Lexus GX 2010+ :: Power Loss / Shut Down - Dead Gas Pedal
May 7, 2013
While driving to work this morning driving about 25 MPH and increasing speed gradually in traffic the lane I was traveling came to a sudden stop, I slammed on the brakes, ABS took over and I steered around the stopped lane of traffic with no issue. Here comes the problem, I never stopped rolling and traffic was coming up behind me in the lane that I just went in to and I stepped on the gas pedal and got nothing, truck was running, no lights or warnings just a dead gas pedal. This only lasted maybe 5 seconds and then it went but it was totally dead no matter how hard I stepped on the gas and vehicles were beeping at me from behind me. It finally went (5 seconds seems awful long when cars are approaching fast from behind) and it drove fine from there on. I guess I plan on trying to recreate this issue but thought maybe there is something with these trucks that caused this that I don't know about?
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Having issues with a 2014 shutting down. Was at a stop light the other day and car completely lost power and shut down. When this happened oil, engine, and battery light came on. Once I parked car and turned off, it restarted. The dealership acted like I had no idea what I was talking about and would like to have some information when I take it back to have this problem corrected the car is not even 2 years old and has 30,000 miles on it.
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What the problem is with my 94 Saturn Sl2? It seems to loose power going up hill. Also I have put in a new alternator and battery, because the battery would go dead after driving for a while. ABS light remains on as well. Also have pinging noise coming from below the emergency brake area, after I have driven it for a little while. Even if it sits idling at times, it will drag down the battery or something, because it will kill and go dead. Could there be a short somewhere?
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3.0 ENGINE - For a year now I could not figure out what was wrong with my van. It has a loss of power low end but seems to run OK at higher speeds. I changed the plugs, wires, cap etc, fuel filter and no difference. I finally broke down and took it to Firestoneto diagnose it. The guy told me #5 plug was foul and had oil on in, said it is possibly the rings. They did not charge me but they also did not do a thorough check either. They did not check the compression in the cylinder or other spark plugs.
Spoke to a guy at the auto part store and asked what I could do. He said change the oil and add a can of restore. Also said to put a anti foul adapter in first and then the new plug, the adapter would keep the oil from fouling the new plug.
I got the oil change and added the restor. Drove it for a while and took the plug out myself, its the 2nd one in on the drivers side. The plug was nasty looking. Put the new plug in and started it up. I can see that there is spark going to the new plug but putting the wire on and off made no difference in how the engine ran, like the cylinder was dead. I took the plug out of the adapter and put it back in, still nothing, I took the plug back out and there was no oil or smell of gas. Fuel injector not working? You would think there would be some combustion with the new plug.
A year ago the problem started where the van would run great one day then crappy the next. Sometimes it would run a few days great(like new) then a few days crappy. After a month or so it just ran crappy and basically has ran the same for a year now. I notice the A/C puts a load on the engine and the A/C clutch will click on and off every few second when the van is in gear but not when the van is in park or neutral. A/C is not low and works fine when driving, very cold. I normally turn the A/C off during take off because it takes off much slower with the A/C running.
The van shows some white smoke when I rev it up real good when I first start it but it does not show any smoke when idle and while driving.
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Not sure, it doesn't seem to me the dreaded fuel pump problem. Was driving on highway pulling my 5th wheel after going though the toll both it never went out of 3rd gear and motor started taping pretty bad, turned tow haul off and it shifted up. All along never seemed to lose power, as I was looking to pulled off high way and into A park in lot it started losing power then just shut off. All along this 2min ordeal the motor was knocking/taping. Seems to me like the motor blew.
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I have a 2001 F350 7.3 the truck will at random times loose power and almost shut down. A while back I had an issue with the uvch plugs and changed that out. Truck ran fine till I got some dirty fuel from a diesel tank at my friends farm. I did the hutch mod cleaned the tank and now have a frame mounted screw on filter before the pump. I cleaned the fuel bowl and changed the filter. Fuel pressure stays at 59psi and drops to 56psi wot. The truck is tuned with an edge programmer. After these mods the truck ran awesome for over 2000 miles. Now it has the above stated problem. I have fuel and hpop guages along with egt and boost. During the problem egts will increase rapidly and it seems like it is starving for fuel.
