Lexus GX 2004-09 :: Door Ajar Overhead Lights Come On And Within A Few Seconds Both Go Out
Dec 7, 2008
both this winter and last winter as it gets colder my GX will indicate that a door is ajar and the overhead lights come on and then within a few seconds they both go out. this seems to occur when accelerating from a stop and resolves once the vehicle gets over about 15 mph. in my estimation this seems to be related to the rear cargo door as if it partially opens just enough to let the sensor knows its slightly open. the dealer has been unable to duplicate it and it only happens when its around freezing or lower.
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When it rains my "door ajar" light comes on and the overhead lights won't turn off. that's the common problem. i've read many threads where it says to spray liberally with WD40. i intend to do that but the plot thickens.
Usually, after a few dry days, the light goes off and everything returns to normal. Not so any more. the newest episode entails the light staying on for two weeks of good warm, dry weather. naturally i always take the bulbs out. Now, its somewhat sporadic but.... I'll try to explain since I'm still trying to wrap my mind around it.
1. light stays on, dome lights won't go off.
2. tried dome lights couple of times, still wouldn't go off
3. finally, inserted dome lights and they wouldn't come on (except when manually switched on) however the door ajar switch was still on.
4. EXCEPT when i opened the passenger door the domes came on but wouldn't go off so i took the bulbs out again.
5. that's where i am now.
Not positive but I'm thinking since the new wrinkle in established expectations that I'll probably end up replacing the driver's switch. Before I tear up the door panel i need some hints concerning removal. the door has power windows and locks (which i need new actuators but that's a different story). Is there anything I need to watch out for?
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Like the subject says, I have been noticing over the last 2 months in my 03 GX470 that the interior lights and open door dash light come on when accelerating.
-The issue is exacerbated in cold weather. I have double checked all doors and rear hatch are closed.
-I have gone around and checked all door sensors are functioning, not sticky, etc.
-I climbed in the rear hatch and had my wife shut it. When I push on the plastic under the window, the lights come on. When I push on the glass itself (and push MUCH harder then on the plastic) the lights do not come on.
Clearly I have an issue in the rear hatch trim area.
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Okay, so the door ajar light came on the other day and the interior lights would not turn off when I turned off the car. This is a 2004 Century. I ended up removing the fuse so that I can be assured that the battery wouldn't drain. The problem is in either the driver or left passenger door. I couldn't see any door switches like I've seen on other vehicles so I'm wondering if this is a latch issue or an electrical issue.
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I've noticed that my overhead lights sometimes turn on when the driver's door is opened and sometimes they do not. (the overhead switch is in the middle "door" position). They work when the passenger door is opened but sporadically with the driver's side.
I haven't had time to RTFM on the MFD lighting selections but is there something that controls this in there? When they did want to work, they would turn on for about a second after the door is opened and then faded out. The only thing I've done recently is the fuel tank recall but this could've been pre-existing and I never picked up on it.
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Today I've been working on fixing the Door Ajar problem that's developed in my 2002 ranger extended cab. I haven't made any progress taking the main doors apart and testing the switches. Doing a little research on the forum I learned that the door ajar wiring is tied in with the dome/instrument dimmer. Well that's interesting because my instrument dimmer was never worker properly. It dims the running lights instead of anything in the cab, and if I turn it down too low, the fog lights won't function.
So I have a few questions:
+What's the way to determine which door, if any, is sending "door ajar"? I'd rather not take the back doors apart, and check the wiring on each door.
+What's the deal with my dimmer?
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The dome light and door ajar light on my 97 Ranger stay on. The switches are good, is there a relay or other device in the circuit?
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The Issue: Dash display reads "Passenger Door Ajar", interior lights stay on, drains battery
Current Fixes I've completed
Sprayed electrical cleaner in all 4 door latch assemblies (didn't work)
Relubricated all 4 door latch assemblies with food grade lithium grease (didn't work)
Replaced passenger door full latch assembly (didn't work)
What is my next step? I have noticed that if I wedge the door lock button on the driver's side door into the lock position, the door ajar message turns off and stays off? I was thinking wiring or relay issues?
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My 08 Prius developed a hiccup yesterday. While driving down the interstate there was an occasional red flash from the dash. It would come and go so fast that by the time I could actually process it and focus it was gone. I had to stop by the dentist office as I was ready to walk out the door I heard a car in the parking lot with the horn/alarm sounding. I mentioned to the folks in the waiting room that someone alarm was going off. A lady replied that green Prius with the bike rack!
Sure enough it was mine! I was unable to find any causal factor. I left there and at my next stop, the horn/alarm started sounding just as I walked through the entrance door to Home Depot back to the parking lot. This time the Door Ajar/Open light on the dash was lit. I opened and closed all the doors and hatch. The Door Ajar light was still on I then manually manipulated all the door switches and opened/closed/slammed the hatch several times. No Joy I drove home.
About the only thing I was able to find was that it was probably the hatch, the switch is sealed within the locking/latch mechanism and that I could simply just unplug it. So I began troubleshooting.
