Lexus GX 2004-09 :: Transmission Shuddering While Driving At Approx 35 Mph
Nov 27, 2010
2005 GX470 transmission shuddering. While lightly driving, I feel a shudder at approx 35 mph, then again at 45 mph. I took it to the local Lexus dealer to have them analyze. Would you believe I could not get it to shudder when the mechanic went for a ride-along. Meanwhile, I'll just wait until the problem gets worse then bring it back in.
The mechanic mentioned Lexus had problems with the LX a few years back with transmission shuddering, but not with the GX.
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I have an 06 Lexus GS300 awd. Yesterday, when I left out of my neighborhood, my car drove approx 1 mile and just STOPPED running. I coasted to the shoulder of the road & attempted to start it again. It cranked & started for about 2 secs & died again. After that, each time i tried to crank, it would try & try to start (starter sounded strong) yet would never "turn over". I could feel/hear a few rough spitting & sputtering type feelings/sounds trying to start it, but ultimately it wouldnt crank.
I called a friend (another single mom) to come get me & i purchased some starter fluid & went back to try it. We hooked it up to her battery as I had run mine low trying to crank it. After it had been sitting there while we went to the store, it again tried to crank when I attempted to start ot, but died again within a sec or 2. Then, wouldnt fully crank again. I hear my alternator clicking & as i said earlier, the starter sounds very strong & normal when i push the ignition button.
I tried to just turn it to the "on" position (2 button pushes), leave it a few secs, turn off, then try to crank again (hoping to "prime" the gas lines in case it somehow had sucked in any air or water....which it kinda "feels" like) Still after all that....nothing. I tried having my friend crank while i sprayed starter fluid into the intake, and it actually cranked and would stay running as long as i was continually spraying the fluid. The sec i stopped, it stopped. I really dont hear the fuel pump turning on, although admittedly I guess I never have paid attention before this to know if I ever could "hear" it previously. Im wondering if its just a very quiet one, or if its not turning on at all? (I understand it's in the back of the car kind of under the backseat & not under the hood).
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Those with AWD model LS's and shuddering transmissions. Don't go into the dealership barking orders. Just mention that you "think" your car is suffering from this condition and that you would like it checked. Certain conditions have to be met with the vehicle so plan on leaving it with the dealer for the day if possible. It has to be driven with the scan tool connected and recording live data. So this is NOT something you want to drop-in unannounced for.
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On Friday the engine in my V8 stalled while driving at approx 40 mph. I shut it off and restarted, and it idled very rough and stalled again. I had it towed home. Tried starting it at home. started and idled fine. Just went out this AM, started it and drove it around the neighborhood, ran fine. The check engine light never came on at any time. I had noticed one of the variable intake linkage arms as being busted and thought that was the cause. I now understand that that is most likely not related.
So, where does this leave me? As I was listing too it running, I noticed a faint humming coming from this thing on top of the motor. Underneath the VW logo cover is a round black plastic piece with a large hose attached to the side, and a hose coming out the bottom. If I tilt this slightly, the humming stops. I realize this probably has nothing to do with the stalling, but I'm fishing.
Why the car stalled, and/or if this crankcase ventilation/emissions device should be humming.
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1986 302 w/ 160k miles. Loses oil pressure at idle after driving approx 10 miles. Rev engine to about 1500 rpm and hold it there, pressure builds back up. Oil & filter change w/ 10W30 gives no improvement, oil & filter change w/ 20W50 cures problem for 100 miles, then the pressure starts dropping again. Oil pump problem or bad bearings? BTW, when pressure drops, I do not hear any lifter clatter.
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I have a 2003 lexus gx and every time I am driving around 1,500 rpms it has a vibration and it feels like its coming from the transmission.
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I have a 2000 Lexus RX300 with 210,000 miles on it. We recently started to have some transmission issues. It sporadically drops into 1st gear while driving. We had the transmission fluid changed, and it did work for a short time, but it has recently started again. Is my transmission going to completely fail or is this something that is serviceable? We are trying to decide whether it's worth it to keep the car and fix it and drive it for another 100,000 miles or sell it. It looks great and drives great, otherwise.
