Lexus GX 2010+ :: 120 VAC Power Outlet By Rear Door Hinge
Oct 25, 2014
Our 2010 base model GX 460 was 'born' in November 2009 and purchased new in February 2010, but we never used the 120 VAC power outlet at the back of the cargo compartment by the rear door hinge. I was cleaning and swapping 'summer' floor mats for 'winter' mats and decided to see if the outlet works. The appended pictures prove it does produce 120 VAC .... actually, almost 124 VAC, but I have no way to test if it can supply 100 Watts, much less the waveform shape. Perhaps it could light a 100 Watt incandescent bulb, but nothing sensitive to supply line glitches!
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Due to the rain this weekend I decided to clean out my interior and do some maintenance. Lately my driver-side door has been making a squeaking sound. As such, I decided to lube up all the doors just in case. Upon inspecting all the doors/hinges I found that both the driver-side rear door and passenger-side rear door hinge bolts are rusted real bad. These are the bolts that connect the hinge to the door rather than the hinge to the door frame.
I inspected the door for any sign of water intrusion, but could not see anything out of ordinary. Also, nothing else was rusted or appeared to be water damaged. I inspected all the other hinge bolts around the car for comparison and they were fine. It is strange that both rear passenger doors have this issue. I bought the vehicle used and the Carfax comes back clean with no accidents or damage reported.
The only other time I have seen this is when the door has been worked on, and a socket was used which stripped the protective paint off the bolt. Even then only the rough edges of the bolt rusted, and not the entire thing. While I could foresee one door being worked on, I do find it strange that both would have needed work. However, this assumption does not rule out the possibility.
My only other issue of concern which may play into this is the surprising amount of sand I find on the exterior. As good as one can clean a car there are always some places that will never get fully clean. With that said, while the exterior is clean I have found sand residue in little crevices (weep holes) and corners throughout. I am sure that sand and moisture would play a part in causing rust to accumulate, except that no other parts show any sign of rust. This is certainly bizarre to me. I plan on replacing the bolts, but would like to remedy the problem before hand if possible.
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2007 Chevy Impala 1LT3.5L Flex Fuel 6 cyl engineauto trans50,500 miles
Note: All new struts and tires one year ago (approx 7,000 miles ago) after hitting raised pavement road hazard on interstate at 70 mph and bottoming out car. Entire suspension system was thoroughly examined for damage at the time and only struts, tires and one front wheel bearing needed repair/replacement. Also, just passed safety and emissions inspection about six weeks ago prior to this new creaking sound appearing.
PROBLEM: Since weather turned cold about two weeks ago, an intermittent "creaky door hinge" sound in the car rear end when driving over rough spots and to a lesser extent sometimes when turning. No noticeable change in how the car handles, rides, steers, brakes, etc. Just the creaky door hinge sound from somewhere in the rear end. No recent hitting of pot holes or other reason I can think of for why this has started other than the advent of cold weather. Pushing down hard on the trunk and trunk corners does not reproduce the sound, although I can't really push down all that hard so that is no proof one way or the other.
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The thread started from a guy with a 2007 LS where his door hinges were becoming basically awful to the point where it was very difficult to shut the doors. My response follows...
So it's almost been two years since the last post in regards to this but I thought I would share a similar experience I'm going through with my 2007 GS 350. 2 months ago I broke down and bought a set of hinges for the right rear door because it got to the point that you physically had to walk with the door to close it ($400 parts, labor, paint). I am now having a similar experience with the driver door and it's getting worse every month.
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We have been tolerating a bad squeak in the driver's side front door upon opening, closing (any type of swinging of the door). Dealer tried lubricating it with no success. They told us that they would order a new hinge and "hope" that resolves it. I am a little worried about this. Would you trust your dealer to remove and re-install the door or just live with the squeak?
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Any time I open or close the driver side door, hearing some noise from the door hinge.
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Have a problem with the rear air distribution. I can not get it to work. What am I doing wrong?
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is there a fan in there...I was driving home no music and in the quietness of my Pri...I hear this sound....
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My RX 350 is 5 months old, 8000 miles. It has developed very annoying rattling noises under the rear seat and, sometimes, rear door panels.
