Lexus GX 2004-09 :: Repeated And Regular Noise Coming
Mar 11, 2016
This noise appeared for an hour, haunted us with regular appearances, then disappeared as soon as I drove the car to my trusted mechanic. I never heard the sound over the 6 years we've owned the vehicle and it hasn't come back. This sound was regular and repeated while driving, breaking, stopped in gear and even parked and idling. No vibrations or abnormal operation of the vehicle. Sounded like it was coming from somewhere right in front of the driver. Mechanic was stumped-something in the ABS system. Noise coming from under hood right in front of driver-2.wav.
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A couple days ago the engine wouldn't start. I thought it was a dead battery (installed 5 months ago), so I brought a mechanic with a new battery. While the mechanic was working on replacing the battery, I heard some discrete noise coming out from under the hood and windshield area (driver's side). I didn't pay much attention.
Now, when I switch off the car, I can hear the noise (it's like the door's closer sound but with higher interval and it comes out about every 30 seconds). When I'm at complete stop, I hear the noise with the rpm dropping a tiny bit until the noise fades away when the rpm gets back to the normal level. The episode is repeated every 30 seconds or so. Today I felt the battery started to drain (it took longer to start the car).
LS460, '08, VSR fix done 1 year & 30K miles ago. No other problems or symptoms.
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After searching for the Prius that I wanted, I settled on a 2008 Prius Touring with 171xxx miles. The car was at a sales lot 300 miles away. After a few phone calls pertaining to the Prius, I arranged to meet the lot owner roughly 1/2 way in between for the purchase. We met. Owner said that several dash lights came on as they were driving to meet me. (Yes, I believe him.) He talked with his mechanic, and was told that the problem was most likely the ABS control module (p/n 44510-47050). Owner agreed to shipping me a good used ABS module and discounted the vehicle a bit. I drove it home.
The brake, (!), ABS, and VSC lights are "on"when the car is in the "ready" mode. The parking brake is not on. When I walk up to the car (with SKS fob in my pocket) and open the door, I hear a noise that sounds like water running through an outside faucet that's only partially opened. For identification purpose, I will refer to this noise as a "hissing" noise. When in "ready" mode , the ABS system "cycles", with about 4 seconds hissing, then about 10 seconds not hissing, repeated over and over.
In ready mode (under the hood), the inverter pump is humming away just fine, and the coolant can be seen flowing in it's reservoir. My biggest question is that I have read about others with the unwanted dash lights, but not any with this hissing noise. Does the ABS module replacement sound like it will most likely cure the problem?
And btw, after disconnecting both batteries and waiting for the proper time period, is it really necessary to use the insulated gloves? Years ago, I used Toyota repair manuals, and after receiving the Haynes manual, I'm a bit disappointed.
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Last Thursday I was coming home from work and the first time I came to a stop the R32 began to buck just as I gave it a little gas. Tried stopping and starting it but it continued to do it the rest of the trip home. Fast forward to this morning (first time we've driven it since) and it completely stalled on my wife on her way to work. She managed to get it started and get it home. I drove it around the block and sure enough when it comes to a stop after moving it stalls. I was able to consistently get it to stall just by getting it moving and then coming to a stop. I scanned it for codes last night and got a couple of different codes. Ignore the photo-sensor one - I am fixing that just need to find what I did with it.
Note the address 17 stuff - 2 codes to do with failure of the fuel sending unit. Could this possibly cause the car to stall out?
Also, address 16 (steering wheel) - RossTech seems to think these codes mean a faulty ignition switch.
I've never done data logging before but I was able to capture one of the stalls with VCDS. What columns would be useful to see and troubleshoot?
Here's the link to the log
01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000
02-Auto Trans -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] ....
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I have a ticking noise that sounds like it is coming from my glove box when the A/C or Heater is on. I think its the servo motor but not sure. I think it just started. How difficult this would be to fix?
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About 2 months ago,we noticed a slight noise when first starting the truck in the mornings.The noise was so faint,I could never tell where it was coming from.The noise went away when vehicle warmed. This morning,I drove it for the first time in a while,and its pretty loud now. Its definitely coming from the front of the motor somewhere.I am thinking it sounds like bearings starting to go bad.When looking at the fan spinning from the side of the truck,it does not spin true,there is a very slight wobble. With the motor off and grabbing the fan in the middle,with force,I can very slightly wiggle it back and forth. I should NOT be able to do that,correct?
By the way,truck has 142,000 miles on it and the water pump and timing chain were changed at 117,000 miles.
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My 2006 AWD RX330 rotors were starting to get warped so I changed them out along with new pads. I put new rotors in the front and new pads all around. Everything went smoothly other than getting the bottom rear slider pins to go back in easily.
