Lexus GX 2010+ :: Outer Ring Is In KM And The Inner Ring Is In MPH
Feb 4, 2016
I bought my wife a 2011 GX460 from Lexus. On my way home i realized the car was in KM not MPH. The outer ring is in KM and the inner ring is in MPH. The dealer thought they were going to be able to change but turns out they can't. I'm at a crossroads, what do i do. They offered to try and find a new car or i keep the car and we work out a deal of some sort. If i keep the car will i run into other issues with it being from Canada. So, what makes a 2011 GX460 from Canada different then one from the US ?
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Happening to all 3 cars. All 2012
2- Passat Se 2.5L 60k/40k miles
1- Jetta TDI 65k miles
Shown driver rear rotor on Passat ( was cleaning Abs speed sensor ring)
Started about 35k miles on each car as a small ring creeping from the outer edge. Backside has maybe 1/4-1/2" clean braking surface.
Slide pins moove free and smooth
Pads were not seized
Caliper isnt seized
Notice the different ridges on the inner pad.
Obviously I want to replace the pads and rotors but before I do. I want to figure out the source for this disease so keep from prematurely replacing them in the future.
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What is the difference between inner and outter tie rods?
When I look them up online they look the same.
What/which one is the inner, and what/which one is the outter?
On my truck, the part from the lower ball joint which I thought was the tie rod has a male part adapting to a bar on both sides.
It's a 1997 7.3L lifted F250.
any heads up on the difference between inner and outer tie rods on my rig.
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My car is in the shop and has a leak at the Power Steering Pump. The rubber O-ring on the Power Steering Pump Solenoid Valve (p/n 4417030120) is leaking fluid. The Solenoid Valve is ok, just the Rubber O-ring is bad, but it looks like you have to buy a complete new Solenoid Valve to get the O-ring (a lotta bucks).
I did find a Lexus Power Steering Pump rebuild kit online at, but I can't see if it includes the solenoid valve o-ring or not. Have to replace their solenoid valve o-ring?
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The light that indicates the HVAC position (floor, dash, defrost, etc) is out in my car. It's the light in the "ring" that turns.Is this replaceable? I searched, but figuring out right search term is the hard part i guess.
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I have been reading the forums and am quite curious at to the placement of the small O-Ring on the shaft of the filter. It has been said to remove it even though the filter has a dedicated groove for it. That goes against logic as I would think the shaft should seal to allow proper flow through the filter. I would think without the O-Ring flow could not be controlled. Also I have never seen such a dedicated way to ship a loose part. All pictures of the filter show the O-Ring in place on the shaft. It seems to me when I changed my oil I removed the original filter small O-Ring and used it to replace the drain plug O-Ring.
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My abs light is coming on and off. It turns out the ABS ring on the right hand side has some damage on some of the teeth. Is it possible to just replace the ring? and how hard of a job is it? I tried searching and could not find anything on this part.
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I have a 3SFE 1997 engine. I've installed a Toga HV oil pump. My engine also has an oil cooler. But when I turn on the engine and accelerate it oil starts shooting out of the oil filter. When I remove the filter it has blown out the filters O-ring. I use 5W-30 since I've rolled it of the show room. What can it be?
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Well, I bought a 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 pickkup. It has 121,000 miles. The guy wanted $2800, but I talked him down to $2300. I think that will work out well. One question, though. One of the tires has a white ring going around the sidewall. I have heard of whitewall tires, but this is not an attractive white wall. The edges of the white are all jagged and peeling. What causes this? Was this tire originally black and the black peeled away exposing a psuedo-whitewall? Any time I've scraped a tire, there was just more black underneath. I don't really know what I'm looking at. Is this tire safe? You can see a pic here: [URL] ....
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My wife has a Sierra 1500 2WD 6cyl that is doing the low speed ABS pulsing. I read this forum and performed the sensor cleaning as described in the TSB from GM. The problem did not go away, so I pulled the ABS fuse for now. When I was cleaning the sensors - which were covered with crap - I noticed a lot of grease between the lobes on the reluctor ring in the hub. I cleaned it as best I could, but I could not get all of it. My question is - should there be any grease visible on that ring at all? If not, then do I need to replace the hubs? If some grease is ok, then I guess I will do a voltage check on each sensor, but I don't want to change the sensors if they are just going to get dirty again. The problem is on both sides.
