I noticed that if i don't use my car for more than 3 days, it take my A/C compressor more than a minute to engage. Once it engages, every is ok. A/C is cold and everything is back to normal. Is that a safety feature for our compressor?
View 14 RepliesEvery morning 1.8T idles high when warming up usually takes a minute or two to idle down. When your running late kind of annoying when I drive before idle goes down to normal brakes seem way to responsive and jerky...
View 9 RepliesI have a 2015 IS 350 F-Sport with just under 9K miles. Occasionally, the car takes a little longer to start with a few more cranks. I've never had to push the start button twice. Once, it really seemed to struggle to start, but it did. I've had the battery/starter/alternator checked at 2 different local auto stores, and everything checks out fine.
View 7 RepliesI noticed that if i'm turning my car on for the first time in a day (12-24 hours) on a hot day (80F + ) , the compressor on the AC doesn't kick on for about 3-4 minutes. It just blows out hot air for those first few minutes. Once it kicks on and i turn the car off and then on again some time during the day the compressor kicks on right away and cold air starts to blow normally.
My RX350 pumps out cold air almost asap, and so did my accord. My AC seems to have a musty smell if it hasn't been turned on in a few days either. it goes away as soon as air starts moving. How do I get rid of this permanently?
Transmission Issue I am having with my Mk6 GTI DSG. When the car comes to a complete stop and you need to accelerate quickly to get on to incoming traffic, for example, the car takes a couple of seconds to engage. This behavior is becoming very annoying! I've been looking around about this issue. Some say that they have had a problem with the DSG Valve Body (Mechatronics Unit) and others say it might be the DSG Break Sensor. I am no expert but I would presume the Sensor Would be cheaper than the Valve Body. I would like to try and replace the sensor first and then see if I need to replace the Valve Body.
View 8 RepliesI have a Ford Explorer that my mechanic says needs a new trany. The vehicle takes a while to engage in reverse and does so with a loud clunk. Otherwise it runs good. I have 198K mi. It's an "02 4wd. Their asking $2,100 for the rebuilt trans. Wondering if it's worth it? May have reached the end of the line on this vehicle?
View 1 RepliesA140E transaxle issue... I have what I surmise is a direct clutch engagement issue. It takes (literally) 3 or MINUTES to engage reverse. And obviously the 2 -3 shift is slow also. It acts like there is a restriction in the passage to the direct piston. I rebuilt about 5 years ago, so am familiar with the teardown.
View 2 RepliesMy 1994 Subaru Legacy has been running unbelievably smoothly for the 7 years that I have had it. It has just over 160,000 miles on it, and our mechanic suggested that we change the timing belt as preventative maintenance. Since that incredible investment (worth over 50% of the car's value), I have had one problem after another. Once running, the car runs very well, but getting it started is another story. It takes several tries to start, it shakes back and forth, it makes horrible noises, and once the engine finally turns over, it is hesitant to engage the gears. The mechanic thought it may be the cam sensors, so he replaced them. That made absolutely no difference. What could be wrong with this car that was perfectly find until the timing belt was changed?
View 4 RepliesIs this normal? You can hear the air coming out.
The reason I ask if it's normal is because it seems like I have to press my brake pedal halfway down before it engages. At least an inch or two. However I can still lock up the beaks. But it seems like they are not as sensitive. Takes a bit of travel to engage.
I've already bled the brakes too.
The AC in my 2004 V6 4-matic wagon has not worked since the dealer had it in their shop last. Coincidentally, neither does the outside temp display on the dash. I tried one of those recharge kits with the cans but the pressure guage registers 90 PSI when I hook it up, more than enough according to the instructions. So it seems the system is charged and it looks like the compressor will not engage. Could the temperature problem and the AC be related? Manual says it only kicks in when the outside temp is hot enough so I figure how will it know if its hot enough if the temp probe is not working? (unless there is another probe somewhere) ...
View 7 RepliesI have a 2006 F250 Lariat super Duty / 6.0 L engine / 143000+ miles / once started and transmission shifted into drive it takes 5 seconds or more for it to engage hard or if I build up the RMS then it jumps into gear hard, after it gets going it feels like I am driving on a washboard until it get warmed up good 10 mile or so. Is it the transmission filter and if so which one, I understand there is a small one on the outside of the transmission if so where? I can't find it.
View 14 RepliesMy daughter has a 2003 Saturn Vue 2.2 and it seems that the clutch if froze up... I have checked Freon level with a gauge that I use to top of Freon and seems ok... the vehicle has 170,000 thousand miles... are these compressors prone to failure and is there a "Quick Fix" without replacing compressor, orphis tube and dryer?
View 3 RepliesSo my 2003 LS AC is not working. I had the Unit fully charged. and it started working. A few days later it stopped working. Checked Freon, and it is fully charged. I get power at the compressor but it will not engage. I ran the DATC Self test and got a 24 26 code back. What this code is? Why the ac clutch will not engage?
