Lexus IS 2014+ :: AC Smells Musty / Compressor Blowing Hot Air
Jul 8, 2015
I noticed that if i'm turning my car on for the first time in a day (12-24 hours) on a hot day (80F + ) , the compressor on the AC doesn't kick on for about 3-4 minutes. It just blows out hot air for those first few minutes. Once it kicks on and i turn the car off and then on again some time during the day the compressor kicks on right away and cold air starts to blow normally.
My RX350 pumps out cold air almost asap, and so did my accord. My AC seems to have a musty smell if it hasn't been turned on in a few days either. it goes away as soon as air starts moving. How do I get rid of this permanently?
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I have a 2012 truck that the AC wasn't blowing cold air this summer so I took it in and they said nothing was wrong... Took back in and they replaced vent control... worked a little bit. Fall came and my windows fog up and really never clears up so I take it in and they said it is blowing hot air but I told them that isn't the problem but the moister in the cab is the problem. I feel I'm getting the run around.
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First warm week of the year now my 2014 is blowing hot air! I played with all the appropriate buttons. Air on, air off, tried voice commands and no luck. From what I have read is could be the pressure switch or the compressor. The compressor is definitely not engaging and at 17,500 miles I would think there was still freon in it. I have not done a system diagnosis yet..not sure how.
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I noticed that if i don't use my car for more than 3 days, it take my A/C compressor more than a minute to engage. Once it engages, every is ok. A/C is cold and everything is back to normal. Is that a safety feature for our compressor?
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It's a '00 zr2, usually after 15-20mins driving I see smoke blowing out rear at highway speed. If I'm driving slow same results with smoke just rolls out from hood. Smells like trans fluid although doesn't seem like the level is any lower yet.... Guessing gasket when under pressure, I would guess passenger side hitting manifold but I haven't seen obvious leaks don't know where to start.
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2006 overheats and starts blowing white smoke, smells like antifreeze, added 2 gals of water to make it 1 mile home. Smokes on the way @195 temp and when I shut it off it smokes out tailpipe for another 3 min. Smells like the head gaskets just went, what should I check? The eot and ect have been 10 deg or less.
This has 225,000 miles on it ran great before this, so would it be stupid too not get a redone set of heads while I'm doing the gaskets and studs?
I was thinking of getting heads from here, UCF Machine Shop - Precision machining, engine rebuilding and more. Cummins + Ford Rebuild Specialist. And a Sinister Diesel Complete Solution For Ford Powerstroke 2003-2007 6.0L. Are these the right places to deal with or should I look elsewhere?
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I have a 13 5.0l, right now its at about 36 k and the next oil change is scheduled for 39k (kilometers), starting today whenever I fire it up i get the change oil soon prompt on my cluster monitor. So I checked the oil and it is at a good level and looks clean, but it smells like 2 stroke/it smells like there's gas in it.
I will call the dealer tmo morning and see what they say. Has any one else ran into this issue with there coyotes or egoboosts? I did google the issue and it seems like a problem with a fuel pump diaphragm?
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I bought a used a 2008 LS600hL and noticed that when I run the fresh air setting with the AC off (like in winter) I get a musty smell in the cabin. I had Stevens Creek Lexus (Santa Clara Ca.) check it out and they tried to put a fragrance on it but that wore off after a few days. I have no problems with the water drainage (they checked) but wonder if I need to pull the AC coils and replace or something like that.
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Every time I get in and start up my GX it omits a moldy / musty smell out of the vents, it stinks! It goes away in a matter of seconds but it seems at every start up I get that smell again, it's kind of embarrassing.
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I have a question with aftermarket exhaust (particularly JoeZ and Borla) I was wondering after you installed the exhaust do you now get increased exhaust fume smells in the cabin when the windows or moonroof is open? When I had my 350(F-sport exhaust) I couldn't cruise with the moonroof open without filling the cabin up with fumes.
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Smells like antifreeze but i can't find any leaks or wet spots on the carpet and the coolant level is good where should I look. Just replaced heater core last winter.
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Getting a sour, moldy, or musty smell when the car starts and the air is pushed out the front vents. I know its getting hot and humid here in midwest but kind of started before and smell got gradually worst with humidity. It goes away in like 15 seconds but its a pain to have a new/used care and it smell like a 16 year boy when you start up. Though the AC filter might be moldy or has some funk on it.
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I am a mechanic and tow operator running a late 99 f350 7.3 6 speed cab and chassis wrecker. This truck has had a hard life and has been neglected for quite some time, and now has become my baby/headache. Truck starts great, idles nice, and will run great for about 5 minutes until it starts billowing white smoke that smells like fuel and loses all power. If you continue to drive it it will die. Sounds like it's dropping cylinders and will barely idle. If you stop for 5 minutes or so and let it idle it will smooth back out and will run great again for another minute or two, then right back to stumbling.