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I'm a proud owner of 2005 Mustang GT, 4.6L with an automatic transmission. Intermittently for the last year or so (maybe once every 3 or 4 months) its been shuddering when in reverse. Today it ramped things up a notch. :-/ The shuddering was pretty dramatic when I was trying to back out of my driveway, I shifted into park for a moment, then back into reverse, and it seemed to be ok. Then when trying to back into a parking spot this afternoon at work (in a parking garage with a small incline) it lost power almost entirely in reverse, lightly pushing on the gas just caused the car to shudder and not move anywhere. I shifted into park, and then back into reverse and heard an audible "pop" (my windows were down, but they hadn't been earlier so I'm not sure if this happened in the morning) and the car did not want to reverse. Rather than risk further damage I decided that it was parked relatively ok (90% in the space, eh good enough) so I stopped.
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Working on a 2002 prius with 153k miles. bought it with a "Bad transmission" diagnosed by toyota dealer. Got I home and did a quick check but there were no codes. I drove it about 50 feet into my garage where it would shudder badly while being driven which from my experience sounds like a bad MG2 motor. Drained the oil and thought hhmmm th oil does not smell bad and neither did it look burned. Proceeded to pull the mg2 but found it looked brand new, no burned spots or any such thing. SO I put it back together and think its a bad invertor. put on a different invertor that I have lying in my garage that I "think" is good and start the car. get code p3125 and p3120 and still have the bad shuddering when i try to drive it..Is there any way to test it further before I pull the trans and put a new trans back in?
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I have a 2002 F150 Super crew with a 5.4 and a 4R70W tranny. The issue I am experiencing is when the truck is driven where the tranny has shifted through all it's gears and cruising at say 55 mph, when depressing the accelerator pedal it either downshifts of something unlocks making a shuddering sound which sounds like when you run over rumble strips on the side of the road. The shuddering only happens for maybe a second at the most. If I am on the accelerator pedal when it up shifts or locks back up it makes the shuddering sound again. The harder the unlocking / locking or downshifting / up shifting happens the harder and longer the shuddering is.
This shuddering happens at the very last transmission function which happens in the transmission during it's normal operation. Other tan this issue the tranny shifts and operates excellent.
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I bought a 1979 Mercedes 300SD Turbo Diesel. The car was in great shape and only had 45,000 miles on it, no rust and the engine runs strong. It did have a brakes problem.
The owner that I bought it from had been driving it around for some time (he never did tell me how long) with toasted brakes. I didn't know they were toast at the time but the car was really cheap, so I bought it.
The big issue with the car is that when you reached around 50+ mph it would start to shake and shudder violently. So much so that it was very unsafe to drive. I could also smell burning brakes. The first thing I did was get 4 new tires on it, and an alignment. I suspected it needed much more then that so from there it was to a repair shop.
It turns out the previous driver had cooked the brakes. He had been driving around with a bad master cylinder, the shuddering was the brakes being applied on and off while driving. That explained the burning brakes smell (from the front) as well. I was a strapped for cash so they replaced the wheel bearings, rotors, pads and master cylinder. After that, it drove ok for about 40 miles or so, then the shudder started again, only not as bad as before.
I parked it in the back yard for the next two weeks. At that point I took it out again for about a two mile test drive to see if I could spot anything that set it off... about a mile into the drive, the brake light came on and I lost about 50% of my braking power. Parked it again.
About two weeks after that, I brought it to the repair shop again for round two (This time when I started it, the brake light didn't come on, and the brakes behaved normally...???) . This time, they replaced the front rotors (and possibly another item but I can't remember off the top of my head). It drove great for another 30-40 miles again and then the burning brakes smell came back. I could also feel a little bit of the shaking coming from the steering wheel again. I decided to have the tires balanced again. While there the burning smell was strong, the tire and brakes guys said it was probably just everything re-seating and not to worry about it to much.
