Lexus GX 2004-09 :: Small Amount Of Smoke After New Rotor And Pad Install
Aug 8, 2013
I just replaced my front rotors and brake pads this afternoon. I took it for a test run around the block and had allot of smoke come off the rotor on drivers side. I concluded that it had seized, and replaced it with a new rotor. I then test drove it a good two miles to fill the girl up with gas, when I got home I saw that my passenger side rotor had a faint amount of smoke. Granted I did a sloppy job and there was brake fluid everywhere. With all that being said, when I drove her to get gas it did not pull to the right, jerk or pulse. I was able to stop on a dime, I guess I want to know if this small amount of smoke is just the new pads adjusting to the new rotor?
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My front disc brakes are creating a small amount of drag on the rotor. With the car jacked up and wheel off I am able to easily turn the rotor by hand, but there is a small amount of drag. I haven't had any problems with my brakes, they have never frozen or overheated, etc. I put new brake pads and rotors on the front about 6 months ago only because it was time for replacement. The question is: how much disc brake drag is acceptable? Looking around on the internet for answers there doesn't seem to be a consensus: some people say absolutely no brake drag, some say that a small amount is normal. What do you think?
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I have a 04' RX 330 with 92k. It has small radiator leak. If you are standing in front of the car and look below the fan on the left side of the radiator you can see a small amount of red fluid that has leaked out of the radiator. However, the leak isn't big enough that I ever have to add coolant I just top it off when I get the oil changed. Also it doesn't puddle on the pavement when parked.
The only thing I really notice is that my windows tend fog abit easier now so I assuming the moisture must be making its way into the ventalation somehow. My mechanic said its about a $700 repair. My question should I fix it and is $700 reasonable. Also I've never had the timing belt replaced would it make since do have this done at the same time as the radiator. How long will it take before it becomes a major problem instead of a minor annoyance?
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2103 GS 350 F-SPORT ... I've only had my car for a month but I just noticed there is a small space between my rear wheels and the rotor hat. My front is not like this. I don't have an opportunity to take the wheels off and look.
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I have a 2004 Camry that I purchased used 8/2006 with 20,400 miles on it. It now has 83,000 miles on it. I’ve changed the oil and filter every 3,000 miles, and I’ve never had to add oil between changes. I’ve also replaced the antifreeze on time, using 5 yr/150,000 mile antifreeze. The only time I’ve had to add antifreeze was 4/23/13, to top off the overflow reservoir. Saturday I did my annual tune-up (plugs, air filter and fuel injector cleaner added to the gas). Plugs looked normal. Last week the car sat for several days, no issue on start-up.
Yesterday afternoon I started the car after it sat for two days. A huge amount of white smoke came out of the exhaust. It ran fine. I mentioned this to my wife, she said that about two weeks ago she saw a lot of black smoke (she thinks black) when she started the car and that it ran rough for about the first 4 miles and then started running ok. It has the 2AZFE engine, and I’ve read a TSB (TSB 1507) “It has been reported that stripped head bolt threads have been found on some of these engines during tear down. When the two rear head bolts lose their clamping ability they allow coolant to seep out at the rear of the cylinder head.” Could that be the problem?
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My R is weeping a small amount of transmission fluid from where the front right axle mates up with the transmission. It's not a lot. If I leave my car parked for a few days I've only got a few drops on the garage floor.
I've talked to a few buddies and they've said everything from "you drive your car too hard and blew out a seal" (which I don't) to "well you don't drive your car for 5 months of the year, so the seal just dried up" (which could be true). I had VW check it out a few weeks ago, but like an idiot I cleaned it up before I brought it in, thinking that it would be weeping by the time I got there. No such luck however; so they checked the level of the fluid, declared it good, and told me to come back when/if it started again. Car drives fine, and there's no notchyness in the shift feel or anything like that.
