Lexus GX 2010+ :: Rear Heat Takes Longer To Get Warm
Jan 27, 2013
Im using my rear heat for the first time since I purchased my new GX premium, it seems that the rear heat takes forever to finally get warm and its really never hot even at the highest temp. I think overall I find that the gx takes awhile to start pumping out hot air compared to my RX, but I don't think its normal for the front to be blowing hot and the rear to still be cold. I already took it Lexus and they said it was all working fine.
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When I crank the engine when it's cold, it cranks fine. Case in point: first thing in the morning and in the afternoon when I'm leaving the office to come home. However, if I crank the engine when it's already warm it takes significantly longer to turn over. It really doesn't feel like it wants to crank at all and pumping the gas pedal doesn't work with things even though its second nature from my old carburetor days. The fact that it only acts up when the engine is warm befuddles me! I remember reading something like this awhile ago and the culprit was a clogged "box that dissipates gases". It's a 2003 Passat with the 1.8 turbo. The car has been maintained according to the service schedule and runs like a champ with 100,349 on the odometer.
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So.. I recently bought a VW Passat Variant 1.8T 2003 and it seems like the heating in the front seats isn't working, well it's dead on the passenger side but takes forever ( 45-55min ) on the driver seat to get warm. And it seems to be a normal problem, but how should I solve it?
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I have a 2015 IS 350 F-Sport with just under 9K miles. Occasionally, the car takes a little longer to start with a few more cranks. I've never had to push the start button twice. Once, it really seemed to struggle to start, but it did. I've had the battery/starter/alternator checked at 2 different local auto stores, and everything checks out fine.
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It seems like it takes an awfully long time for the good mileage to get going from a cold start - even when it's warm outside. The last 5 miles of my commute are great, but the first 10 miles not so much. How much effect does ambient air temperature have on this process.
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So last couple days over the 4th, the heat was over 95.
AC Blowing out of the vent is cold but the rear seats passenger feels warm.
Even with the blower on the higher and temp on the lowest 65 (or lowest setting).
I put my hand towards the rear seat and I feel warm air. Near the vents are cool but its like the AC can't keep up with the heat ?
2010 @ 51k ... 450h ...
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I recently bought the car in to have the transmission fluid and spark plugs changed; it was in the garage for almost 2 weeks as I wasn't able to go in and pick it up. It was a local but trusted garage, not a dealer. Since I've had it back, when I power up the car, the ICE takes a noticeably longer time to switch on. It used to come on before I'd put it into gear, not it doesn't come on until I get into P or R, or at least just before sometimes. I suspect is has something to do with the 12v battery, which I've had no noticeable problems with yet.
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We've just had our first few autumn days where a heavy dew settles on the car when the temperature drops in the evenings. When I left the restaurant last night, the moisture was so thick on the outside of the glass I couldn't see out the rear window. I turned on the rear defogger and it was soooo slow. It took five minutes before you could start to see the wire lines in the glass appear and 20 minutes to clear. None of my other Lexus' have been this slow to clear the rear window.
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My GX and I are in the south and I sometimes have to leave it parked outside all day in 100F+ temperatures during the summer. Needless to say it gets extremely hot inside and sometimes takes a while to cool down. I started using my rear AC on full in conjunction with my main AC to facilitate cooling off the interior of the vehicle. I do this even when I'm by myself because... if I'm not mistaken... the rear AC uses a completely separate unit including a separate compressor. So it seems that it would cool things down faster running both systems. Can verify that the rear unit is completely independent of the main AC system?
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My car had some minor front end damage repaired by a body shop. Since I got it back the a/c takes longer to start blowing cold air. If I drive it daily the a/c starts up normally. But if the car sits for a few days, it may take anywhere from 3-5 minutes before it blows cold. I've taken it back to the body shop who has in turn taken it to a dealer and nothing was found.
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Alright 2009 Corolla S 1.8L. 80k miles, 5 years old.
I just decided to start doing the service myself on my gf's Corolla. Switched to Mobil 1 0w20. Did oil and filter. Also, the battery had a lot of corrosion on the positive terminal so my dad unexpectedly poured a little coke on it and wiped it down.
That was two weeks ago. The car has started to take longer and longer to start. Like the battery is going dead. Did the switch to synthetic or coke on battery terminal make any changes to starting or is it just a really big coincidence. Oil level still good.
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The backup camera under the vw logo staying open. Mine takes at least 10 seconds to close, and if I don't wait and turn off the car, it will remain open which prevent you from opening the hatch. It's become extremely annoying, especially Christmas shopping in the rain!!
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I got the 2013 sonata gls, 5700 kms.
I live in southern Ontario, in Canada and the weather is starting to drop here in the mornings and nights.
The mornings are not 0-3 degrees Celsius and at night a little bit colder.
I have notice that when I start my car in the morning it seems like the engine takes a little big longer to start. It takes no longer than 2 seconds to actually start, it just sounds like its struggling a bit more.
I notice once i drive the car for a bit, park and then start the car again it seems like it fires up quicker and without ease.