Hpop gauge reads 3300psi or above during wot and shows good pressure during these mishaps. I have auto Enginuity and I get a different reading at wot of only 2600 psi. The hpop gauge is tapped into the icp sensor per instructions and has been installed this way for a while with no issues. The tune has been on the truck for over 40000 miles. The only thing that I can come up with is it will occasionally throw a p1211 under wot or pulling my Gooseneck Dump Trailer when loaded. However it acts up sometimes and doesn't throw the code. Sometimes you can shut it off and start it back up and it's fine other times it will last for the whole day. My only guess is low pressure from the hpop but I don't reflect this from my gauge only on AE at wot. Wouldn't a bad pump act up all the time? Am I correct to think it is just the ipr?
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I have an IS 350 but I am trying to get the part number for the dead pedal for the 2014 + GS F sport. I tried calling my local lexus dealer (which is 50 miles away) and they won't give me the part number over the phone w/o a vin number. Now if someone can ask their parts deptn for a vin number, it can be provided.
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Is there one thing that when broken makes both the steering and brakes lose all power? Does the power steering and hydroboost share a pressure source?
My brake pedal is dead and I get no steering boost, but the master cylinder and PSP are full of fluid. Do I replace both, or replace one first to see if that fixes both? Or could it just be a hose leaking? Not sure how to diagnose this one.
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My Hyundai Avante (2011 model 1.6) suddenly loses acceleration while my foot is still pressing on the gas pedal. Every time that happens I have to raise my foot from the gas pedal and press it again to make the car accelerate. This thing happens randomly, but mostly at speed lower than 80 Km/h
I tested the car on an empty road once; I didn't raise my foot from the gas pedal this time when the car lost acceleration. The car speed dropped to zero and the RPM gauge returned to idle (i.e. around 1000 RPM).
The check engine never light up during or even after this thing occurs. Here is the list of things the mechanic tried on my car:
1-Cleaned the body throttle
2- Tested the car with another used body throttle
2- Tested the car with another used gas pedal
3-Check the fuel pressure and injection
4- Checked the sparks
5- Tested the car onboard computer.
None of the above worked!!! Here is the strange thing my mechanic discovered, if he unplugs the cable of the Anti-lock braking system in the car. The problem never occurs.
I have been driving the car for two weeks, with the ABS system unplugged. The loss of acceleration problem never happens. I am not sure what the ABS has got to do with the car acceleration.
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So what I might have thought to be a transmission lag may be actually a dead zone in the pedal. When pressing the pedal from dead stop nothing happens until you press the pedal down further. Any way to reduce that or eliminate?
I'm referring to NA 2.5L engine with auto trans.
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Recently I have been experiencing dead pedal every now and again, but it eventually comes back. Its happened on the interstate a couple of times and that can get pretty dangerous. Now I am having issues with a no start condition out of no where. It will eventually crank but it churns and churns for a VERY long time, like 15- 30 mins before it will fire again. This has happened twice now. Here are the codes I pulled from Torque:
P0263
P0281
P0299
P0528
Where this is all coming from? I thought at first bad TPS on the adjustable pedals, but now with the no start condition, could it be fuel pump related? Yesterday I was at the dump and it was idling, then got real erratic and shut down. Then wouldn't start for 20 minutes.
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Ok, so I have my VR6, and I have a 2.0T as well. My 2.0T feels MUCH faster than my VR6, and I don't think it's normal. What's happening is when I put the gas pedal to the floor, the car almost acts like it wants to die, the RPM's go all the way down, and there is complete power loss for a few seconds. Then all of a sudden, all the power is there at once. Weird, right? For some reason I keep thinking it's related to the transmission. It almost feels like the car has no idea what gear to be in and doesn't know to downshift or something.
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Had 3 separate episodes dead pedal on my 04 bone stock 6.0. About a week ago I pulled out on the road and the truck went to idle and would not respond no matter how much throttle I gave. After about 10 seconds it woke up and took off. Had this happen 2 more times this afternoon.
