Lexus IS 2014+ :: 3rd Gen LS250 Car Have No Power And Need To Be Jumped
Aug 15, 2015
I bought a 14 IS250 f sport in July of 2013, one of the first ones to hit the U.S. And ever since I took delivery every August like clock work the car would have no power and need to be jumped. Once it was jumped it was good for a year and come next August it happend again. The dealer can't seem to find anything wrong the last 2 times I brought it in. It's now back at the dealer for the 3rd time for the same thing.
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I had an android phone prior and everything worked great. Got calls, texts, and music streaming all working all the time.
Then I swapped over to an iPhone 6 and I can no longer see incoming text messages. I'll hear the alert through my car speakers but nothing comes up on the navi screen. I Googled and people said you have to unsync it, then resync it a few times to get it to work. But I haven't been successful.
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We picked a NGP IS250 AWD F-Sport yesterday and can't find a way to see traffic info on the navy screen. I can scan for traffic stations on the HD radio but nowhere do I see that option.
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I have a question regarding the park assist...
When it snows and I am at a stop sign or red light the FRONT system starts beeping...
And there are no cars in front of me
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Battery died and car (LS 460) was jumped started. Every warning light is on how do I turn them off. Car was running perfectly until battery was drained.
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I need a part number for the temp sensor for my truck. The dummies at advance have sold me the wrong one 2 times now. I used a jumper wire on the plug to make sure I didn't have a broke wire somewhere. The gauge went up when I jumped it. Went and got a new one and it still don't work
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While driving home last night my truck started to overheat, the temp jumped from where its been running at lately (around 210) to 240, I stopped and took it easy getting home. This morning I sprayed down the radiator to clean out any mud that may have gotten in it from field work at the office (its always going through some pretty deep stuff). It ran fine for about an hour then it started to over heat again, I got it home and did a complete radiator flush and then did a test drive. It still overheated so I decided to try something, I released the pressure in the system by unscrewing the cap partially and drove it around again, this time it didn't overheat, put the cap back on and the temp jumped right back up to 240.
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I went out to start my truck yesterday which is a 2004 F350 6.0 Diesel. It wouldn't crank over so of course I tried to jump start it and it fired right up. Went to town while I was there got 2 new batteries and put them in went to start truck and again nothing but will only start when jumped even with new batteries I'm guessing there is a grounding out issue. Where to start?
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I just noticed I'm getting a rattle from the power window panel on the driver door when the bass kicks in with the mark levinson system.
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I have done some searches and think I've found the relevant threads, but I want to get confirmation from people who have actually done it.
From what I've gathered, I should be able to leverage the incoming ignition power that goes to the rear view mirror, which is supposedly the blue wire. From there I can cut the power cable in my dashcam and splice it into the blue wire connection to power the dash cam?
I've heard some people also wire it through the headliner/A-piller and to the relays, but I'd rather take the shortest route.
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Eco/Normal/Sport S/S+ Mode... the literature doesnt say much except it changes throttle response and power output. For the Sport modes it says that "The rear-wheel drive IS 350 F SPORT's Sport S+ mode also tightens the suspension..." Are the shocks somehow adjustable, or is this just marketing BS?
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Got a 2006 camry. Car wouldn't start so I jumped it and it ran fine for a run or even 2 starts on its own. Now it won't start at all unless it gets jumped but the weird thing is that the lights work fine but when I try to start it nothing happens.. No noise, no nothing. Is it perhaps an alternator issue? Or maybe just needs a new battery?
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During the winter, i always noticed that when starting up the car for the first time, the rpm always jumped high for about 60sec - probably around 1100. i know is normal - just the antichoke kicking in. However, summer is almost here and today was a hot day, and when i started the car and it automatically idled at 600rpm straight away. Is this normal ? or has something happened to my autochoke?
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My 1995 Honda civic dx jumped time and won't even crank and have no clue what I got to do to fix it?