Well it's been a week now and I noticed that if I press on the brakes at low speeds say 20-30 mph with a decent amount of pressure nothing too crazy there is a rubbing/pulsing noise right before i stop completely. It doesn't happen right when I apply the brake but right before the stop. It kind of sounds like the ABS is kicking in but i don't feel it in the pedal like you do for ABS or I don't hear the electrical noise you hear from ABS.
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I've read about transmission shift problems between certain gears with these cars but don't know if my symptom applies. 2004, AWD with 35k miles, however mostly short stop and go driving.
When applying the brakes to come to a complete stop, there's kind of a abrupt downshift that I can even feel in the brake pedal. The car even has a last second little shake and a bit of a clunk..
Difficult to describe, so here's a short YouTube video as well. (you may have to turn up the vol to hear it)
Definitely not the transmission. Pulling the ABS/VSC/TC fuse , the car brakes normally. Skid control affects turning in curves and TC affects acceleration. So, it's ABS related..
Lexus 2004 RX330 transmission downshift when stopping - YouTube .....
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I made my first round trip from Vegas to LA over the weekend in our 06 GX470and had to endure this obnoxious wind noise that seems to be coming from both driver and passenger windows. Is this normal for a Lexus SUV? I normally drive my LS460L which is dead silent so I'm not sure if I'm just spoiled. I used to have a big SUV (Armada) but never noticed the wind noise because of the engine and road noise.
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I have a grinding type noise coming from underneath. Not there all the time..heard it last night while driving home....pulled over and waited for a while looked underneath could not see anything. Started off again heard it momentarily then it stopped....but I am thinking that this could be axle/wheel related/ball joint? No engine issue coming from the chassis underneath, possible bearing?
I have a 2003 Gx with 245K on it....but overall runs great!
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Lexus 3.3L RX-330 Engine Noise - Part 3 - YouTube
I am concerned with an engine noise.
5 months ago we bought a 2005 Lexus RX-330. It had 109k miles on it (now has 113k). There is a faint but noticeable engine tap/ knock/ tick coming from the engine. I think it has the 3.3l, 3gr-fe engine.
I have listed some observations:
The sound does not occur on startup, when the car is completely cold.
The sound starts after 5-10 minutes of driving or idling.
The sound diminishes and is almost imperceptible after another 10 minutes of driving.
The sound is only noticeable at idle.
The sound/tap seems to occur about 5 times a second at 600 rpm (idle)
The sound increases frequency with rising of rpm.
At approximately 2k rpm the sound cannot be heard.
If the vehicle is stopped after driving, allowed to sit for 5-10 minutes and then restarted, the sound will be loudest even though the engine is still hot.
The engine is quiet overall with exception of this sound. The fuel injector sound is the next loudest sound.
The sound doesn't seem to have gotten louder in the last 5 months but it may have gotten just slightly louder by my estimation.
I can hear the sound inside the vehicle and outside as well.
No other symptoms are present. I had the timing belt, water pump, idler and tensioner replaced as maintenance and as a possible solution to this problem right after buying the vehicle.
The mechanic heard the sound but told me he wasn't sure of the cause. He and I agree that it sounds like an internal engine noise. It is not a pulley, idler or exhaust sound. The mechanic told me not to worry about it and it was a normal sound. He also said to start troubleshooting would get expensive. I am still concerned.
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I have a 2004 GX470; bought it new. The last few months I have been hearing a strange noise from the driver's side; seems to be coming from under the floorboard and can sometimes feel a vibration in the brake pedal. The noise is similar to a cat meowing. Have a son who is a GM tech; he said it sounds more electrical than mechanical. It happens mostly when I drive it cold. Seems to also happen more when turning/braking. I had the main belt replaced this summer. Should I have the tension pully replaced?
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Okay so this is strange. There is a metal grinding/dragging noise coming from the rear passenger side of the car. I have a '05 GX470 with air suspension. On the first look I don't appear to be dragging anything and everything looks good with the brakes. I also noticed the noise persists after stopping sometimes but when I shift to neutral it disappears. So here is my list of suspects:
- Eroded muffler (there was an exhaust leak)
- Air suspension because I don't know anything about it
- Differentials
- Transmission
Anything else I missed?
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I have a problem with my gauges. Sometimes my RPM gauge works, and sometimes it doesn't.
When I approach the car and open the door, I hear a weird noise coming from the gauge cluster (or a nearby area). When I start the car, none of my gauges work, and you can see the temperature, speed, and fuel gauges flickering. After about 10 or 15 seconds all gauges fire up, except for the RPM gauge.
The flickering does not always occur, but my RPM gauge is dead most of the time. It works once in a while in the morning when I start the car, but once I shut down the car and start it again, I loose my RPM gauge the rest of the day.
I think the noise I hear behind the cluster or inside the steering wheel area has something to do with this problem because the cluster problem arouse when I started hearing the noise.
I managed to put the problem on video, and you may see it here. If you focus your attention on the fuel and temperature gauges right after I start the car, you will see the flickering. You will then see the needles jump to their correct readings about 15 seconds after the car starts, but as you can see the RPM gauge is dead.