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I have a 2008 Ranger sport. When set on max a/c can only feel a small amount of air coming out of the vents. Compressor gets cold an condensates. Would this be a problem with the actuator not opening the damper all the way?
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I have a 2007 F350 with 140,000 miles. I just received my first oil analysis from Blackstone and it shows a small amount of coolant in the oil (296ppm Potassium, 30ppm Sodium). Iron at 47ppm and Lead at 12ppm are elevated as well. This is at the end of a 5000 mile oil change.
I have no oil analysis history to say if this has been occurring for any length of time, and have no runnability issues. Oil/coolant temp delta is 8-10F unless towing, and I have seen no coolant loss since replacing the degas bottle a couple of months ago.
Where to look first. It seems most oil/coolant encounters result in the oil going into the coolant, not the other way around. I haven't done an analysis, but have not seen any oil residue in the degas bottle.
BTW, no coolant shows up on the dipstick either, so it is a small leak at best.
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I purchased this vehicle this week.69k miles..driving 25 miles to my home the temp. control beeped...near my home...my son added near 1 gal of anti freeze....that night there seemed to be a small amount of leakage under the radiator (but none since that date 11/24/14 or 2 + days ago ).. the coolant level in the radiator appeared down 1 inch on one check. On the last check after running and then off...the radiator level was up to the top and the reservoir level was at 1 inch. My son thought there might be a fine/mist spraying in the area near the left lower side of the radiator..since that time with the motor running I placed a piece of file folder down near where he thought there was a mist and saw none on the folder... this car was owed my an elderly person and likely was not driven often of late.
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Problems with the windscreen fluid sprayer on my Mercury sable 2001. One nozzle works properly, but only a small amount of liquid "dribbles" out of the left nozzle. I could remove the material from the hood that covers the hose system and probably repair the situation. However, that is much work and replacing the material onto the underside of the hood may be difficult. Is there a simple solution for this problem?
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I installed a 55w 8000K HID kit on my GX470, but the amount of light coming out isn't sufficient, compared to another car i installed exactly the same kit on. I get a really nice, bright light that spreads a good distance with my other car and on the Lexus, i get dim light with some greenish tint (should be blue as it is 8000K) that doesn't light a lot of the road ahead of me. What can i do to improve the amount of light and the distance it shines?
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I'm in the process of changing pads and rotors on all 4 wheels. I've done all brakes and rotors, except that I'm stuck on the driver rear. The driver rear rotor won't come off!
Here's what I've done so far: I've used the metric jack bolts (I didn't buy the long ones) and that freed up some rust, with pb blaster. Now, the rotor comes out a bit, and I'm able to move it around, and the rotor comes forward a little bit towards me. It's so wobblily that it seems like it is about to come out. The rotor isn't solid stuck on, like most threads I've read.
While hammering, I think a piece of hardware of the parking brake fell down on the ground. Do u think that the parking brake is not allowing the rotor to come off? If so, I was reading online that there is some way to release the parking brake via a hole though the rotor, but I'm really not familiar with this. I'm not even sure if it's the parking brake that's not allowing the rotor to come off.
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I have 93 Explorer 4.0 that seems to be blowing a massive amount of smoke out the tailpipe. This smoke is not an oil burning smoke, its a coolant smoke I am pretty sure (smells very sweet like antifreeze). So after reading about common problems on the frist gen 4.0 I thought the issue may be a lower intake manifold leak caused by loose bolts. So I tightened them down and sure enough, problem solved, I thought. About 4 days goes by and BAM the problem is back. My questions is
Can the lower intake manifold gasket cause the white smoke issue? This rig is also not running so great either. Rough idle, and surging, also seems to have a dead spot in the RPM range at about 3K. Oil looks and smells fine and no signs point to a head gasket other then the smoke? I swear the problem with the white smoke went away for a few days after tightening down the lower intake manifold bolts but its back again. What does everyone thing?
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I've owned this vehicle since new and never overheated or had any major mechanical issues. It just hit 130,000 miles and recently completed a 1500 mile uneventful road trip running great.