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My 04 V6 start-up RPM has jumped from about 1400 to 1900. Haven't performed any maintenance that would affect RPM at start up. MAP was cleaned with CRC product made for this procedure and a new MAP o-ring was used. Throttle body control valve is clean and shows no signs of residue build up. I have lifted the negative battery terminal for an hour with no effect. Haven't found a vacuum leak. Only thing that has changed is use of Shell gasoline. Throttle pedal was replaced last October ,but start-up RPM did not change until June of this year.
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2004 GTP. I have recently replaced the condenser, drier, compressor......
My issue is that my compressor only works when jumped. I checked the relay and 10 amp fuse located in the engine bay fuse box and both seem fine. I replaced the pressure switch and put a new pressure switch connector on it. I got it to take a full charge by jumping the compressor. It blows very cold when jumped. The outside temperature on the dash is reading correctly.
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I was running my car today and low tire pressure light jumped on. I checked the tires and they was all good. Turned the car off then tried to turn it on and the remote key fob didn't work so the car wouldn't start. I had to do it manually to start the car. I get no clock, no interior lights. On the dash it says the trunk is open when its not. Every time I restart the car it doesn't remember my dash light settings. I have Shark racing deleted harness installed with fog lights leds and I have HIDS from DDM turning with the relay installed. It did this stuff after I hand washed the car. I don't think water got in the wiring. Did my ECU blown. I just had it at the dealer and they put a new battery in the key fob and they changed the oil.
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Mechanics cannot find out why it occasionally does not start and has to be jumped off. If left not driven for a day walk out next morning try to start and it has to be jumped off. It only has 8,000 miles on it. 2013 Ford F150
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I have a 1997 Toyota Corolla that will not start unless it is jumped, but it's not as simple as that.
Once it's jumped it runs well after a few minutes to warm up. The gentleman from AAA informed me that the battery is bad and needs replacement, but when I took it to the store where I purchased it (and it is still under warranty) they informed me that they would charge it first to verify it was still working before offering a replacement. Forty-five minutes later they assured me that battery was fully charged and would hold a charge. I took it home and put it into the car and it still will not start.
But it's not as simple as that... Here's the odd thing thing. When I put the battery in, and place key in the ignition the usual check engine light, door ajar light, dome light (etc.) work. When I turn the key to start the car I hear a single click then... nothing. If I take the key out and reinsert it, the usual check engine light, door ajar light, etc do NOT work.
Stranger still. If I disconnect the battery and then reconnect it (or just wait 20 minutes) the check engine light, door ajar light, etc do work, until I try to star the car and then the single click returns and the process repeats. To add there is moderate corrosion on the battery terminals.
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I have a 2004 Nissan Quest SE. We were on a trip and drove 15 hours to Florida which was a 870 mile trip. We had 104,440 miles on the van when we left, validated by the dealer service records and our own notes to track MPG. We arrived in FL and didn't notice the odometer. The van remained parked for 4 days. Upon leaving, we noticed it had 115,310 miles on the odometer. Upon checking the trip computer (setting 1), it did not reflect this 10k mile gain. The trip computer also didn't reflect a change in MPG with the additional 10k miles. The trip computer (setting 2) hasn't been reset in a very long time as we don't use it. and continued to show a total mileage just over 4k miles, therefore, also not reflecting this 10k mile gain in the odometer.What would cause this jump of 10k miles on the odometer?
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2012 Santa Fe SE and the battery went completely, utterly dead. Reason unknown but that's not the issue for now. The battery was purchased new.
Also, I had a Viper 4204 remote starter installed after I got the car, April 2014. I use the keyfob that came with the Viper to open the doors and start the car as needed.
Trying to get a jump start but as soon as I connect the cables the alarm goes off and the car won't start. Called the place where I had the remote start put in and he suggested two things. Use the original Hyundai keyfob and press the unlock button to stop the alarm. Or put the key in the ignition turned to the ON position BEFORE connecting the cable to the battery. Tried both, neither worked. Also tried just holding down the kill switch under the hood. But that didn't work either.
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