Is this due to the drop in weather? or something else at play here.
Also it seems like in the mornings when the car has been sitting for like 9 hours, after it starts the engine sounds louder than usual.
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2012 Golf GTI, bone stock, 18k miles. The issue is pretty straightforward. It takes longer to crank than I feel it should, perhaps 5-6 seconds, sometimes the car is cold, sometimes warm. Sometimes it cranks right up with no issue. A VCDS scan is clean. This is Atlanta weather too, so the temps are pretty mild.
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My grandfather recently died, and left me his 1999 Ford Windstar. He's had it since it was brand new, and as of today it has 249k miles on it...
It hadn't been driven for about a year since he was sick for quite a while. I took it for a 30 mile drive to see what kind of condition it was in. Once I jump started it, the CEL was on. Things I noticed while driving on the city streets:
- Van takes longer than normal to accelerate
- Really loud - I'm wondering if something is up with the muffler
Once I hopped on the highway and hit speeds in excess of 65 MPH, the "O/D OFF" light began flashing. The van wasn't driving any differently than before - at least I didn't notice anything. After another 5 or so minutes, the CEL began flashing. Again, the van wasn't driving any differently than before.
The one thing that was prevalent at this high speed also, was how long it took to accelerate. I really had to floor it to get it to go from 60 to 70. I took it to the auto zone by my house (which was the plan all along) and pulled the following codes from it:
-P0171
-P0443
-P1401
I wasn't able to get a read on the Tranny codes since they didn't have a scanner for that. Where should I start? Here's what I know so far:
-As for the 0171 code, respectable people on this forum say it most likely is due to a Vacuum leak. Any places in particular I should look?
-The 1401 code seems to point to either a bad DPFE Sensor and/or Carbon buildup in the EGR sensor/valve.
-Don't know anything about the 0443 code.
-I didn't get any codes relating to the misfiring that took place on the highway. Not really sure what that means.
I do a big DIY when it comes to doing work on my vehicles. A good tutorial and pics/videos and I'm off to the races. I plan on doing a lot of the work myself, unless it will start to require specialty tools and the like.
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Occasionally my 2003 f150 takes longer to start than Id like. Lets say 2-3 seconds before it fires. It turns over plenty fast so Its not a battery crapping out. Runs great once it lights. I replaced the spark plugs but that didn't change it. Once again this just happens every now and then. 120k on the clock. Should I suspect a fuel pump showing its age? Oh, I should also note I changed the fuel filter a few months back.
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OK so I know that my rear suspension no longer operates the way it should...with 230K miles and owned since 03....time has taken its toll. So I was wondering if any parts list to repair the rear air suspension so that I can take it directly to my toyota dealer to install. I can tell that the air suspension is trashed simply because I would normally hear the car lower when I parked in the garage etc...now it doesn't do anything.
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I took my 2003 GX470 for service (not a Lexus dealer), which included rear brake pads. After picking up my car, I realized there was a serious malfunction with the rear air suspension, and my "car height" was no longer working. I took it back to the mechanic immediately - he stated that the rear air bag deflated when they put it up on the lift (which is normal). However, they couldn't get it to inflate again, so had to order a new one. I'm wondering if this is the mechanic's problem or mine (the car has 101,000 miles on it).
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Took the car to the dealer, said "just turn off the beeps, all of them." The rep. said come back in an hour. Most of the beeps are off now, but I have an odd pair of problems.
1.) The rear hatch no longer beeps when open, but it also has no longer has the SKS function.
2.) The front seat belts no longer beep, but the front dome light no longer has an on-when-door-is-open function.
3) I'm waiting to see what bizarre side effects come from the single reverse beep.
The rep. says these are side effects from killing the beeps, that the nuisance beeps are tied to these two functions and that the only way to restore them is to bring back the beeps. He claims that the front beeps & dome light are triggered by a sensor inside the door that is part of the door latch, that when this sensor is disabled all its functions stop. I think he said it's the same problem with the rear hatch and its SKS.
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I just got an 03 6.0 and a few days ago it developed a rough idle, it takes a little longer to crank and idles fine for 30 seconds to a minute then the rough idle kicks in also I noticed when I drive it the low rpm range is a little choppy and when I come to a stop it goes a little below idle then resumes the rough idle issue. I had it die on the road a day prior to this after it lost complete power at a red light, it started to idle low so I tried to counteract with a little throttle and with the throttle all the way it did nothing, a few minutes it died on the road and took a few minutes to start back up I did a set of filters and it hasn't done it again but I still have the rough idle, I checked the icp sensor and wiring no oil so I cleaned it up a bit and it runs a little smoother.
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I have a 2013 F250 with a 6.2L gas motor, 50k miles.
Recently, I've noticed it takes longer to start. The motor will crank at regular speed but will take longer to start. It's always taken longer than a single rotation from day one but lately it's gotten really bad.
Even more recently, I hear a ticking noise under load, or even sometimes at idle. It sounds like an exhaust leak or worn lifter noise. Could these somehow be connected? What this could be?
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