YouTube : [URL] .....
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So from reading around a lot, it seems like the chirping is from the belt tensioner or idler pulley. That said, I've not been able to find anything definitive. I tried to do the water bottle squirt test (from Gates' youtube video) and either I did it wrong or the chirp did not go away implying the issue is not the belt. While I was looking in, I could see the tensioner shaking some.
If my tensioner should not be moving, do I just need the pulley or the pulley and the mount?
- Pulley [URL] ....
- Pulley and mount [URL] ....
Also, if the above items will fix the chirp, which brand would be best?
2007 RX 350, 113K.
Chirping gets worse as it heats up. Seems to happen independent of ambient temperature. Purchased a year ago so unsure of the history of part changes.
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The dealer has replaced the DMTL pump 4 times on my 2004 BMW325. The last time the dealer checked the gas cap and smoke tested the fuel system - all OK. I do not overfill the tank. The pump has failed again and I am getting tired of taking it to the dealer for a new pump. Fortunately it is under warranty but I am sure that there is something else causing these pump failures.
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2008 GX 470 ... Experience noise that sounds to be coming from the back hatch/toolbox area when going over harsh bumps? If so is there a known fix for this? I was thinking of adding weather stripping in a couple of strategic locations.
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We are in need of a 4th clutch for our 2004 Elantra. This is a despicable record for Hyundai.
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I was told by the salesman this can use regular gas. Opinions?
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A couple months ago, my car suddenly got the red triangle. The dealership said that I needed a new battery, and eventually a new water pump. I couldn't afford $4500 as I bought the car just 9 months earlier and am making payments on the car.
I found a guy that was to "recondition" the battery, which set me back about $1200+. After getting it back, the car has been making a rattle sound in the engine bay when under acceleration (it sounds like a loose screw, but I don't know).
After about a month, I got the red triangle again. The car's performance deteriorates, the state of charge fluctuates a lot more. One minute it is green then literally a minute later it is purple then green again. The guy that reconditioned my hv battery said all the cells are good but for some reason became unbalanced, so he put it on the grid charger and rebalanced it (I believe it was on there for about 24 hours).
2-3 weeks later, it happens again. Same thing, the guy says it is unbalanced again and stuck it on the grid charger (because of time constraints, it was only on the grid for about 5 hours).
Then again 2 weeks later it repeats itself. A couple days before it happened, I tried out the elm327 adapter, custom pids, and torque app. Before the triangle came on, the delta state of charge got to about 0.9% and was charging up to just about 90% and down to just below 39%. Same thing though, from high to low in a matter of less than a minute. Same code P0A80. Sitting on the driveway, all 14 modules would be consistently within .2 volts. But when the car started acting up, I saw a voltage difference of about 3 volts between highest and lowest modules. The repair guy said the same thing again. The cells are good but got unbalanced again. This time he recommended for me to leave the car for the weekend so it can sit on the grid charger for a minimum of 24 hours, which I did. I picked it up yesterday and it's driving fine right now.
He is also recommending that I buy a grid charger and charge the battery every couple weeks to avoid these problems. I mean, how do I know if he actually reconditioned the battery, or has just been resetting the fault code and grid charging the battery? Btw, I did the auxiliary battery test and it was perfect. I don't know when the battery was last replaced but I believe with how strong it is, that is was done sometime recently before purchasing the car late last year.
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Got this 04 Escape 3.0 FWD for my son's first car. It was his mom's and she drove it for years and parked it when she got another car.
I charged the battery and it is holding a good charge. Car would crank but not start. Fuel pump was not coming on. I pulled it out and applied 12V to the connector terminal and it started running so I put it back in and it worked fine.
Drove it home and cleaned it up, pulled out the bad window regulator, put it in the driveway till the next weekend.
After it sat for 3 days it would not start again. The fuel pump was not coming on. I assumed that the old pump that I revived had died again so I bought a new one and put it in and it ran fine.
Went for inspection but OBD2 was NOT READY so I drove it about 60 miles until it threw 3 codes. P0136, P2270, P2271 (O2 sensor problem).
I parked it again to wait till my next chance to work on it. 3 days later I was going to replace the O2 sensor but when I tried to start it the new fuel pump was not coming on again. (2nd fuel pump to die while sitting in the driveway).
So I figured the new fuel pump was a dud maybe, so I returned it and got another new one and put it in and it worked fine again. So I replaced the O2 sensor. Didn't have time to drive it 60 miles again to READY the OBD2 system for inspection so I parked it for a couple more days.
2 days later I was going to drive it around to make the OBD2 READY for inspection and again the fuel pump does not come on.
3 dead fuel pumps doesn't make sense to me so I have been considering it could be the Fuel Pump Driver Module but have read that's not an issue on the Escape like it is on the trucks. Plus I have been unable to locate where it is on this vehicle.
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