Lexus GX 2010+ :: Engine Starting At 2000rpm And Slowly Drop?
Apr 4, 2016
Is it normal for the engine to start at 2000rpm and slowly drop?
View 10 RepliesIs it normal for the engine to start at 2000rpm and slowly drop?
View 10 Replies2012 Corolla S 5 speed manual. Just bought the car in September. CPO with 19k miles on it when purchased. Now it has 22k miles. The "problem" is as follows:
After driving the car around for some time, meaning fully warmed-up, when I come to a stop at a light the engine's idle speed will slowly drop from about 800 (where it's as smooth as glass and I can't even tell the engine is running) to about 650-600 and there's a noticeable shudder in the wheel and in the whole car. It lasts for a few seconds then the RPM goes back to normal - just as if it's correcting itself. This happens with nothing running except the radio. No fan, no A/C, nothing.
The only thing I could think is that the radiator fan is kicking on and causing the alternator to work harder? Considering this is a manual is it safe to rule out any kind of transmission issue?
I didn't notice it when I test drove the car, and honestly, the car I was driving before made so much racket that this Corolla sounds like a luxury car by comparison.
Just bought a XLE (currently have had the car for 2 weeks and a total of 275miles) and am experiencing a very strange rattle coming from the engine compartment when accelerating very lightly and engine being fully warm (being ran for atleast 15min). The rattle is coming during 2000-2300rpm. Below and above that range, the problem does not occur. The rattling noise sounds as if some metal is grinding on one another. I understand that the Dual VVT-i is notoriously known for it's noise (ticking/tapping of valves, naturally being a 4cyl, and a small amount of "roar" when applying large amount of throttle) but I think this problem I am exhibiting is by far, not normal.
Symptoms/Conditions:
1. Car must be hot/warm (must be driven for atleast 15 minutes)
2. Must be in a drive or reverse direction. Problem does not occur in park or neutral.
3. You have to be acclerating lightly, the engine rattle occurs from 2000rpm - 2300rpm. It's not a tapping or ticking sound but rather a "buzzing" metal to metal grinding.
4. Sounds like the sound is coming from the intake or exhaust systems and the rpm's is causing a natural vibration frequency that is causing a metal part to vibrate (or resonate). Could explain
5. The car doesn't seem to be power limited or anything abnormal. Drives just fine - just a rattling sound that I hate to believe is normal!
I'm under assumption that this is an engineering design flaw! I would encourage you as Toyota Corolla 2009 owners (1.8L, 4spd autos, manuals) to see if you can replicate this issue. Warm your car up, turn off heat/ac & radio (so you can clearly hear the engine), put it in drive, slowly excelerate, and listen as your rpm's increase (noise will only occur at 2000-2300rpm).
I have 2002 2.0 Jetta that I totaled. I found a 2000 2.0 Jetta that had no engine or tran. I swapped the entire wiring harness with the engine and trans from 2002 into 2000. I even swapped the doors. The cluster, steering column and all. I am still in the process of getting a few parts to finish it up. At this point, the only thing not hooked up is the headlights and the radiator. I hooked up a battery and tried to get it to turn over today. I turned the key to the on position and the cluster did not do anything. The engine turned over very slowly in the start position.
View 21 RepliesI have a 2011 sonata with the 2.4 liter 4 CYL motor and auto transmission. It has 61,600 miles on it. Just out of warranty...awesome.
In the last few days I've noticed it has had issues starting. For instance, when I got into the car and started it for the first time in the day, it starts up fine. Then a few hours later, I start it again but the engine will just spin slowly...I then turn the key back to off and then turn it again to start. It then will start up fine on the next try.
No check engine light or any sounds I can feel (I am Deaf so I cannot hear any sounds when it doesn't start) new battery in August of 2015. When it doesn't start, all of the dash lights come on.
1994 Caprice Classic (350 cid LT1)... Engine cranks very slowly, almost doesn't start, sometimes starter disengages/re-engages. 1year ago mechanic checked batty, alternator and starter, all ok. I had starter replaced as it seemed the most likely cause. Eventually got better but now is worse again. Also notice a lot of movement on the dash voltmeter needle, sometimes high, sometimes low, turn signal moves the needle. Ive spent hundreds of dollars on troubleshooting and the new starter. What could be causing this?
View 4 RepliesI'm in the military overseas and having a starting problem with my 2006 Ford Five Hundred. When the weather is cold, around 45 degrees F or lower the car starts OK however within about a second the RPM's drop between 400 and 500 and the engine starts to stumble. After about 3 to 4 seconds the RPM's gradually increase to around 1300-1400 RPM and is OK at that point.
View 5 RepliesRecently when starting RX350 the check engine light and Check AWD lights went on. Driving the car for a short distance it idled very roughly and had no power (could not exceed 50mph). Drove home, shut car off, and restarted within 5 minutes. All lights went out, and car performed well. No problems since....what could have caused this problem?
View 3 Replies1990 Maxima..245,000 miles...car idles fine except when sitting at stoplight for more than 15 seconds, then idle starts to drop slowly and become unstable. Then there is a separate issue: After putting the car in Park (after warming up) the car will drop/surge from approximately 1500 to 1800 rpms three times and then go back down to normal (I am guessing transmission clutch).