After removing the rear hatch/floor, plastic bin, etc. I removed the plastic cover from around the latch (above the bumper not on the hatch lid), then removed the longer plastic cover that runs along the same area and provides the cover for the area between the rubber gasket and the inside of the hatch/floor area. Now I was able to see the latch mechanism and associated wiring (looking down toward the spare tire well). I also had the hatch light turned on (left side) which was easier to see than the Door/Ajar light on the dash.
I manually tripped the latch and the light flickered. I pressed down on the latch (hoping to put more pressure on the internal switch)…the light continued to flicker. Using a 10mm socket, I removed the latch, wiring retainers and disconnected the plug. The electrical plug, located about 8†to the left of the latch has 4 wires. The two on the bottom power the electrically operated latch and the two on top go to the Door Ajar switch (the one that is inside the latch assembly).
I noticed a little bit of corrosion and discoloration on one of the male pins (the plug that is connected to the latch end of the wiring). The female plug (connected to the car end of the wiring) also had some discoloration.
I plugged them back together and found that as I moved the wires/plug the light would flicker and change sometimes turning off. I unplugged it and connected my ohm meter (using small jumper wires with clips) to the two top (male) pins on the switch end of the plug. The switch tested fine. I even tested it with my homemade battery powered continuity light (wanting to test the switch under a load). I also wiggled the wires going into the plug itself, Perfect, no problems here! So, I determined the problem was truly with the plug itself. I also jumped the two female connectors with a short piece of wire (simulating the switch) and the light would come on (as it should have). OK, plug problem confirmed!
I cleaned the pins (both male and female), applied some dielectric compound and plugged it up. The light remained off for a few seconds then started flickering again! I could even hear a slight hissing sound coming from the plug (never a good sign). I tried tweaking the male pins (bending them slightly trying for a better connection) No Joy.
I clipped the wires (only the top two) from each end of the plug (red & white/black stripe wires coming from the latch).
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I have checked the fuses, Checked the relays, Checked for pinched wires and checked for a loose connection at the fuse box, Both power mirrors and the overhead console lights do not work, Power windows work fine, Manual seats .
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So yesterday I installed a Kenwood Double Din with a back up camera....that being said I was in and around the car all day, door panels, trim panels, rear bumper etc etc all removed. After completing the install the "Door Ajar" light stayed on, on the dash. No interior lights remained on to show a doors open, and the trunk light goes out when the doors closed. The drivers side door module is no good, and its been no good for a few months now. It doesn't show when the doors open, so i doubt that is the problem. What it could be? Any way to figure out which door is the one that's staying open?
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Having issues with the door switches. My driver door, when opened, will cause a quick "door ajar" message then go back to as if I closed the door. Only once have I closed the door to have the dome light stay on. Doesn't do it all the time but is more frequent with the cold weather setting in. I got the service truck next week so its a good time to bring it in for warranty work.....
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My overhead screen is not working (gx470 2003). What connections do I need to check first before replacing the whole unit.
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Having issues with the rear tailgate door unlocking. Seems like mine on occasion is only making a noise but not unlocking completely and showing the door ajar light with the beep. When it happens, its a pain to get it to stop and close completely, or even open. I have to push hard on the door to get it to stop.
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Vehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
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specifically what happens to the 2 batteries. I know in all the other cars I have owned, eventually the 12v battery would died and car won't start.
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The door ajar symbol came on when I started my car after work, I checked all the doors, trunk and hood and all were closed correctly. It didn't go off and I kept driving, as I was driving it would go on and off intermittently and stay on for brief periods of time. None of the interior lights go on when this occurs. I have manual locks, no central no power.
It did rain heavy yesterday, and a bit today, if the front doors are like the back (metal piece on door slides into slot on car to ensure it is closed. Could it be a water issue? I looked on my front doors and don't see the metal piece like the back, for some reason I suspect it is the driver door causing issue. The driver door is the only door I have taken the plastic panel off, but I doubt I messed anything up and that its even related to this with manual locking.
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I just bought a 2002 Focus ZX5 about a month ago and recently, I've been having issues with my door ajar light coming one while driving. Sometimes it will stay on for awhile and other times it will flicker on and off. I'm not sure how to go about diagnosing this one. I just pray it's not the GEM module.
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2006 durango 4.7 awd checked all recalls, none outstanding. The door ajar light remains on which means the interior light does while driving (along with the warning alarm beeps) and after leaving the vehicle also.
Been around all the doors to make sure they are shut, but cannot turn it off. Where would the switches be located on the doors or is there some other thing I should be looking for.
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I have a 2002 Camry SE. Recently, the 'door ajar' light on the dash has come on & will not go off. I have reclosed all the doors: still on. I have individually opened each door & pressed the door switch on & off: still on. I have checked the fuses under the hood & by the driver side panel & all look fine.
Also, two other things are curious about this: when I press the key fob to lock the doors, there is a high pitched whine that come from the passenger side engine compartment, & only stops when I press the unlock button on the fob.
The second is that when I am driving and I try to lock all the doors from the drivers arm-rest control, they all lock but cycle quickly to unlock again & will not stay locked. The dome light will not go off either.
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My door ajar light is stuck on in my 2000 Subaru Forester, whether the car is on or not. I had to replace the battery as it ran down the old one. Sometimes it goes off for a week or more at a stretch, but it always comes back on. As of now it has been on continuously for about 8 months. I have tried everything minus taking the door panels off.
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