Lexus GX 2004-09 :: Truck Wants To Pull Right When Braking Hard
Oct 14, 2012
When I brake hard. My truck wants to veer right. It drives straight otherwise.
I recently had my front shock replaced and prior tp that my truck did the same thing, although it was much worse since my left front shock was leaking. Originally I thought it was pulling because of the bad shock but now that thet've been replaced I am not to sure.
Alignment issue or something else entirely? Coud bad rear shocks cause the issue?
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If I brake hard a dozen times, 8 or 9 will be normal, a couple times it will pull to the right but as long as your hands are on the wheel you can barely tell, and maybe once it will pull really hard. I have Hawk super duty pads and Ebc rotors with less than 5k on them and I just replaced the front calipers and hardware because I thought that was the problem.
It's not even consistent. Could possibly be rear calipers (rear also has new Hawk pads and Ebc rotors with less than 3k on them) but I don't think it would pull that hard. Tire pressure is even between sides btw.
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I have a 2006 that shuts off in a hard pull, if I wait 3 minutes it starts again. I hooked up my scan tool and when it dies and I crank it it only builds 200psi oil pressure, let it sit it builds enough pressure to run fine. If I dont push it over 3500psi for more than minute it wont die pull a hill it dies again. Is it the hpop or an o-ring.
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When I brake very hard my right front wheel will skid, it releases quickly if I modulate the brakes. I removed the calipers to check for any frozen pistons. They are free. Pads are even and the rotors are good. I did bleed the system and no difference. what would cause this? Since I have looked at the mechanical aspect I wonder if there is sensor issue, is that a potential? I am not even sure if there is a sensor.
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i have a 2WD 2004 Ford Ranger regular cab. I have replaced the rotors three times in the last year due to warpage. What is causing this? The truck does not pull to one side or the other while driving. applying the brakes don't cause it to pull to one side either. According to my mechanics, neither caliper is sticking. the right brake pad does show some signs of heat damage (cracking). There is no uneven tire wear. I have a buddy who thinks it may be a bent wheel hub, but my mechanic says no because no uneven tire wear. They are leaning to a faulty brake hose, but can't say for sure.
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Just replaced break pads and rotors. Inner pad on left side was gone leading me to believe slides were not working properly. Pulled apart, cleaned and greased everything, and replaced pads and rotors. Calipers seem to be working fine. Now when I break hard, the truck pulls badly to the left. When I break softly, it seeks normal. My front end is a bit out of whack and veers just a bit to the left. Do you think this is my issue with the breaking ? I'm getting new tires and an alignment soon but was just curious.
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I have a 2004 super duty diesel 6 with electrical trouble dash lights stopped working put in new fusses where needed still no dash lights but now truck starts and runs ok but will not shut off unless I pull ignition.
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GS350 ... The behavior is such that under hard braking, the transmission struggles to get into 1st gear from any speed to 0 MPH. Only happens under hard braking. Basically it feels like the tranny is slow in getting back to first. If im driving at 40 and brake hard to 0, once i stop, the tranny feels like its still getting into 1st for the next 2 seconds and then it hurches confirming it has reached 1st gear.
The second behavior is that when I am driving at 70 MPH or any speed, and i brake hard to reduce speed 10-15 mph, the rpms will go from its normal 70MPH Rpm ~2000 RPM and drop to idle speed around 500RPM while the car is still at 60 mph.
Link " [URL] .....
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2008 GX with 42K and just driving home and battery light comes on and a whirring noise--pull over and open hood smell strong electrical smell--ok Alternator fried. Got it home and battery light off but still when I put a meter to my battery with engine running its only putting out 13.4V? should be at least 14.5-6 correct. Has to be Alternator cause of the symptoms and the burning electrical smell..
SO WHO has changed alternator and how hard was it? Im looking for it and I think its under the Power steering pump it seems left side engine looking at it.??
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When I bought my X, the front end would periodically shake and pull to the right.
I recently redid the front brakes on my X. Replaced everything except the rotors; they looked okay. That fixed it pulling to the right and fixed the shaking somewhat, but it still shakes when I apply the brakes.
I don't feel it through the pedals. It's all up front, too. You can see the steering wheel shaking really bad.
What I'm thinking is maybe it's my tie rod ends? I think my front brakes were locking up and causing the shake to happen all the time. I think when I fixed that, it made it to where the shake only happens under braking. This makes me think it's the tie rod ends, or something else loose up there. I recently replaced the ball joints, too.
Or could it be the rear rotors? I just want to make sure I'm close before I start throwing parts at it!
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I am having problems with my steering being all over the place. I noticed it at first when braking. It would pull to both sides. At a stop light holding the brakes my steering would randomly pull. I replaced the power steering pump. It didn't fix it. Now just driving it pulls all over. I was thinking steering box?