View 3 Repliesif the fan doesn't work, could this make the AC compressor clutch not engage? I think the fan is burned out because it doesn't spin at all, and only moves with a lot of effort. If the fan circuit is open, will this cause the Compressor to not work as well? the car is a 1991 740 GL. 2.3L engine, non turbo.
View 3 RepliesI have a problem with my AC that is driving me mad. The compressor won't always engage, especially when accelerating. I browsed the forums and came upon this link; SpringerPop's Compressor Clutch Air Gap , very useful. With the AC on, when the compressor didn't engage, I just hit the clutch plate with a wood pole and the compressor immediately turned on.
So its definitely not pressure related and as far as I know, the relay and wiring are working or else it wouldn't even turn on. It works well for a few minutes (very well) and then it just stops working. Anyway, I read the instructions on that page. The thing is... when I put the keys in ON and turn the AC on... the clutch still doesn't engage, making it impossible for me to get the plate out to get the shim out.
Model: Ford Explorer 2000 SOHC....
So clutch doesn't engage and compressor is not running. I have 12-13v at the low pressure switch and the same at the high. When I jump the low pressure I don't get any voltage at all at the plug that controls the relay for the clutch.
Where I'm confused is:
Is this a low pressure problem - gauge is reading 60psi on the accumulator
Or
Is this electrical somewhere?
I just picked up a '94 7.3 IDI Turbo, and I can't figure out what ails the AC. It appears that there should be enough refrigerant (according to my recharge kit), but the compressor clutch will not engage. I have checked the fuses, and all are fine. All other HVAC functions are normal. Is there a way to test the compressor?
View 5 RepliesI have an 02' 2.0 Jetta Wagon, and the A/C is having some issues. Since I know close to nothing about A/C systems, I took it in to a few places to have it looked at. I've had the whole system Evac'd and recharged, and have had the low pressure fitting replaced (apparently there was a slight leak there), and the system is still not working.
The A/C worked fine when I first purchased the car a few months ago. Shortly after my 800 mile trek from Oregon, back to home, the A/C started to only work intermittently. The compressor would engage, then disengage, repeat...It seemed like a bad idea to keep trying to use it in its sad state so I stopped using it altogether. As I said, I had the system emptied and recharged, but it still only works intermittently. It sort of follows a pattern where upon start up it works longer, and switches on and off at shorter intervals, until it doesn't engage at all.
There are no strange noises from the compressor, and when it was hooked up to the machine, it proved to be performing its function well.
Compressor does not engage, and my fans do not come on when I turn on the A/C. They do come on low speed when I jumper pins 1 and 2 on the temp switch plug, but they do not come on high speed when I jumper pins 2 and 3.
I have replaced the FCM with a new one, as well as a guaranteed working used one; neither one changed anything. I assumed right away that it was the fcm because my original one has a hole eaten through it from battery acid.
Compressor clutch ohms out within spec, and it will engage if jumpered.
I have a 2002 Jetta 1.8t and the A/c doesn't work. I took a look and I know that the clutch/compressor does not engage. also, the rad fans do not turn on when I have the AC on in the car. all I get is hot air. I tested the line and there is no freon in them whatsoever. which is why the compressor is off. however, I can't add any freon without it working. I checked the fuses on the side of my dash and on top of the battery as they seem to be ok. Also, I was told that I just need to replace the compressor with a new one and I should be good to go. Is this true? It will be an easy fix if it is.
View 13 Replies2004 Santa Fe (GLS 2.7L)
First off, the A/C has not worked since I bought the vehicle used. I have checked all the SMALL fuses (10-25 amp) that can be easily determined good or bad, both under the dash and under the hood, so this basically rules that out (right?). I was unsure of how to check the larger, plug-like fuses under the hood. I am about 85% sure the A/C compressor does not engage when the A/C switch is pushed (yes, the light on the A/C button inside does come on and stay on). This is because I am unsure of which pulley is the A/C compressor and where exactly it is located under the hood. My research showed that it should be the bottom-right pulley when looking at the car from the passenger side, but I could be wrong on this. The fact that I just moved to Florida from the midwest a few weeks ago makes this a rather urgent problem.
Next, after a recent oil change there has been a harsh knocking, diesel-like noise coming from the front-right (passenger) side under the hood. Further inspection seems to show that it is coming from the area of the A/C compressor (or where I'm assuming it is). Again, I'm wondering if this is related to the A/C compressor. This noise is not normal, and has only recently begun to be a problem. It happens during initial startup, can be heard during acceleration, and only seems to quiet down a bit during idling after the vehicle has been warmed up. But it is now always present.
Finally, when fueling I have noticed that filling the car prevents it from starting! I am forced to shift into neutral and rev the car while simultaneously turning the ignition. This does the job, and once the car is started, it runs fine and the problem only ever happens immediately after fueling...any thoughts from the more "mechanically-inclined" out.