slowly when you first give it gas.
View 14 RepliesI have just taken a red mk4 r32 home. It feels really down on power and throttle is really snappy when try to take off.
If im going along at any speed say 20-50mph and lift the throttle off it gets a quick burst of acceleration. I think its had a Celtic remap if that means anything. also gets some crackling and popping even with the cats still on it.
Also cleaned the throttle body made no difference. I am also sure i can hear a vacuum leak when going through streets. Just replaced MAF and Lambda sensor. no other codes coming up on diagnostics.
i got a 99 F250 powerstroke with 148K on its clock, i have a couple issues that i cant find a definitive answer for, 1 just started recently, Its an automatic and when it shifts into third around 40 mph the rpms drop to 1200-1300 or so, its done it since i got it, but recently it wont accelerate like it should or used to do, i have to put it down and make it downshift to recover.
Now I have no CEL. and it is still running perfect just has very little power, I do have a 4 inch turbo back exhaust and have a TS 6 position chip with i usually run in +50hp mode, but it does this in all positions. Now issue 2 is when its 30 degrees sometimes it will not start. It'll turn over with now fire. but if i cycle the key again it'll fire right up like a champ? It has a 4 month old starter and batteries and a month old alternator and i have tried several CPS' and Contently check the connections.
Had brought this up before but it seems like the thread got black holed. After my car warms up, it feels quite a bit down on power and throttle response is a bit jerky. I just replaced the MAF and the coils hopping it would work, no codes on VAG Com. I was thinking maybe the green coolant temp sensor went out ? Car does backfire a bit when decelerating. Also the RPMs drop down a bit slower than normal lately.
Cam sensors are not loose.
GIAC chip, EVO intake + stage 2, exhaust. 134k miles.
I just changed timing belt all accessory belts and water pump on my 2001 Hyundai Elantra. Now the check engine light is on and it is sluggish in throttle response. It sounds smooth. I was quite sure I had the cam and crank marks dead on. I turned it 2 revolutions by hand and they both looked dead on before I started it. If I were off 1 or 2 teeth would that be the cause? And if so how do I fix it? Also will it hurt it to drive it that way?
View 2 RepliesIn the mornings no power/ no throttle response when cold, another starts at same day fine til next morning. Car is golf iv vr6 4 motion...
5 Faults Found:
17535 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Mult): System too Rich
P1127 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17537 - Fuel Trim: Bank 2 (Mult): System too Rich
P1129 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17545 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Add): System too Rich
P1137 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17547 - Fuel Trim: Bank 2 (Add): System too Rich
P1139 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17551 - Load Calculation Cross Check: Upper Limit Exceeded
P1143 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Also O2 sensor show on idle -20% to -15% (engine temp 60 C) but vagcom normal was (-10% to 10%) (after reading from ross-tech, maybe O2 readings are off because running rich) and intake air temp was 29`C but outside were 17`C, it has new maf...
My 7.3 has no throttle response, the code reader says pass, and there are no codes, would it do this even thow it has a bad TPS?
View 4 RepliesI was driving in tip yesterday and some of time that 3-2 downshift is choppy b/c revs dont match. So i tried a modified heel-toe, timing it so that i pressed the gas while the engine was disengaged i got a little rpm boost but then nothing as if during the shift the throttle was cut. is this possibly a safety feature to prevent unnecessary wear? or is it just not possible with a tip?
View 6 RepliesI have a 99 F450 with the 7.3L in it. I brought it home the other day and parked it. Later I went to do something with it and I had no throttle response at all. I checked the wiring going in and coming out of the throttle position sensor. I have approx. 5 volts going in and the voltage sits at about .5 volts and rises as the accelerator is depressed on the outgoing wire. The other switch on the pedal is open and does close when the pedal is depressed, so it seems those are fine. I'm not sure what I'm supposed to have on the 3rd wire that goes to the TPS.
I have a Bully Dog tuner and it shows an exhaust back pressure sensor error and a couple of voltage errors to the accelerator pedal. I read somewhere that someone had an exhaust sensor short out and it starved the accelerator pedal from voltage or something like that but I do have good voltage at the pedal going in and out. I ordered a new sensor and tube.
If the exhaust pressure sensor was shorting out and I unhooked the wires could that make the pedal work if the sensor was the problem or would the accelerator pedal not work at all without that sensor being connected? (The old tube was somewhat plugged up and I saw it had a small rust hole in it)
If it's not the sensor, what else can I check? Where can I check under the hood to see if the wires from the TPS are getting power to where they need to? I assume they go to the computer and that tells the pump or whatever to give more fuel.
So while driving just now the truck went down to idle and no matter what I did to the gas pedal the throttle would not change. The truck didn't die but would just sit at idle. It was like the gas pedal wasn't connected. About a minute later it surged a little and then I was able to drive like normal.
History- last week while at a red light the engine surged and then almost died. Light changed and I hit the gas....and stayed at idle...then died. Restarted and died two more times and then just drove like normal. Changed fuel filters and and checked fuel pressure. Under boost it was 38-40 psi. Idle it was 45. Cac tube replaced due to cracks.