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I have a 2008 RX350. When i shut off the engine and pull the key out i hear a constant clicking sound. I dont really know where its coming from but i can kind of pin point it maybe to the windows or door i'm not too sure. I also notice the interior light flickering to the same pattern as the clicking noise.
Second problem - in the middle of the night the alarm goes off! Its the alarm without the horn noise. For some reason i cant switch it off with the fob key. No matter what i do i cant switch it off. So it goes on for about 20 seconds and stops. I just leave the car unlocked after that and it doesnt come back. The alarm noise is coming from the boot....
Third problem Now the navigation screen flickers. Blacks out then the lexus emblem appears then switches back on itself.
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My 2007 Prius brakes extremely hard at low speed (while I am applying the same amount of pressure). While decelerating, I let the regen braking do most of the work until I get to about 10mph, then I press the brake so I will have equal pressure until I stop. When I get to about 5mph I feel almost a lunge where the brakes aren't working as hard and then the brakes take hold extremely hard. My prius has been doing this for awhile not depending on the weather, but I finally noticed it worse than normal yesterday when it was raining and my car braked hard and actually skid and the traction control light came on.
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I recently purchased a used 2006 Ford F-150 (5.4l RWD). I was fully aware of a problem with the brake rotors when I bought the truck from a dealership. They supposedly changed the rotors and the rotors appear to be new...But every time I brake the truck almost flutters in the front end. I haven't noticed vibration while on the highway, only when braking. I am worried because I can fix it I just cant seem to figure out what the problem is.
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I just had my front axels replaced. The Cv's were clicking. That problem was fixed.
Metal clunk at initial acceleration and hard braking (none during steering)...
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I've had it happen a few times over the past few years (07 Pri) that when I have to brake really hard, the front lower dash 12V lighter outlet fuse blows. Seemed odd at the time but when I replaced the fuse and everything came back to life I kind of forgot about it.
Today we had a crazy idiot try the mad dash across 4 lanes of traffic and that of course made all cars slam on their brakes. Wouldn't say it was a ABS type slam but certainly hard braking.
Anyway, I heard the chime of a 12V device powering off and a bit later we noticed the MFD, radio, and clock were all off. Probably everything cut out at the same time but obviously attention was on the traffic not the electronics.
I saw some people mention that is the ACC fuse which I'm about to go and check on, but what is causing this. Just seems odd that hard braking causes such electrical issues. Wouldn't think there would be an overlap in systems but maybe?
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Wanted to ask B6 owners first, from time to time I hear what I think is a backfire after doing a hard pull in 3rd but never in 2nd. Now I'm not sure its a backfire but after I shift to 4th I hear a small pop from the back of the wagon. Don't know if this will happen in 4th after a pull, have not had enough road or balls to do this. ( In Oregon you get a huge ticket and license pulled for 30 days for anything over 100.) Everything runs fine, I only have the Neuspeed intake for the autos and thats it. Any thoughts you B6 owners have B4 I go to the 2.0 fsi page would be great. Here are some pics from the big snow storm we had here in Portland back during xmas. The Thule chains worked great when I was not high centered.
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The 3rd row seat in my 2006 Mazda MPV doesn't secure itself to the two clamps on either side no matter how hard I pull on the back strap. What to do?
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I'm getting tired of this. Bought my Ex in April 2013
Realized in June '13 that truck would pull to the left a little when I braked. Replaced pads and rotors. Factory pads and rotors looked normal but whatever.
December 2013 - shimmying when braking downhill (not towing). Replaced rotors, pads and calipers with Power Stop.
September 2013 - Everything was good but I now have the the left pull about 35% of the time when I brake. After extended downhill mountain driving (7%+ grade for 15 miles) I get the shimmying. I only get the shimmying in this situation.
When I had my tires rotated (reputable shop) I was told I only had a 2-3k miles left on my pads.
I do drive aggressively so I'm not surprised I need to replace my pads more often, especially on a large vehicle. That said pads wearing out at ~10k miles normal?
I was going to just order new pads and install them this weekend but what is going on. Ex currently has about 64k miles on it.
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On my wife's '06 Elantra, the hand brake is very hard to pull up, barely getting one click from it. I've done some looking around and have not been able to find a solution to the problem.
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Last night it was just below freezing and the roads were a little damp so I figured I'd see at what point ESP would kick in on a hard 2nd gear pull. Sure enough power cuts off at around 4000-4500 rpm.
Turn "off" ESP, try another hard 2nd gear pull expecting some nice tire squeal but I get nothing and obviously still no traction from 4500-6000 rpm. Was my clutch slipping? Is ESP capable of knowing when the clutch is slipping (I would think it had nothing to do with it)? Maybe it was just damp enough that the rubber was spinning in one place but it wasn't making any/limited amount of noise?
Car: GTI, Manual, Stage 1, Winter Tires.
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