Lexus GX 2010+ :: Vehicle Maintenance - Brake Fluid Flush?
Jan 7, 2016
I DIY most of my vehicle maintenance (oil, brakes, coolant, filters, etc.) so I figured the brake fluid wouldn't be an issue on the GX. However, while searching for the proper DIY procedure I found a number of posts that claim some Lexus models can ONLY be flushed at the dealer with Techstream.
Is this true for the GX or will the typical DIY work (pump brake and hold down, release bleeder valve to bleed fluid, close valve release brake petal and repeat)?
One thing i noticed on the GX is that the brake pedal will not presurize the lines if you pump it with the car off. That itself tells me I may be in for a surprise if I try the DIY method...
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On my 2011 Prius maintenance schedule, there is plenty of direction about inspecting brakes; however, there is no indication of when to flush and replace the brake fluid. My wife travels 60 miles/workday, but hits her brakes about 6 times/day. I would expect that normal braking would result in pad replacements more regularly than we are going to have. I did most of the 60K inspection, but took the car to a trusted, local mechanic for undercarriage inspection and a professional look-see. They indicated that the brake fluid should be replaced every 3 years, and I OK'd a flush and refill. Is there any professional guidance on the replacement interval? I know there are a lot of opinions, but I wonder if there is any published authority.
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While searching here for information on changing the brake fluid, I came across a thread that stated: You need a Lexus scan tool to bleed the brakes properly. I've bled brakes and other cars without having a scan tool. I've never bled the brakes on my 09 ES350.
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Back, I flushed when it turned opaque...
Then I bought a car engineered to last more than just a couple 100K miles and was surprised to find a lot of items in the preventive maintenance list that I never thought about.
It recommended flushing every 30K or 2 years. A bit of research showed this was also recommended by several other manufacturers. Even more common with advent of ABS.
So now I try to flush at least every 2 or 3 years.
I still have not found any recommendations from Ford or GM? Either I'm blind or (cynic stepping in) they still don't expect vehicles to last that long... Or like to sell replacement parts?
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I started back up again and 10 seconds later it came back on, but then went away for the rest of the 30-minute commute. Went out during lunch today and there's no message.
I'm gonna do a vagcom scan when i get home, but wanted to know if there's any history of brake fluid leaking and needing to be topped of.
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Wife telling the brakes went out but fluid is leaking under center of vehicle when brake is pressed. Is this just a rear brake line issue?
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I have a 2002 camry and I flushed my power steering fluid today using the following procedure:
- emptied the reservoir
- connected return hose to a bucket
- added new fluid (ATF dexron III - from toyota dealer)
- jacked front wheels
- turned steering wheel side to side till new fluid came out of return line (my reservoir did get empty couple times in the process so air may have went in)
- lowered the vehicle
- reconnected the return line to reservoir
- ran the engine and turned side to side couple times (did not see bubbling and fluid level did not drop)
I took the car for test drive and noticed that my steering wheel was still making noise when turning. Also, when i was turning the wheel side to side with hood open, I noticed a change in the sound. There was a sticking sensation and steam pressure release noise when I locked the wheel on either side.What could be the problem?
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I have a 2002 Kia Rio Cinco, (named Simple Jack) with about 150k miles on it, that I have been bringing back from the dead. I've replaced the shocks and struts, brakes, wheel hubs, wheel bearings, part of the brake line, the timing belt, motor mounts, fan, valve cover gasket (needs to be redone because my mechanic got sloppy), spark plugs & wires, windshield and wipers, and the radio. I sound proofed the interior, pulled the seats and carpet out and power washed them. I am also doing some body work on it. Normally, I am pretty good at troubleshooting the problems, but not-so-much doing the actual repairs. I tend to panic, and get paralyzed by the fear that I will break my car worse than it is.
The first was about doing a transmission fluid flush. I got the filter and the transmission fluid and while my ex-mechanic was breaking my car the last time, I asked if he could do the flush. He said he would not do it because the transmission was too old and it would break the transmission if he did it. Since the fluid looked dirty and probably had not been changed for a while, his logic was that the parts had a layer of dirt on them that would be flushed away with the fluid change. This would interfere in the operation of the transmission because the parts would no longer be able to make contact with each other.
At the time, this made sense to me. However, after some less than stellar repair attempts, I have some doubts as to the validity of his claim. So I am asking you all if this makes sense.
The second question is a problem with rattling. I had purchased the tie rod ends, front stabilizer and bushings for the suspension. I asked my mechanic to change all the parts when he did the front shocks and again I asked when he did the front wheel hubs. He said that I didn't need the crap. So my car has a weird rattling when I drive. It sounds like it comes from the top of the engine, but at speeds around 60mph, I have some vibration in the steering, too. I am concerned that something may be wrong with the steering or maybe it's just the alignment. However, I think the rattling may be independent from the vibration. I have not been able to determine the cause of this and my plan was to just keep replacing parts until it is fixed. I figured I will have a new car by the time I am done. What I can check next? Should I do the tie rod ends? The bushings? The CV joints? I know I need a new mechanic.
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What should one expect during the 10K service? Is there anything I should ask for specifically? I already got some default settings fixed during my 5K visit.
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Yesterday I got a maintenance code on the dash of my 07 ls460 and it said to check parking brake system please take vehicle to dealer.
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How to reset maintenance message in 2011 gx460?
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I have the maintenance icon staring at me because when I change the oil on my 20012 Lexus, I forgot to reset it.
I looked in the RX 350 bible manual without any luck. What's the procedure?
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I see from reading the Rx350 maintenance schedule there is a task to 'Reset Maintenance Reminder Light' Is this something a DIYr can do (simple to do on my 06 IS350) or is a PITA like on a German car..have to have a 'special tool'?
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My oil maintenance light keeps coming on at 5k miles even though oil change is suggested at10k with correct oil...
is there a way to have the reminder set at 10k its getting annoying...
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I have a 14 RX with 12,000 miles on it and want to reset the message. I'm not finding anything when doing a search here. Need to reset the message? I'll be doing my own oil changes and tire rotations since the first free dealer oil change and rotation.
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I watched a YouTube video on how to reset the maintenance message. Holding "ODO" then hitting start without foot on the brake didn't work like it did in the 2010 model year video. Something different for 2014?
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I just changed my oil 2 weeks ago and I still have this "oil maintenance required" on my dashboard. How to reset this? I've reset the all the maintenance on my NAV screen, but to no avail.
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I am out of town and did the 15K maintenance. Garage tech did not eliminate this message. I do not have my manual here. 2013 RX350 ... steps to eliminate this message...
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How do I reset the oil maintenance reqired check light after change of oil.
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I just got 2014 gx460 maint req light blaring at me what cleared it on my 2004 won't clear this one.
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I have a new 2015 Elantra GL Manual that seems to have an E-brake that does not feel like it holds the vehicle solidly. I know that the E-brake is probably a small drum brake setup in the rears only but feel like an adjustment can be made to really ratchet that lever up better?
The other issue is a humming, buzzing, vibrating sound in the front passenger side area at hwy speeds. Maybe a vibrating splash shield or rock stuck under the shield?
I was also able to get some new alloy rims for a good price (FAST brand) from the dealer (believe it or not). They aren't the sexiest things to look at but I needed another set of rims anyway to winters and the price was better than plain steelies. I'll probably use the OEM steels for winter now and alloys for summer. The alloys are a little wider at 7 inches than the OEM 6.5 inches and much lighter. I plan on getting Michelin X-Ice soon.
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