Lexus GX 2010+ :: Going Downhill - When Step On Brake To Slow Down RPM Jumps From 2000 To 4000
Feb 1, 2013
There is a mile of downhill on my way to work every day. I oberseved that when I step on the brake to slow down, the RPM jumps from 2000 to 4000 all of a sudden and stay there for a few second. Without my foot on the brake, the tachometer stays around 2000 rpm. Is it normal? Why does the engine do this?
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I have a 2012 Hyundai Elantra and have noticed that my cruise control doesn't slow me down when I am going downhill, is this normal?
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I was driving around town and I kept noticing my aftermarket radio would shut down and turn back on when I put my foot to the floor, then I noticed that my voltage gauge would shoot to the H when I hit around 3000 rpm and all the dash light's and head lights get brighter but once I let off the throttle it goes right back down. I've been taking it easy lately and now around 4000 rpm it will shoot up now. But I just replaced the voltage regulator I checked the battery and cables they don't seem to be damaged and I already replaced the belt. What could cause this?
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2000 Mercedes A-class, currently 190 Km, purchased 7 years ago with 90Km, all maintenance on time, as recommended.
If the car sits a day, no problem. If it sits a few days, then when releasing the brake and trying to move, the car lurches a bit. The longer it sits, the worse it seems.
Is this the back drums, as the dealer tells us, or is something else wrong?
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About 9/10 times when I step on my brake pedal (speed has not made a difference) I can hear and feel a hard knock under my car by my resting left foot. Started a few weeks ago. Haven't had work done to my brakes since May 2015 so I am thinking it is unrelated. What the issue might be?
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Tires have less than 10,000 miles on them, and air pressure is within 2 lbs left to right side.
New calipers.
New soft lines.
New hard lines.
New pads.
New rotors.
New ball joints.
New tie rod ends and center link.
New front axle universals.
Brake fluid and all other parts are less than 6 months old. I can let go of the wheel and the truck tracks straight, 10mph to 100 mph. Whether I am going 10 mph, or 100 mph, when i first step on the brakes the truck jumps right. Needless to say, the faster i am going, the worse it jumps.
After first brake application, truck tracks straight. Let go of the wheel and it tracks straight from 100mph to a dead stop with brakes applied after the initial jump. Whether I am hard on the brakes or gentle, it does not pull at all. Only on the initial step on the brakes.I am at a loss as to what the heck is wrong with it.
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I Locked Differentials and put DAC on, but still car was Skidding while going downhill . Do I have to select any other options that will work with this skidding issue?
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I have no speed control going downhill with CC at all. Dealer says this is normal. I've had two other Lexus GS models and when going downhill they would downshift and use the engine to maintain a constant speed. My Mercedes does the same thing when going downhill it downshifts to maintain a relatively constant speed. Is this normal with the RX? if so, what a disappointment.
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I have 2011 RX AWD and noticed when driving downhill and braking, car will shake. It feels like the wheels are shaking but the steering wheel does not. Is it rotors or something else?
Also RX is certified pre owned warranty for another 30k miles and I want to do alignment on it but not sure if warranty will cover that ?
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I purchased a set of new LTX MS2 tires back in October and a week ago a got a nail on the right front tire, specifically the side wall so they couldn't fix it so they replaced the tire with a new one. Now when I step on the brakes at 60 mph, the steering wheel vibrates. Can the new tire be causing that? I looked at the weights and one set of weights is taped kind of crooked, can the balancing cause it too?
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We have a 2005 Toyota Corolla whose brakes have been a problem since we bought the car four years ago. Every time our mechanic changes the brakes they squeak. They do not squeak for the entire time you hold the brakes, nor do they squeak when you slam the brakes.
They squeak once when you step on the brakes to come to a slow stop. This go around with the brake replacement, our mechanic has put two sets of new pads and shoes on. The first were the ceramic kind, this next one is the Toyota brand, the highest quality. Why the brakes are still squeaking.
First question, is this dangerous? The second question is, what the heck is going on? We have been back to him so many times.
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I have an electrical problem with the rear brake lights on my 03 Camry. The fuse keeps blowing the instant I step on the brake. I replace it and it blows immediately. So now i can't drive it because I have no brake lights. I'm thinking there is a short somewhere, where to start my troubleshooting?
