Lexus GX 2004-09 :: Right Rear Sensor Malfunctioning
Sep 6, 2012
Well, I am approaching 80k miles and the ride in my 04 GX470 had gotten very bouncy. So I had a mechanic friend run a diagnostic check and the right rear sensor was malfunctioning. My friend recommended to replace both rear sensors but my wife is "frugal" so we only replaced the malfunctioning unit. Well a month or two later we are back to the bumpy ride. I haven't had my friend check it out yet but I'm guessing either the other sensor or both are malfunctioning now. Now I don't want to get into a fix part "a" of suspension and part "b" malfunctions soon after.
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My daughter has a Toyota Camry which is a great car. She is having problems with it surging lately and reading the code it said the O2 sensor was malfunctioning. We replaced it and it is running better but now it's surging around 1.000 rpm, the car is bucking and being a pain. Having a GM with the same problem I changed out the throttle position sensor and it worked a bit but it's still doing it.
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The "door open" light is stuck on and the truck thinks one of them is open. I went around and slammed all the doors and it went off. Didn't think anything of it till we went on a road trip and now its stuck on. No door slamming is working. How to unstick the sensor wherever it is?
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I was given a Taurus wagon a 2000, Taurus wagon and it has some electrical problems.
The rear hatch is a mess, the center tail light left, right hatch brake lights and backup lights, and automatic lock all seem to be out.
I pulled the two panels off the pillars and the first connection inside the car look nice and connected. inside the hatch it appears as if all wires are connected.
is there a central point where all of these lights and locks meet that can be disconnected.
Everything else in the car seems to work.
oops forgot rear speakers are not working either.
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Well I noticed the drivers door actuator wasn't working. I went to the Lexus dealer and service rep told me 700 bucks to fix. A month later i went to fix my cat converter under warranty. After i got the car back, surprisingly the keyless door works again. Well a week later it stops working again
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Driving home tonight...noticed SOC was PINK...2 to 1 bars. First thought was the HV FAN...!
I JUST did the HV fan maintenance the other day and I'm certain I buttoned everything back up correctly..... There are only 2 connections to the fan that I unhooked and then rehooked back up...... I'll re-open tomorrow to check for loose connections.
Is this symptomatic of the fan not working? and Is there any way I can test the fan?
I've driven the car for about 200 miles in the 4 days since the maintenance but I rarely keep eye on SOC so I'm not certain what it's been reporting thru that period...Just looked tonight for some reason. Maintenance light has been on for awhile before I performed this ....but I'm guessing that's just Oil change needing to be done.
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I have a 2008 LS. The buzzer for my front parking assist sensors is significantly louder than when the buzzer sounds for the rear sensors. I have adjusted the buzzer volume to the loudest position (#5), but the volume of the buzzer when the rear sensors activate is still much lower than for the front sensors.
The indicators on the nav screen for all the sensors are working properly. Do you find the volume is different between the front and rear sensors or do I have a problem?
I am asking because I inadvertently backed out of a driveway into a car that was parked directly across the street. I do not recall hearing the sensor sound before I hit the other car. At the time, my sensor volume was set on #3. When I checked, I could barely hear the buzzer from the rear sensors, but could clearly hear the buzzer from the front sensors. Resetting the buzzer volume to #5 has worked a bit, but I still wish the buzzer for the rear was louder.
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I have a 2004 Mazda 3s with 210k miles. Both the remote key's just stopped working. The dealership tried replaced batteries and tried reprogramming the key's but said that the computer is not accepting the keys (these are original keys). They suggested replacing the computer but in my opinion the car is not worth that much ...
I tested the remotes at autozone and they seem to transmit rf signals. The door locks or control modules work fine - the problem appears to be the remotes or the communication between ecu & remotes.
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So when it rains sometimes my ABS will go off till I drive it down the road a bit... Where is the location of the ground wire for this thing? I've checked up under it and no wires are cut or burnt... just wonder where this thing grounds to... if I can find that I may be able to clean it and fix the sensor.... because something makes me believe the sensor isn't bad, because some times it works for a half mile or so... before it goes back on.