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I just bought a 2010 RX450h and it is in overall great condition. The leather is damage though on the Rear Driver side door panel, so I am trying to remove it and get it repaired. I have removed 3 screws :
-one behind the door open/close latch
-one under the wood/window switch
-one in the handle area to pull door and close
I am now trying to take the panel off and have the bottom part pulled off. But I can't seem to pry open the top part... Am I missing something or a screw? Is there some trick? I am scared to break it.
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My 2010 RX350 (~30k miles) recently has been making a squeaking noise when I close my rear lift gate. Sounds like the squeaking is coming from the left side "Rear Door Hatch Support" ..i believe that is what it is called. Is this something I can WD-40 and lube? Car is under warranty..
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Is there a way to re-program the tailgate/rear door height? Or even manually adjust? Just purchased a 2012 RX 350, and my garage is about 4 inches too short. Now I realize I can disable the electronic lift, but it's a shame not to be able to use this feature. I'm sure others have had this problem, but I've googled with no success.
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I have owned my Prius three, not III, for just over 2 years now. The first year I had no issue but now, when charging my iPhone 6, the fuse blows every 2-4 weeks. (My phone is the ONLY thing I ever plug in there). I finally tried replacing the 15amp fuse with a 20amp (I know, that's a no no). But I still blew the 20amp fuse now.
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I just bought a used 2012 Elantra GLS with 24K miles. I tested almost every possible function of the car before I bought it however I didn't try out the 2 power outlets expecting them to both work on a car with only 24k miles.
Anyway, the center console outlet doesn't work. I'd like to check the fuse box first thing in the morning. I work night shift so I won't be able to get to it til then. Any other things I should look for?
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The power outlet under the dashboard doesn't work. The one in the console does work. Question? Where are the power outlet fuses located and how many?
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I was using the12V power outlet to power a small air compressor to a small air tank. Had to answer a phone and forgot about it for a while. When I returned, the air compressor was not working. I figured I either blew a fuse or fried the compressor. I pulled the 12v plug from the power outlet and inserted it in the cigarette liter outlet and the compressor still worked.
I then plugged my radar detector into the 12V outlet and it did not work.So I figureed I blew a fuse. I pulled the 15 amp fuse from #54 but it looked good. To double check I swapped this fuse with the 15 amp fuse for the rear wiper and the fuse was fine.
So I am thinking the 12V power outlet socket must be bad. Isn't that why we have fuses -to protect an expensive part with a cheap one? Is this an easy DIY job?
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I have a 2010 Gx460. The rear door has now become locked shut and will not unlock. When I hit the unlock button on the door all I get is flashers with a few beeps. What can I do?
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The power outlet in the tray under the front console in my wife's '08 RX400h has stopped working. I checked all three power outlet fuses indicated in the owner's manual and all are good (75 and 76 in the driver's side instrument panel fuse box and number 21 in the engine compartment (type B) fuse panel). Do I need to start ripping out the tray under the front console to find the problem?
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I checked my rx350 battery health and it is good. Still I am having recurrent issues when battery dies. And needs a restart. It happened many times and last one just happened this morning and I have feeling that this is related to rear hatch door...let me explain what happened:
Yesterday evening I went for grocery shopping and opened the rear hatch door using my car key remote, kept the groceries and closed the rear hatch using the button on the bottom of rear hatch door. I drove back to home and parked the vehicle in the garage. This morning I opened the rear hatch again and closed it, drove it to a house one block away, returned home and parked the car.
When I tried to start 1 hour later, the battery had already died. So, I have a feeling that opening and closing the rear hatch door 3 times caused this battery drain.
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I bought my 2012 RX 350 April 2012. I noticed that the rear mirror had like melting or warp look. Then the side door panel and in back -wing of car (spooler?) had some ripples lines. I went to dealer first they said they would order parts for mirror and side panel (this was fix awhile back sept). but the have to get factory inspector to come out and inspect car for the spooler part.
I dropped my car off because the manager says he needs to look car himself before determining anything. He told me he thinks I parked my car near high efficiency windows and had reflected and caused the melting or warp or ripple on my car.
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I have a problem with my driver side rear door's child safety lock. The safety lock is STUCK/BROKEN on the lock position and i cant get it back to normal... The door could only be opened from the outside right now at all times.
I took the door panel off too see if i could do anything to make it unstuck but very unfortunate...
The safety lock is a whole module itself. I bought it to my mechanic he checked it out and said it cannot be fixed and has to be replaced and he quote/estimated me just the part alone is roughly $300?
How much the part would cost in Sewell? I tried looking it up but cant locate it
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