View 3 RepliesI bought a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L and noticed the engine would jerk really bad. It felt like the engine was going to jump out of the vehicle. I notice it does it when I turn it on in the morning and when I am driving slowly out my lane way the engine jerks. I have dealt with this problem since last year and they have already replaced the transmission which has done nothing. I took it back to the dealership and the service manager told me that he has already had 4 of the same vehicles come in with the same problem and they realized that they had to re-set the computer in the engine so that the transmission computer and the engine computer are on the same page that they talk to each other so to speak. Since they re-set the computer we have had the vehicle back a week today and this morning the car jerked again. I am tired of constantly taking this vehicle in and being told they have a solution and then it is not fixed. How am I supposed to sell a vehicle to someone when it feels like you are being lifted out of your seat because of the JERKING!!!!!
View 14 RepliesSo this has happened to me a few times now in the cold temps. For my job I'm left to sit and idle every now and then after over an hour of driving.
I'll park my car, ICE will turn off, ICE temp at 195. Sit with heat on at 65 degrees. After about 10 minutes the engine temp will drop to about 110, which the ICE will start and warm up to about 135 and turn off. Hybrid battery stays above 55% and normally hits about 65% on every ICE start. (I have extra instrumentation installed to monitor)
I just got my new up pipes put on as well as a 38R and pulling a hill hard my truck will hit about 22 psi then drop off slowly I have an electronic boost fooler wich has been on the truck since new pretty much but I don't get a CEL at all is this what I should be getting and I was on the 80hp tune? I ordered new boots and plenum inserts they just haven't got here yet. I know I had a leak before on my old up pipes because they rattled every now and then and I could see exhaust coming out of them when it was cold out but I could hit about the same 22 boost with my old setup. So pretty much nothing changed boost wise except it gets up to boost faster now. I would say it's defueling but I was always told the CEL would come on if that was the case.
View 13 RepliesI have an iPhone 4S that connects to the car fine. The problem is that it randomly drops bluetooth during a call. It does repair after random periods of time. My only guess is the phone because the iPhone 4 I just traded in never had this issue. I have tried deleting the pairing from both the car and phone without any luck.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2010 Santa Fa GLS. 88K miles. This issue started in the last 6 months, once the engine turns over the RPM drop low and starts to putter as if it is not getting enough fuel. If push down the gas when starting it works. Once it passes the first 2 -3 seconds everything is fine. No issue idling or driving. What this could be? It's not an issue with Starter, Battery, my best guess would be a sensor, leaky fuel injector.
View 1 Replies2007 GS 350 AWD in power mode, 22,000 actual miles on the car.
Pavement - dry
When going slowly over a neighborhood speed bump after about 2 minutes of low speed engine operation (engine still cold), the transmission seems to disengage, spinning in neutral for about one second, then it engages.
This doesn't happen when the engine is warm. Is this normal? Is it a problem?
I was driving slowly with cruise control on when the check engine light came on, a few restarts and it still didn't go away. All fluid levels are OK, no other errors show up on start-up or driving and the car drives fine on both ICE and EV modes.
I'm bringing the car in first thing tomorrow. I called my usual Lexus guy and he didn't know what the problem could be either. I'm a bit freaked out, to be honest. Wish I had an OBD dongle to use with Carista.
Today I was driving my 2005 Honda CRV when suddenly the car starting revving up while slowly stopping. It would not move after that. Car still reved up while stepping on the gas. Had to be towed to a mechanic. They could not look at it today.
View 12 RepliesWe have a 2002 Excursion XLT. 7.3 liter diesel. Edge chip.
It started turning over slowly when starting, and before I could take it in, it stopped starting completely. We tried jump starting it, nothing. the batteries seemed okay, so we took the starter down to the auto parts store and had it bench tested. It tested fine. We didn't think it would be the starter, since it is just under two years old. Didn't think the alternator was at fault, since it is a year old.
Purchased a new relay and installed it in the inside fuse box, nothing. We purchased two new batteries. After we dealt with rapidly flashing 'theft' light on the dash, it started up. Thought we had solved the problem. A couple of days later, slow to turn over when starting again. The next morning it wouldn't turn over at all. Tried to bypass all the sensors and relays between the ignition switch and the starter by connecting a wire between battery and starter. Nothing.
Had starter bench tested at a different store. It worked intermittently. Replaced the starter. Nothing. But when we hook up the battery directly to starter with key turned it turns over AND starts. Assume it something in ignition switch or a relay between ignition and starter. Bought a manual, but it doesn't show where to find relays. When I check trouble codes, I have a p1000, a p1260, a p0603, and a p0674.
So just last night I began having a small issue with my R32. While idling, the RPM's slowly starting getting lower to the point where the car almost stalled, probably in the neighborhood of around 300rpms, then it would slowly increase back to normal idle. It did this a few times then while driving and a steady cruise of 35mph I felt a large power loss for a second or two. This repeated a few times until I got home and parked it. I also noticed that the RPM's would fall much, much faster between shifts than normal during this episode. I drove it a short distance today. It it showed no signs of the same problem. Any possible causes?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2013 and after it sits for a day especially when it's warm the AC vents put out a moldy smell when starting. I've heard all the ideas of Turing off AC before shouting down engine but that shouldn't required for a Lexus of all cars. The dealer ran a refresh we thru the systems that worked for a few days but that was it. I've never had this problem with my 2004 RX. I also replaced the cabin filter with a charcoal based one. Seems a $45,000 vehicle shouldn't have this type of problem
View 14 RepliesI have a 2010 RX with 36k miles. Car started fine when i went to the store this morning, but when i went to leave the store, got a scratching/clicking sound when went to start the car. After several minutes of trying, it finally started. Lights/windows/electrics all worked fine. What the problem could be - battery, starter, something else?
View 4 Replies