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I'm having some electrical issues with my 04 jetta and have no idea what is wrong. This came up recently after changing the solenoids in my 09A tranny (side note: tranny works now ).
[URL] .....
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I have an ABS light on. I have crawled under the truck I don't know how many times everything is connected just as it should be. The wires did have to taped up because they burnt into after getting against the exhaust at some point, but I had fixed that awhile ago, I've even tore back into the tape and re-did everything again, nothing gets rid of the ABS light. When this first happened it would go away after I turned the truck off, but would come back after using the brakes a few times, especially harder stops. Then it got to where it just came on and stayed on, and didn't go out no matter what. Thinking my ABS speed sensor went, I bought a brand new motorcraft one from rock auto it fits perfectly in the rear, plug looks good. I can't find NOTHING that would keep this light on. The code is always the same "Rear ABS Center Speed Sensor Input Malfunction", how to get rid of this?
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2006 Prius, 114K miles. In the last week started getting the intermittent warning of "There is a problem with the parking transmission lock. Place the car on a flat surface and fully set the parking brake." Car would not start, would only go into neutral. All accessories work fine, seems to be plenty of 12V power. Did a lot of research and determined that the most likely cause was a failing 12V battery. Used the diagnostic mode to check voltages, had 12.1 at "READY", 11.6 under auxiliary loads, and 14.1 with engine on (I did get the car to start eventually but can't figure out how and under what set of circumstances it would start).
So I ordered a 12V battery and replaced it. After replacing, I still had the Hybrid warning light, but after stopping and starting the car 3 times it went away. Car worked fine for a day but now the intermittent warning has returned. With the warning on, the parking lock seems to be fully engaged (car won't roll even on a slope).
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We've got a 2005 with 110K miles on it and recently the Combo Meter malf'd -- in the space of a couple days, the car didn't want to shut off twice, and once at start-up the instrument panel didn't light up. Since then it has run just fine. Took it to the dealer and they want to replace the combo meter. We never got the "Warranty Enhancement" notice (which has, of course, expired).
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I was out of town for about a week. I drive a 2008 Prius with about 35k miles and no previous issues. I get back tonight and go to open the door with keyless entry. Nothing, doors wont open. I hadn't replaced the batteries in the remote since I bought it, so I figured it was just that. I use the key to manually open the doors. I then go to start the car. Nothing. No lights, no noises, literally nothing happens. I figure, perhaps I left a light on while I was away and the 12V battery is drained. It is quite the rare thing, but it has happened a few times in the past. Usually I would catch it the next day and be ok, so maybe a light was on for a week and that did it.
So at this point I assume it's just a dead 12 V battery. I ask my friend to give me a jump. We open the hood, connect up the jumper cables in this order : + Prius, + and - to his battery, then - to the Prius frame. Quite a few sparks fly, which seemed like more than what I was used to seeing, but it doesn't seem too outrageous. I try to start the car and nothing happens. My friend then tells me he accidentally hooked up the jumper cables backwards. (I know now this is bad, and may be the source of the problem but hear the rest of the story to get a complete picture of what's going on).
So we swap them on his battery and try again. I put my foot on the break and push the power button. His car is still running in the background. The power button LED then turns green, and that is it. No noise or anything else. I then (while keeping my foot on the break still), push the power button again. This time the power button LED turns orange, the parking break P LED turns on green and the check engine light on the dash turns on. Also I think the car also makes the normal humming sound we are used to hearing when it turns on. No other lights are on at this point. The main display doesn't come on, nor does the interior lights work, or anything else for that matter.
The only thing functioning from inside are those 3 lights. I turn the car off and we just figure it needs more time to charge. So we give it a few more minutes of charging and still the same thing. We notice a strange thing. We hear a clicking sound coming from the fuse box area of the car. Every 5 seconds or so, it sounds like a relay clicks, and then clicks off after 2 seconds or so, and this continues on. My friends engine sounds as if during those two seconds like it is sending current to my car (lower engine rpm). So it sounds as if the relay sends current somewhere for a few seconds and then no current goes to my car, 5 seconds later it sends current to my car then 2 seconds later no current, etc. This goes on continuously and we are not sure why.