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Well after another visit at a local track, I am having a wired problem with my brakes. After a couple of aggressive slow downs the car developed a violent vibration and a steering wheel shake. Also vibration during 60 mph and vibration in the brake pedal. So, i thought, I overheated and warped the rotors. But after a short drive through town. The problem disappeared completely. I thought "lucky me", but as soon as i got on to a HWY, the problem returned for about 20 miles. It got so bad that i thought my wheels would fall off. The car would be almost jumping at the touch of a brake pedal. Then it went away again, and drove fine for the next 60 mi. Just before the problem started I had Centre dif locked, on somewhat slippery surface, driving fast and braking hard, not sure if this somehow could have contributed to the problem. Could it be a stuck piston in the caliper?
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Temperature outside (weather data): 55F. Temperature gauge in prius: 57F. It felt more like 70F. It's a 2010 Prius III model that is 6 months old and has about 3942 miles and is driven VERY carefully.
I start the Prius and when the ICE engages to warm up. There's LOUD intense engine knock. I immediately turn the power off. After a couple of seconds, I start it again....the ICE engages again and then starts knocking rapidly (it is definitely knocking) and after 10 seconds. It goes back to normal. It was so intense that it may have damaged other components or the engine block itself.
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I just put new disc and pads on my girlfriend 2007 elentra and all four little screws broke off the hold the disc so you can work on it but they aren't important apparently.
Heres the problem now the pedal jumps like i have super warped discs on the car doesn't shake or vibrate while driving but then i brake the pedal jumps up and down.
I figured it might have a stuck caliper pin, which I did so I cleaned and lubed them and I have the same problem?
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I bought a 6,000 mile RX back in december and notice the vibration at slow acceleration.
It sounds like it's coming from the rear of the vehicle. It stops when it gets up to speed. I looked for anything lose and don't notice anything underneath.
I'm not too impressed with my local dealer so far to have them look at it. It sounds as if something is loose inside the muffler. It does not vibrate upon rapid acceleration.
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The throttle response from a standstill seems VERY slow. When I push down the accelerator, it seems to go down a good 3-4 inches before I meet any significant resistance, and even then, I can do a good 2 second count before the engine seems to engage. If I am stopped at a light, and I slightly blip the accelerator, then push the pedal down, it does better. But if I am stopped and floor the gas pedal, nothing happens....at ALL...for at least 2 seconds. It is slightly better when in manual, but the issue is enough for even my wife to comment that it takes off very slowly when you first give it gas.
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i got a screw in my tire with a slow leak. is this covered under warranty or should i have it done locally ?
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I've got a misfire problem with my Focus. It started about a month ago and did not trip a code until last week. It stumbles on acceleration between 2,000 and 4,000 rpms. It is only a slight stumble and although noticeable, it does not impede driveability much. Last week I was able to get it to finally trip an OBD code. P302 - Cylinder 2 misfire. I changed the plugs and wires with no effect. I thought I had it narrowed down to the coil or injector until my wife noticed a new wrinkle.
Under normal driving conditions the misfire is annoying, but my wife found that if she turns on the A/C, it is undriveable and will not accelerate past 30 mph without some patience and a neck brace for the bucking. My first thought was the A/C compressor was freezing up. I turned off the A/C and left the blower on and it would not stop missing. I turn off the blower and it smooths right out to the annoyance I described first.
Right now I drive the car without A/C and blower whenever I accelerate. If I'm going a steady speed, all is well and I can run the blower and A/C.
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I recently installed an aftermarket rear spoiler with third light. While searching and testing for a hot brake wire to hook up to, I somehow accidentally shorted out the brake lights. They will not come on when i step on the brake pedal.
I checked the corresponding fuse and it is still intact. The brake light symbol on the dash is "on" so I know the "brake light out" sensor is still working....is there something im missing in getting the brake lights to work again ?
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So I'm driving my 2002 dodge neon, just over 80k miles on it and I step on the brake and it kinda shudders noisily. It just started recently, and there wasn't any major shifts in temperature at the time. Today, i step on the brake and it shudders to a complete stop. everythings still running but it won't go. I turn it off and on again and its shuddery but I get to where i was wanting to go. I head back to my hotel and it worked perfectly, well there was a slight shudder on the way out of the parking lot but I pushed the brake down quick and a little harder than usual and it worked fine. My dad (not a mechanic but is rather good at fixing car problems) has no idea whats up. he checked the brakes and all the fluids. he even replaced the brake fluid.
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