No codes or dash lights.... What this might be? I have a 500 mile road trip this weekend and am worried about being stranded on the side of the road.
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I am pretty sure my pedal is going.. Today and last month it would just die from a dead stop push the pedal and no go, but truck idling fine. I cleaned it off a few weeks ago but now its back. push pedal in and out a few times and all is fine for a few weeks. Truck runs fine other than that. Does not throw a code, just trans light comes on because no movement I think, then it goes off as soon as i start to move along. I have a adjustable pedal assembly 2c3z-9f836-de 508.45 at white bear lake ford.
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Took my 850 Turbo out on the freeway today, and when I put the pedal to the floor on the onramp there was a very disconcerting loss of power just as the turbo was really kicking in. No issue under mild to medium boost, but when pushed hard there is a short loss of power/hesitation, almost like a backfire, then boosts again, then the same power loss until I back off on the gas. Cannot get full boost without this happening.
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Does the 2015 F350 have the dead pedal on the left drivers side? The one they used to put in to rest your foot on?
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I've been noticing severe power loss lately . I know the 12 camry i4 has a bit of lag when acceleration but it's a bit worse now . I do have weapon r header , injen intake and magna flow muffler. I've cleaned the intake filter but sometimes the car feels as though it doesn't want to go then it does. I have to push the pedal down hard . I also have res delete.
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Ever since I took my 18" wheels off for the winter and put the stock VW 16's with snow tires I have on multiple occasions almost rear ended the car in front of me when I experienced what seemed like a loss of brake pressure. The brake pedal did not feel spongy or anything but often in this situation the abs brakes seem to kick in for no reason. I feel a slight pulsation in the brake pedal which I can only assume is an activation of abs. I'm wondering if this slight pulsation (1 second duration ) is causing my brakes to be less effective. The pavement has been completely dry and I was not traveling fast enough, nor pressing the brakes hard enough to cause the tires to lock and trip the abs.
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This first occurred about 2 weeks ago, I had a complete loss of power when stepping on the gas pedal. The engine did not rev or anything, completely unresponsive and the car was just gliding. I've had loss of battery power in the past where the engine was still going, just straining hard, but this was not like it as now the engine was completely not responding either.
I can't recall if it was going up or downhill -- it was around time the incline changed in a freeway ramp that began up and then moves down. At first I thought it was me accidentally putting it on neutral as I have a habit of resting my hand on the shift knob, but putting it in/out of drive did not work initially but after the 2nd try everything was back to normal so I thought nothing of it afterwards.
But if happened again this morning, again on a hill transition, either right before the top of a hill or right as I was coming down it. This time I know I did not have my hand on the shift knob. It resolved itself about the same, I had to shift in/out of drive a few times and it worked fine again a few seconds later.
I've been good with maintenance and changing out everything that they recommended, and also did the IMA battery recall upgrade.
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My Mom purchased a new 2011 Lexus RX350 last spring. The dealer installed a remote starter at the time of purchase (we live in Alaska). We've had a continuing problem with the battery going dead if the car has not been driven for a period of time (like 4 days). When she does drive it, it is for short trips (3 miles round trip to work). The original battery was replaced in fall with a heavy duty one, but the problem continues. Its been to the Lexus dealer (130 miles away) several times, but they claim everything is within the tolerances and "there is no problem".
They did note that the remote starter was drawing more than it was suppose to and reinstalled it. Their finding was that she was not driving it enough and recommended a battery tender, which has been installed. That works as long as she plugs it in daily. However, if a plug in is not available (like at the airport, hospital or if she is visiting) the battery goes dead after 4 days (even after it has been driven 100 miles).
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My wife's 2010 RX350 wouldn't start this morning. My guess is that the battery drained overnight with the back door ajar. After getting it started with a battery jump the rear hatch would not open by hand, the dash button or the key button. After driving and charging the battery the hatch would open. I'd this to be expected or an indication that perhaps the hatch has a fault?
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