All went well for the next little while. Several days went by where I would feel the vibration start, but then go away again before it became to bad. It was just kind of annoying. Then Friday, it started coming back like it was originally. I commute 70 miles each way for work.On the commute home Friday, it started the same old original shaking and shuddering again. It was about 25% of its original strength, it only lasted a mile or two, then vanished again. By the end of the long weekend, I was starting to think maybe I was over estimating it, so I drove it to work again. Same thing, once on the way it did its shuddering and shaking, stronger this time, it does it for a few miles then vanishes.
Over lunch, I took it the dmv and the shuddering was just as bad as it was when I bought it. I got about 2 miles down the freeway and it started shaking violently once it was up to 60mph, the shaking comes back under control somewhat under 55mph, but the problem persisted for most of the 12-13 miles to the dmv. When I parked, there was the strong smell of burning brakes again. On the drive back to work, it behaved normally, although I didn't go faster then 60mph. The shaking seems to start at the beginning of the commute, lasts for 10+ miles or so, then goes away.
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The problem is that it appears the torque converter is locking up so early even right after getting into second gear at speeds between 20km/h and 40km/h. This causes shuddering/rattling coming from under the hood. If I am not mistaken a torque converter should lock up at speeds 80km/h+. I've never seen this behavior on any car before. I'm not sure what kind of damage is being done either by all this shuddering and rattling going on with the transmission. I feel that this should be something that needs to be addressed via some software update. Is there any software update in regards to this issue?
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I have a 2007 Honda Element. When I am driving at slower speeds (<20mph) and turn sharply the vehicle shudders very hard. What is causing this?
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I have a '98 Civic Dx with 217,000+ miles on it. Last year I had the water pump and timing belt replaced and beginning in February I noticed my antifreeze was disappearing but couldn't find any leaks. One mechanic said it was the water pump, so I had it redone under warranty. The antifreeze is still disappearing and now my mechanic tells me it's the radiator. (Don't you think he would have said that the first time?) It seems that the transmission is starting to go (see below) so I'm wondering if it's worth replacing the radiator or trying to patch any leaks I can find. I've heard such mixed reviews on patching radiator leaks and this mechanic won't do it. The part is cheap and I can probably replace or repair it myself. So, repair or replace?
I've had a few incidents of my car shuddering after I start driving and losing power around the first turn. Sometimes the shudder is worse if I've turned the car on, idled for a few moments and then started driving. The shudder was similar to one time when I had a bad spark plug wire, so thinking it was that I gave my car a tune up-- new plugs, wires, cap, rotor. But two mornings ago it nearly stalled as I was taking the first turn off my street.
Then yesterday morning it nearly stalled after I backed out of my parking space and began driving (I'd sat for a few moments with the car idling before backing out). For a while I've felt like it wasn't really getting full power around the first turn. I don't know how to describe it except that pushing on the accelerator didn't really do anything until the car had completed the turn and straightened out. I haven't had any problems throughout the rest of the day-- it drives just fine. It's only when it's been sitting at least overnight.
I'm in denial about it being my transmission. It has never liked to start when I've down to or below a quarter tank of gas, and someone else who called the show about that was told that the fuel system was probably losing pressure as it sat overnight, which sounds like what happens to mine. Could this be another symptom of that? Or could something in the fuel system be clogged, like the filter? (My Dad had a clogged fuel filter once and his car would lose power on an incline.) Or is this perhaps the beginning of the end for my little friend? I'm at 217k...
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Have a 2001 Corolla with 150k miles on it. It isn't straight up dying, but it is shuddering when driving at slower speeds or while stopped at a stop light. Have had the air intake looked at so that shouldn't be it. Sometimes the lights on the dash will dim when this happens but not sure if it might be a battery issue or that is just happening because the car is dying.
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Ill start off with my mods and recent maintenance things I have done before fully describing the issue.
E99 7.3l with 190k on the clock
Full 5" turbo back
TS-6 chip
EGT, Boost and trans temp gauge
New ford glow plugs
Re-orings injectors
new valve cover gaskets
new fuel filter and fuel lines
new turbo with a ww2
Newer trans and oil pan
I think that should do it, now for my problem. The truck starts good cranks over once and is running with no hesitation, the engine run a little rough, more than normal vibration at idle almost like a small miss. No smoke at idle.