We figure maybe a fuse is blown. My friend checks the fuses we think to check but can't seems to find anything wrong there. We then think maybe the power needs to be disconnected to the electronics to allow capacitors and what not to discharge. So we disconnect the lug from the jumping terminal (the one we connected the + jumper cable under the hood) for about 10 minutes. We reconnect the lug back 10 minutes later and try again. Same things with the lights and buttons pushing as before. The only difference this time is you can get these lights to turn on without having the jumper cables connected (as if some of the battery was charged).
Next we figure, maybe we just need to hook directly to the 12V battery in the "trunk". So we connect to that. Now, instead of having the relay tripping every few seconds we don't hear the relay tripping at all. And the engine rmps are operating constantly as if it is consistently drawing current (constantly lower rmp sounds). So that is different this time than when we connected to the post under the hood. So we continue running the car at high rmps for a few minutes and try again. Still the exact same thing with the lights.
Also during these tests the break pedal seems to put pressure on itself when you hit the power button a second time and the lights turn on. (This is just a detail to include, I'm not sure if there is anything useful to gain from knowing this). Anyway, I know the problem is most likely that everything was fine until my friend accidentally hooked his end of the jumper cables to his battery. But in the event that there is something else I should check.
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I have a 2006 RX330 AWD. I took it to get inspected and was told I had a bad O2 Sensor.
Are they easy to replace? What should the average cost be? I was also looking for the part number. I was told that "Bank 2 Sensor 1" failed. I was looking for the part but I am not sure I found the correct part.
I was also told that the front inner and outer Tie Rod needs replaced along with both rear wheel bearings. I found the parts for the tie rod but not sure about the rear wheel bearings. Wondering if i need to get just the wheel bearing or if i need the wheel bearing and hub assembly also.
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I have been having sporadic issues with the button/system of my drivers side window. It is an '06 XLT SCrew. The window always reponds when I am lowering, but there are times when I hit the button and it won't come up. I wiggle the armrest, or fiddle with the button and it will eventually work. I haven't been to a dealer yet, but I know this will totally fail at the most inconvenient moment. The other three windows work great.
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I have an 04 gx with a check engine light on I had the code read at auto zone. That tells me o2 sensor bank 2 sensor 1. I have already changed the sensor they said it was and still have the code. What is the correct location of this sensor?
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Got the p0051 error code and its calling for a o2 sensor. What brand does lexus use? I rather get one on line but dealer quality.
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I'm slowly going through my (new to me) GX470 that I bought about a month ago. I live in the big mountains and many people would say that the road I live on is a 4x4 trail, although I'm often on real 4x4 trails. On an outing today I noticed that with the air bags raised there is a loud banging sound when I go over any significant bumps. I would tick the switch to lower the air bags while going over bumps and the sound would instantly stop.
Based on that info, I presumed that I had a problem with the height sensors, causing them to max out the suspension travel. So I looked underneath and sure enough I have a cracked bracket on the driver's side sensor. So basically the cracked bracket bends as the suspension is going up until the suspension travel is maxed out.
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I noticed my 2005 GX470 started to "bottom out" when going over speed bumps or potholes. The air suspension seems to work fine raising and lowering ok and the general ride is still quite smooth. From some simple searches on the board it would seem that leaking of the air suspension could be the problem?
I did a code read and got the following error codes none of which sem related to the problem.
Code
CO200 Right front speed sensor malfunction
C1223 Malfunction in ABS control system
C1340 Open circuit in central differential lock signal
C2172 tire pressure, transmitter identification number not registered
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My auto windshield wiper function has become real sensitive...When driving in the lightest rain or even mist, my wipers start intermittently, then go faster and faster until they are going steadily, and in medium-light rain, often go to high speed. They never did this in the past, this has recently started. I turn them off, then back on and the process repeats. The auto wiper was always wonderful in the past, but not now.
Is there some kind of adjustment for this problem? Is my windshield sensor going bad?
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