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I recently got a Wolfsburg Tiguan with the RCD-510. When there's an incoming call, the ring is ridiculously loud, yet I still need to raise the call volume to hear the person on the line.
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What size Ring Gear Diameter I have, 9.75" or 10.5"? Probably going to a 4:10 to get some power back after lifting my truck.
Current Axle Ratio: 3:55 LS
Bolt Count: 12
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replacement of a rear tone ring on 06 mercury mountaineer V/6 . I have a tooth knocked off of my left rear . Just wanted to know if there was any special procedure or tricks to it like heating up the old ring or something to remove it or just soak it with P.B Blaster or something similar and tapping it like a bearing race ?
Never did this or have never seen it being done before and rather ask the questions 1st Had the dealer to quote me 500.00 for a new axle and labor said they are impossible to get off or on they most times split ? Old gear head pre-computer car days
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I'm replacing my rear diff cover and didn't realize there are multiple sizes. How do I figure out what the size is of my ring gear?
2001 F150 XLT 4x4 SuperCrew, 5.4L
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I noticed a drip on the remote oil filter adapter connecting block, it was appearing from the seam between the block with the supply and return lines to the oil filter and the engine adapter. I purchased a gasket set and replaced the two O rings, the old ones were hard and flat. The new ones are soft and round, I thought that would stop the seep, but there was no change. So after removing a few more times and cleaning, even substituting a slightly different size O ring with no change in the drip. The two aluminum blocks are held together by a 13 mm bolt. It is a 1992 S-10 Blazer 4WD 4.3L. None of the crimps are leaking.
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i have a car with a busted out steering column (drunk PO lost the key and tried to screw driver the ignition to get the steering to turn so he can move the car). i ordered a new key by vin and i managed to find the tumbler casing(damaged) but all the tumblers (still in good shape). i have installed another column in the car now and i pulled the lock cylinder assembly with the immo induction ring out. id like to take the tumbler casing out of the induction ring and put in my old tumblers.
how do you remove the immobilizer induction ring from lock cylinder?
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Ive had both the piston rings and head gasket replaced on my 96 civic. This isn't for high end upgrades or anything just because i need to pass smog and both needed replaced. I am being told that once i get my car i should drive slow for 100 miles before i take it to smog. Ive read many different opinions on seating the rings but all are for people upgrading their car. I am sure I just got normal replacements.
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on how to replace cracked ABS tone ring on the rear wheel of '05 Escape. I've looked everywhere on Youtube but nothing comes up. Many front wheel vids, but no rear wheel vids!
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I'm sure there is something on this somewhere but can't seem to find. Getting ready to change injector o rings and see where people say to drive it 200 miles to get it running right again. Well, I am in the process of a conversion and have no tags or insurance on the truck. Trying to fix issues before I spend that money on it because don't know how much I am going to have to put in it to fix the issue's.
Is there a way to bleed out the air so I don't have to drive it 200 miles? Also, how long will it smoke after the injector change to see if it is actually fixed? I know I should probably see a big difference is ICP,IPR and such. Already know it has leaks in the turbo up pipes which will have to be dealt with too.
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I have a 1999 7.3 psd F-450. It's rigged out for welding with a Lincoln SA-200 engine driven welder. My overall weight is approx. 11,500 lbs. and I rarely tow with it. It has a 4 speed automatic and 4.89 ratio gears in it now. I bought it with 245/70/19.5 tires. Stock size is 225/70/19.5. I am going broke trying to keep the fuel light from staying on all the time, and I am considering changing the gear ratio. My questions are; Is this a wise investment, as far as cost vs. gain? I also need to know if it may create a higher risk of other mechanical failures? I need to research what other ring and pinion ratios can be used in the ford 10.5 12 bolt rear axle. Money is hard to come by these days, and even harder to keep. I cannot afford a costly mistake if the funds can be more effective elsewhere.
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I installed a BPD EGR cooler about 4 years ago just as a preventative measure (along with an oil cooler) in my '06 F-250 6.0. About 6 months ago some coolant was found to be coming down the rear of the engine and onto the garage floor but only in the mornings after cooling down and even then not every morning.
A couple weeks ago I did a coolant flush and put the red ELC coolant in and now I can see better where the coolant is coming from. It appears to be coming out from the O-ring between the cooler and the intake manifold. I did check the torque on the stud and bolt and they are tight.
Is there a way the drop the cooler enough to install a new O-ring with out going through the whole process of removing the intake manifold and everything that is associated with that? The thought is daunting...
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