While driving with no/little load on the engine runs great , but under load there is a good amount of white smoke/ oil smell. The turbo is new and is not leaking oil I have already checked over that and the exhaust is new but there is some oil that is at the tail pipe in liquid form. The exhaust up pipe that goes to the turbo is not covered in oil either
The truck cruising in OD or in 3rd with O/D off around 2k rpms it shudders real bad almost like the truck is going to shake its self apart. but at like 2400 rpms and above its fine. Where is a good place to start the diagnosis as I am pretty new to the Diesel world. From what I've read it looks to be either rings are junk or maybe I have some bad injectors (thats what it feels like to me) but would that cause it to smoke like crazy?
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I have a new-to-me 2008 LS600hl I recently purchased with just over 60k miles. When I test drove the car I noticed some vibration that the dealer and I presumed to be tires or even warped rotors, however after a balance and resurface (they paid for) the problem persisted. I then set out to isolate it further my getting up to 60mph and letting the car coast down to 35 several times. There is a very pronounced shudder in the driveline- almost like a washboard road effect, most noticeably as it drops through the 40's mph. I can completely eliminate this if I drop the drivetrain in neutral- therefor it has to be in regeneration or the transmission.
That said, the dealer had a Lexus engineer look at it. His assessment was uncertain, as there are no other LS600's around to compare it too. They would like the problem to be more pronounced so that they can be sure where the problem is coming from and asked me to drive it an additional 5000 miles.
The mechanic and service tech agree with me there is a problem, but are now somewhat bound by their engineer telling them to wait 5000 miles. I'd really like to have something else to support my claim. The car has a week of warranty left on the drivetrain when I purchased it- so the problem is documented.
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My 2007 es350 is already warmed up, so I know its not a temp issue.
My VSC light comes on (i know it comes on with any DTC)
My traction control light is on
My engine light is on
Now, when driving, it doesnt shift out of first gear till about 4K rpm and thats at normal acceleration (not flooring it) and shifts out of range on all other gears.
I can hear a humming/winding noise coming from the left side of the car (tray side) and it does it and I can hear it very clearly when letting off the accelerator (more noticeable at high speeds)
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Yesterday there was a lot of rain. The car stalled during the rain at approx 2k rpm on 4th gear. I tried starting it and it did nothing as if battery was dead. Before this I was getting alternator workshop icon and lost of power steering (I believe because of PS belt). Anyways, Car doesn't want to crank, starter won't do anything but click.
Could the motor have gotten water in it by the CAI? There was little condensation on the MAF but not enough to get to the throttle body. Anyways, once they towed it home I removed coils and spark plugs and started it to remove any water but starter won't go.
I have checked all fuses, I've connected Vagcom and shows nothing since car won't start. Is there a sensor that goes bad with the rain? I've heard of crank shaft sensor, would it mean anything here? Has starter gone bad? Is the motor frozen up?
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Since new in Jan 04, the trans will disengage, the tach will shoot up and then BANG engages as though I put it in nuetral & then back in drive. Third time to the dealer last Friday and all they want to do is "flash". It did it again as I was leaving the dealer. I have had this happen at 55mph while passing & warmed up but bostly while cold at low speed. 1st or 2nd gear.
I haven't seen any other complaint like this but this is a safety issue.
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I have about 72k miles on my Highlander, which we purchased certified through a dealer in May. At the time of purchase, we noted an intermittent rattling noise, but didn't think much of it. It has increased in frequency and in volume since that time. I have had it to the dealership four times now to have it fixed. They have replaced the heat shield on the exhaust, tightened my license plates and today replaced my catalytic converter (at no cost to me) Imagine my dismay upon driving home and again hearing the rattle. When they decided the rattle was related to the catalytic converter, they were essentially banging around my car with the handle of a hammer and trying to replicate the rattle...needless to say, I am a little concerned that the techs are unable to determine the root of the problem, much less fix it. It seems to be correlated to some degree with a certain RPM. It sounds as if something is loose somewhere, but that place is a mystery to at least four different techs (all of whom I have driven around so that they could hear the sound and who still cannot identify it).
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