Using torque app, hpop pressure looks good when it's running well. Peaks at 3k, IPR maintaining 30-40% max. As soon as it stumbles you can see the hpop drop to 5-600 and the IPR will climb to 65%. Let it idea bit and they go back to normal, and stay good until it stumbles again.
Ive changed the fuel pump, ICP,rebuilt FPR, change fuel filter, pulled and cleaned the fuel tank (metal tank, no delamination, looks perfect inside). Pickup screen looked good. Cleaned the IPR, cleaned the hpop reservoir, there was no screen inside. Checked voltage at fuel pump, 11.78 across the pump with it running. Pulled valve covers, no noticeable leaks around injectors. Injectors have less than 5k miles. Remans with 100% larger tips.
To me it seems like the lpop is not keeping up with the hpop under load, starving it until you idle and let it catch up. Could it still be bad injector orings? Bad lpop? Something I'm not thinking of?
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My Prius kept draining freon and they couldn't find a leak. Finally, a few mechanics later, they said my compressor was bad and replaced it. It was 1200+ for the repair, but it has a 12 month warranty. A/C was already getting less cold only a couple months later, but when I took it in, they said it's fine. Well, now it's been 10 months since the repair and it's blowing hot air. It progressively got worse and worse and I've been dreading taking it back but finally am. It's a 2005 with 125,000 miles.
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My 2006 Sonata GLS 3.3 A/C started blowing warm, so I checked all the fuses and they were good. Swapped the relays and still nothing so I check the wire to the compressor and it was reading 14v. This would lead me to believe the a/c clutch is bad, I didn't want to replace just the clutch incase my compressor craps out on me later on so I'm just replacing the whole thing now. My questions is how much oil does a new compressor need?
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I've got a 2007 Sonata that has started blowing HOT air. It's like the compressor isn't on. In looking for the issue, I looked for blown fuses first because I find it hard to believe that the AC would work fine and then stop working minutes later. Sure enough, I found a blown A CON fuse in the fuse box under the hood. No problem right? Just replace it and everything will be A-OK. WRONG. Every time I replace the fuse and test the AC it blows. I'm thinking maybe something with the relay?
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Says A/C Compressor Clutch Circuit open. A/C blows hot air....go to VENT and the EATC controls the temp fine (ambient air only). It's on a '97 Lincoln Mark VIII if it makes any difference. Pulled code # 1530 ...
Clutch does not engage but the compressor does turn. Also the EATC will NOT go into the test mode. Push OFF and Floor at same time, then AUTO within two seconds. Nothing. Is this a clutch gap problem? New clutch was installed about a year ago.
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In my 08 Expedition I notice the a/c compressor cycles on for 18-25 sec. then off for about the same. This is with an ambient temp of about 75f. A/C seems to be blowing cool air-never was really cold since new. The idle drops/surges a bit when the a/c kicks on also-which is what grabbed my attention. Is this a normal or is it short cycling?
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The Truck: 94 F-150 XLT 5-speed 300-I6
The Problem: AC blowing hot air.
What I've done: Start the truck, look at the compressor, (looks like it's spinning to me), engage the AC, look again (yep the pully on the compressor is still spinning).
And that's pretty much where i stopped, cause i don't know what i'm looking for, should i be seeing it not spin if it where seized, and whats next on the list to check.
I assume that it's not seized at this point and it must be something else, like a control, keeping it from working.
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98 e150 - 4.6l, 185k, My air started blowing warm the other day. It worked perfectly fine. I checked the compressor to see if it was turning. Nope! I am wondering if it could be the clutch?
I replaced the alternator and changed the serpentine belt a couple of months ago and noticed a very slight whining sound sometime after I did this. I thought something might be going and just ignored it and said to myself, that's all the new tread in the new belt whining a little. Could be! not sure.
Anyway, where could I possibly start an easy procedure to see why the failure in the compressor not turning? Compressor is a lot harder to get at than an alternator!
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To start I have a 1991 super duty with a 7.3 in it. I replaced the evaporator, dryer and orifice tube. I added 4 cans of Freon and the a/c still blew warm so I added another can same result. I put one of the throw away gauges on the truck and it read empty so now I'm mad thinking it all leaked out only other option I could think of was to replace the condenser so went to break the lines to change it and Freon came spewing out so I tightened the lines back up and added another can of Freon still warm.
I got good gauges and hooked them up to high and low sides. High side was reading 100+ and low side was around 100 maybe a little lower. Oh yeah the compressor will come on and go right back off. So I let some of the Freon out and dropped the pressure down to 50 the high side was still a little below 100 so I let a little more out and now there is no Freon in the system again.
The lines never got cold and the dryer stayed warm the whole time. The first time I put Freon in before I started replacing stuff the dryer would get ice cold. My only thought is maybe the compressor is bad but I was told it was just replaced but Freon was never put in it. Oh and when I put the new parts in I replaced the orings in the compressor and put new oil in the compressor.
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