The other day I noticed an excessive amount of steam/smoke coming from the exhaust while sitting at a stop light after recently starting the vehicle. Once the van was up to temperature the exhaust steam/smoke cleared up.
I checked the radiator level and found it was about a qt low, and did not seem to have any exhaust bubbling or fumes in the radiator.
Then, I pulled the dipstick and the freshly changed oil looked a bit cloudy (I got really nervous), I really can't say its milky colored because I can still see though the oil and see the cross hatches on the stick. But it doesn't look like new oil.
The engine seems to be running fine, no loss of power or missing. Starts and idles fine.
Talked with a mechanic friend and he immediately said blown head gasket or intake manifold was allowing water from one of the four corners where the gasket seals the water jacket, into a cylinder.
Since that first episode of excessive steam/smoke it hasn't reproduced the problem to that degree. It does start to steam out the exhaust after about 5 minutes of starting cold, but seems to dissipate after the engine warms.
The amount of smoke / steam in that first episode, I couldn't see the car behind me in the mirror ... I looked like a mosquito fogger.
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I am writing about a 2007 Chevrolet Suburban and for the last few months, have noticed that the car is losing oil. I have to put in a quart of oil about every 3 weeks. I have brought it in to the mechanics and asked them to look for a leak and they can't find anything. They have changed the oil, replaced the evap hose, but the car is still losing oil. Just did a lot of driving this last weekend and the oil went all the way down, to the point of when I started it this morning, I got a huge amount of blue smoke out the back. When I took off the cap to add oil, I noticed this mustard yellow, foamy stuff on the lid. Never saw that before.
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My daughter has a 1993 Honda Civic, which was running perfectly until yesterday. Until she mistakenly filled the engine with too much oil. She then drove it until a large amount of white smoke started belching from her tailpipe. All seals and gasket seem to be intact. I drained the oil and fill it to proper levels, but still have a large amount of smoke coming out of the pipe. I check the radiator to ensure that no oil/water mixture, but it was a huge cloud of smoke.....is this the end for this car or is there still hope.
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2007 F550 with the 6.0. About 2 months ago I replaced the EGR cooler with a Bulletproof cooler. Truck ran well for a few weeks. Then I started getting the "turbo fart". I stopped using the truck until I had an issue with another truck. I was stuck so I sent the 07 out without cleaning the turbo. This morning a decent amount of white smoke started coming out of the exhaust. The smoke would sometimes get a bit gray. Going up hill it didn't have much power at all.
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Replace the front bumber cover on gx? Mine has a crack and I can get another one but wasn't sure how difficult it would be to swap it out, I guess the toughest part would seem to be the fog lights.
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I am getting ready to install DVD headrest players in my RX400h. I am stumped on how to remove the read shield of the seat if that makes sence? I believe the are held in by clamps from middle to top but not sure what needs done at the bottome. And I can also feel two straps at the bottom.
How to remove the back so I can run the wires down the seat from the headrests? Pictures? Diagrams?
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So I recently purchased a used Megan Racing 2.5" downpipe off a fellow Vortexer. Today I installed the downpipe and straight race pipe. After installing, my brother and I noticed a grayish smoke coming from the engine bay. Further looking revealed the smoke seems to be coming from the flex pipe mesh on the downpipe. What could be causing this??
Downpipe does not have a lot of mileage. No leaks. Brand new VW gasket was installed between the turbo and downpipe. Smell of smoke does not seem to be oil burning - seems more like a metal/gasket burning smell. Grayish color from what we could tell at night. Turbo still spools. No lights on dash.
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So i noticed some red fluid on the garage floor where the gx parks. I narrowed it down to radiator fluid. Lower side drivers side radiator has some of this red in the corner. I don't see anything else leaking and the red drops are small. Is there something on that side that might be causing this besides radiator? A line that i cant see or noticed yet?
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